Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?

   / Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ? #31  
What do I put this stuff on with? A Roller?

What about Drylok what do i put that on with?

100% solids epoxy floor paint: mix, pour, lay it off with a roller. Watch the video's they show the process.

Unless they have a product I don't know, about Drylok is for below grade walls. That's a whole different ball game.

Drylok is only good to 10 psi. Which might be enough for your application, but a 10 psi rating is not very high.

It is applied by brush or roller.

I suggest: Zinsser Water Tite, for that application. http://www.worldpaintsupply.com/zinsser-watertite-waterproofing-paint-1-gallon/. It's good to 34 psi.

I have applied aprox. 50 gallons of this stuff since it came out, and it has never failed. It also is one of the few cement paints, (they have cement in them, that's how they work), that produces a smooth finish. It is oil based, and it does have a minerals spirits odor. You need to be able to ventilate the area. This can be accomplished by renting some blowers.
 
   / Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ?
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#32  
   / Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ? #33  
Thanks for posting Joe. I was wondering the same thing. My last house I was used rust oleum kit and it was great but I never parked on it. I went to do my garage this past spring and went to buy kit. Got bogged down in reviews and gave up.

I never thought of posting here. Great info.
 
   / Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ? #34  
I used PPG Aquapon 35 in part of my shop. 2.5 years later none has failed. I don't do welding in that area so I cannot tell you how it reacts to heat. I have dragged 1000# plus lathes and milling machines across the floor with only surface scratches as a result. None has peeled up. It is only available to pros as far as I know, my industrial/commercial painter freind picked it up for me.

whatever you use, prep is everything. I pressure washed the floor 3 times until 100% of the water was clear. I let it dry an the acid etched it. Pressure washed again and let it dry for a few days before coating.
 
   / Shop Floor Epoxy's, Which ones to use/stay away from. Also Drylok ? #35  
Frogfish is dead on......prep of the floor is 99% of the trick to get a long-lasting application.Prep,prep,prep........did I say to prep the floor? Ha! I'm too removed from concreting to know anything about the acid staining. I can say something about stamped and colored concrete though.FIRST,you cannot beat having an experienced professional(not a carpenter or other trade who THINK they can finish crete)to place and finish the concrete.
When making a truly tough concrete floor and using dye, I would pour on stone base but no plastic beneath,unless garage is on really wet ground.The reason for this is the `bleed water'will appear on top and may not go back down until the crete is past needing floated and troweled.NEVER trowel bleed water into concrete,as it weakens and discolors.
I opt to pour with super-p(super plasticizer)which allows a 3"slump to become a 7"slump for easy placement,but retains the strength of pouring 3"slump crete.
Add the plasticizer on the job,never trust a batch plant to add it for you,plus it will eat up your placement time(generally 40-50 minutes at 7"slump for easy placement) while being delivered to you.
Finally....on an inside floor, STAY AWAY from added air entrainment,which only costs you density and strength garage flooring ahwatukee. don-ohio :)^)
I just finished half of the shop floor with gray epoxy from Home Depot. Cheap and easy to do myself. It brighten the inside up. Next is paint all walls and add more lights.
 
 
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