Whats the best $400 chainsaw.

   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw. #31  
For his use homeowner is all he needs if taken care of properly, never put away for more than a week or two with fuel in for starters.

I have an MS310 which is homeowner grade, bought it a year or two after they first came out. It has eaten several hundred (yes I am not exaggerating) of cords over the past years and is still one of my go-to saws for the smaller logs. Down a bit on compression now causing some starting problems but that is all. One does notneed to buy a cadillac to get to town. All pro-grade gets you is somewhat longer life. For his use he will never put enough hous in one to wear out a homeowner.


I do see your point. The question, however wasn't "what chainsaw should i buy to cut down 12 trees?". It was "what's the best $400 chainsaw?". The ms250 is NOT the best $400 chainsaw. Will it do the job? Yes. Will it last for years? Probably.

For $400 you can buy an echo cs590 from home depot. Open up the muffler, trim the carb limiters, retune, and you have twice the saw the ms250 is. Or, go buy the Dolmar 421. Same size as the ms250.

Yes a cheap stihl will do the job, but c'mon: for $300 you can get a stihl homeowner saw or a Dolmar professional saw. When the Dolmar breaks, it can be repaired. When an ms250 breaks, it's probably time for a new saw.

Pro grade saws get you more than a longer life. They have better power for how much they weigh. They are more durable, they are more easily repaired, they are more pleasurable to use, and usually have lower vibrations.
 
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw.
  • Thread Starter
#32  
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw. #33  
As others have mentioned, a good, used Stihl MS361 or 362 is in the price range you're looking for. If taken care of, probably could run it a few years and get all your money back if needed.
 
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw. #34  
You'll spend more money that way, unless you do VERY little cutting.

Well, the OP said he's going to do very little cutting. I heat our house with wood. I try to cut locust exclusively (extremely hard to cut for this little saw), but end up with about 10% sassafras and cherry due to clearing and windfalls. I cut about 6 cords per year for that from about 50 telephone pole sized trees per year, plus the occasional assistance with the school/church/friend that needs a tree cut up/down. I'm still on my first Poulan that I bought almost exactly 9 years ago on sale, so I've got $100 in that. I'm on my third bar (damaged one in a pinch). Both bars came with chains at about $20 each, so that's another $40. I bought 2 more chains in a two-pack for less than $20. And I have a couple other chains from my dad's old Craftsman. So, about 8 chains, 6 still working. And $29 for the harbor freight sharpener. The saw is still on its original clutch and drive sprocket. Only problem ever has been the fuel line rotted from ethanol (so they tell me).

So, to summarize....

- $100 for saw with case.
- $60 for two bars and 4 chains.
- $29 for chain sharpener.

About $200 for 9 years. At least 36 cords of wood from about 300 telephone pole sized trees. And several dozen "normal" trees (maples, oaks, cherry, etc...) for friends, church, school, etc... If this one ever craps out, I'll buy another and keep using the parts/chains left over from the first. I can't justify spending $400 on a saw for what I do. I just can't. :laughing:
 
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw. #35  
Your cheap moss! You be spending more money in the end when the junk saw break! Save time and put up some money and get a good saw the first time.

Personally, with all the stories told on here about problems with 2 stroke powered lawn equipment, fuel problems, and being around people that have been messing up 2 stroke engines since they got their first Lawn Boy mowers, constantly adjusting their carbs, etc... and the opposite experiences that I have had with such equipment.... I'll stay the cheap route. It works just fine. :laughing:
 
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw.
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Personally, with all the stories told on here about problems with 2 stroke powered lawn equipment, fuel problems, and being around people that have been messing up 2 stroke engines since they got their first Lawn Boy mowers, constantly adjusting their carbs, etc... and the opposite experiences that I have had with such equipment.... I'll stay the cheap route. It works just fine. :laughing:
If you ever got your hands on a pro saw you'd toss those $99 saws. Almost like comparing a cheap shovel to an expensive powertrac.
 
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw. #38  
If you ever got your hands on a pro saw you'd toss those $99 saws. Almost like comparing a cheap shovel to an expensive powertrac.

Correction: THAT $99 saw, not THOSE $99 dollar saws, as I'm still on my first one.... :laughing:

My in-laws had a very nice Stihl saw that my brother-in-law absconded with. Yes, it was very nice. It was also a lot heavier, 5X the price, and parts were more expensive. As I said before, for what I do, there's absolutely no justification for spending the extra money on that particular tool.

Look at it this way, if I put the $200 I saved into the stock market, it would be $400+ now, and I could have a free Pro Saw. :laughing:
 
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw. #39  
Well, the OP said he's going to do very little cutting. I heat our house with wood. I try to cut locust exclusively (extremely hard to cut for this little saw), but end up with about 10% sassafras and cherry due to clearing and windfalls. I cut about 6 cords per year for that from about 50 telephone pole sized trees per year, plus the occasional assistance with the school/church/friend that needs a tree cut up/down. I'm still on my first Poulan that I bought almost exactly 9 years ago on sale, so I've got $100 in that. I'm on my third bar (damaged one in a pinch). Both bars came with chains at about $20 each, so that's another $40. I bought 2 more chains in a two-pack for less than $20. And I have a couple other chains from my dad's old Craftsman. So, about 8 chains, 6 still working. And $29 for the harbor freight sharpener. The saw is still on its original clutch and drive sprocket. Only problem ever has been the fuel line rotted from ethanol (so they tell me).

So, to summarize....

- $100 for saw with case.
- $60 for two bars and 4 chains.
- $29 for chain sharpener.

About $200 for 9 years. At least 36 cords of wood from about 300 telephone pole sized trees. And several dozen "normal" trees (maples, oaks, cherry, etc...) for friends, church, school, etc... If this one ever craps out, I'll buy another and keep using the parts/chains left over from the first. I can't justify spending $400 on a saw for what I do. I just can't. :laughing:

Very good set up and another testimony that the cheap saws WILL do the job and WILL last.
 
   / Whats the best $400 chainsaw. #40  
If you ever got your hands on a pro saw you'd toss those $99 saws. Almost like comparing a cheap shovel to an expensive powertrac.

But when doing very little cutting? Why waste money on professional saws? I'd rather put the difference in to beer. Yes I have two pro grade saws: MS361 and MS441CM. the 441 is for the big stuff or, when I want to laugh, put a 20" skip tooth bar/chain on it and noodle a batch of big rounds. Now that is fun!! I discovered that replacing the clutch cover with one without a chain catcher almost totally eliminates noodle shavings plugging up. Talked my dealer out of a covver off a junker and it gets used only for noodlign.

I do a minimum of 10 cord/year and usually well over that. Have two homeowner (192T, ms310) and two prograde. Haven't had a bit of trouble other than sprockets and a bit of tuning with any of them.
 

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