I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL

   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #1  

rsmith02184

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
114
Tractor
JD 4100
hello

i am completely new to tractor owning. i have a JD4100 with FEL (410) and i was using it to move logs and one slipped and hit the hydraulic inlet on the lift piston (sorry, i don't know any of the correct terms, but, it is where the hydraulic line goes into the lift arm and it is threaded).

how can i fix this or do i need to get a new one?

thanks
 
   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #2  
Is the fitting on the hydraulic hose broken or is it the female port that is welded to the cylinder ? The attached pic shows the inlet port on a simple hydraulic cylinder.

If the hose fitting is broke, a repair or replacement will be fairly inexpensive at your local dealer. If its the cylinder port, you'll need to have some welding done.
 

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   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #3  
rsmith,
Is the hydraulic cylinder is a female connection. If it is you might of just broke off the fitting that threads into it. Use an easy out to take out the broken fitting and install a new one.

Ron
 
   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL
  • Thread Starter
#4  
i broke the female port right at the seam where it joins the cylinder.

if i choose to weld it (my father-in-law has a welder) do i have to take it off the FEL to weld it? Do I want to disconnect the hydraulic quick connects from the tractor to the FEL before doing any work on the leak?

thanks
 
   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #5  
I'm not sure what is involved in welding on a hydraulic cylinder. I suggest starting a new thread in the 'parts/repairs' general forum. I would use a subject title something like 'How do I weld a hydraulic cylinder.' You are more likely to get responses if you specify what you need in the subject.Then describe the type of repair that you have listed here. Good luck
 
   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #6  
rsmith,

You will want to extend the cylinder rod all the way out, away from where you are going to weld. Take the hydraulic fittings out in the area you are welding. I would take it off of the machine. It will be easier to handle and it will afford you less of a chance to damage the machine itself.

Ron
 
   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #7  
I had a cylinder fatigue crack last Summer. Took whole tractor to a local Blacksmiths (Welding shop) Unscrew the hyd hoses - welding heat builds pressure - and let a pro weld the crack.

15 mins at his shop and $15.

A new cylinder was $700, Industrial TLB and difficult to remove.

Works good as new.
 

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   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( i broke the female port right at the seam where it joins the cylinder.

if i choose to weld it (my father-in-law has a welder) do i have to take it off the FEL to weld it? Do I want to disconnect the hydraulic quick connects from the tractor to the FEL before doing any work on the leak?

thanks )</font>

Definitely take it off the tractor, I also would take the rod out of the cylinder( you need a little plastic "tool" to do this) to make sure that (1) you can clean the inside of hydraulic oil so as not to contaminate the weld, and (2) to make sure no slag or drips of metal fall into the hole and wreck the seals or damage the piston making a somewhat bad situation worse.

I would really suggest you take the cylinder off the tractor, that is very to do with minimal tools, and take the unit to a local hydraulic shop for this repair. It will be much cheaper than a new cylinder.
 
   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL
  • Thread Starter
#9  
what kind of plastic tool do i need? can i buy it?

thanks
 
   / I broke the hydraulic inlet to my 410 FEL #10  
The little "tool" comes with the cylinder rebuild kit, which includes all the seals. I am not sure if it is available separately or not, but if you go to your dealer, the mechanics may have a couple laying around, I think I might even have one left from when I rebuilt my cylinders last your due to a leak-down problem.
It is a little orange plastic ring you put in the groove at the end of the cylinder, it lets the metal retaining ring slide past the groove so the rod/piston can come out.

If you are going to disassemble it yourself, you may want to get the kit and replace the seals while you have it apart, I think each kit (need one per cylinder) was $16.00 or so.
 
 
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