///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? /////

   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? ///// #1  

Andyinchville1

New member
Joined
Jan 7, 2023
Messages
2
Tractor
Ford 8N
Hi All,

So I have an 1952 8N that is driving me crazy ....

Even though the tractor has a push button start near the gear shift lever (like "normal" 8Ns , the previous owner wired in a more "normal" key switch to start the tractor up (by normal I mean one click forward to the "run position" then it hits the start position and then you are supposed to let it off to the run position (pretty much like a regular car key switch).

Anyways, the problem I am having is when I switch the key forward just a bit (not even to the start position ....just maybe towards the run position) , the starter engages and the tractor starts ....

Problem with this is that the starter does not release and you can hear the engine spinning up the starter to high revs (the starter does not disengage and if left this way it may blow up the starter by over revving ....

The way to "fix" this is to back the key up a hair .... if you do it just right the starter disengages and the engine continues to run ... if you miss the sweet spot by just a hair ... the ignition is cut in addition to the starter disengaging ....

I tries a second key switch ... same issue

I am guessing something is not quite wired right ..... how would this issue be solved OR do I HAVE to somehow rewire it to the starter button on the trans and only use the key switch to turn the ignition "on" ?

Thanks in advance for any and all help

Andrew
 
   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? ///// #2  
Hi All,

So I have an 1952 8N that is driving me crazy ....

Even though the tractor has a push button start near the gear shift lever (like "normal" 8Ns , the previous owner wired in a more "normal" key switch to start the tractor up (by normal I mean one click forward to the "run position" then it hits the start position and then you are supposed to let it off to the run position (pretty much like a regular car key switch).

Anyways, the problem I am having is when I switch the key forward just a bit (not even to the start position ....just maybe towards the run position) , the starter engages and the tractor starts ....

Problem with this is that the starter does not release and you can hear the engine spinning up the starter to high revs (the starter does not disengage and if left this way it may blow up the starter by over revving ....

The way to "fix" this is to back the key up a hair .... if you do it just right the starter disengages and the engine continues to run ... if you miss the sweet spot by just a hair ... the ignition is cut in addition to the starter disengaging ....

I tries a second key switch ... same issue

I am guessing something is not quite wired right ..... how would this issue be solved OR do I HAVE to somehow rewire it to the starter button on the trans and only use the key switch to turn the ignition "on" ?

Thanks in advance for any and all help

Andrew
They sell push button starter switches at the auto parts stores. I've had a dozen of those tractors. Never had one wired factory correct. Never wanted one wired factory correct. The push button by the gear shift is a neutral safety, so it's a good thing if it works. Sounds like your RUN wire is in with the START circuit somewhere. Wire from START on key switch should run to solenoid. That should be the only small wire on the solenoid besides the two battery supply wires from battery and to starter. There is an S and I studs on the Ford type solenoids. Sounds like someone got on the I post to hot the points when in START, but when it's on RUN, it back feeds and keeps solenoid engaged. Run a wire from START to the distributor, and run another from RUN to distributor. I put a ballast resistor on the RUN wire. That way it starts on full 12 V but runs on a reduced voltage. I do it because it starts good and the points last longer.
 
   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? ///// #3  
Look on line and find a wiring diagram then rewire the tractor. They are simple to do (5 wires if it has an alternator and no lights) but the MOST important thing is to get the neutral safety wired and working for YOUR safety and anyone else who may try to use the tractor. I preach this on every forum I visit.

This a thread on another forum that makes it clear why the safety switch needs to be fixed.

 
   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? ///// #4  
   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? /////
  • Thread Starter
#5  
HI,

Thanks for the replies and links .... I will order the 2 position switch and I plan on using the push button starter so I will rewire it .... I really do NOT want to be run over by those huge rear tires!

I cannot recall if the starter solenoid is from an auto application or not so I will also order one that says it's for a 12V 8N ( I did read somewhere where automotive solenoids operate differently than tractor solenoids .... I don't remember exactly how they were different (something about auto starters engage with 12V to the terminal whereas tractor solenoids have the small terminal always energized and then the starter switch ground out the terminal to engage the starter?).

Thanks and I'll hope everything works out when i get the parts in.

Andrew
 
   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? ///// #6  
You are right the automotive solenoids have the small post grounded so you apply voltage to it to engage the solenoid. The N tractors solenoid, the small post has voltage applied to it internally from the battery cable and you supply the ground with the push button on the transmission.
 
   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? ///// #7  
Here's a good wiring diagram for a late model 8N that has been converted to 12v:
 

Attachments

  • Just 8N's 12v conversion for 8N sn263844 and up.jpg
    Just 8N's 12v conversion for 8N sn263844 and up.jpg
    597.9 KB · Views: 183
   / ///// Ford 8N Key Switch wiring screwy ?? ///// #8  
I did read somewhere where automotive solenoids operate differently than tractor solenoids .... I don't remember exactly how they were different

The issue is with most Ford car and truck solenoids are activated by application of 12 volts because the case is already grounded via mounting it to something that is itself grounded.

That said, I have still used them and activate them via the grounding 8n push button. The key is you can’t mount it to anything conductive. This one is mounted to a non conductive spacer.

106F45FD-7812-4673-BF69-66AF763FCFE4.jpeg

Now, the wire where One would normally send 12 volts to to crank is connected directly to 12 volts (red) and the isolated case is wired to the push button (blue). I also like to connect the “I” connection to the coil, by passing the resistor.

281A5CCF-3DF6-4010-BE87-5E3BC3A8BEE1.jpeg


It’s actually a built in trouble shooter. If it fires (runs) while the button is pushed and dies when you let go, you have an ignition switch or resistor problem and not an issue with points/distributor.
 
 
Top