OP
xrjohndeere
Gold Member
How much did your laurin cab cost and did you get the AC/Heat?
Has anyone built a cab for jd 4520
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jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I would think the 110 cab with removable rear section is more expensive than the cab for a 4520. I paid about $7500 for the 110 cab with heat and at that time ( Feb 2005) AC was not available from Laurin. Hammond Industries offered the AC as an add on for the Laurin cab and it was an additional $2100. At the time it was the only way I could see to get a good integrated cab package or close to it.
I would think the 4520 cab with AC package could be had for much less than I spent. I would say that since the 4520 is offered in a cab version this may not be as economically feasible as putting a cab on the 110 since Deere doesn't offer a cab for this model. I would compare the cost of adding a cab with upgrading to a cab tractor and recognize a factory cab will have a higher resale in the future.
I would think the 4520 cab with AC package could be had for much less than I spent. I would say that since the 4520 is offered in a cab version this may not be as economically feasible as putting a cab on the 110 since Deere doesn't offer a cab for this model. I would compare the cost of adding a cab with upgrading to a cab tractor and recognize a factory cab will have a higher resale in the future.
DEON
Bronze Member
Just look at tractors at the dealers that have factory cabs installed. Draw up a plan. 2x2x1/8 square tubing, 1x1/8 flat bar welded to the side of the tubing to fasten the fixed glass to and a place for the door seals to seal against. Take patters of the openings and bring them to a local glass shop to order 1/4" tempered glass for all parts, just like OEM. Forget curved glass, can't be done for a one-off job. Save your patterns for if you break one in the future. Use automotive urethane (with black glass primer) on the glass or the glass may fall off the tractor in a week. After all is painted and dry install the glass. Just get into it. It can be done and its fun and rewarding.
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DEON
Bronze Member
Everyone is patiently waiting for photos of your completed cab!!!
Mike, get the camera clicking.
OP
xrjohndeere
Gold Member
Deon that is a nice cab. I would like to see more detailed pics of it. Do you already have a thread with that? One question I have, it looks like you have plastic fenders like I do? Did you bolt that cab to the fenders and make them rigid? Also where did you get your door hinges, latches, etc.
DEON
Bronze Member
My fenders are steel. I placed a bead of urethane to seal the cab to the fender. Will need to cut the urethane if cab needs to come off. Cab is rubber mounted to plates I welded to the cut-off ROPS post and plates I welded to the loader frame. It is solid with no movements when using tractor on rough terrain. Made the hinges from cold role round stock and got the latches and roof skin from my old Sims cab that came with the tractor. Click on my profile to view previous post on this cab. I didn't take photos during the build which I regret now but here are a few more photos.
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DEON
Bronze Member
One more pic that may help.
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OP
xrjohndeere
Gold Member
That is some nice work Deon. Hopefully I will have some pictures in the future of my own cab build. I know I can build it I just was really concerned about the glass but after seeing yours and other post I fell more at ease with starting the project. Thanks for the info.
Spudland_Dave
Veteran Member
IMO, Trade it in on a 4520 w/Factory Cab...
If you EVER are considering trading or selling your machine a "home brew" cab adds ZERO value, heck it may even reduce the value...
2nd best option would be to purchase a Laurin or Jodale Perry cab for it...but realistically speaking, you could probably trade in yours and upgrade to a new factory cabbed machine for pretty close to the same money...with an aftermarket cab again, you wont get what you put into it when it comes time for resale/trade.
What killed the value of aftermarket cabs is the advent of factory cabs...wasnt too long ago when factory cabs were NOT even an option...Factory cabs are more then just cabs bolted to open station machines....
If you EVER are considering trading or selling your machine a "home brew" cab adds ZERO value, heck it may even reduce the value...
2nd best option would be to purchase a Laurin or Jodale Perry cab for it...but realistically speaking, you could probably trade in yours and upgrade to a new factory cabbed machine for pretty close to the same money...with an aftermarket cab again, you wont get what you put into it when it comes time for resale/trade.
What killed the value of aftermarket cabs is the advent of factory cabs...wasnt too long ago when factory cabs were NOT even an option...Factory cabs are more then just cabs bolted to open station machines....