Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,801  
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One of the slab sealed up.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,802  
HA-HA. I googled Female Feline Fungus in wood - never heard of it. DUH. Had to look two more times to see the cat. It was a hard day but I got a smile from this. Thanks

gg
Like you and Hunt, I got a big smile on my face! Thank you.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,804  
Today, I filled one of my half cord boxes with splits from my self un-loading trailer...

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It works REALLY good, and it's nice splitting the wood, with the splits being pushed right off the end of the beam, into the trailer.

SR
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,805  
No tractor, but we were talking about learner's and how to cut them. Here's one for ya! I'd say she had at little slant!! I wonder if I can talk it into falling over the wall??
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So I did a bore cut, checked both sides to see how she looked. You can see the sunlight coming through in the 2nd pic
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So I cleaned up the cuts then started my back cut, or is it top cut in this case??
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She still split, but with that much torque on it, I don't see how it couldn't. Then finished her off and cut into logs.
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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,806  
^^^^
It appears that your choices were to have it split (barber chair) or pinch your saw. You did a good job minimizing the split. 👍
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,807  
Saw that coming. You still need a face and undercut, then your bore to create the hinge, then cut up but not quite all the way. Then your back cut slightly lower than your bore and it will 'pop'! The material between bore cut and back cut will prevent saw binding. We have Madrone trees out here and they rarely grow up, they grow out and across. I have cut over one hundred of these and I have never had a barber chair cutting leaners this way. You got lucky. I hope this helps you and others cut the difficult, high tension, leaner trees.
Patrick
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,808  
Saw that coming. You still need a face and undercut, then your bore to create the hinge, then cut up but not quite all the way. Then your back cut slightly lower than your bore and it will 'pop'! The material between bore cut and back cut will prevent saw binding. We have Madrone trees out here and they rarely grow up, they grow out and across. I have cut over one hundred of these and I have never had a barber chair cutting leaners this way. You got lucky. I hope this helps you and others cut the difficult, high tension, leaner trees.
Patrick
He didn't get lucky. He did bore cut. He had no notch is all which may have eliminated any laminar tear at all.
His saw cut precluded the tree severely barber chairing.
Didn't you see the pics he sent?
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,809  
I thought about a face notch, but the tree was leaning so hard about 30 degrees off level that I didn't think it would do much. I wanted more "meat" for the hinge so I left the face alone. This was a big green cherry on a root ball that was up in the air a bit, she had the potential to flip back also. Barberchair minimized, tree down, bar did not get pinched and I was safe while cutting. It's a win in my book, loads of good firewood, not a saw log. Let the leaves pull some of the moisture out, and go back to collect it later.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #17,810  
I thought about a face notch, but the tree was leaning so hard about 30 degrees off level that I didn't think it would do much. I wanted more "meat" for the hinge so I left the face alone. This was a big green cherry on a root ball that was up in the air a bit, she had the potential to flip back also. Barberchair minimized, tree down, bar did not get pinched and I was safe while cutting. It's a win in my book, loads of good firewood, not a saw log. Let the leaves pull some of the moisture out, and go back to collect it later.
It's easy to sit here in my air conditioned office and Monday morning quarterback. :D
 
 
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