Installing a hydraulic cylinder/ram for angle of 48" snowblade

[wdchyd]

I am somewhat confused. All the setups I have seen where they use 2 single action rams, they tie one end of each ram into each side of a control lever, so it takes the same control setup as a 1 double acting ram.
Is your plow setup for 2 single acting rams?

Aaron Z

Right Aczlan about the same 4-way valve spool configuration, they are the same valve.....only thing is a cushion valve (if added) for "Shock Loads" doesn't work with one D/A cylinder as the displacement is different for each side of the cyl....although I didn't see where the OP mentions a cushion valve.....

 

[ampa]

<> Hi SpudHauler......your snowblade and "A" frame is very close to the one I have except yours looks more rebust (stronger built).....I too was also wonderin' about the length of the cylinder /ram I bought @ PRINCESS AUTO just yesterday....it was on sale as was the first one I bought for raisin' and lowerin' the blade..it's also a bit of an over kill as my blade moves from side to side very easy...but bein' on a tight government pention I must cut corners...or should I say save the ol' $$$ somehow....

.....I think I may have that part of it covered anyhow.... as I'll be installin' that....I call a tie rod (thingy) type link...so I will be able to adjust the cylinder/ram somewhat for length... this is just my way of thinkin'....I'm not always right but I do think out loud sometimes...... (I'll inclose a pic of this tie rod part)..I rethreaded both ends for a larger stud....don't ask me why I done that ....Oh' well I'll tell you anyhow

......the reason is..... I assumed these parts since they were made in China were metric...... so I rethreaded them using my standard dies for my own convenience....I really hate the metric system for example... when I'm workin' with things like brass fittings /pipes e.t.c. I do know that most steel pipe threads are standard as I found out when I installed my a block heater on my ISEKI tractor and later found out it used all standard pipe thread fittings on every part of the engine including the cooling system....sorry for my rantin' on here...I get so upset...with the way they do things these days....when I look to find a certain bolt or some kind of fastener...I'd like to ask or look for a standard size instead od of tryin' every metric fastener till I get the proper one...which takes an hour or so instead of a few minutes....most my applications call for 2 1/2"-3 1/" or longer....kind of hard to find metric sizes that long unless you go to a bolt and nut suppy warehouse....and I don't know of one in my area just now....but I guess I'd better soon find a place....anyhow thats my reason

......anyhow another question on your setup...the two large springs at each side of your blade are there to protect the blade from damage and are designed to fold down when the blade hits something solid...I removed the one and only spring my 42" Craftsman and installed a short piece of chain....cause it kept foldin' down everytime it hit something solid even a small chunk or piece of ice ....but thats another story I don't really want to get into ..

......on your setup....are the cylinders/rams connected directly to the blade..or setup in a way to follow the path of deflection when the blade contacts something solid...like a crack in a cement driveway e.t.c. ?.... as always just a little curious..reason I asked this is that my blade if I connect it the same way...it would pull the cylinder/ram down when the blade folded....

.....I do really appreciate your complete interest and patience to my issue here...as this is the correct information I was trying to find out...I was sort of stuck to where and how to connect....on my 48" blade.. I just went down to the garage.....I decieded to use the L side bracket...make up a bracket to bolt to a couple of exsisting lock nut bolts...then weld a bolt type pin to us as a pivot....will this work???....judging by the pic I might not be able to install the tie rod adjustable thingy as the distance between the cylinder and the blade seems too close....maybe have to use a 3 1/2"- 4" size shoulder bolt with proper lock nut/( lock washer won't work...I posted some more pic's of my progress so far......can't help but notice your unique user name...which seems to tell me.... your either from down east (P.E.I. or a truckdriver haulin' spuds(potatoes).... or both ?......."Spud Hauler"<> I really do thank you so very,very much.... take care .....Ampa <> :thumbsup:

 

[ampa]

First pic shows a John Deere with mounted snowplough lift....I liked the concept of this OP fabricated idea...It's a quicker way to easly lower and raise my brand new ATV 48" snowplough....I gave mine a little more over hang on the top boom section....and installed an eyelet type chain hook and a 5/8 short length shoulder bolt through the end of the boom.....

I'm usin a double acting cylinder for raising and lowering the snowplough.....haven't got all my hydraulics together or even 1/3 connected yet. still hung up on a few problems...and still workin' on that issue... but I think when it's altogether... it should work okay......I've never ever messed with hydraualics before.... so this is completely new to me..I also installed the angling double acting cylinder last sunday. so far I've done all this with very little welding mostly bolted together..I do have the angling cylinder bracket and a 1/4" piece to mount the lift cylinder to the boom.... plus a bracket for the cylinder pivot point on the ploughs "A" frame...but thats about it...I'm also a newbie to wire welding..... any comments or thoughts on my setup would sure be much appreciated..I've posted a bunch of pics on the project so far.....Thanks in advance<>Ampa

 

[beenthere]

Looks like you have a FEL on your 4310, so am wondering why you don't use the FEL joystick and the existing FEL outlets to control the raise/lower of the snowplow, and the bucket curl to control the angle right/left of the plow. ?? I do, and it works very well.

I use a conventional snowplow single cyl. to raise (gravity lower), and 2 singles to angle the plow blade.

Here are a couple pics. Maybe it will give you some ideas.

 

[Argosy]

The cylinder needs to attach to the plate with the adjusting holes, not the plow itself for the trip to work without breaking parts.

Weld a stud and bracket off the side of the plate to mount your cylinder, probably from the left frame to the right of the plate from the looks of the setup. If you could return it and get one with a shorter ram and longer stroke it would give you a lot more swing.

 

[ampa]

Hi Argosy....the pic is kinda' on the dark side plus the bracket and "A" frame are painted black as well as the 1/2" plate which is permantly attached to the tractor with 1/2"x 3-1/2" shoulder bolts....so when you veiw the setup it seems to be attached to the tractor when in fact it is attched to where you say it should...I'll be honest....

I did have to ask someone from this TBN forum where to mount a bracket for the cylinder/ram for angling the blade...I need to weld a 1/4" pc. of mild steel to use as a tab to attach the cylinder to the underside of the top boom for the lift....should I just weld this tab directly to this 1-1/2'-x 1-1/2' sqauare tubing.....or should I notch it out a bit with my 4" grinder for this 1/4" tab of mild steel to slide into ? :confused2:....then weld it :confused2:

I'll be only so glad when it's all done and workin' proper......and without outside help..... I really couldn't do this on my own as I've never worked with hydraulics before....there will be mistakes I'm quite certain of this...this is why I'd like to know if and what I'm doin' is the proper route to go...it's very easy to change a design before it's lets say welded...cause if I weld something in the wrong spot....then I have a lot of uneccessary work to undo the mistake... and maybe weakening the "A" frame....I didn't want to modify any original part of the "A" frame...but sometimes one has no choice...Oh' by the way "beenthere"..... is there any reason for usin' two clyinders/rams to usin' one single double acting like the way I'm goin' my reason is to cut the cost of buyin' two when I think one will work fine on my little plough...your plough is much bigger and heavier built than the ATV snowblade I bought...even the cylinder I bought is an overkill.... since I can turn the blade from center then L-R with one finger....anyhow I want all you guys to know I really appreciate the input...and with your help.... as the sayin' goes.....make me a happy camper.....take care<>Ampa <>

 

[SpudHauler]

Ampa,
I wish I could draw you something but can't so we have to explain.

BeenThere's picture shows the pivot points for the blade are lot wider than yours are and that is the same with my plow. So the cylinder that changes the angle is not attached to the blade but rather the mount that pivots and then the blade pivots on that mount. Like if you took the springs off the blade, it would fall on the floor and Beenthere and mine would too. It just that your horizontal pivot the one that lets the blade move left or right is very narrow.

Argosy is right the cylinder has to attach to the pivot plate with all the holes in it and then to the a-arm because you don't want either end of the cylinder on something that pivots ahead or back, like the blade itself when the springs are off, or up or down, like when you lift the whole blade with the other cylinder.

So the picture you have, that shows the angle-cylinder with the pivot bolt in the horizontal is wrong. That end of the angle-cylinder pivot should be pointing up in the vertical position and for that matter the one on the hole-plate, where you would turn the blade by lifting the release and putting it back into another hole to set the angle of the blade, should also be a vertical pivot.

Princess Auto, you must be a fellow Canadian. I'm from PEI. Thus the RTV is called a spud-hauler. That's all we do over here. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[SpudHauler]

If you look at my second picture you will see the end of the long angle-cylinder and that little bolt at the end of the big frame is the blade pivot that lets the blade trip when I hit rocks or other obstacles.

And the 1st picture shows how the angle-cylinder is attached to the a-frame and the pivot plate and that long frame work are one piece so pushing on the end of it turns the blade.

Hope this all helps. You need a buddy there with you for assistance. Just to hold things and test, right!

Remember to just tack weld, test and the weld solid. If you make a mistake it's easy to tear apart and re-do.

I'm not a welder or fabricator, but if you has someone's plow assembly there it might be a big help to let you see how it works.

 

[Argosy]

You need to cut the swing mount bracket off and turn it 90 degrees, probably the easiest would be use what you have and make an 'L' out if it (if it gives you enough clearance) and mount it to the A arm.

Get rid or the rod end and heim joint, use bolts on each end. Weld one to the 'L' bracket, weld the other to the slotted plate. If you draw a center line down the tractor to the pivot pin on the plow, the closer you can weld the bolt to that center line the more swing you will get, especially important with a short stroke cylinder.

You may have to mount the cylinder on the right arm and the bolt on the left of the pivot plate because of the cylinder length. Make sure your plow is 90 degrees to the tractor and the cylinder is at mid stroke. Measure the stroke and center it well. A 1/4" will make a lot of difference in equal angling to each side.

Tack everything up and see how it swings (pull the plugs out of the cylinder, it will swing a lot easier). Loosen the nuts on the eye bolts and simulate tripping the plow and make sure the brackets don't interfere with the cylinder or hoses.

Edit: It doesn't look like there's a lot of space between the top of the A frame arm and the top of the pivot plate. If there isn't you won't need a bracket, just weld the bolt to the arm. You might need a spacer under it to hold the cylinder level but that's easier than bending and welding short little brackets.

 

[wdchyd]

Oh' by the way "beenthere"..... is there any reason for usin' two clyinders/rams to usin' one single double acting like the way I'm goin' my reason is to cut the cost of buyin' two when I think one will work fine on my little plough... <>

There is a reason.....to add one of these when you are plowing and hit a curb/manhole cover/rock ect......https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4019-50-H&catname=.......I mentioned it in an earlier post......If you don't add one then midway thru the winter you'll more than likely be posting a new thread reading "Now my new plow is broke and how to fix it".........