Frustrated with Grass Growth As Usual

[snpower]

With the early spring here in Virginia, I decided to hit the yard once again and try and improve on what I have: rocky, acidic soil conditions with a lot of bare patches.

In years past a lot of fertilizing has gone on with minimal (or short lived) improvements. After noticing VERY green, thick grass where our new dog poops, I decided to try soil amendments. First, I used a core aerator, then rented a seeder and put down a bag of Southern States Contractor Grade seed. Then I put down a slow release fertilizer (I think it was 23-0-0) from TSC. For the areas that were really bare/in rough shape, I shoveled compost anywhere from 1/3 to 1 inch thick. In other areas that were just really thin or needed extra soil I just added some topsoil as it were.

I've got grass now where I never have before but I feel I should have more growth and coverage given my efforts. Which brings me to my real question: given the lack of any real moisture thus far, are my efforts lost or will the seed just lay dormant until it gets enough moisture?

 

[Piston]

Have you tested your soil?

 

[jonnyc1999]

I'm from the Richmond area, and am dealing with similar issues, mainly from the clay soil on my property. From what I understand, it takes a whole lot of compost to improve clay soil. I would suggest a soil test as well, so you know what ammendments to add. :thumbsup:

 

[s219]

You didn't say what kind of seed you put down, which is a big factor. Fescue germinates best with a soil temperature around 55F, and it needs consistent moisture. If it's dry, or too warm, it ain't going to do much. Our current dry spell is a no-go for seeding unless you can water it. If the roots are not well established by summer, it won't last past July. Really, the best time for seeding fescue in VA is in the fall, with early February a second (but far less desirable) choice.

A warm-season grass, on the other hand, is best seeded in April/May in a normal year, but with the mild winter/spring we've had, it could really be done in March/April of this year. The seedlings won't really get going until May-June, and they need moisture to get going. I'd be watering them right now for sure.

Seed can hang around until the conditions are right to respond, but of course over time it risks being eaten, blowing away, or rotting.

How the grass responds to a dog can vary, but a lot of it has to do with their diet and health. A diabetic dog will green up your grass better than any fertilizer ever could, but good luck getting the dog to pee all over the yard evenly!

 

[s219]

I'm from the Richmond area, and am dealing with similar issues, mainly from the clay soil on my property. From what I understand, it takes a whole lot of compost to improve clay soil. I would suggest a soil test as well, so you know what ammendments to add. :thumbsup:

A warm season grass like Common Bermuda (aka "wire grass") will do OK on clay, but something like fescue really wants at least 2-4 inches of top soil or organic layer over the clay, and requires 8-12" or more to become drought resistant (which is all about putting deep roots down). Over time, a lawn can build up a layer of organic topping and periodic aeration can mitigate the compaction, drainage, and other issues of the clay. It takes a long time though. If we were all rich enough to afford 12" of topsoil, the lawns would look great!

 

[snpower]

The grass is 75/25 fescue and rye. My own soil test showed acidic but I think I should maybe get one done by the Dept of Agriculture?

Looks like another year of mowing dirt from what you guys are saying!

 

[Garybake]

Grass seed needs to stay moistened for at least five days to shoot. If it starts and dries (soil shows cracking from hot days after damp) it will die. Very important that once it is moist it not get real dry or you have bird seed. Good Luck!:thumbsup:

 

[MarkV]

Around here, with our acidic soil, you can put all the fertilizer and seed you want down but without lime to raise the PH you will not get good results. Lime also takes several months to adjust the PH so don't expect over night results. Here is a good article about adjusting for acidic soil. Soil Acidity and Liming (Overview)

MarkV