SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER

   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #1  

npalen

Elite Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
3,478
Location
Beloit, KS
Tractor
Kubota B9200 HSTD and Mahindra 3015
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Added this 3/8" 600 PSI WOG ball valve to prevent leakdown of the toplink cylinder. Wouldn't recommend it for every application due to the limited pressure rating. Planning to add a plug drilled to a .040" diameter orifice to act as a restrictor when the valve is in the "closed" position. Probably will use Loctite to keep the slug in place.
 
   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #2  
View attachment 341856
Added this 3/8" 600 PSI WOG ball valve to prevent leakdown of the toplink cylinder. Wouldn't recommend it for every application due to the limited pressure rating. Planning to add a plug drilled to a .040" diameter orifice to act as a restrictor when the valve is in the "closed" position. Probably will use Loctite to keep the slug in place.

Unless your system runs at less than 600 PSI this is going to break especially if you install the orifice. That will now instantly bring your pressure up to whatever your tractor relief is set at.
 
   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #3  
For hydraulics, I suggest you use a steel ball valve like Surplus Center 9-7281-6 rated 7250psi
 
   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #4  
A couple of things.

First, the valve that you are using is a potential BOMB. Really need to get that out of the system and if you can't get your valve to not leak, at least use a ball valve that is rated for your systems pressure. And FYI, for 2" dia cylinders, I use restrictors with a .0032 hole and they still move plenty quick enough. I would try that first, you can always drill it out bigger. A little tougher to fill it in though. :rolleyes:

I hope that you can get your concerns taken care of. ;)
 
   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Okay, guys, you're right.
 
   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #6  
A couple of things.

First, the valve that you are using is a potential BOMB. Really need to get that out of the system and if you can't get your valve to not leak, at least use a ball valve that is rated for your systems pressure. And FYI, for 2" dia cylinders, I use restrictors with a .0032 hole and they still move plenty quick enough. I would try that first, you can always drill it out bigger. A little tougher to fill it in though. :rolleyes:

I hope that you can get your concerns taken care of. ;)

i think you added a zero. your not gonna get much flow through a hole 32 ten thousands, thats the size of a single human hair.


p.s. i was curious as to what an orifice that size would flow, so i did the math at 2000PSI that would flow less than 1 fl.oz. per minute :)
 
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   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #8  
I tried to build my own top link and the **** thing keeps leaking down. And it's weird because it doesn't always do it, and then it does it a lot, when you least expect it. It's a new cylinder. Why is this application such an exception? If you look at commercially built top link cylinders, they have all kinds of weird stuff on them, obviously to prevent this.

Can someone please explain the physics behind this?

Just an additional thought. Is the unwanted leakage through the cylinder or through the aux circuit? If it was on the cylinder, no external plumbing stuff on the cylinder would correct this . . . .or? And I can't imagine the aux circuit leaking, especially so quickly on occassion.
 
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   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #9  
i think you added a zero. your not gonna get much flow through a hole 32 ten thousands, thats the size of a single human hair.


p.s. i was curious as to what an orifice that size would flow, so i did the math at 2000PSI that would flow less than 1 fl.oz. per minute :)

Ok, I was in a hurry, wife was flogging me. ;)
 
   / SHUTOFF VALVE FOR TOPLINK CYLINDER #10  
I tried to build my own top link and the **** thing keeps leaking down. And it's weird because it doesn't always do it, and then it does it a lot, when you least expect it. It's a new cylinder. Why is this application such an exception? If you look at commercially built top link cylinders, they have all kinds of weird stuff on them, obviously to prevent this.

Can someone please explain the physics behind this?

Just an additional thought. Is the unwanted leakage through the cylinder or through the aux circuit? If it was on the cylinder, no external plumbing stuff on the cylinder would correct this . . . .or? And I can't imagine the aux circuit leaking, especially so quickly on occassion.

Unplug both hoses to the cylinder. If it leaks down you know it's internal leakage in the cylinder. If it does not, then it's leakage of your valve.
 

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