Loose Steering Problem Solved

[npalen]

The steering was getting loose on my 1987 Kubota B9200 FWA and it would tend to wander a bit (quite a bit) on the road. I had adjusted the play in the steering box which didn't seem to help much.
Jacked the front of the tractor and saw that the front axle was moving a lot both front to back as well as pivoting laterally when turning the steering wheel back and forth.
So pulled the main pivot main (item 160 in the attached) and saw that is was worn considerably. I figured the bushings (item 30) were worn as well and would have to replace them along with the pin.
Prices don't look too bad but decided to make and install a new pin before ordering the replacement bushings. What I found is that the bushings showed virtually no wear. The new pin really tightened up the front end.
I never realized it at the time but tightening the castle nut (item 180) would have probably eliminated the front to back movement but not the lateral pivoting.
So I would recommend anyone with a loose steering issue on an older tractor to check into this. The tractor has a loader and I'm sure that adds considerably to the front axle wear over time.
Incidentally, the pin and bushings are lubricated by the 90W oil in the front differential thus the reason for the o-rings on the bushings.

 

[PILOON]

On my tractor they provided a zerk to lube that pivot point, however the location and access is such that previous owner neglected to lube.
So what I did is add an extension to the side where it is accessible without crawling under the tractor.
Zerk was 1/8 NPT so an elbow and 1/8 pipe made mod easy to do. I could also have used 1/8 pressure hose I guess.
Anyhow lubing is now an easy chore and my clothing thanks me.

Note that this joint is possibly the hardest working on a tractor.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The steering was getting loose on my 1987 Kubota B9200 FWA and it would tend to wander a bit (quite a bit) on the road. I had adjusted the play in the steering box which didn't seem to help much.
Jacked the front of the tractor and saw that the front axle was moving a lot both front to back as well as pivoting laterally when turning the steering wheel back and forth.
So pulled the main pivot main (item 160 in the attached) and saw that is was worn considerably. I figured the bushings (item 30) were worn as well and would have to replace them along with the pin.
Prices don't look too bad but decided to make and install a new pin before ordering the replacement bushings. What I found is that the bushings showed virtually no wear. The new pin really tightened up the front end.
I never realized it at the time but tightening the castle nut (item 180) would have probably eliminated the front to back movement but not the lateral pivoting.
So I would recommend anyone with a loose steering issue on an older tractor to check into this. The tractor has a loader and I'm sure that adds considerably to the front axle wear over time.
Incidentally, the pin and bushings are lubricated by the 90W oil in the front differential thus the reason for the o-rings on the bushings.

Thanks for posting. I too have a B9200.

Im surprised with the excessive play that it was not leaking some gear oil. ... Just curious. Mine [no loader] is still pretty good. Just enuf seepage to collect dust.​

It appears on mine that the pivot points for the axle are fixed in the frame. So too much squeeze by tightening the castle nut may be a problem. No shims available to eliminate f/b play? None shown. :confused3:

 

[npalen]

The pivot pin is up high enough that it probably gets only splash lube off of the differential. The wear in the pin was only a few thou so the o-rings could easily contain the gear lube. A few thou in a short distance equates to a lot of movement out at the axle ends, however.
The pivot pin is constrained from rotation at the front end. It floats axially at the front end and the castle nut pulls any slack to the rear. The repair manual calls for only seven ft. lbs of torque on the nut which removes any axial slack and then is constrained by the keeper pin.
Edit: If I had it to do over again, I would first remove the axial play by tightening the castle nut. That pulls the axle back against the rear frame member which, I assume, is intended to take the thrust during normal operation. There is a keeper plate at the front end of the pivot bolt that prevents rotation. By removing that plate (two nuts) you can rotate the pivot bolt while holding the castle nut at the rear with a 24 mm wrench.

 

[npalen]

I'm very happy to report, after my first test run today, that the old girl tracks straight down the road now. Can even let go of the steering wheel at 15 MPH! WooHoo!