1997 Ford 1320 wont start

[BGery]

I have a 97 Ford 1320 that wont start. I just recently acquired the tractor. Apparently it worked while the previous owners were living on the property. I checked all the basics, has fuel, replaced the battery, air filter oil, and checked all other liquids.

After checking everything and replacing fluids I tried turning it over with the old battery. I warmed the glow plugs, and as soon as I turned it over the dash went dark and it didn't even try to turn over. At that point I couldn't get any of the dash lights to come on, so I assumed it was the battery as its 9 years old. I replaced the battery and the same thing happened. Again, warmed the glow plugs and tried to turn it over, nothing, and the dash lights went out again. I removed the key, reinserted it and wiggle the key around in the ignition and the dash lights came back on. Tried turning the headlights on and the dash cut out again. Repeated the key process and was able to get the dash lights on again.

Is assuming the ignition may be the problem a correct assumption? I can see that being one of the problems as after wiggling the key around the dash lights come back on, but the fact that its not even turning over makes me think it something related to the starter or alternator. The headlight switch cutting out the dash also makes me think there is a short somewhere in the wiring because there's no reason the dash should go out after turning the lights on.

I'm trying to wrap my head around what the problem might be, but I'm no mechanic and this is my first time with a tractor of this size. Any input is appreciated.

 

[Soundguy]

Well.. some incorrect electrical terminology and thought processes aside.. lets backup.

hookup a known good battery. clean the electrical connections at the battery cable ends as well as where the bat cables hit the chassis and the start relay/solenoid.

while keying over, see if you have voltage on the start solenoid/relay, starter side as well as seeing if the V drops at the battery.

Also check for things like pto or clutch or tranny range levers. IE.. anything that needs to be in neutral, or disengaged to start.

now.. on that key. clean it with some contact cleaner, or even wd40 or brake cleaner. do some tests ont he back of the switch and ID the main power wire and then the individual circuits, like start, pre heat and run. verify them with the meter. ( or test lamp.. etc. )

at this point, leave the alternator out.. it's for charging the battery.. not starting the tractor... and PS.. if anything.. you have an open under your dash, vs a 'short' I'd bet.

Starter? you can pull it to test it on the bench.

post back.

 

[fried1765]

BGery:
Easiest/most likely solution:

Clean battery cable connection, and carefully inspect cable condition .... both ends!

 

[Btown]

Check battery connections. Make sure they are clean and tight. I had s loose positive on my 1920, it acted very similar

 

[trmechapt]

Be sure to unbolt the ground cable from the frame and clean there.
Gary

 

[Btown]

Be sure to unbolt the ground cable from the frame and clean there. Gary

Be careful with that one. You may want to spray some penetrating oil on that one and let it set in. I saw mine was a little rusty. Put a socket on it and it just broke off. Luckily there was two more bolts close by to put the ground to on my 1920.

 

[TMB1320]

Wiggle the key, to me is your red flag. Sounds like your ignition switch has some internal contact issues.
Some troubleshooting with an ohmmeter on the switch contacts with the battery disconnected will reveal
the fault.

 

[Soundguy]

No response from the op in over a week now...