Best Oil for Kohler Command V -Twins
- Thread starter GTSRider
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jaotguy
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any full synthetic oil will stand the higher temps something in the 10W30 range
CalG
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The Kohler 25 HP in the Bolens has an advisory in it's operations literature that reads to the effect that Straight 30 wt is best, and multi-vis oils can result in excessive oil consumption.
If you are"running hot", that's good! IC engines are most efficient when they are hot. IF running "too hot" that's bad, but it's not because you have filled the crank case with the wrong viscosity oil.
How do you know if you might be running too hot? Have you an oil temperature gauge?
eta
I run 10-30 in everything. The Mitsubishi get SD spec oil. I must have at least 16 " Infernal combustion" engines to keep lubricated. A couple of them have over 200K miles logged.
If you are"running hot", that's good! IC engines are most efficient when they are hot. IF running "too hot" that's bad, but it's not because you have filled the crank case with the wrong viscosity oil.
How do you know if you might be running too hot? Have you an oil temperature gauge?
eta
I run 10-30 in everything. The Mitsubishi get SD spec oil. I must have at least 16 " Infernal combustion" engines to keep lubricated. A couple of them have over 200K miles logged.
Last edited:
tracter
Silver Member
There is a chart that shows the effective ambient temperature operating range of oils and 30w does not cut it if you are in a hot area , I occasionally have to mow when it is round 40c/100f and 30W is about as good as water
Make your decision based on the chart
Oz
Make your decision based on the chart
Oz
4570Man
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My Dixie chopper with that motor said to use Lucas oil, but they probably own Lucas stock. We just use regular napa 30w.
CalG
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What does 40C have to do with engine oil temperature? IIRC typical crankcase oil and engine temps are more like 90c+ . Is there a disconnect in reasoning here?
As mentioned, IF the engine is running "HOT" it's not the oils fault. nor will it be the cure.
MossRoad
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I think he's running his engine when the outside air is 40C (or 100F), meaning its really hot in the area where he lives and 30W is sometimes too thin for outside air temps like that.
Hill Billy Bob
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Have you checked for debri wedged in between your engine and the shroud that surrounds it. If one or both cylinders have a reduced air flow, your engine will run hot. Rodents find that area a cozy place to set up house keeping for the winter.
As far as the best oil.....I don't know....but my 2005, LT1050 still runs great with over 1000 hours on the clock. I have used Mobil Delvac 15w/40 almost exclusively, in both the engine, and the hydrostatic transmission.....so far, so good
As far as the best oil.....I don't know....but my 2005, LT1050 still runs great with over 1000 hours on the clock. I have used Mobil Delvac 15w/40 almost exclusively, in both the engine, and the hydrostatic transmission.....so far, so good
jaotguy
Veteran Member
muli oils work better over a large outdoor temp range ... ( the lower the first number, the easier to start in cold weather .... the higher the second , the thicker it is when warm at running temperature .... too low a number in hot weather and you sometimes "use oil" ) but synthetic is always better than dino oil , less sludge buildup ...
as for running hot , try blowing out the debris from the shroud areas as suggested by others .... (you WILL be amazed at the amount that collects) ... and most units call for the cleaning every 100 hrs anyway .
as for running hot , try blowing out the debris from the shroud areas as suggested by others .... (you WILL be amazed at the amount that collects) ... and most units call for the cleaning every 100 hrs anyway .
buickanddeere
Super Member
There are advantages inherent to straight weight oils over multi. Detroit Diesel wouldn't still be specifying straight over multi to this day for two strokes.
Over heating is often due to the operator trying to "save" the engine by operating at less than full rated Rpms which reduces cooling air flow. Running rated Rpms at 3600 instead of lugging at 3000rpm moves 1.44 times more cooling air.
For the little bitty amount of oil a small engine holds . Use a real group IV or group V synthetic manufacturered from PAO or Ester. This would be Mobil 1, Amsoil, royal purple, lubrication engineers etc. Castrol and Shell is just processed mineral oil.
Over heating is often due to the operator trying to "save" the engine by operating at less than full rated Rpms which reduces cooling air flow. Running rated Rpms at 3600 instead of lugging at 3000rpm moves 1.44 times more cooling air.
For the little bitty amount of oil a small engine holds . Use a real group IV or group V synthetic manufacturered from PAO or Ester. This would be Mobil 1, Amsoil, royal purple, lubrication engineers etc. Castrol and Shell is just processed mineral oil.