Dads old 8n not firing up

[Danielball]

My dad passed away in March of last year. He left behind what I think is a 1951 model 8n. A few days after he passed I charged the battery and fired it up and drove it around for an hour or so, parked it and disconnected battery. Covered it up with an old car cover. About a month ago I went back to moms to scrape her driveway and the 8n wouldn’t fire up. I think the gas maybe is bad. It’s definitely getting fuel to carburetor but I noticed fuel has a funny smell, almost watered down. I’m no mechanic but I know a little. Any suggestions?

 

[dirttoys]

If you suspect fuel, drain/siphon and refill. Add stabilizer this time. Pull hose from carb and drain a quart, make sure battery is up, and have a jump vehicle, give it a good crank, add just a hint of starting fluid, don't crank for over a minute without a five minute rest. Report back if that doesn't do it.

Best,

ed

 

[CalG]

Check spark before getting too far along the fuel path.
It takes both fuel and spark to fire.
Weathered points will cause a no start condition sure as the sun comes up in the East.

 

[jaxs]

There's at least half dozen things that commonly cause a crank-no-start. Test one at the time starting with easiest until problem is found. Spark is easy to pull a plug wire and look for spark. Old tractors and cars from that period were easy to flood when they were 5 years old so 72 years old it's hard not to flood one. I would turn fuel off to take flooding out of the picture and try starting fluid just to see if it will hit then go back to gas if it does.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Once you do get it started and running, when you get done with it, turn off the gas at the sediment bowl and let the engine burn the gas in the carburetor, then shut off the key after it stops running. It will help keep the carb from getting gummy with evaporated gas. This is especially true if you don't use it on a regular basis.

 

[square1]

The ignition switch itself is a common no start issue on the N series.

 

[jwmorris]

If it is going to sit more than being ran, drain the tank and refill with ethanol free gasoline and follow the suggestion of shutting off the fuel and running until the bowl is dry.

However, we need a little more than “wouldn’t fire up”. It’s getting fuel of an unknown quality, does it turn over fine when you hit the button but just not run? Does it have a spark? Will it fire with a short “tap” of starting fluid at the intake?

I don’t have problems with our ‘52 side mount distributor 8n but the front mount ‘48 we have has to have the points cleaned at least every other year. It’s a pain to get to the points on the old ones though, this is a much quicker fix.

 

[John0829]

First make sure you have spark, more GOOD fuel systems have been screwed up by a bad ignition. Pull the coil wire and see if it has a nice snappy blue spark, lazy yellow or no spark at all. If no spark it could very well be the ignition switch as mentioned, use a wire to jumper from the battery to the coil and see if that gives it spark.

As others have said when you park it be sure to turn off the fuel and if it is to sit more than run use a good fuel treatment or non ethanol fuel

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

A lot of problems are caused by the separation of alcohol from gas on carb vehicles. EFI keeps it mixed, so it can be used. Alcohol is on bottom of tank. Fuel inlet is on bottom. Alcohol doesn't have enough umph to do a cold start. Smells funny? You're smelling alcohol when expecting gasoline. I don't see any problem with using ethanol except separation and no cold starting. I have carbed vehicles and use it all the time. You just have to prime it with gas to get things kicked off. Or starting fluid, but I only use that on two stroke engines.

 

[CalG]

On my 1950 Fordson E27n, If it doesn't fire off soon after cranking, I pull a spark plug to inspect for wet, dry and spark.
No gas
Flooded
or no spark

are ALWAYS the culprit! ;-)