RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,885
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
With the driveshaft Ujoint problem on my first JD (a 4010) and a lemon of a 1025R, I'd gone sour on JDs, particularly after finding out that they have not solved their Ujoint problem.
Been researching Kubotas, as it's really the only other tractor outfit around here. Was very interested in a B2301. I put together a spreadsheet comparing it to the 2025R, and the B2301 won out on the spreadsheet comparison.
However, found a B2301 owner with the same throttle lack of hold that I had on the 1025R. Another perennial Kubota problem seems to be their hydraulic couplings. A friend of mine with one has leaking couplings, and others have reported them, some fairly early.
Kubota engines do not seem to be as smooth as Yanmars either, even though the 3 JDs I've owned all have had the shudder and shake startups when cold (like 1973 and 1983 Benzes we've owned) vs. very smooth on our VW TDI and Isuzu diesel generator driver. At speed, they're smooth. 3,000 rpm is smooth. Normally only run the 2025R to about 2,500 rpm max because I simply do not need all its available hp. The 18.5 that I had with the 4010 was completely adequate for bush hog, chipper/shredder and snow moving work.
Turns out the B2301 has also a weird thing in its oil pan: 2 drain plugs. Would't be able to use my oil extractor like I've done on the 3 JDs.
Cannot beat the absolutely goof proof working of the FEL on the 2025R (vs. the 1025R's being a disgrace). The 4010's was equally as goof proof, just slow.
Gobs of 3ph adjustment holes on the 2025R vs. seemingly not too many on the B. Finally found the hole combo that I use for both the bush hog (to get it nice and high) and the MacKissic chipper/shredder.
Guess I'm stuck with green. They're, by far, the closest dealership but actually moved to the old Volvo site and has a huge increase in stock. My sales guy mounted the 1025R's tool box onto the 2025R where it is on the 1025R (behind the seat).
Guess I'll actually change out the coolant this year (3rd). Think JD and Kubota's recommendation of coolant change ever 2 years is severely old stuff what with cars (and the Isuzu) going 10 years.
Going 200 hours on those sorry Ujoints. I just have the dealer do them. They actually remove them to get to the zerks.
Not doing 10 hour greasing of a couple JD zerks. They get the same 50 hour service as the other stuff, sans the Ujoints.
Going every other year on oil changes, synthetic of course, and 5w30 or 0w30.
Get realistic, JD, on those grease intervals and make those Ujoints accessible or sealed, apparently like ones on other cars, trucks and tractors. My neighbor says JD has gone sealed on the tie rod ends (that have been that way for 50 years on cars/trucks) on bigger JD tractors. I've only ever had to replace 1 (that's ONE) tie rod end on all the vehicles I've ever owned (those go karts I serviced one summer on Lake Texoma don't count: now they were rather awful).
I do not let my JD sit and idle for 20 minutes after starting in cold weather like the B2301 Operator's Manual says to do. It gets started and gets going soon as it's idle steadies out, which doesn't take too long. Use the low vis hydraulic fluid, of course.
Ralph
Been researching Kubotas, as it's really the only other tractor outfit around here. Was very interested in a B2301. I put together a spreadsheet comparing it to the 2025R, and the B2301 won out on the spreadsheet comparison.
However, found a B2301 owner with the same throttle lack of hold that I had on the 1025R. Another perennial Kubota problem seems to be their hydraulic couplings. A friend of mine with one has leaking couplings, and others have reported them, some fairly early.
Kubota engines do not seem to be as smooth as Yanmars either, even though the 3 JDs I've owned all have had the shudder and shake startups when cold (like 1973 and 1983 Benzes we've owned) vs. very smooth on our VW TDI and Isuzu diesel generator driver. At speed, they're smooth. 3,000 rpm is smooth. Normally only run the 2025R to about 2,500 rpm max because I simply do not need all its available hp. The 18.5 that I had with the 4010 was completely adequate for bush hog, chipper/shredder and snow moving work.
Turns out the B2301 has also a weird thing in its oil pan: 2 drain plugs. Would't be able to use my oil extractor like I've done on the 3 JDs.
Cannot beat the absolutely goof proof working of the FEL on the 2025R (vs. the 1025R's being a disgrace). The 4010's was equally as goof proof, just slow.
Gobs of 3ph adjustment holes on the 2025R vs. seemingly not too many on the B. Finally found the hole combo that I use for both the bush hog (to get it nice and high) and the MacKissic chipper/shredder.
Guess I'm stuck with green. They're, by far, the closest dealership but actually moved to the old Volvo site and has a huge increase in stock. My sales guy mounted the 1025R's tool box onto the 2025R where it is on the 1025R (behind the seat).
Guess I'll actually change out the coolant this year (3rd). Think JD and Kubota's recommendation of coolant change ever 2 years is severely old stuff what with cars (and the Isuzu) going 10 years.
Going 200 hours on those sorry Ujoints. I just have the dealer do them. They actually remove them to get to the zerks.
Not doing 10 hour greasing of a couple JD zerks. They get the same 50 hour service as the other stuff, sans the Ujoints.
Going every other year on oil changes, synthetic of course, and 5w30 or 0w30.
Get realistic, JD, on those grease intervals and make those Ujoints accessible or sealed, apparently like ones on other cars, trucks and tractors. My neighbor says JD has gone sealed on the tie rod ends (that have been that way for 50 years on cars/trucks) on bigger JD tractors. I've only ever had to replace 1 (that's ONE) tie rod end on all the vehicles I've ever owned (those go karts I serviced one summer on Lake Texoma don't count: now they were rather awful).
I do not let my JD sit and idle for 20 minutes after starting in cold weather like the B2301 Operator's Manual says to do. It gets started and gets going soon as it's idle steadies out, which doesn't take too long. Use the low vis hydraulic fluid, of course.
Ralph
