Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide

   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide #1  

OJ Norway

Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2012
Messages
26
Location
Tromsoe, Norway
Tractor
Iseki TX2140f
Hi
I have just replaced the clutch disc, clutch cover, pilot bearing and the release bearing. On my tractor, the release bearing was making a lot of highfrekvense noise, when i was clutching, before it broke down. Nothing happend when i pressed the clutch pedal. I had to start it in gear to get it inside the garage.

Ordering parts:
I checked the price in Norway - more than 1000$ for the an original kit - so it was forum and Ebaytime :)

I first order clutchplate , cover and release bearing(throghout bearing) from bestfarm parts.
disc CDI 1427 (this has 18 splines, and an outer diameter of 181 mm)
throw out TOI 1416
pressure plate PPI 2400
Total price with USshipping $234

I wanted all the parts to be correct, before i opened the tractor. Unfortunate there seems to be some Isekis with a inputshaft with 13 splines, and this confused me a bit. I talked to some dealers, but they could not tell for sure.

Reordering parts.

Ordered from JeffCube on ebay.
A little bit more expensive, but looked more solid build. IMG_1042.jpg
JeffCubes clutch with 4 springs.

They both had 18 splines and an outer diameter of 181 mm - And they both fits my Iseki tx 2140f

The pilot bearing
Ordered from best parts, but they have not sent it yet.
Some seaching showed it was used in other vehicles. Bought this at Biltema :part no. 41-410. It was just some dollars. Outer diameter 30mm, inner diameter 15 mm, and 9 mm thick. Standard stuff :)

The splitting
You just need a simple hoist, a brick and some woodparts. some good wrenches, 17 and 19 mm, some smaller wrenches, and socket tool set, and a cheap balljoint separator.
In my case i had to remove to cab, with watertubes to the heater.
IMG_1091.jpg

removed the battery and tank, and the bracket under. The electrical cords on left side only (starter, generator). And just the front end of the steering rod (see pictures)This was only time we used a special tool- bolljoint separator. 2 hydraulic lines also have to be devided on the left side.
IMG_1112.jpg
On right side we left the electrical cords. Removed the accelerate rod. Removed one bolt for the sleeve for the front wheel drive
Then split it :)
Inside, the release bearing was really stuck. Removed the fork( i had already bought one used on ebay) to get out the sleeve with stuck bearing.
We removed the flywheel, to change the pilot bearing. (have no special tool for ball bearings, so we had to do it the hard way)
see pictures of how we used different sockets to remove and insert ball bearing.

The alignment of the clutch plate.
We used a wooden rod. 15-16 mm diameter. sanded it i little, to fit the inner diameter of the pilot bearing. Then some tape, to center the plate on the rod. worked perfect - picture :)
IMG_1124.jpg

Be aware of the bolts to fasten the clutch cover, one broke :-(. We got it out, and replaced them all with new.
It was also hard to put it back - geting the inputshaft AND the front wheel rod into the U-joint at the same time. We finally loosen the U-joint, so we could put the body together first.
IMG_1101.jpgIMG_1103.jpgIMG_1105.jpgIMG_1106.jpgIMG_1118.jpg

Hope this will be helpful
OJ - waiting for the snow :)
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide
  • Thread Starter
#2  
image-2084351497.jpg

Secured the electrical wires with computercord collectors :)

Just tried the little lady. She is soooo smooth on the clutch. Before it was always a jolt when the clutch connected - today perfect

Ps - remember too bleed the fuelline after reinstalling the fueltank , on both places. Drained the battery earlier today, trying to start the little lady

Also changed the transparent tube on the tank, so now i can see how much diesel is left :)

Thats it for tonight
OJ
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide #3  
This is incredible!! Thank you so much for posting all of the photos, and the instructions! I am definitely going to use this as my guide! Just curious, did someone modify the hydraulic plow for the front, or was that made for your tractor? Each time I use my tractor, the more I love it. They are little tanks, and I am always finding something that impresses me about the tractor. I was using a middle buster the other day(single plow) on the back to dig a channel for a board surrounding my chicken coupe yard, and I was not paying attention in front of the tractor, and I climbed straight up a huge boulder with my right front tire while in 4WD! Glad that the new clutch came out so well, and it should be good for another 20+ years now!
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks Mitch
Had to add it all up - so we have somewhere to go in 20 years :)
I am no mechanic, nor is the friend that helped me. Just like to fix things. He told me the smart way to get bearings in and out, using sockets of different size. So this is for all DIY isekiowners, without a lot of special tools.
I have 2 snowplows (and a blade) for the tractor, one of them is modified to fit on front and rear. The other just front. This was done by the guy i bought it from. This tractor was sold 30 years by a norwegian firm, customizing minitractors, using scandinavian parts. From pictures it looks a little different than UK or US front brachets. That is all i know so far about hydraulics :) will need some help from the forum to understand the basic and standards of connections, splitting hydraulic lines for more outputs - i want to make a trolley with hydraulic lift
I also got a bag of parts when i bought her - "this is the front pto, some parts are missing" I have now got all the parts, and there will soon be an ultimate pto guide with pictures.

Well this is me talking and dreaming, never knowing when to stop
OJ
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide
  • Thread Starter
#5  
image-2941343246.jpg

The only special tool i used. This for disconnecting the balljoint on the steering rod
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide #6  
I finally replaced my clutch today! It works great, and it was quite a surprise to see the 30 year old clutch. The fingers were worn down completely. It was no wonder I was having such bad issues. I was worried that I was going to wreck my gears, so I finally bit the bullet, and it done.. It is really nice to be able to shift, and not have the gears grind! It only took me a year to do it! Thanks again, for posting this guide!

This is what was left of my clutch:
319972d1369800372-iseki-tx2140f-ultimate-clutch-replacement-img_1516.jpg
319973d1369800382-iseki-tx2140f-ultimate-clutch-replacement-img_1519.jpg

IMG_1516.JPGIMG_1519.JPG
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide #7  
Ouch. I heard that happens but haven't seen it yet. How was the throw-out bearing? I'm assuming that must have been bad. If the bearing was good I wouldn't think the fingers would wear down that bad unless the clutch was "rode" a lot.
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Hi there Mitch. Long time :)
Good to hear u finally had the clutch replaced, and i see your plate was badly worn too.
Did u have some unexpected problems, or did it go smooth?
OJ
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Hi there Beaver. There wasnt much left of the throw-out bearing. It didnt turn at all. I had ordered the pilot bearing from the states, but it didnt come in time. Fortunately i could get the same ballbearing at a local carpartstore.
 
   / Iseki TX2140f The ultimate clutch replacement guide #10  
Right guys i'm going to replace my clutch it appears so can you advise that I should replace all these parts or not - Clutch Plate, Cover, Release bearing (Throwout bearing),Disc, Pressure plate and Pilot Bearing

If there's anything else whilst it's split I would be grateful again for your kind advice
 
 
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