ford/new holland 1715 clutch issue

[azbinder]

Sorry it took me so long to respond my computer is not working the best lately. I got that quote from my local new holland dealer. I don't know any independent tractor repair companies. It was for a flywheel resurfacing, a dual stage clutch kit, new fluid and filter along with $1400 in labor.

Did your dealer break down the parts pricing for you? T/O brg? Clutch assy.? Messicks has a rebuilt clutch assembly listed for $2579.10, but depending on how bad it is, you may not need the complete clutch assy,. Just the disc, which runs $180.48 rebuilt. Or there are shops that could relined the disc for less than that I would think. I'm trying to figure out the labor. I would think that the job could be done in about 8 hours. At $100 per hour that would be $800. Don't know if you are mechanically inclined, but you could save yourself quite a bit.

 

[jones6780]

If you have enough travel on the clutch and it does not release then it is probably stuck/frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate. It can be broken free. Usually you would put something on the 3 point hitch that places a lot of drag on the tractor, even a brush mower cutting high grass. Then start the tractor press the clutch and let the drag break it free.

 

[topofmichigan]

Did your dealer break down the parts pricing for you? T/O brg? Clutch assy.? Messicks has a rebuilt clutch assembly listed for $2579.10, but depending on how bad it is, you may not need the complete clutch assy,. Just the disc, which runs $180.48 rebuilt. Or there are shops that could relined the disc for less than that I would think. I'm trying to figure out the labor. I would think that the job could be done in about 8 hours. At $100 per hour that would be $800. Don't know if you are mechanically inclined, but you could save yourself quite a bit.

Thanks for the feedback. I checked the part number they used and it is for a dual clutch which did cost $1450 for two discs, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. I was thinking of doing it myself just nervous about getting it back together. Do you know if there are any clearance measurements involved? My service manual is on a CD and I haven't been able to look at it yet. I know I'll need a clutch alignment tool although I read somewhere that a socket extension would work. What are your thoughts on that? Have a nice day.

 

[topofmichigan]

If you have enough travel on the clutch and it does not release then it is probably stuck/frozen to the flywheel or pressure plate. It can be broken free. Usually you would put something on the 3 point hitch that places a lot of drag on the tractor, even a brush mower cutting high grass. Then start the tractor press the clutch and let the drag break it free.

Thanks for the feedback. I would have to start the tractor while it's in gear and don't know how well that will work, it doesn't start easily anyway. Could the same thing be accomplished by towing the tactor and working the clutch pedal at the same time? Have a nice day.

 

[jones6780]

Yes, be careful it doesn't start. Some tractors have a viewport for the clutch. If it does you can block the clutch pedal down and maybe use a thin piece of wood to tap the clutch disk or a puddy knife. Not too hard as may cause damage

 

[kirkawilson]

I have never actually seen the clutch access port on my 1920, likely because it's behind the left loader mount. Your 1715 might have one there also. This thread has more info:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/176639-ford-1920-pto-clutch-fun.html

And there is a picture of the access port on this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ing/356752-problem-splitting-ford-1920-a.html

 

[billybobjimmyjoejack]

I have a 1715 and have replaced the clutch twice (lots of loader work). The 1715 was only available with a single stage clutch, no two stage clutch is even available. Changing the clutch is not difficult, I would remove the loader first if you have one then you split the tractor at the bell-housing and then I would support the back half of the tractor on blocks and the front would be supported by a floor jack so it can be rolled away from the rear section. Then it is just a simple clutch job. I always block my clutch pedal with a 2" X 2" so it does not stick together, depress the clutch pedal and place the block between the pedal shaft and the underside of the step. There is no access port on the 1715 to check or free up the clutch. There is a hole in the bottom of the bell-housing that should have a cotter pin sticking out of it, this is called a "jiggle" drain and it should be checked so water does not build up inside the bell-housing.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Did you ever try to adjust the clutch? May be as simple as out of adjustment. When pedal is all the way up, should be 1/2"-3/4" free play before throw out bearing engages pressure plate. Don't say it don't happen. Fixed one last week, just needed adjusted.