TC 29D won’t start

   / TC 29D won’t start #1  

BarryBolio

New member
Joined
Nov 25, 2013
Messages
19
Location
Middlesex,VT
Tractor
New Holland Boomer Compact
Hi I have a New Holland TC 29D that habitually gives me electrical issues. I replaced battery 1 1/2 years ago and this past winter it wouldn’t start. I tried to jump it, after a few minutes instrument lights powered on. Attempted to turn over; heard a sharp click and no power to instruments. I gave up, until today, tried jumping, same as before; power to instruments tried to turn over and sharp click then nothing. Took off jumper cables and tried again, as before same result. Any thoughts on what I need to fix on this blue beast?
 
   / TC 29D won’t start #2  
Is it stored outside?
 
   / TC 29D won’t start #3  
The TC series had a problem with internal corrosion where the battery cables were pressed into the battery terminals. Allows volts but not amps to pass through so a voltmeter says everything is good. You can bypass the tractor cables with jumper cables to check that.
 
   / TC 29D won’t start #4  
If the tractor is left outside the battery cable corrosion is accelerated.
 
   / TC 29D won’t start
  • Thread Starter
#5  
The tractor is stored outside. I’ve tried jumping the battery, what do you mean by jumping the cables directly. I’m not sure I know how to try that.
 
   / TC 29D won’t start #6  
Below is from one of my previous post.... It should explain how to test your cables. Hope this is a help: (see below)


Starting Problems:

NH Have a few known gremlins that can pop-up: (these are the things I would be checking first.)
1) Battery Cables both positive & ground (description below)
2) Check for a lose / or chaffed ground wire
3) Ignition Switch -
4) Voltage at the Starter Solenoid -



Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.

You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.

Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...

If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...

Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there. I wouldn't put any more parts on it till I checked the factory cables...


Ignition Switch:
These are also prone to issues & can cause the issue your describing. (I'll see if I can find a testing procedure).... but check to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start..

Starter Solenoid:
Make sure you have 12V at the starter solenoid whe you turn the key to START...

If you see voltage only sometime I'm thinking it either a spotty ground or Ignition switch.

If you are see voltage Each time to turn the key yo the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue. This circuit shares the voltage source this the glow plug timer (& I believe passes through some of the safety switches). Overtime the wiring & connection get dirty / lose there ability to pass the voltage. You can modify the current wiring & add a dedicated relay for supplying direct power to the starter solenoid via the same circuits. I did this on our TC40D & it made a big difference for our machine
 

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