Adding Tilt to Blade????

Libertine · Sep 26, 2003

Anyone taken a standard 3pt blade and added a cylinder to tilt it?

I have a Woods RB72 and it has only 3 tilt positions (there are plenty of angle positions though) which are only accidently what you need when you are trying to grade a bevel. It looks like you could attach a fitting to the top of the main frame that would swivel (for when the blade was reversed) and another on the moldboard. You would then attach a cylinder between the two fittings. Looks like it would work, but perhaps someone here has done this. Any suggestions? (Or perhaps this should be posted in make your own???).

JEH

Slamfire · Sep 26, 2003

One, most likely the right one, of the lift links adjusts. You can tilt the blade or any other implement by lengthing or shortening it.

Libertine · Sep 27, 2003

Slamfire:

You can tilt the blade or any other implement by lengthing or shortening it. 

I know. However, the range is not too much, and, it requires hand cranking. The idea is that, for example, let's say you want to begin a slope at 10 degrees then increasing over so many feet to say to 25 degrees (more or less). It would be impractical to stop, change the angle, move a few more feet, stop, change the angle, etc. In other words it should be adjustable "on the fly". I guess I could replace the crank vertical arm with a cylinder but don't know if the capacity (or range) would be enough, and, in any event, the lift arms would not remain the same after the engine was off (leak down in the cylinder). So . . . ????

JEH

nomad · Sep 27, 2003

If I didn't understand you wrong, you want the blade should be tilted at many angles and tilting should be so that it could be changed gradually. This requires the blade should have cylindirical or spherical joint connection. And, then, you can add a simple lift mounted on one side of the blade. For accurate tilts, the lift mounting position on the blade should be close to the joint, but this will absorb more hydraulic power than mounting it to the end side of blade. A novice's 1 cent..

JerryG · Sep 27, 2003

I don't have a URL handy, but there are more than one company that has placed from one to three cylinders on back blades. I have the Hardee-Williams version on the same blade and thought about doing the same thing you are wanting to do. (I think it is the same, several companies sell this blade) The way the blade is made, I don't think that it would be that hard to customize it.

Slamfire · Sep 27, 2003

I found one of the hand crank models from an old Ford, that you can adjust from the tractor seat, and it is helping a lot. I realize hydraulics would be even easier, but I don't have remotes.

Libertine · Sep 28, 2003

nomad:

This requires the blade should have cylindirical or spherical joint connection. 

There is a swivel joint at the rear of the frame for the existing tilt. The problem is there are only 3 tilt positions - one horizontal, one each port & starboard tilt. If the pin is pulled the blade rotates around frame (connected to the 3pt). If I simply drilled more holes for the pin, they would "run together" and not hold the blade angle.

you can add a simple lift mounted on one side of the blade. For accurate tilts, the lift mounting position on the blade should be close to the joint 

That's what I'm thinking about - just wondered if anyone had done this.

JerryG:

Don't know if Hardee-Williams supplied the blade (moldboard) for the Woods or not. There is a square hole midway up the moldboard about 1 1/2' M/L from the frame which could be used for one end of the hydraulic cylinder attachment to avoid drilling in the moldboard. The other end would have to be welded (although I guess I could use brackets). Landpride (and no doubt Woods and many others) makes a rear blade where both angle and tilt are controlled hydraulically. But these are expensive, category 2 and "overkill" for my smaller tractor.

slamfire:

I can crank from seat now but it's really not practical. I do have one set of rear remotes so might as well take advantage of them. The only issue I am a little concerned about is attaching the cylinder to the frame - it has to swivel along with the moldboard when reversing the blade (unless I removed the hydraulic tilt each time the blade was reversed which seems silly). So . . . I will have to design/find/modify something.

JEH

ronjhall · Sep 28, 2003

Grimreaper

Land Pride has a 40 series rear blade with tilt, angle, and offset. Check out their operator and parts manual for suggestions on how to power these adjustments. Click Here

Libertine · Sep 28, 2003

ronjhall:

Hey, thanks a lot for the link. They've got a pic in the parts manual that shows another hookup from what I was thinking about. I knew they sold them, but, aside from the price, the "100hp" a bit more than I could provide.

Again, really appreciate it.

JEH