branson 3820

[Unregistered1]

well tomorrow i will be dealing for a new 3820. is there anything i should ask about this tractor before purchasing it.
also i read somewhere here about putting in ( i think it said rem seal ) and tubes. do most people do that.
thanks for your help in advance

 

[rameye]

Well,,,hmmmm lets see.

I dont know how you plan on working your machine, but I like the R-4's for general purpose usage.

I had my tires filled with rim seal...(aka beet juice) mucho $$

See what the policy is on p/u and delivery..is it free for warranty work or is there a charge?

If you dont have the chunk of cash for the machine, take the financing its a better deal @0%.

Try to get a hold of an HL50 loader if possible.

If you are going to get an attachment(s) now is the time...I got mine for dealer cost as part of the deal.

Toothbar on the bucket is something I like.

Some of the machines come pre-piped with rear hydraulics and a towing socket...get that if you can.

Thats my laundry list.

Most Important above all...if you dont like the dealer, dont buy it! He is your life blood, if he puts you off when you're buying a machine, he sure wont care when it's broke!

Good luck /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[GEB]

Some of these tractors had issues with a lot of white smoke on a
cold start-up, I'd walk in unexpected and see how it starts.
I eneded up trading mine back in for a 4720 because of this!
For the most part it is a well bulit tractor, I was very
well pleased with mine other than the smoke problem.
My dealer is good but to far away /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Where ya located? Price can very a few grand from dealer to dealer!
Maybe try for the 50 hr service after you reach a deal.
I think you'll like it, my 4720 still needs some use...weather permitting.
BTW what sort of use do you have for it?
And yes, try and get your attachments as a pakage deal.
The R4 tires maybe a good choice also?
Good luck.
Gene

 

[Unregistered1]

thanks ram & geb for your response
let me start out by saying i know nothing about a tractor.
i have 10 acres in elk city, ok. i will be digging some post holes using a front end loader and a mower also a 2 bottom plow as well as a garden tiller. i am in ca. right now and will be going to ok at the end of this year, however my brother will go to the dealer tomarrow and i want to give him as much information as i can from here.
about the r4 tires i am not sure what they are for i just figured the ag. tires will do but perhaps not so maybe you can tell me more if i would be better off with the r4 or ag tire.
what is the purpose of rem seal?
i will also ask about the pre piped hydrolics.

i will also have my brother check out the white smoke issue?
i am not sure if that was cured by the check valve in fuel line or not.
we won't be able to start it up because dealer will have to order it for us.
so far we are at 17,100 and that includes the fel.
my brother say dealer is a nice fellow and he called him at home sat. night was no problem about that.
does price seem to be in the right ball park so far.
thanks
darrell

 

[rameye]

Mine smokes (unburned fuel) on start up also...all diesels do. GEB had a problem that was extreme, and is worth mentioning. I increased my glow cycle by 10 seconds and the problem went away....there is quite a bit on this board, if you research this topic.

I,m not an expert, I've gpot 25 hours more on a tractor than you, but I'm a fast study. Having the rear tires filled with something is critical if you are going to use the FEL. Its a counterweight, helps with traction also

. Rim seal is a commercial fluid made from beets, environmentally safe if you get a leak. Some fellas use calcium chloride or windshield washer fluid to fill their tires. One caveat, if you're using soemthing that will promote rust, have the tires tubed and the tubes filled with your product of choice. Bottom line, ask your dealer, that's who'll fill them for you.

Basically their are Ag tires and R-4's. Ag tires are skinny and have an arrow design. They are suppose give you more traction in mud. R-4's are much wider lending to more stability, they may offer less traction because they have a much less aggressive tread design. This is by design so they dont screw up your lawn etc. They are thicker and tougher and are reported to take more abuse, less chance of a puncture.

The century has an option which cocnsists of rear hydraulic connections and a towing plug...its a nice option I didnlt thinkI'd need but I did end up using it...glad I got it.

This board is full of good folks, very willing to help and spend your $$. Some of the guys who chime in are dealers and they can be a terrific resource.

Good Luck.....ram

 

[Evasive1]

If you think you may ever need the extra hydraulics get them now as it will be cheaper than adding them later. Here is a picture of the extra hydraulics on the back (excuse the dirt, she has been getting a lot of workout lately). I plan on getting a 3-pt log splitter in the future so I am glad the hydraulics are already there.

I have R4's and have been happy with them. They are supposed to be the best for loader work and so far that is what I have done the most with on my tractor. I was stuck once with the R4's. I could still move back and forth I could just not climb out of my own ruts back up the hill. I do not think ag tires would of made a difference here. The wife in the old jeep was just enough to get me turned out of the ruts.

I do not have my tires filled, but anytime I am doing loader work I have a 6' heavy duty box blade on the back and all is well. Loading the tires would of added an extra 800 lbs. and the ole Suburban would of been none to happy about that. The Century/Branson tractors are already heavy, beefy tractors.

Good luck on the search.