Massey GC 1710 slow hydralics in the cold

[Langanobob]

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The obvious starting point is to go to a low-viscosity hydraulic fluid. Check with your dealer to see if there is any reason not to run low viscosity fluid year-round. Only if that fails would I get into potential trouble causers. What matters is viscosity, not whether it is synthetic. Just like motor oil there SHOULD be multi-viscosity hydraulic fluid that does not get so thick at cold temperatures.

Don’t want to start a typical oil thread argument, but actually, it does matter whether it’s a synthetic. If you’re having cold temperature problems a true synthetic oil will flow better at extremely low temperatures and also have a higher viscosity index so that at high temperatures it won’t thin out nearly as much as a non-synthetic oil. If you find a non-synthetic oil that flows well at extremely low temperatures it will be way too thin when it gets hot. You’d have to change it out in the spring and that would end up costing a lot more than just buying expensive synthetic in the first place. In my opinion.

 

[DMW]

A bit of history of my GC2300 . Hydro filter ruptured on a cold winter startup. 35 hrs on the factory fill hydro oil. 50 hour service done early by dealer with a "dealer recommended" oil. IIRC at 120 hours ( 2yrs later) the fluid was so contaminated with water that valves started freezing. Looked almost like chocolate milk. Changed it out myself with Petro-Canada Duratran Synthetic. Just did the 500 hour change this fall, and the oil still looked really good after 8 years in the GC. I believe the Kubota Premium UDT was a repackaged Duratran Semi-Synthetic. It may still be. That is why I recommended it. Front axle uses the same fluid. Full synthetics cost has been negligible when compared to the longevity of the fluid, and the easier operation in extreme temperatures.

My tractor lived under tarp for a few years, this may have contributed to the water contamination. Keep the tarp tight, or place a softener underneath, so if a strong wind starts the tarp flapping , it doesn't rub off the paint.

Only place a hydro heater so that it cannot be damaged. If you don't have guarding to protect it, it will not last long. Running synthetics with a battery tender and block heater should be all you need.

just some guy on the internet.

 

[airbiscuit]

I had a New Holland TC21D that had slow hydraulics when it was very cold. I don't disagree with the other posts that suggest synthetic hydraulic fluid. I didn't do that but I did put on a new hydraulic filter which helped, and found that things loosened up better when I had the hydro speed range in H or L while the engine was warming up. If I had it in neutral it wasn't spinning the transmission and warming up the fluid.

 

[ray66v]

While I believe in the synthetic fluid, if you read and compare the specifications, it really doesn't become a big factor until temperatures get below -20F.

So, just changing to synthetic oil, it isn't going to end all your problems. The proper warm up time is important.

I use a silicone pad heater on the transmission. They are not expensive, and easy to install. Amazon.com: Proheat Heavy Duty Fluid Reservoir Heater Model 154-22 (125 Watts, .5 Amp, 22 Volts) Ideal for Oil Pans up to 1 Gallon of Lube (3.5 Litres) and up to 1 Gallons of Hydraulic Oil: Automotive



It is a small heater. So, it is not an issue leaving it plugged in for long periods of time. It is unable to "heat" that much oil. But, it does keep it from getting cold soaked.

I plug mine in a few days before a forecast storm.

 

[AxleHub]

For those of us dealing with cold and colder still LOL.

Well I guess there is never an end to learning when you get a tractor involved. Here are a few things I've learned in the last 3 years about dealing with cold cold (-10 F or lower).

1. Less than a year ago I was at a large dealer (mine) and they had a parts sale going and I was going to buy a pail of Hydro fluid to have available for future needs. I intended to get Kubota UDT (my dealer is both Kubota and Massey) - and I got lucky and caught a senior tech in the aisle and near the Hydro display area. I was going to get the Kubota product because I knew it was good quality but synthetic - and the tech agreed - but it was substantially higher priced too. I was comparing the AGCO labelling with the Kubota UDT labelling and I noticed something odd - that surprised the tech also. AGCO's hydro fluid had different labelling on the 5 gallon pails than did their 1 gallon and 2 gallon jugs. He was really surprised and it turns out at the time the 5 gallon pails had just been ordered in and displayed. They had the synthetic blend properties just as Kubota's do (where as the 1 and 2 gallon jugs of AGCO still were non-synthetic). So I bought the new AGCO product at the time but priced at the non-synthetic pricing. The tech also indicated a couple advantages that the AGCO product has in terms of "lubricant cling". In other words its "numbers" show a better wear protection and viscosity ratings range (he was pretty technical about it LOL). So I started using the new AGCO product and noticed my hydraulic stiffness is considerably reduced in our Western Wisconsin temps (30 degrees F down to 10 F down to 0 F down to -15 F).

2. Next - last spring I went to a Mobil Diesel Engine Full Synthetic 5 w 40 that I really like. Its reviews are excellent - but it is often on rebate and I buy gallon jugs for net $ 9.99 plus tax. Then I found my Dealer's parts sale - ends up with very reasonable pricing on Agco oil filters - so I bought them for the same price as WIX. My point is - my tractor sits outside - so at these prices - I can change my engine oil each early spring so condensation is eliminated right after winter's ugly temps.

3. I found that when I start up the engine after using my engine block heater - I start moving the 3pt. up/down first - for several minutes before ever moving the fel up and down. It appears that the rear hydro movement acts like a pre warmer to reduce the strain on the fel hydraulics and hastens warming or issues with hydro filter issues. The tractor doesn't move till both rear lift and fel hydraulics have been "excercised" LOL. As a result I don't get any hydro whine and speed of fel motion is much improved.

4. Engine block heater may be on 30 minutes to an hour depending on how cold it is. Engine startup warmup is usually 10 minutes to 25 minutes depending on winter temps. Hydraulics "exercise" is normally 5 minutes to 15 minutes (during engine warmup and depending on temps).

5. I keep the tractor on the south side during winter so it gets some "pre-warming" from sun. I use an XL motorcycle cover rather than any tarps - because motorcycle covers are designed and shaped not to scratch and are UV treated. Also the windshield part works great when you reverse the cover direction so my seat is where the windshield part would be on a motorcycle. I pull the cover off a couple hours before warm up (if its sunny).

6. Last but not least - I use a foam seat pad (like for kneeling or bleachers) that goes on my seat - so I don't get cold or damp from snow on my least protected area LOL.

Now I just gotten get some mirrors rigged up LOL.