Replacing rear lollipop lights - B3030 HSDCC

[JJZ 109]

Found and purchased a nice set of amber/red LED lollipops on ebay. Am just now installing them on a new B3030 HSDCC.
I noticed that each side has a little two prong female pigtail hanging unused up there at the lollipop mounting bracket at top of cab. Are these wires run to any cab switches or do they terminate in the cab someplace where they can be switched for rear work lights? I threw on each of the switches and didn't get anything out of them on my test light.
If I could, I'd grab a set of work lights someplace today rig them up if was possible.

 

[WaxMan]

Found and purchased a nice set of amber/red LED lollipops on ebay. Am just now installing them on a new B3030 HSDCC.
I noticed that each side has a little two prong female pigtail hanging unused up there at the lollipop mounting bracket at top of cab. Are these wires run to any cab switches or do they terminate in the cab someplace where they can be switched for rear work lights? I threw on each of the switches and didn't get anything out of them on my test light.
If I could, I'd grab a set of work lights someplace today rig them up if was possible.

Those are for the Kubota factory work lights, the switch, brackets, and bolts come in the kit.
The power wires are above the headliner.
Get the rear work lights from Kubota (only) they match the front lights and are plenty bright.

 

[Ductape]

Ditto on what the WaxMan said. Keep in mind that if you reduce the load on your flasher (assuming our tractors have a standard flasher) enough with the LEDs, you will also need to buy an electronic flasher to make them flash.

 

[JJZ 109]

Ditto on what the WaxMan said. Keep in mind that if you reduce the load on your flasher (assuming our tractors have a standard flasher) enough with the LEDs, you will also need to buy an electronic flasher to make them flash.

Of course there's always a slight derailment of some sort. The new LED's are 3 wire. Red, white, black. The light is mounted into the factory bracket that the old lollipop was in. I grounded the black. I have power from the tractor's hot wire, because my test light will flash when touched to the wire. When applying the tractor's hot wire to either red or white wires on the light, I get zero.
Even taking into account your flasher statement, I took the light directly to a car battery and touched the black to negative and red/white to positive. No light. Obviously I'm no electrician but I thought that this would be fairly simple.

 

[Ductape]

Have you tried grounding the white wire instead of the black?

 

[JJZ 109]

Have you tried grounding the white wire instead of the black?

Ductape, you're a genius and just brightened my day!
I guess that I just went by the old automotive maxim of red/hot and black/ground instead of thinking like residential wiring and the black being hot.

 

[WaxMan]

I just changed my lights over the black is parking lamp, the white is ground and the red to the flashers, Mine has no problem with the factory flasher.
I hooked up the parking light of the lollypop to my running lights.
I don't know if you seen my post on running lights.

 

[Ductape]

No, I'm no genius.............. but I did stay @ a Holiday Inn Express once!

 

[JJZ 109]

Man I hate it when I have to scratch my head and then go find advice for something so simple. Thanks for the help. One job out of many to come is now complete.
Of course there wasn't an instruction to be found in the package for dunces like myself. As waxman notes, so far the factory flasher seems to be handling things OK.

 

[WaxMan]

Great job you move fast , nice garage to work in too.
For your next trick,