4000hr+ machines $3k, is it worth it?

[Sandman614]

In looking for a yard tractor, something I can replace my zero turn with and add functionality for moving dirt, gravel, and other heavy objects, I came across an add on Marketplace. Trying to decide if they are worth it with the number of hours. What parts would be a concern and how available are parts?

The seller has 2 pt-425 "They each come with a set of pallet forks and a bucket. One has 4286hrs and the other 4037. Both run great! The only two issues are one machine has to be jumped off, so there is a battery charging issue and the other has a slight joist control box hydraulic leak when it gets hot."

 

[TwinOaks9]

If you were just going to use it for utility, probably, but a lot of mowing will be hard on the machine.

 

[Sandman614]

If you were just going to use it for utility, probably, but a lot of mowing will be hard on the machine.

I've only got 1 acre and less than 1/2 to 1/3 gets mowed a couple times a year, we planted clover because grass won't grow. The rest will get leaves mulched maybe once a year. My lawnmower sits soo long that a brand new battery is dead and won't take a charge

 

[m5040]

That is a lot of hours, but if they were maintained they should be fine. Ask questions like how often the hyd oil filter was changed? (Manufacture wants a 50 hour change, if not done use your judgement). It is to your advantage that there are 2 to compare. Look for loose joints. I would take the time and actually grease the machine to make sure they weren't neglected and now won't except grease. Use down force to pick the machine up and also try and pick up the back of your truck or a load of dirt and see if the hydraulics hold (when new that seep continuously, just see if it goes down where you can notice). When loading the bucket, wheels should be hard NOT to spin (a true professional can load the bucket without spinning the tires).
The charging problem might just be a regulator, or it could be a bad connection or coil. Whatever it is, it is standard to the engine.
The leak needs to be cleaned, put under a load and watch for seepage. NEVER USE YOUR SKIN TO TEST FOR LEAKS, a high psi spray can penetrate the skin.
Parts seem to be available from Power Trac, and if discontinued they will have a close replacement.

 

[MossRoad]

Without seeing the machines, it would be hard to tell. Those have 25hp gas engines. That's a lot of hours. Don't know what year they are. Koehler or Robin engine.

IF you're handy and enjoy working on machines, it might not be a bad starting point to get into a PT. However, I'd check things like engine compression, tightness in the center joints where the machine articulates, condition of hydraulic hoses, jack it up and look for any wobble in the wheel motor bearings, full speed at forward AND reverse, power ( push it up against something immovable and see if you can spin the wheels on dirt). Leaks. Cooling fan working. Piston end rod joint slop.

 

[MossRoad]

Oh yeah, lift capacity. As mentioned, put the pallet forks or bucket under something heavy like a pickup truck, a large trailer, a huge boulder, etc. and lift. You should be able to raise the rear of the machine off the ground with no problems.

Also, look carefully around the center joints where they are welded to the front and rear tubs for cracks, metal fatigue, etc. Do the same for the steering rams.

 

[m5040]

I might be interested in the other tractor (unless you go for both), if they are in New England, message me and maybe we could look together.

 

[Sandman614]

Without seeing the machines, it would be hard to tell. Those have 25hp gas engines. That's a lot of hours. Don't know what year they are. Koehler or Robin engine.

IF you're handy and enjoy working on machines, it might not be a bad starting point to get into a PT. However, I'd check things like engine compression, tightness in the center joints where the machine articulates, condition of hydraulic hoses, jack it up and look for any wobble in the wheel motor bearings, full speed at forward AND reverse, power ( push it up against something immovable and see if you can spin the wheels on dirt). Leaks. Cooling fan working. Piston end rod joint slop.

At least the one has a Kohler engine. I'd say the visual/cosmetic wear matches the hours. The other problem is not having a trailer to pick them up with but it's easy enough to run by uhaul.

I might be interested in the other tractor (unless you go for both), if they are in New England, message me and maybe we could look together.

They're in NC, If I went for them I would pickup both and repair them to resell the 2nd. There's also a Mower and 2 other attachments available from a member down here I would pickup as well.

I'm handy and don't mind fixing old equipment. My zero turn mower I got from my Father in Law after he wore it out. I rebuilt the engine and started using clean motor oil in it rather than topping it up with used oil like he used to...Farmer stuff ...

Looking at the pics again, is that wheel cracked?

 

[TwinOaks9]

I'm looking for the fertilizer/salt spreader if you find one!

 

[m5040]

Like you said hours/match condition. The wheel might be cracked and it might have been caused by the missing lug nut. Or it could be just grease on the wheel