Hydraulic cylinder leak at bucket on Model 70 loader

[pretendfarmer]

I had talked about this on another thread, but wanted to create a thread about it. As the title says, the cylinder at the bucket is leaking - "passenger" side, hehe. Initially I called a local hydraulics shop and they were backed up and told me they didn't have a seal kit for it. I went ahead and found the seal kit through JD parts website online, then bought it from the dealer. $135 and it was supposed to come with the tool (small orange plastic piece) to remove the rod. It didn't have that and I had already paid for it. The price of this seal kit really rubbed me wrong. Even worse is the fact that John Deere is quoting a price of $1,400 for a replacement cylinder (1.75" bore). It's so obscene that it's gross, IMO.

I started searching for aftermarket cylinders but found out that JD made it to special specs. The bore is 1.75", and the rod is 1 1/8". When I look at aftermarket cylinders, those with a 1.75" bore only have 1" rods, and if I want a 1 1/8" rod I have to go with a 2" bore. The problem with the 2" bore aftermarket cylinders is that they won't fit into the loader frame, they are too wide. So, my question is if a 1" rod will be significantly weaker than 1 1/8" and maybe bend?

You may be asking why I am even talking about new aftermarket cylinders. Well that's because the hydraulic shop wants $400 labor to rebuild mine, which I think is outrageous as well. I can buy 2 brand new cylinders for less, they are just not the exact specs. After installing those, I will rebuild the leaking one and probably just sell the JD ones off, or keep them as backup. What I won't ever be doing is paying that much to a shop or paying that much for a seal kit again. I asked the aftermarket hydraulic shop about their seal kits and they are $25. JD seems to be way out of my price range for parts on this tractor.

 

[beenthere]

Sounds like you just need the small orange plastic piece for the kit?

 

[pretendfarmer]

Sounds like you just need the small orange plastic piece for the kit?

I will get that, but I can't afford a situation where I remove the cylinder to rebuild it and then run into problems and the tractor and loader are inop. I can buy 2 brand new cylinders for less than $400. I'd rather just install those and then rebuild the other when I have time.

 

[LD1]

Not enough info to give advise.

The rod diameter....and whether it will handle the full load of the cylinder is directly related to the stroke of the cylinder.

Smaller diameter will be more prone to buckle/bend if you use incorrect technique to back drag.

But smaller diameter rods will actually give more curl strength to the machine. (That is if the cylinder is retracting to curl the load).

No idea what a #7 loader is though. And apparently neither does the first few google results. Is this on the 790 tractor you list in your profile? Perhaps a model 70 loader?

 

[pretendfarmer]

Not enough info to give advise.

The rod diameter....and whether it will handle the full load of the cylinder is directly related to the stroke of the cylinder.

Smaller diameter will be more prone to buckle/bend if you use incorrect technique to back drag.

But smaller diameter rods will actually give more curl strength to the machine. (That is if the cylinder is retracting to curl the load).

No idea what a #7 loader is though. And apparently neither does the first few google results. Is this on the 790 tractor you list in your profile? Perhaps a model 70 loader?

I have edited the title to confirm that it is indeed a Model 70. I was in a hurry when I made the thread and left off a zero.