MF1240 Stuck Fast in 4 Wheel Drive

[Looking Up!]

I’ve been a lurker reviewing and learning from forum posts on various tractor topics on this website for some time. But it's time to ask for specific recommendations and input to try and freeup my MF1240 tractor (650 hours) stuck fast in 4 wheel drive at the shift lever entry into transmission housing (shift linkage itself is quite free/operable).
Previously using the FEL to unweight the front axle, driving straight forward/backward, sometimes manipulating PTO lever & solenoid switch worked. The tractor is now lifted off ground at the axles to minimize any driveline tension/binding. Various attempts in different gears/forward-reverse/turning front wheels different directions/manipulating PTO lever & solenoid switch have not made any difference. It has always been a little hard to shift out of 4WD, but not seemingly bound up. Fluid levels fine. Suggestions? Thanks in advance!

 

[Harry in Ky]

I think what you have here is probably not a major problem, parts or expense wise. I suspect though, that you'll have get "down and dirty" with it before you're done.

I'm guessing the problem is mainly rust, crud, you name it buildup between the shaft (shift lever entry into transmission housing) as you put it, and the housing bore it fits through. Fortunately, it looks like you can remove the whole unit from the case by removing just the four bolts. The business end of the shaft looks like it wouldn't be too bad to slip back into place re engaging with the shift collar inside.

Once that's off you can deal with whatever the issue is, much easier than on the tractor.

 

[Looking Up!]

Thanks for the very prompt reply! The area about that shaft is very clean as it’s fairly high in the scheme of things and shaft itself comes to directly the transaxle housing (and the cows, my “crappers” were sold when I headed south years ago to volunteer in MX, maybe get some next year). I have pondered another similar post by another tractor site in which pressure (by mild/moderate tapping with a hammer) was applied to force the lever into position. I’m afraid to shear gear teeth with anything too vigorous. I plan to try lever shaft rotation along with with some driveshaft rotation by hand turning the rear tire. Failing that - I had thought about removing the shaft attachment (the four bolts) provided it’s a externally serviceable point as I'd hate to have to split the tractor to retrieve some parts dropped into the transaxle with some mowing sorely needed now as fire season coming along.
I have attempted to attached the files from an Iseki TK527 which is similar to the MF1240 show the area in question. From Figure 48 it appears that I could remove the (#1) housing, maybe get an internal look around (where’s that borescope?), check the (#2) spring. It should be educational in any event. More to follow...

 

[Harry in Ky]

That does look like the same package. I'm still betting the problem is the fit of the shaft through the support housing. That assembly should come off (after draining the oil) with no fear of anything internal falling out of place. You can then work on getting it apart, cleaned, lubed, etc on the bench and not fighting it under the tractor. Once you have it off, I think you will find you have no need for a scope.

 

[repete]

I will start with the obvious. Do you regularly change your transmission fluid? I see you checked the fluid level but is it clean lubricating fluid?

 

[Looking Up!]

Yes, this thing has lead a pretty nice life with regular service and nothing has suggested ant powertrain issues until now. I'll have my son assist me with some noninvasive efforts this morning. The need to mow will forgo any further repair efforts at this time. But I don’t want to be like my farmer friend from our Bible study group whose New Holland’s has been stuck in 4WD for “years.” I’ll be back with an update. Appreciate the suggestions!