OJ Norway
Member
Hi
I have just replaced the clutch disc, clutch cover, pilot bearing and the release bearing. On my tractor, the release bearing was making a lot of highfrekvense noise, when i was clutching, before it broke down. Nothing happend when i pressed the clutch pedal. I had to start it in gear to get it inside the garage.
Ordering parts:
I checked the price in Norway - more than 1000$ for the an original kit - so it was forum and Ebaytime
I first order clutchplate , cover and release bearing(throghout bearing) from bestfarm parts.
disc CDI 1427 (this has 18 splines, and an outer diameter of 181 mm)
throw out TOI 1416
pressure plate PPI 2400
Total price with USshipping $234
I wanted all the parts to be correct, before i opened the tractor. Unfortunate there seems to be some Isekis with a inputshaft with 13 splines, and this confused me a bit. I talked to some dealers, but they could not tell for sure.
Reordering parts.
Ordered from JeffCube on ebay.
A little bit more expensive, but looked more solid build.
JeffCubes clutch with 4 springs.
They both had 18 splines and an outer diameter of 181 mm - And they both fits my Iseki tx 2140f
The pilot bearing
Ordered from best parts, but they have not sent it yet.
Some seaching showed it was used in other vehicles. Bought this at Biltema art no. 41-410. It was just some dollars. Outer diameter 30mm, inner diameter 15 mm, and 9 mm thick. Standard stuff
The splitting
You just need a simple hoist, a brick and some woodparts. some good wrenches, 17 and 19 mm, some smaller wrenches, and socket tool set, and a cheap balljoint separator.
In my case i had to remove to cab, with watertubes to the heater.
removed the battery and tank, and the bracket under. The electrical cords on left side only (starter, generator). And just the front end of the steering rod (see pictures)This was only time we used a special tool- bolljoint separator. 2 hydraulic lines also have to be devided on the left side.
On right side we left the electrical cords. Removed the accelerate rod. Removed one bolt for the sleeve for the front wheel drive
Then split it
Inside, the release bearing was really stuck. Removed the fork( i had already bought one used on ebay) to get out the sleeve with stuck bearing.
We removed the flywheel, to change the pilot bearing. (have no special tool for ball bearings, so we had to do it the hard way)
see pictures of how we used different sockets to remove and insert ball bearing.
The alignment of the clutch plate.
We used a wooden rod. 15-16 mm diameter. sanded it i little, to fit the inner diameter of the pilot bearing. Then some tape, to center the plate on the rod. worked perfect - picture
Be aware of the bolts to fasten the clutch cover, one broke :-(. We got it out, and replaced them all with new.
It was also hard to put it back - geting the inputshaft AND the front wheel rod into the U-joint at the same time. We finally loosen the U-joint, so we could put the body together first.
Hope this will be helpful
OJ - waiting for the snow
I have just replaced the clutch disc, clutch cover, pilot bearing and the release bearing. On my tractor, the release bearing was making a lot of highfrekvense noise, when i was clutching, before it broke down. Nothing happend when i pressed the clutch pedal. I had to start it in gear to get it inside the garage.
Ordering parts:
I checked the price in Norway - more than 1000$ for the an original kit - so it was forum and Ebaytime
I first order clutchplate , cover and release bearing(throghout bearing) from bestfarm parts.
disc CDI 1427 (this has 18 splines, and an outer diameter of 181 mm)
throw out TOI 1416
pressure plate PPI 2400
Total price with USshipping $234
I wanted all the parts to be correct, before i opened the tractor. Unfortunate there seems to be some Isekis with a inputshaft with 13 splines, and this confused me a bit. I talked to some dealers, but they could not tell for sure.
Reordering parts.
Ordered from JeffCube on ebay.
A little bit more expensive, but looked more solid build.
JeffCubes clutch with 4 springs.
They both had 18 splines and an outer diameter of 181 mm - And they both fits my Iseki tx 2140f
The pilot bearing
Ordered from best parts, but they have not sent it yet.
Some seaching showed it was used in other vehicles. Bought this at Biltema art no. 41-410. It was just some dollars. Outer diameter 30mm, inner diameter 15 mm, and 9 mm thick. Standard stuff
The splitting
You just need a simple hoist, a brick and some woodparts. some good wrenches, 17 and 19 mm, some smaller wrenches, and socket tool set, and a cheap balljoint separator.
In my case i had to remove to cab, with watertubes to the heater.
removed the battery and tank, and the bracket under. The electrical cords on left side only (starter, generator). And just the front end of the steering rod (see pictures)This was only time we used a special tool- bolljoint separator. 2 hydraulic lines also have to be devided on the left side.
On right side we left the electrical cords. Removed the accelerate rod. Removed one bolt for the sleeve for the front wheel drive
Then split it
Inside, the release bearing was really stuck. Removed the fork( i had already bought one used on ebay) to get out the sleeve with stuck bearing.
We removed the flywheel, to change the pilot bearing. (have no special tool for ball bearings, so we had to do it the hard way)
see pictures of how we used different sockets to remove and insert ball bearing.
The alignment of the clutch plate.
We used a wooden rod. 15-16 mm diameter. sanded it i little, to fit the inner diameter of the pilot bearing. Then some tape, to center the plate on the rod. worked perfect - picture
Be aware of the bolts to fasten the clutch cover, one broke :-(. We got it out, and replaced them all with new.
It was also hard to put it back - geting the inputshaft AND the front wheel rod into the U-joint at the same time. We finally loosen the U-joint, so we could put the body together first.
Hope this will be helpful
OJ - waiting for the snow