Lines are new as well as wheel cylinders and emergency brake cable. If I bleed off pressure at master cylinder fluid comes out and brakes work fine until you use the foot pedal and ebrake together again. So that should eliminate any blockage in line theory. I'm stumped, but not giving up yet. I was thinking about swapping out left and right master cylinders with each other, but they work fine when just using the pedals.
CASE BACKHOE 580C BRAKE PROBLEMS
- Thread starter mickpo
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DLTTrekkers
Veteran Member
You still do not beliefe it can be the freetravel at the brakemastersilinder . There is not enough fteetravel ! Trapped oil gets hot and you get a pressue build up ! Give it just a bit more freetravel !
DJ54
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
The only place I see a check valve in the system, is in the master cylinder. The only other thing I can think it would be, if the return springs on the outside are all OK, would be the springs of the expanding plates inside the brake housing. Could be one broke, and when applying both, it cocks, and binds the brake discs, on the bull pinion shaft. Hard to diagnose,without actually seeing what is going on, with all of those pieces/parts.
Might be an idea to get a helper, and have them push & set the brake, and you look from underneath. Could be something you're not seeing from up top.
Might be an idea to get a helper, and have them push & set the brake, and you look from underneath. Could be something you're not seeing from up top.
The wheels cylinders, the rubber brake lines and ebrake cable all new. When I bleed off at the right master cylinder everything goes back to normal until you use the pedals and ebrake again. So that should eliminate the blockage of return in the line back to master cylinder. Have lots of free travel in pedals. So last night I wanted to eliminate the master cylinder as possible problem. I disconnected the brake line from left master cylinder that works fine on the left brake. Hooked a temporary line from left master to right wheel cylinder, still get the same problem. My thought are possible wheel cylinder. I might swap wheel cylinders from each side next.
DLTTrekkers
Veteran Member
My next q is ....what tipe of oil did you fill the brake reservoir with ? And what tipe is the correct oil that must be used ?
Wrong oil will tel that seals swell and then that inner piston will stuck inside the mastersilinders.
Wrong oil will tel that seals swell and then that inner piston will stuck inside the mastersilinders.
DJ54
Elite Member
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- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Have you had the brake assembly off on the right side..?? This whole time I was picturing brakes on the old 310B, and not the 480C. Once I saw it, it came back to me. I just worked on so many things since then, it escaped me.
I do recall a lot of fine dirt dust in the housing, and things being half frozen up, and binding. I did replace the brake bands on both sides, and the 1" ball bearings. They were rusty, and were pitted pretty bad. They even had some, sort of flat spots on them, which was actually rust. I tapped them with a small hammer to clean them up, but was pitted below that, and pretty rough. At the time Joseph Industries had them for like 75 cents each, so ordered a new set for each side.
If you haven't had it off, be aware when you take the bottom bolt out, it's drilled out clear into the differential housing, and you'll lose differential oil, unless you drain it down first.
I do recall a lot of fine dirt dust in the housing, and things being half frozen up, and binding. I did replace the brake bands on both sides, and the 1" ball bearings. They were rusty, and were pitted pretty bad. They even had some, sort of flat spots on them, which was actually rust. I tapped them with a small hammer to clean them up, but was pitted below that, and pretty rough. At the time Joseph Industries had them for like 75 cents each, so ordered a new set for each side.
If you haven't had it off, be aware when you take the bottom bolt out, it's drilled out clear into the differential housing, and you'll lose differential oil, unless you drain it down first.