Planting seed

[1930]

I know very little about farming but that is changing.

Ive staked out an area 200 feet square, at this point there is some bare spots still and some areas where native grasses have taken over.

My plan is to plant sun hemp next season, what is the cheapest/most efficient means to get the seed into the ground?

Once the seed is planted I am under the impression that it will strangle out or block light to anything else living under it which is a benefit for me, I just need to get the seed in the ground without spending a ton of money, I am on a very tight budget because I am trying to meet a financial goal. Thank-you

I have done alot of work to my property, here is a video of some of that work 73property - YouTube

Since making this video I have planted many edible trees and will continue to do so. Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

I planted Hancock brand Sunn Hemp on 1-1/2 acres the last two summers. My soil is unusually high 7.5 pH due to natural lime rock. Sunn Hemp did not come up thick enough to shade out mixed grasses and nefarious nutsedge. Thin stand of Sunn Hemp two summers in succession may be due to high soil pH.

I have 150 pounds of Florida Black Rye on order from Hancock seed which I will plant in three weeks while my rainfall is still dependable. I will leave unmowed Rye on the land until it dies in mid-Spring 2021, then plow it under. Florida Black Rye is a Phase 2 cover crop experiment. From vigor of wild grass feeding on fertilizer spread for Sunn Hemp, I am expecting a thick, high crop of winter Rye.

I fertilize with 'Crop Master Fertilizer' from Mayo Fertilizer, Mayo, Florida. About $18 for 50 pounds at Ace Hardware. The blend I apply is 16-4-8 with 10% Sulfur. Over three or four years the Sulfur should reduce soil pH from 7.5 to 6.5, which is acceptable to a wider variety of plants. With a high organic content soil pH is less critical than in low organic content soils.

Eventually, when my soil is richer, I intend to plant Argentina Bahia as low maintenance turf.

Be sure to get a soil test before planting and amend per test recommendations. If your soil pH and nutrients are not right for Sunn Hemp you will be disappointed with your results. I planted after soil test knowing my high pH, after applying correct fertilizer. Rolled in seed with a Cultipacker.


To cover seed on a budget drag a log behind the tractor or chain several tires together and drag them. Pray for rain.



Product Information:

Florida 401 Grain Rye is commonly referred to as "Florida Black Rye". FL 401 Grain Rye comes up early in the season and is widely used for windbreaks, erosion control, cover crops, winter cattle forage, haylage, and for weed suppression in the cool season. It is much taller than other varieties. Grain Rye varieties have extensive root systems making them among the best green manures for improving soil. While it stabilizes excess soil and manure nitrogen it also is an excellent soil renovator and pioneer crop for new fields. FL 401 Grain rye can reach a height of 4 to 5 feet tall and is very fast to establish, producing deer feed in as little as fourteen days in ideal conditions. This winter grazer rye grain is preferred by deer, turkey, and rabbit.

 

[oosik]

I'm about as far away from the Op and still be in the good 'ol USA. I planted an acre to wild grasses. There is a seed company nearby that will prepare custom blends of wild grasses.

First I disked the land several times. Then smoothed with a home made drag. Hand sewed these seeds and drug a final time to cover. It has turned out well. About 75% of the seed sprouted and have taken over this area. Some of the seed simply didn't like my soil and never sprouted. My home made drag. I drag it with my ATV. View attachment 668932

 

[skipperbrown]

My method:
1. Soil Analysis.
2. Timing (find out best date to plant preferably right before a long, steady, gentle rain)
3. Spray vegetation killer, wait 2 weeks, mow as low as possible
4. Disk
5. Smooth
6. Broadcast seed, fertilizer and lime (local farm seed stores are a good source of what works in your area)
7. Lightly cover unless planting depth is 1/4" otherwise, don't cover
8. Reseed any bare spots.

 

[RalphVa]

Have no experience with so much sand nor Sunn Hemp. Sounds like Jeff knows Sunn Hemp,l and skipper has some good general recommendations.

Noticed your trees have "mulch vulcanos". The mulch should not be so high nor cover the collar of the tree. Not sure about whether you amend or not when planting trees there. Probably have to amend where the drip area will eventually go to.

Could not understand a word you said. I've poor hearing.

Ralph

 

[rScotty]

I know very little about farming but that is changing.

Ive staked out an area 200 feet square, at this point there is some bare spots still and some areas where native grasses have taken over.

I have done alot of work to my property, here is a video of some of that work 73property - YouTube

Since making this video I have planted many edible trees and will continue to do so. Thanks

Watched your video and that sure gives a good sense of the property. I had to reclaim my own land after a flood, and have some hints for you. Some I did and some I wish I had.....

One hint that always works is to find out who your County Agricultural Extension Agent is - not the master gardener, there is often one of those. But what you want is the Ag scientist that the local farmers and especially the hay growers talk to. Most counties have one and it's a free service. Ours has an office at the county fairgrounds. Get to know him or her and get set up with some soil and water testing. It costs nothing, and also hooks you up with the local Ag college - another good source.

If you are looking at rye and hemp it sounds to me that you want hay more than grass, and truth is that some types of mowed hay makes pretty good grass. Plus more information is available on hays than on lawn grasses.

After the Ag agent tests you can "amend the chemistry" of the topsoil to their recommended values to make the soil favorable or at least neutral for planting. That takes some tilling and costs real dollars but I will guarantee that at the end of the growing season you will come out ahead. And the benefits continue. Particularly so where you are surrounded by that handy slope which will contain you good soil. I've got a feeling those slopes are going to be your friends.

BTW, did you know that you can "mulch" slopes with rocks? Not that you seem to have any spare rocks, but rocks retain moisture and nutrients underneath. You may not want rocks on the flat ground, but rocks are particularly good for establishing trees on a slope. If you put on your "farmer's eyes" and look at the wild land around you may see what I'm trying to say.

Along about 15:45 in your video I see some really nice volunteer or wild grass there. There is often someone in the Ag office who specializes in grass identification. If I had a stand of nice volunteer thick grass like that I'd want to know more about it. At least get an idea of what type of grass family it belongs to. You may have the right answer to your hay or grass question right there already on your land.

Good luck,
rScotty

 

[1930]

I planted Hancock brand Sunn Hemp on 1-1/2 acres the last two summers. My soil is unusually high 7.5 pH due to natural lime rock. Sunn Hemp did not come up thick enough to shade out mixed grasses and nefarious nutsedge. Thin stand of Sunn Hemp two summers in succession may be due to high soil pH.

I have 150 pounds of Florida Black Rye on order from Hancock seed which I will plant in three weeks while my rainfall is still dependable. I will leave unmowed Rye on the land until it dies in mid-Spring 2021, then plow it under. Florida Black Rye is a Phase 2 cover crop experiment. From vigor of wild grass feeding on fertilizer spread for Sunn Hemp, I am expecting a thick, high crop of winter Rye.

I fertilize with 'Crop Master Fertilizer' from Mayo Fertilizer, Mayo, Florida. About $18 for 50 pounds at Ace Hardware. The blend I apply is 16-4-8 with 10% Sulfur. Over three or four years the Sulfur should reduce soil pH from 7.5 to 6.5, which is acceptable to a wider variety of plants. With a high organic content soil pH is less critical than in low organic content soils.

Eventually, when my soil is richer, I intend to plant Argentina Bahia as low maintenance turf.

Be sure to get a soil test before planting and amend per test recommendations. If your soil pH and nutrients are not right for Sunn Hemp you will be disappointed with your results. I planted after soil test knowing my high pH, after applying correct fertilizer. Rolled in seed with a Cultipacker.


To cover seed on a budget drag a log behind the tractor or chain several tires together and drag them. Pray for rain.



Product Information:

Florida 401 Grain Rye is commonly referred to as "Florida Black Rye". FL 401 Grain Rye comes up early in the season and is widely used for windbreaks, erosion control, cover crops, winter cattle forage, haylage, and for weed suppression in the cool season. It is much taller than other varieties. Grain Rye varieties have extensive root systems making them among the best green manures for improving soil. While it stabilizes excess soil and manure nitrogen it also is an excellent soil renovator and pioneer crop for new fields. FL 401 Grain rye can reach a height of 4 to 5 feet tall and is very fast to establish, producing deer feed in as little as fourteen days in ideal conditions. This winter grazer rye grain is preferred by deer, turkey, and rabbit.

Id like to know what the implement is that you are pulling behind your tractor? Thank you

I'm about as far away from the Op and still be in the good 'ol USA. I planted an acre to wild grasses. There is a seed company nearby that will prepare custom blends of wild grasses.

First I disked the land several times. Then smoothed with a home made drag. Hand sewed these seeds and drug a final time to cover. It has turned out well. About 75% of the seed sprouted and have taken over this area. Some of the seed simply didn't like my soil and never sprouted. My home made drag. I drag it with my ATV. View attachment 668932

I was told that it needed to go down in the ground, that if I tried to toss and drag I would be severely disappointed.

I was told that 99% of the people whom try to use sun hemp ( its a legume plant so it provides oxygen to the soil ) disregard the warning of dont drag it in and they end up wasting alot of money.

My method:
1. Soil Analysis.
2. Timing (find out best date to plant preferably right before a long, steady, gentle rain)
3. Spray vegetation killer, wait 2 weeks, mow as low as possible
4. Disk
5. Smooth
6. Broadcast seed, fertilizer and lime (local farm seed stores are a good source of what works in your area)
7. Lightly cover unless planting depth is 1/4" otherwise, don't cover
8. Reseed any bare spots.

Trying to time it is the hard part in FL

Have no experience with so much sand nor Sunn Hemp. Sounds like Jeff knows Sunn Hemp,l and skipper has some good general recommendations.

Noticed your trees have "mulch vulcanos". The mulch should not be so high nor cover the collar of the tree. Not sure about whether you amend or not when planting trees there. Probably have to amend where the drip area will eventually go to.

Could not understand a word you said. I've poor hearing.

Ralph

Ive been told both ways, some say not up against the trunk with the mulch, others have been using it as I have with no ill affects. I amend the soil with 50% compost/wood chips and top dress with cow manure.

Watched your video and that sure gives a good sense of the property. I had to reclaim my own land after a flood, and have some hints for you. Some I did and some I wish I had.....

One hint that always works is to find out who your County Agricultural Extension Agent is - not the master gardener, there is often one of those. But what you want is the Ag scientist that the local farmers and especially the hay growers talk to. Most counties have one and it's a free service. Ours has an office at the county fairgrounds. Get to know him or her and get set up with some soil and water testing. It costs nothing, and also hooks you up with the local Ag college - another good source.

If you are looking at rye and hemp it sounds to me that you want hay more than grass, and truth is that some types of mowed hay makes pretty good grass. Plus more information is available on hays than on lawn grasses.

After the Ag agent tests you can "amend the chemistry" of the topsoil to their recommended values to make the soil favorable or at least neutral for planting. That takes some tilling and costs real dollars but I will guarantee that at the end of the growing season you will come out ahead. And the benefits continue. Particularly so where you are surrounded by that handy slope which will contain you good soil. I've got a feeling those slopes are going to be your friends.

BTW, did you know that you can "mulch" slopes with rocks? Not that you seem to have any spare rocks, but rocks retain moisture and nutrients underneath. You may not want rocks on the flat ground, but rocks are particularly good for establishing trees on a slope. If you put on your "farmer's eyes" and look at the wild land around you may see what I'm trying to say.

Along about 15:45 in your video I see some really nice volunteer or wild grass there. There is often someone in the Ag office who specializes in grass identification. If I had a stand of nice volunteer thick grass like that I'd want to know more about it. At least get an idea of what type of grass family it belongs to. You may have the right answer to your hay or grass question right there already on your land.

Good luck,
rScotty

Ive had them out to the property, he suggested the sun hemp and many other things. Im not concerned with a ground cover at this point, when I am I am going to consider legume peanuts. Thanks for the other comments.

 

[rScotty]

Our situation is different from some in that we had to start over after a flood stripped all the organics from the soil and left behind a lot of sand and gravel.

At the time I didn't realize what had happened, nor what it meant. Fast forward 7 years, and things are finally starting to grow.

I know now that I would have been ahead if I had done it differently. In hindsight I should not have bothered to plant anything other than a basic hand-thrown cover - legumes & wild grasses, or nothing at all for the first season or two. But I wanted to see something growing while that time I really should have been putting effort into amending the soil chemistry and tilling in fertilizer, and organics.....not growing, just preparing the ground.
rScotty