New property has rutted tire tracks drive come in here and educate me on what to do

[MechanicalGuy]

We had a water problem and water was flowing down the drive when it rained. That has been taken care of with a culvert. Now we have pooling in the tire tracks. We can't even think of driving on it when it's wet because the tires will sink down badly and rut up deeply into the clay soil. What has to be done to build up a road bed? Does crush and run need to be laid down and then 1" gravel on top of that? Can I build it up with more dirt and then put gravel on top?

I'm not really looking to do this several times, and this long drive will be expensive at $20.00/ton for crush and run $21.50/ton for 1" gravel. I have a gravel company very close and access to a 10ton dump truck. Tell me what you know?!

 

[MF RED in MT]

A high quality "Road Mix" has worked for me, and they use it on the roads in our area. It's usually about $250 - $300 for a full dump truck load delivered.

I've even used it for the floor in the wife's greenhouse, once it gets wet and binds together, it seems like concrete.

I don't know what your soil is like, and think some soils could just take it in and not have a drive able base.

Hope someone in your area has a good idea for you.

Good luck, KC

 

[LouNY]

Highway fabric and about 4" of crusher run or gravel.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

thanks for the ideas guys. I'd never heard of either.

 

[s219]

For mud I like to put down #3 or screened crushed concrete (about the size of golfballs, no fines). Then crusher run over the top. If you can afford geotextile fabric underneath the #3, even better.

I would never put crusher run directly over muddy low spots like that. It's just going to sink in and mix with the mud and water, and that is the anatomy of a future pothole. Always go with fabric, #3, then crusher run.

 

[Egon]

Start by shaping & grading & compacting your present road. You want it to shed water and have ditches to allow runoff. Follow up with well graded crushed & compacted gravel.

Just basic road construction procedure! ( drainage and compaction)

 

[ruffdog]

Any drive will need a good base and every property is different. If you have a good mix of sand/gravel/rock near the surface, it will support what you put on it. If all you have is dirt/clay, your gravel will be pushed down into it and you will be no better than you are now. I have no good base here and so I had to create it. A 6-way dozer 1 ft of topsoil and filled it with 4" crushed rock and vibro-rolled so it was about flush to ground level. Then I covered with 3/4" crushed or crusher run. Even when the frost is leaving the ground and everything is gooey, the drive will support a truck because it has a base. Take a hand post hole digger and dig a hole next to the drive or even on the drive to find out what you have. Even pounding a metal post will tell you something.

 

[old and tired]

To me, it doesn't look like that road is all that soft. There is gravel in the foreground. 4" of crusher run, tailgated out by the dump truck. If the photo is all you have, maybe two truck loads and your road should be higher than the grass.

If it is undriveable because of mud, there is -2" crusher run (2" rocks) then top with just regular Crusher Run. I don't think there is any need for 1" rock at all....

 

[zzvyb6]

Just move your "two track" over 4 feet and save yourself some trouble. What I did for my driveway was to go with 9' by 800' concrete. 4-1/2" thick, 6 bag with steel. That's the best fix. Looks nice in aerial photos, too. Before that is was 21AA every few years followed by crushed asphalt. Occasionally tuned up with my 3 point rototiller in the spring. Finally had enough of that situation.

 

[Sonny580]

Road pack white rock here. spread it and wet it it and pack it. do it in layers and build up from there.