Hi...I am new to the forum and to Ford tractors. I am having an issue that seems to be insufficient fuel to the carb fuel bowl. I have read many posts for guidance and have not been able to implement a fix. The tractor starts easily and runs for a few seconds before it quits. An attempt to restart it immediately fails (spark is present). After a min. it will restart and run a few seconds. This issue began after I had added 5 gal. of new fuel and moved the tractor to my shed. It sat for a couple of weeks and this issue started. Cleaned the carb and sediment bowl, no change. Pulled the tank and drained it, cleaned fuel shut-off valve, the fuel line, and the carb again. No change(did find some contaminants on the tank shut off screen and in sediment bowl). Pulled the tank again, cleaned it and coated inside with "Red Kote" cleaned fuel line(choke cleaner and blew it out),increased float level in bowl while cleaning carb this time. Now it runs for a min. or so before it stops. Prior to this last step, I had pulled the tank and eliminated the fuel shut-off and sediment bowl and fed fuel directly via pipe fittings and rubber fuel line into carb. No change. Does anyone know what the orifice size should be in the float valve seat? Any input would be appreciated. This tractor ran OK when I first got it but there was some indication of an issue with increased throttle position.
1963 2000 134 ci fuel supply issue
- Thread starter Lube?
- Start date
John0829
Platinum Member
You have eliminated the fuel system components so I am going to go with it IS NOT the fuel system, run a wire directly from the battery to the coil (hot wire it) and see if it still dies after a minute. I am going to guess the problem is the ignition switch, ignition resistor or wiring is bad. Make sure the spark is blue and snappy when the engine dies, yellow won't work.
More good fuel systems have been screwed up because of electrical issues. But another thing you can try on your fuel system if you want to confirm it is not the problem, remove the drain plug from the bottom of the carb bowl to make sure fuel is present in the carb when it dies.
The orifices size of the needle and seat and all jets really should not be tinkered with, they are already properly sized for the engine UNLESS someone has managed to mount the wrong carb on the engine at some time in the past which would be somewhat difficult because of the governor and throttle linkages.
Thanks for your input. I still believe fuel supply is the issue. I have squirted fuel into the carb intake while it was running and it continued to run until I stopped feeding it the extra fuel. Is the float valve seat orifice size that critical, I am not talking about the idle or main jet sizes.
I will attempt to by-pass the ignition switch. This machine has been converted to 12 volts with the resister dropping voltage to 6 for the ignition. Also note I discovered that the previous owner was using a 12 volt coil on the 6 volt ignition. Put a new 6 volt coil on it, no change. the ignition has been converted to an electronic system, replacing the points and condenser(but I don't know if it is the 6 or 12 volt kit), only heaven knows if you get my meaning.
I will attempt to by-pass the ignition switch. This machine has been converted to 12 volts with the resister dropping voltage to 6 for the ignition. Also note I discovered that the previous owner was using a 12 volt coil on the 6 volt ignition. Put a new 6 volt coil on it, no change. the ignition has been converted to an electronic system, replacing the points and condenser(but I don't know if it is the 6 or 12 volt kit), only heaven knows if you get my meaning.
John0829
Platinum Member
If it has been converted to EI then it must run on 12V, safest bet on the coil is to replace it with a NAPA IC14SB that does not require a resistor. I would suggest that if you have the points and condenser putting them back in to be sure the EI is not the problem. Putting squirting more fuel in the intake makes a rich mixture that can/will fire on a weak spark.
One thing I just remembered, a few years ago there were problems with the needle and seat in rebuild kits. The kits came with a needle with a rubber tip and they would hang up. Sometimes closed but most times open. Maybe the carb was rebuilt with this type needle put in.
One other thing, if you have any rubber hose or in line filter in the line from the tank to the carb get rid of it and replace the line with steel from the tank to the carb. 1/4" brake line is perfect for the job just getting the bends right without pinching the tubing can be tough.
One thing I just remembered, a few years ago there were problems with the needle and seat in rebuild kits. The kits came with a needle with a rubber tip and they would hang up. Sometimes closed but most times open. Maybe the carb was rebuilt with this type needle put in.
One other thing, if you have any rubber hose or in line filter in the line from the tank to the carb get rid of it and replace the line with steel from the tank to the carb. 1/4" brake line is perfect for the job just getting the bends right without pinching the tubing can be tough.
toolslinger
Silver Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2013
- Messages
- 135
- Location
- NJ / PA
- Tractor
- 2x Case 646, 2x 8N, MF202, JD300, Case 444, MF 135, JD 140
Does the 2000 carb have an inlet screen in the carb like the 8N? I know you said you cleaned the carb, but if I didn't know it was there, I wouldn't have pulled the elbow on the 8N I just did... It was packed with grit.
Do you get a solid stream of fuel from the carb drain plug?
Do you get a solid stream of fuel from the carb drain plug?
The electronic ignition kits come in 6 or 12 volt, so that is still a potential issue. I will try to verify the spark is good. The float valve does have the neoprene tip. The first time I had carb apart, I noticed that the small retaining wire that secures the valve to the float was missing, so I added one that should prevent it from hang-up.
The zenith carb does have a very fine screen above the sediment bowl. I have cleaned it many times now. No drain plug, but I seem to have good flow when I disconnect the sediment bowl from carb.
fordcomanche
Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2009
- Messages
- 45
Were you able to get your fuel issue resolved? About 20yrs ago, I had a similar situation occur after replacing the fuel strainer and mounting bolt at the carb.
The replacement strainer and bolt were the generic replacements sold in the chain tractor stores for Ford.
After installing the new strainer, the tractor would only run for a short time and then starve for fuel.
It turned out that the inner recess fuel "groove"of the new strainer did not align with the fuel hole in the mounting bolt. It would only let a little fuel trickle thru slowly and the motor would quickly run out of fuel and die.
If you recently replaced the strainer and/or bolt, or if the strainer orientation is different from original, you might want to check that the strainer inner groove and bolt hole are in alignment
Heres some pics that show the difference I found on my the two strainers and the fuel mounting bolt holes. The two mounting bolts have hole locations that are visibly quite different.
Hope this helps
The replacement strainer and bolt were the generic replacements sold in the chain tractor stores for Ford.
After installing the new strainer, the tractor would only run for a short time and then starve for fuel.
It turned out that the inner recess fuel "groove"of the new strainer did not align with the fuel hole in the mounting bolt. It would only let a little fuel trickle thru slowly and the motor would quickly run out of fuel and die.
If you recently replaced the strainer and/or bolt, or if the strainer orientation is different from original, you might want to check that the strainer inner groove and bolt hole are in alignment
Heres some pics that show the difference I found on my the two strainers and the fuel mounting bolt holes. The two mounting bolts have hole locations that are visibly quite different.
Hope this helps
