Rear blade dilemma. Options?

[Soldier415]

I currently have a 6' light duty rear blade from Tractor supply. Main use for it would be reshaping/crowning my 1/4 mile drive. I use a LPGS for general refinishing but I have a large section that needs more material spread as it is flat and there is not enough to scrape up.

My rear tires are 70" from outside edge to outside edge. So when the blade is angled the tires are wider than the blade and due to ditches and drop offs I can't put the rear wheels over to get the blade to the edge.

That would be solved by going to a wider blade, the problem being my driveway is 10' wide so the 5' coverage when angled allows for the blade to shape exactly one half at a time. If I went to say a 7' blade, which would be just wider than the rear tires when angled, it would now extend 1' over onto the other side of the drive preventing me from building a crown in the center right?

The only option I can think of would be getting a 6' blade with offset capability which would allow me to get the blade to the edge of the driveway while only covering half the road width. I would also like one with a gauge wheel on the back as there are a number of changes in slope.

Am I correct in my assumptions about the problem associated with going to a wider blade? Would 6' blade with offset be the ideal solution?

Tractor is a L3430HSTC with 3 remotes and top n tilt.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have a 9" blade. You can clearly see that I was not cutting 9' wide. You have top & tilt, (easy control) I would go with a 7' blade.

 

[fried1765]

I currently have a 6' light duty rear blade from Tractor supply. Main use for it would be reshaping/crowning my 1/4 mile drive. I use a LPGS for general refinishing but I have a large section that needs more material spread as it is flat and there is not enough to scrape up.

My rear tires are 70" from outside edge to outside edge. So when the blade is angled the tires are wider than the blade and due to ditches and drop offs I can't put the rear wheels over to get the blade to the edge.

That would be solved by going to a wider blade, the problem being my driveway is 10' wide so the 5' coverage when angled allows for the blade to shape exactly one half at a time. If I went to say a 7' blade, which would be just wider than the rear tires when angled, it would now extend 1' over onto the other side of the drive preventing me from building a crown in the center right?

The only option I can think of would be getting a 6' blade with offset capability which would allow me to get the blade to the edge of the driveway while only covering half the road width. I would also like one with a gauge wheel on the back as there are a number of changes in slope.

Am I correct in my assumptions about the problem associated with going to a wider blade? Would 6' blade with offset be the ideal solution?

Tractor is a L3430HSTC with 3 remotes and top n tilt.

No!
Your assumptions are not correct!
You can make a crown with a 7', 8', or 9' blade, you just need to set the proper tilt.
An offset blade would be very desirable for what you want to do!
Forming the crown is all about technique.
You might try to find a video showing how a road/highway/construction grader works.

 

[katoomed00]

How about kicking the blade over to one side using the stabilizing/turnbuckle arms on the 3pt lowering links? You ought to be able to get close to a foot.

 

[Soldier415]

I have a 9" blade. You can clearly see that I was not cutting 9' wide. You have top & tilt, (easy control) I would go with a 7' blade.

No!
Your assumptions are not correct!
You can make a crown with a 7', 8', or 9' blade, you just need to set the proper tilt.
An offset blade would be very desirable for what you want to do!
Forming the crown is all about technique.
You might try to find a video showing how a road/highway/construction grader works.

Thank you for the input. Been looking at rear blades and thought a Woods HBL84-2 would be a good choice: Product Details

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Maybe a Land Pride RB3784? The LP unit is a little heavier. Or one of these.

Any of the 3 should perform fairly well for you.

 

[jeff9366]

How about kicking the blade over to one side using the stabilizing/turnbuckle arms on the 3pt lowering links? You ought to be able to get close to a foot.

Better to produce tilt by moving Lower Link stirrup pin adjustment from default upper pin position, to one of two lower pin positions on the left side, lowering left side of blade, raising right side relatively. Remember: Lower hole = lower implement.

(Small tractors have only two pin holes in the stirrup, some Category Two tractors have four pin holes in the stirrup.)

Usually you obtain a greater degree of manual adjustment making the pin adjustment(s) and the two Lifting Rods share the load more. You can fine tune tilt by screwing the right Lifting Rod adjuster in or out.

Make the pin adjustment before mounting the implement. Clean and grease the pin(s) for easier insertion and removal.


When using a Three Point Hitch mounted Cultivator or Box Blade, and perhaps rear blade oriented perpendicular, sometimes it can be helpful to lower right and left pin adjustments, obtaining more bite from the implement.


And, YES, hydraulic Top Link and right Lifting Rod adjustment from Fit Rite is much superior. With T'nT installed you have hydraulic control on the right Lifting Rod and manual adjustment on the left Lifting Rod plus hydraulic control of Top Link length.

 

[Ford850]

I had a 6' medium duty blade, and upgraded to a Land Pride RB3784 (7') blade. I got it with the side plates, shoes, and hydraulic angle options. Without those added options, it looks like its just a little heavier than the Woods you are looking at, so a good comparison. I was considering a model with the wheel like you are, but decided to skip that. I found the side plates help tremendously for pulling and redistributing the 411 (1" down to fines) crushed stone. I haven't found the shoes to help much so I keep them raised. I like to set my blade angle and height, put the tractor in low range, 1st gear, and crawl s l o w l y up the drive. I usually enjoy a beverage of my choice, relaxing and making small tweaks to the blade as I go. The blade fills to the top, rolling the spoils forward and redistributing. I can see/feel humps as I drive over them (although they are nearly gone since getting this blade) and raise/lower the blade to level those areas. Getting this blade has been the best decision I've made for attachments. I used to dread heavy storms, knowing my drive washed out down the 400' hill section. Now I enjoy getting the time on the tractor, knowing how easy and relaxing it is. We've had 6" of rain in the past 2 weeks, and I'll be regarding the drive this weekend for the 3rd time, and I'm looking forward to it (thanks to the Top n Tilt from Fit Rite Hydraulics, and my new blade).

 

[Soldier415]

Another question. Would the 7' blade end up being 6' wide when angled? That would only leave me an inch clearance width on either side of the tires?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Another question. Would the 7' blade end up being 6' wide when angled? That would only leave me an inch clearance width on either side of the tires?

Angled how far?

22 1/2* = about 78" wide

30* = about 74" wide

35* = about 66" wide

45* = about 60" wide

Remember that you will have offset. I just don't think that a 4000lb + or - tractor is going to handle an 8' blade very well. Now if you have your tractor ballasted and you are up over 5000lbs, maybe, but still seems a little light to me.

Good luck.

 

[jeff9366]

POSTED BY BABY GRAND 1/18/2013​

Re: Rear blade sizing

1) Measure your rear tires, outside sidewall to outside sidewall.
Multiply by 1.4.
This is how wide you will need the blade to cover your wheels with it set at 45 degrees.

2) Measure your rear tires, outside sidewall to outside sidewall.
Multiply by 1.15.
This is how wide you will need the blade to cover your wheels with it set at 30 degrees.

3) Determine if you need 45 or 30 degree operation.

4) Go blade shopping.


"That's the problem with trouble.
It always starts out as such fun."
- Randall Brown

 

[Soldier415]

Angled how far?

22 1/2* = about 78" wide

30* = about 74" wide

35* = about 66" wide

45* = about 60" wide

Remember that you will have offset. I just don't think that a 4000lb + or - tractor is going to handle an 8' blade very well. Now if you have your tractor ballasted and you are up over 5000lbs, maybe, but still seems a little light to me.

Good luck.

Thanks for the info. Would be angled just enough to move material from the outer edge in to the center.

 

[Gordon Gould]

You could get a 7' blade that is offsetable and have all the options covered. I offset mine when the shoulder I want to dress is to soft to drive on. This is a 6' blade at max angle and offset on a 5' wide tractor.



gg

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the info. Would be angled just enough to move material from the outer edge in to the center.

The movement of the material will vary depending on the moisture content. I know that the wetter it is the steeper the angle required. What I consider to be perfect working moisture content works well with about a 35* blade angle.

Of course type of material will make a difference also.

One last thing, and I suppose that your material type would make a difference, but I have found that skid shoes on the blade help out tremendously.

YMMV.

 

[oosik]

I recently purchased a heavier rear blade(Rhino 950, 8 ft @ 1000#). Its so I can penetrate my d**n rock hard, just like concrete, driveway in the summer time.

I have an 8 ft Land Pride @ 566# but it just wouldn't do it in the summer.

Anyhow, winter for snow - I run the rear blade somewhere around 40 degrees angle and full offset. This gives me right at a 68" cut width. Summer - I run the 40 degree angle but only sufficient offset to fully cover a rear tire on one side.

I adjust the offset, in the winter, so the "cut width" is from the inside of the rear tire on one side to a foot to 14" outside the rear tire on the other side. If I wanted to set the rear blade at 40 degrees and totally cover the 80" wide rear tread width - I'd need a rear blade at a minimum of 115".

This new rear blade has worked out great for summer maintenance. The tractor weighs 10,100# and with the 1000# rear blade, I can finally cut and sculpt the driveway. I drop the rear blade until its just touching the driveway - and with the hydraulic top link, I make final adjustment to "plane" off exactly the depth I want. Finally, after years of fiddly fa*ting around - a really smooth operation.

 

[oosik]

View attachment 515458


This is how I have the tractor setup right now.

 

[Texasmark]

I have a 9" blade. You can clearly see that I was not cutting 9' wide. You have top & tilt, (easy control) I would go with a 7' blade.

Very nice. Having a hydraulically operated blade DOES make a difference...makes your tractor just like the county's road maintainers (almost) with their hydraulically operated blades. Grin

 

[ArlyA]

We are looking at the 7 or ?ft hydraulic actuated rear blade so I'm following this thread. Thanks to all for the insights.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

We are looking at the 7 or ?ft hydraulic actuated rear blade so I'm following this thread. Thanks to all for the insights.

If the rear blade is for the 4052R or similar size, I would go with an 8' unit. Don't just go for cost, but look at the actual features. Many blades have different offset capabilities, and not just different by a few inches, more like about a foot. There are still a few blades that are only adjustable in a single direction and to adjust in the opposite direction the cylinders need to be changed to the opposite side. :thumbdown:

 

[Soldier415]

Currently researching blade options. Since I have a free remote in the rear i'm considering going for a blade with hydraulic angle control so I can adjust all functions without leaving the seat