ford/new holland 1715 clutch issue

[topofmichigan]

Hi everyone, hopefully someone can help me. My tractor shifted gears and drove good. I bought it used and had it for a year with no issues. Since I bought it used I thought it would be a good idea to change the fluids. I decided to change the hyd/trans fluid first and when I did it was milky looking which told me it had water mixed in it. I changed the fluid using 134D universal fluid and changed the filter. After I changed it, it sat for a couple of days since I didn't need to use it. When I went to use it, it didn't shift like it had and I had to shift it while it was moving. I used it for about an hour and then parked it. A few days later I went to use it again and the clutch wouldn't disengage and the gears were just grinding. I did notice a whirring/whistling sound when began depressing the clutch petal. My question is, would changing the fluid cause this problem? Is it possible I used the wrong fluid? I got the spec both online and in the owners manual. If anyone has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated as I am looking at a $4000 repair estimate. Thank you for any help I can get.

 

[azbinder]

Who gave you a $4000 estimate, and for doing what?

 

[zzvyb6]

It might be the Universal Fluid. Probably 40 wgt. Low Vis (30 wgt) is usually needed to make these things work properly. Friend of mine did the same oil in his kubota. Would not move. Drained out the Universal Fluid, put in the Kubota Low Vis and bingo !

 

[Harry in Ky]

The fluid type in this case has little if any bearing on the operation (or non operation) of a dry clutch. The 1715 has a gear driven 9 X 3 transmission. If you have a clutch problem, you have a clutch problem. It's not a "fluid type" problem.

 

[jones6780]

The whirring/whistling is probably a throw-out bearing going bad. Will the clutch release if in gear? There are times when the clutch disk will get stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Some owners will put a block under the clutch pedal to disengage when not in use.

 

[topofmichigan]

Who gave you a $4000 estimate, and for doing what?

Sorry it took me so long to respond my computer is not working the best lately. I got that quote from my local new holland dealer. I don't know any independent tractor repair companies. It was for a flywheel resurfacing, a dual stage clutch kit, new fluid and filter along with $1400 in labor.

 

[topofmichigan]

The whirring/whistling is probably a throw-out bearing going bad. Will the clutch release if in gear? There are times when the clutch disk will get stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Some owners will put a block under the clutch pedal to disengage when not in use.

Sorry it took me so long to respond, my computer hasn't been my friend lately. I thought that was the throw-out bearing I was hearing. I've had to change them in a stick shift before. When I put it in gear and tried to start it, it started to move forward, so I would say it didn't disengage. Do you know how I could find out if the clutch is stuck to the flywheel? Thank you for any help you can provide.

 

[topofmichigan]

The fluid type in this case has little if any bearing on the operation (or non operation) of a dry clutch. The 1715 has a gear driven 9 X 3 transmission. If you have a clutch problem, you have a clutch problem. It's not a "fluid type" problem.

Sorry it took me to long to respond Harry, my computer hasn't been my friend lately. Thanks for the feedback. I wasn't sure if it was a wet or dry clutch. If its a dry clutch I wonder why the repair shop would want to put new fluid in when I told them I just changed it. It just seemed strange to me that it worked good until I changed the fluid.

 

[topofmichigan]

It might be the Universal Fluid. Probably 40 wgt. Low Vis (30 wgt) is usually needed to make these things work properly. Friend of mine did the same oil in his kubota. Would not move. Drained out the Universal Fluid, put in the Kubota Low Vis and bingo !

Sorry it took me so long to respond, my computers been a real thorn in my side lately. The fluid I used wasn't labeled as universal like I thought, it is a SAE 20 or ISO 68 comparable utility tractor fluid, me bad. I did only have 5 gallons of that and used about 3 gallons of the universal fluid that had the 134D spec to top it off that I had used in my Yanmar. What's your thoughts on the 20 wgt? Thank you for your feedback and have a nice day.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Probably not the best combination to run long term, but certainly not the reason you have a clutch problem. Why would they recommend changing it again? Most likely because it's more hydraulic fluid than transmission fluid. Will it damage anything? Not really.