Has anybody built a box blade?

[4570Man]

I can drill holes up to 2" maybe a tad larger with no problem. I have a forklift in the shop so moving it around is no problem. How do the cutting edges mount. So I can expect to spend $200 maybe $250 for the cutting edges. I have a box blade already, so I am not completely clueless on box blade operation. This one is for a different tractor.

 

[4570Man]

Will 1/4 be thick enough for the sides and back or would it be worth the cost for 3/8?

 

[roadhunter]

Nope, won't work. You gotta buy a specific cutting edge. Anything less will wear dramatically fast. Additionally the hardened cutting edge will add a lot of strength to your BB. It won't bend.

Expect to pay around $100 for a 7ft cutting edge.

I built one with a large piece of angel and it worked fine, something like 6x6x1/2" was used for the blade. For occasional homeowner use it's' not absolutely necessary to have a hardened edge for most situations. If it did happen to wear you could just weld on a hardened blade later. If you don't' have access to some good materials try a scrap yard. Sometimes you can find great pieces for projects like this where you don't' want to buy a whole piece. I found all these parts in the boneyard at a past job. I bought a few weld on ears on ebay and a hydraulic cylinder and hoses from surplus center. The hydraulic top link makes all the difference in the world IMO.

 

[LD1]

I think the hardest part of building a box blade for a home shop is gonna be

1. Milling the slots in the box tube for the scarifiers
2. Rolling the steel for the blade

Everything else is pretty straight forward.

Do you have the ability to handle those two?

 

[4570Man]

I have a milling machine, but I was planning on having the slots plasma cut. I didn't think I had to roll any steel for the blade.

 

[jenkinsph]

LD1, I don't see milling the slots as a problem. Rolling the moldboard is the hardest part, everything else is just work.

 

[Walker1]

I built my first one years ago. I built it all out of scrap, including the cutting edge, which was a drop from the heVy equipment guys I know. You don't HAVE TO curve the moldboard, it just helps keep the material boiling. You can always weld several pieces at a slight angle to get the curve if you really want it. Mine was only 5', and 1/4" plate worked fine for the sides. If I was going to build a bigger one I would go with 3/8" plate for the sides. If you use 1/4" plate consider welding a shoe at the bottom. A back blade and a swinging tailgate are nice, but not absolutely needed. Plan on a nice heavy tube for the front, and don't skimp on the 3 point attachment.

 

[LD1]

Milling slots is thought of you ain't got a mill. Just something else to "hire" done.

If you don't plan to roll the back of the box, what were you planning? Just a flat sheet/plate isn't very strong. Lots of inherent strength in the "roll"

 

[Walker1]

Oh, and also, I would do it again. It was an afternoon project, it was fun, and one of the more useful projects I have made. Even with new materials you will have a better tool at less cost.

 

[4570Man]

Milling slots is thought of you ain't got a mill. Just something else to "hire" done. If you don't plan to roll the back of the box, what were you planning? Just a flat sheet/plate isn't very strong. Lots of inherent strength in the "roll"

I was planning on just a rolled store bought cutting edge.