planning stages for a grapple

   / planning stages for a grapple #21  
just an update i called the place near my house that does waterjet work and they charge 140 per hour. i'm thinking i'll just cut it out with a torch, i also called and got a quote on plate steel(A36) 1/2" is $385 and 3/8 is $290 that didn't seem really bad to me. I was thinking about going with the 3/8 to save money and weight but i'm scared it won't be thick enough

I stopped by a waterjet place by me yesterday. They charge $2/minute = $120/hour so your place isn't much different. He said that they could cut approximately 4 linear inches per minute for 1/2" steel. But then he got confused about that rate and blamed it on relying too much on the computer to calculate the cutting times. :confused2:
 
   / planning stages for a grapple #22  
Hello Kacole, I'm just down the road in Greenville and running a similar tractor, a M 6800. Had my grapple for 5 years and used it a tremendous amount. My bucket hasn't been used since I got the grapple. I would ask you several things. First, what do you plan to do with it ? Heres what I do most.

1. Clean up chainsaw debris. I maintain miles of woods roads that are constantly growing in. I wald along the roads with a pole chainsaw, fell saplings and limbs right into the roadway, and then use my grapple to scoop them up. I drive forward slowly pushing as I go, and collect a pile bigger than the tractor. Then I either push it aside into a pile or pick it up and carry it to a pile. This works great. I have a 48" Markham heavy duty with 1/2" main tines

2. Clear land---I push over small trees (up to 6") and other undergrowth along the river and pick them up and create piles. Now here is where you need to consider your width. My 48" will pick up anything the 72" will. Even though it it engages the ground on a 48" swath, it collect limbs over a much wider path as the limbs tend to grab each other. But my 48" will out dig a wider one, hands down. I often pluck out trees by the root balls, by dipping my tines under it, driving forward, and curling up. I could not do this with a wider one as easliy. So if you want to clear land and uproot trees, go narrower. This is very important. Its kinda like a shovel. If you dig up a tree, you use a pointed shovel, not a wide snow shovel. So dont be afraid of a narrow grapple. It digs way better and picks up just as good as a wider one. It also would be ligher and less expensive to build.
 

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   / planning stages for a grapple
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Hello Kacole, I'm just down the road in Greenville and running a similar tractor, a M 6800. Had my grapple for 5 years and used it a tremendous amount. My bucket hasn't been used since I got the grapple. I would ask you several things. First, what do you plan to do with it ? Heres what I do most.

1. Clean up chainsaw debris. I maintain miles of woods roads that are constantly growing in. I wald along the roads with a pole chainsaw, fell saplings and limbs right into the roadway, and then use my grapple to scoop them up. I drive forward slowly pushing as I go, and collect a pile bigger than the tractor. Then I either push it aside into a pile or pick it up and carry it to a pile. This works great. I have a 48" Markham heavy duty with 1/2" main tines

2. Clear land---I push over small trees (up to 6") and other undergrowth along the river and pick them up and create piles. Now here is where you need to consider your width. My 48" will pick up anything the 72" will. Even though it it engages the ground on a 48" swath, it collect limbs over a much wider path as the limbs tend to grab each other. But my 48" will out dig a wider one, hands down. I often pluck out trees by the root balls, by dipping my tines under it, driving forward, and curling up. I could not do this with a wider one as easliy. So if you want to clear land and uproot trees, go narrower. This is very important. Its kinda like a shovel. If you dig up a tree, you use a pointed shovel, not a wide snow shovel. So dont be afraid of a narrow grapple. It digs way better and picks up just as good as a wider one. It also would be ligher and less expensive to build.

that sounds like some great advice and makes perfect sense. I just bought 30 acres that is nothing but small trees (most 4"-5") and undergrowth very thick. i plan on trying to clear it off a little at a time. I would be using it similar to you moving brush around. I want to be able to pick up larger trees to be cut for firewood. Would you rather have 2 lids on your grapple? or you happy with one? I hear a lot of people brag on 2 lids. Ive never used a grapple but realize that they will be handy.
 
   / planning stages for a grapple
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I also want to be able to stick the tines underground and use it to get the roots just below the surface
 
   / planning stages for a grapple #25  
Hello Kacole, I'm just down the road in Greenville and running a similar tractor, a M 6800. Had my grapple for 5 years and used it a tremendous amount. My bucket hasn't been used since I got the grapple. I would ask you several things. First, what do you plan to do with it ? Heres what I do most.

1. Clean up chainsaw debris. I maintain miles of woods roads that are constantly growing in. I wald along the roads with a pole chainsaw, fell saplings and limbs right into the roadway, and then use my grapple to scoop them up. I drive forward slowly pushing as I go, and collect a pile bigger than the tractor. Then I either push it aside into a pile or pick it up and carry it to a pile. This works great. I have a 48" Markham heavy duty with 1/2" main tines

2. Clear land---I push over small trees (up to 6") and other undergrowth along the river and pick them up and create piles. Now here is where you need to consider your width. My 48" will pick up anything the 72" will. Even though it it engages the ground on a 48" swath, it collect limbs over a much wider path as the limbs tend to grab each other. But my 48" will out dig a wider one, hands down. I often pluck out trees by the root balls, by dipping my tines under it, driving forward, and curling up. I could not do this with a wider one as easliy. So if you want to clear land and uproot trees, go narrower. This is very important. Its kinda like a shovel. If you dig up a tree, you use a pointed shovel, not a wide snow shovel. So dont be afraid of a narrow grapple. It digs way better and picks up just as good as a wider one. It also would be ligher and less expensive to build.

Great advice. I too, was considering a 72" grapple purchase. 48" sounds like the perfect size now.
 
   / planning stages for a grapple #26  
Hello Kacole, I'm just down the road in Greenville and running a similar tractor, a M 6800. Had my grapple for 5 years and used it a tremendous amount. My bucket hasn't been used since I got the grapple. I would ask you several things. First, what do you plan to do with it ? Heres what I do most.

1. Clean up chainsaw debris. I maintain miles of woods roads that are constantly growing in. I wald along the roads with a pole chainsaw, fell saplings and limbs right into the roadway, and then use my grapple to scoop them up. I drive forward slowly pushing as I go, and collect a pile bigger than the tractor. Then I either push it aside into a pile or pick it up and carry it to a pile. This works great. I have a 48" Markham heavy duty with 1/2" main tines

2. Clear land---I push over small trees (up to 6") and other undergrowth along the river and pick them up and create piles. Now here is where you need to consider your width. My 48" will pick up anything the 72" will. Even though it it engages the ground on a 48" swath, it collect limbs over a much wider path as the limbs tend to grab each other. But my 48" will out dig a wider one, hands down. I often pluck out trees by the root balls, by dipping my tines under it, driving forward, and curling up. I could not do this with a wider one as easliy. So if you want to clear land and uproot trees, go narrower. This is very important. Its kinda like a shovel. If you dig up a tree, you use a pointed shovel, not a wide snow shovel. So dont be afraid of a narrow grapple. It digs way better and picks up just as good as a wider one. It also would be ligher and less expensive to build.

Great advice. I too, was considering a 72" grapple purchase. 48" sounds like the perfect size now.
 
   / planning stages for a grapple #27  
Great advice. I too, was considering a 72" grapple purchase. 48" sounds like the perfect size now.

That makes a lot of sense doesn't it? I think I will look at the 48" also.

HJCtractor, what kind of grapple is that? It looks like a good one, could you post a pic of the tines please? Thanks
 
   / planning stages for a grapple #28  
Those of you that are considering having a grapple cut on a waterjet you might want to look into a plasma table. It should be a lot cheaper. I'm not sure what the cost of this would have been as I had a customer cut it for me but I think he said it was about a 10 minute cut in 3/8. It is a lot smaller than you are talking but a waterjet is much slower and much more costly to operate than a plasma. The cuts came out great and no cleanup was needed.
IMG_20140226_164826834.jpggrapple2.jpg
 
   / planning stages for a grapple #29  
HCJtractor, just curious but how wide is the top part of the grapple with the bottom being 48 inches wide? Thank you, Stanley
 
   / planning stages for a grapple #30  
HCJtractor, just curious but how wide is the top part of the grapple with the bottom being 48 inches wide? Thank you, Stanley
i
I'll measure but I'll guess 18 inches. The grapple was bought from Markham welding in North Carolina but I think they're out of business , One upper thumb does just fine it grips whatever you scoop up. Just like a human hand. One thumb is all you need. And uses fewer hoses to get caught up. Generally a load of limbs or plucked out root ball is held just fine. And a large trunk also is held but of course cut it to a reasonable length (say 8 feet ) to reduce possible twisting . Also picks up large rocks. I use a box blade on the back to complement the grapple to scoop up what the grapple misses and level out the dirt.

Two cautions. I use it like a dozer so it does beat up the tractor. It's wise to build a grill guard to protect the grill and hood from limbs. When pushing big piles, it's hard to see any that can poke through. Don't ask how I know this ! And I have a standard clutch. Pushing down trees and uprooting things is hard on the clutch. Found that out too. But for clearing land of smaller trees, privit hedge, etc , it works great. And is fun. Sometimes even use the teeth to " plow " new food plots when I don't have a disc handy.

I've even dug up bigger trees by digging around them to break up the roots so I can eventually push it over. Often I hit the tree high with the grapple and lift my whole front end off the ground to use the weight to push it over. Of course this is not what a tractor is made for but it will work . A hardwood tree of 6 inches or less can be tackled. And it also depends on the species of tree and root depth. But we clear land and lanes regularly for new food plots.

Also when I'm lazy, I'll even grapple my. 8 foot disc harrow and lift if on my trailer with out even bothering to use a strap or chain. Just grab it and lift.
 

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