Pole barn question

[Paul2000]

I am building a 40 x 80 pole barn. It is 14 feet high. There are 2 skirt boards around the bottom. The metal that was sent is 14 feet high. My question is how close to the ground should the metal be. The building has an overhang and this caused the metal to have to drop down under the soffit, pushing the bottom of the metal within about 2 inches from the ground and covering both skirt boards. I am concerned that I will not be able to change out the skirt board in the future if it rots although it is treated. I am also concerned about the dew on the grass starting the metal rusting, hitting it with the mower, etc. I can get a ban saw and trim them all if necessary , if it isn稚 a problem I will just install them as is.

 

[srs]

Paul2000, I would keep the metal at least 6 inches above the grass level. My Morton building was built pretty close to the grass level and everytime I weedwack I have to be careful I don't dent the metal. I wish I would had the building raised a little higher.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

one of the best things you can do is pour a concrete base around the building. This will keep weeds, bugs and rodents further from the building as well as help with erosion.

We usually put the steel a couple inches above ground level.

 

[EddieWalker]

Instead of cutting your metal siding, I'd move the grass away from your building a few feet. Ideally, put down some fabric that will stop plants from growing and cover with a few inches of rock.

I'm building a small building for my hot tub and will put 30lb roofing felt paper around the sides of it. Then I'm going to put two inches of rock over the felt paper. Once a year, or when needed, I'll also spray the rock for weeds.

If you decide to cut the metal, put the blade in your electric hand saw backwards. It's very noisey, so be sure to wear earing protection along with eye protection, but it cuts real easy and quickly.

Eddie

 

[rural2]

The instructions w/the kit barn we just erected say... Treated bottom girt, stainless screws to attach bottom girt and metal siding 4 1/2 +/-" above subgrade. We just assumed this allows for 4 1/2" of concrete or gravel to finish grade. When we determined truss elevation the 4 1/2" was part of this. At this point, in your case, I would take a look at your existing subgrade for what would work best to allow water to flow away from the structure with a minimal amount of labor and materials. I wouldn't have any problem w/concrete, gravel or dirt againt treated lumber as long as it isn't soaking wet all the time.
I agree w/others... If possible, no grass, plants, etc next to the structure for reasons already stated.

 

[bindian]

Instead of cutting your metal siding, I'd move the grass away from your building a few feet. Ideally, put down some fabric that will stop plants from growing and cover with a few inches of rock.

I'm building a small building for my hot tub and will put 30lb roofing felt paper around the sides of it. Then I'm going to put two inches of rock over the felt paper. Once a year, or when needed, I'll also spray the rock for weeds.

If you decide to cut the metal, put the blade in your electric hand saw backwards. It's very noisey, so be sure to wear earing protection along with eye protection, but it cuts real easy and quickly.

Eddie

I have heard of this backwards blade before. I found metal cutting blades at my local Lowe's for around $6. The metal cutting blades really should be used with at least a cheap disposable nose mask also.
hugs, Brandi

 

[marimus]

I have heard of this backwards blade before. I found metal cutting blades at my local Lowe's for around $6. The metal cutting blades really should be used with at least a cheap disposable nose mask also.
hugs, Brandi

Tungsten or Carborundum (Silicon carbide)?

The Carborundum will cause lots of tiny little rust spots to appear in you sheets, as it tends to throw hot sparks that burn through the protective coating, unless your talking Aluminium sheets of course

Cran

 

[AllWaysBreakinSomething]

Hi Paul,
I'm also building a Pole Barn and I don't have a concrete foundation around the base. I built a box at the base out of 3 treated 2x6's. One on the inside, one outside and the other is between the inner and outer 2x6 to make it rigid and keep them from bowing. This created a really strong box at the bottom of my wall. The metal will start at the center of the 2x6. I'm not sure which will last longer the treated wood or the painted 26 guage galvanized metal. Either way I'll have to losen the lower metal screw to replace the boards. I assume your kit is all metal parts. How did you build the structure with no foundation?

I second the rust spots. You can lay a towel over the side your going to keep when cutting to catch the flying fragments. My dad likes to use cardboard. Touchup the edges with some same color paint. This will be the most noticeable rusting otherwise. White metal is really noticeable so keep it clean and away from trees.

Just some thoughts. Post some pics

 

[bindian]

Tungsten or Carborundum (Silicon carbide)?

The Carborundum will cause lots of tiny little rust spots to appear in you sheets, as it tends to throw hot sparks that burn through the protective coating, unless your talking Aluminium sheets of course

Cran

Cran,
Thanks for the heads up. I use them at work in pneumatics, but we do use aluminium there. I will go up and look at the trim I have cut to see what it looks like. I will remember the towel or cardboard trick also.
hugs, Brandi