Hydraulic TopLink Leak

TO_Bud · Jun 23, 2010

Good morning all. Just completed the install of two factory rear remotes and a CCM hydraulic toplink on my TC40D yesterday. Remotes install was pretty straight forward so if anyone is contemplating the maneuver fret not and go for it. While I was in the area of the valves I backed off the jam nut on the 3 pt linkage to get a smoother action (thank you Jinman). I haven't purchased the hydraulic sidelink yet as I want the DPOV and CCM is into hay until October. I do have a problem with the toplink leaking at the banjo fitting closest to the rod end of the cylinder. I'm reluctant to tighten the fitting anymore than it is already. I put a torque wrench on it and it is at least 80 ft lbs. I"m waiting to hear back from Mark from CCM but in the mean time does anyone have some knowledge of the type of bolt and max torque that can be applied. My experience with banjo fittings is auto brake related and those bolts were hollow and would snap if over tightened. Any help guys?

Bud

jinman · Jun 23, 2010

Bud, I think you are correct to ask Mark since he is the expert and may want to just send you a replacement. It would seem to me that a banjo fitting should not take that much torque. Maybe a seal is missing or damaged. Is it flowing a stream or just dripping or seeping?

TO_Bud · Jun 23, 2010

Thanks Jim, I did finally get in touch with Mark and he advised me to pull the bolt to the banjo fitting and flip the brass washers and re-tighten the bolt. He was surprised the bolt was torqued that high and thought that 35 ft lbs would be enough. He said he would send me out some new brass washers if the flip maneuver does not work. I am inclined to believe he will need to send new since they have been crushed to at least 80 lbs already, but he is the master so I will try that first. I'll let you know how it goes.

Bud

TO_Bud · Jun 24, 2010

Update on cylinder leak. I tried the fix of flipping the washers on the banjo fitting per Mark's advice. Still leaked, it may be slowed somewhat but still a runny drip after working the cylinder in/out for 1 min. The washers were not brass but probably aluminum with a rubber o-ring-like seal that was attached to the inner circumference of the washer. Took another day to talk with Mark about it. He is way busy and seemed to be talking with someone each time I called. Once on the phone he is more than helpful and courteous. I told him of the failed washer flip and he is sending out some actual brass washers for me. I also told him I thought that the tube from the DPOCV valve to the outer bango fitting was a tad short. I believe the compression fitting at the DPOCV is pulling the bango slightly off center when it is tightened, causing the leak. Mark is sending out a new tube as well just in case. I'll update when parts arrive.

Bud

TO_Bud · Jul 7, 2010

Still waiting on the new washers from Mark at CCM. Got a little frustrated with the wait so I removed the bango bolt one more time and coated all mating surfaces with Loctite 545, non-fouling, sealant. Let it sit overnight and tried actuating the HTL for a few minutes this morning. So far so good, no leaks. I bought the whole kit from CCM including hoses. The hoses came with straight NPT fittings that threaded into the DPOCV. At full up position on the 3 pt lever control the hoses are very close to the tang for the toplink hook. I suppose I could remove the tang to get more clearance or buy more fittings (angled). I opted to just clock the DPOCV to about 10 degrees off of 90 for the clearance. A simple fix for anyone else that is concerned.

Bud

jinman · Jul 7, 2010

Bud, I'm glad you got the leak stopped. I'm sure Mark doesn't have seals in stock or just overlooked getting your order out to you. For whatever reason, he should have let you know.

TO_Bud · Jul 7, 2010

Well this is their busy season for haying as he states on his site. He sent me the toplink even though he is quite busy with their main function these months so I'm not dismayed with him, just frustrated by the leak. When the washers arrive I will keep them on hand in case the seal fails again.

Bud

beenthere · Jul 7, 2010

TO_Bud said:
.............
I bought the whole kit from CCM including hoses. The hoses came with straight NPT fittings that threaded into the DPOCV. At full up position on the 3 pt lever control the hoses are very close to the tang for the toplink hook. I suppose I could remove the tang to get more clearance or buy more fittings (angled). I opted to just clock the DPOCV to about 10 degrees off of 90 for the clearance. A simple fix for anyone else that is concerned.

Bud

I flipped mine 180 degree to get more clearance, and better hose movement than when they were out the top. Also added 90 degree elbows to make a better fit. Sticking straight up was a definite clearance problem for me. Here is pic using shorter lines too.

TO_Bud · Jul 8, 2010

beenthere said:
I flipped mine 180 degree to get more clearance, and better hose movement than when they were out the top. Also added 90 degree elbows to make a better fit. Sticking straight up was a definite clearance problem for me. Here is pic using shorter lines too.

Looks good beenthere nice and clean.