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I just found out my Troy-Bilt Bronco was made in 2012.!!! Had a small issue when the 2 tiny screws that hold the carburetor butterfly on came loose and got sucked into the head.. It never quit running.!! As a matter of fact it ran WIDE OPEN

Lift pump or clogged vent in the cap.. Next time u notice the level going down in the bowl, reach up and unscrew the tank cap and see it it comes back up..

Low mileage.. they give salesman new cars to drive for exposure..and then they get turned in at 10-20k miles to be sold as “used”..

Sorry Cal, that’s all I got..

If it’s got tail lights, check them to make sure they lite up when the pedal is mashed. No tail lights = no cruise..

DONT FORGET… It takes OIL inside the pump.!! Most people don’t know that. The “FILL” is the 15/16 nut on top.. The “DRAIN” is 1/2 screw on the bottom.. And the “FULL” is 1/2 plug on the side. I’d be happy to go thru it for u guys.. Seeing that’s not the correct use for that pump.. YOU MUST MAKE...

Gsk kit is a 506805. Break down is in my head.. lol

That is a SIMMS pump.. The small part is the center (valve) of the delivery valve.. It comes as an assembly.. Valve and body.. HOW did he get to it.?? U need a special splined socket.. U definitely need it to torque the holder back down..

I received one on another forum..

Yup.. oring is hard and flat.. I’d be happy to fix that for u.. u can contact me directly at: my screen name at aoldotcom U can not fix it on the machine.. if u loosen the 4 fasteners, all the guts WILL fall out.!! There is a nut and washer holding the pump drive shaft to the drive gear.. u...

Take the side cover off..

It seems to be a common problem.. Google: Satoh beaver injection pump

I can remember PAY PHONES ON THE INTERSTATE.. Mom broke down once and sent ME walking until I found one.. she gave me A DIME to phone home to get DAD to come get us.. The pay phone didn’t work properly so I walked back to the car.. Mom gave me ANOTHER DIME and told me to “go back, call the...

U have to remember, THOSE r assembly marks.. they aren’t going to line up every time.. that being said, the pump and it’s drive gear WILL line up at compression stroke #1 cyl.. Inorder to find that, you’ll either need to find a viewing window to the flywheel and rotate the engine until u can...

I’m thinking it’s a PFR injection pump.. It bolts down on its 4 corners in its own housing..?? You should do some research before trying to get it out..

One major problem with that style pump is, nobody takes the shut off solenoid out FIRST.. it bends the plunger on the solenoid and buggers up the end of the pump housing.. Try removing the solenoid and see if the problem solves itself..

If u can run it BY HAND AT THE INJECTION PUMP.. then it’s the cables..

If it’s running away, cut off the air or fuel.. The problem could be in the injection pump.. it’ll need to come up and out..

Yes there is an oring on the shaft right below the “basket” it basically seals that area to the drive hub & locks the basket to the shaft when force is applied from the “tomb stone”.. There r 2 sizes of orings that go on the shaft depending on which wt cage u have.. It sounds like u have a...

I got tired of looking and buying calking guns.. I hang them up now so they’re in plain sight.. I now have 5.. lol

Thank u, it makes much more sense now.. Look to the left side of the inlet bolt, down towards the bottom mounting flange.. There might be a set of 5 numbers.. post them. If they aren’t there, look at the left SIDE of the pump mounting flange.. there might be a name plate.. DO NOT SCRAPE IT.!! &...

I’m confused.. Your title says PUMP but your description says INJECTORS.. The injectors are in the head, at the other end of the steel lines from the pump.. If your asking about the guts in the pump.?? You’ll have a better chance in buying a whole unit..

U gotta wire wheel/sandblast those weights.. especially in the cut, where the washer and sleeve ride.. That “gummy stuff” will only get worse and slow down the gov reaction.. Good luck

Being the manager in a “Dollar Store” is my dream job… “Uh, price check on X”.. “Uh, it’s a dollar”.. Easiest job in the world.!!!

Sorry, my mistake.. I was talking about the inj pump.. Pull it back out and check the cam lobe in the engine that operates it. & while the inj pump is out, make sure the roller on the bottom of the inj. pump has spring tension on it.. It’s possible that if the pump has sat on the shelf, the...

So u changed the pump.?? And still have the problem.?? Common sense tells me, it’s not the pump.. Take the pump back out and check the lobes on the camshaft that drives the pump..

I sent a fella in need, a spring and piston for a pump… THAT was a week ago last Thursday.!! It says it’s in Atlanta.. for a 10 days.!!?? (USPS)

Anyone remember: The King and His Court.?? Fast pitch softball team..

Check the engine side of the mounting flange..for a weep hole.

U see the “bump-out” on the mounting flange between the top nut and bottom nut.?? That’s where a weep hole is on the other side of the pump (engine side).. Reach under or over the pump and see if u can feel it. Normally they’re on the side of the name plate so u can see it..

There should be a cut out in the engine block to allow the control rack pin on the pump to pass.. otherwise it’ll come up about an inch and stop.. The cut out is very close to shut off.. you can use the throttle to move the pump rack.. A lot of times, when the pump is forced, u end up bending...

Cheapest I found was $650.00.!!!

If u can gain access to the inj. pump while it’s still in the engine, do that and make sure the control rack is moving left and right.. I’m assuming it’s a “PFR” pump.?? Also know as a “cassette” pump..

The cam lobe always compress’s the roller or push rod slightly.. So when u pulled it away from the main pump, it changed position of the plunger rod.. possibly moving the rod to a good position where the seal can seal on the rod.?? If u don’t follow the diagnostic directions we can’t rule things...

Jeff, how right u are.!! I rarely used safety glasses when using my wire wheel UNTIL a single wire shot out and stuck in my lower eyelid.!! If I had held my head just an inch lower, it would’ve caught me straight in the eye ball.!! I put them on religiously now.. I wear them so much, I forget to...

Sorry, it’s not 2A.. it’s 2K.. THATS WHY u don’t scrape a friggin name plate.!!!

Check ur prvt msg..

No & No.. No “hard parts” are available.. only gaskets..

There is no kit.. u have to order everything separately by the part number.. Not fun.. especially if u don’t know the pump. If your thinking about removing the side cover, DONT TRY IT.. unless you have a #1 Phillips head bit and a hand impact driver and hammer.. The screws are VERY TIGHT and...

No.. That’s a KIKI PES PUMP.. DO NOT SCRAPE THE NAME PLATE.. EVER..

I think being in PA your gonna NEED a cab.. Trying to maintain a road in Dec./Jan. is not gonna be fun in an open station.!!! Good luck with your searching..

Isn’t that the series that has the brittle gears in the inj pump that break in the s/o position..?? If your still waiting on a switch.. in the meantime, go get a remote starter button.. You’ll probably have to jump a couple of safety switch’s to get it to start.. neutral safety switch, operator...

The pump was made by: Diesel Kiki which is now: Zexel.. If u do a Google search for your pump number and leave off the last digit or two, it’ll probably come up.. (PES2A*****)

After checking/changing the fluids and getting a hot battery.. Make sure all the levers are in neutral .. Put the throttle between 1/2 & full..and spin the engine .. If it doesn’t fire up after a couple of tries, loosen the steel lines AT THE INJECTORS and try again.. U should see fuel squirting...

Has it sat for long.?? The pumps control rack is probably stuck.. U have to remove it to replace or repair it so, take it out and verify the rack is stuck.. U can do more harm than good if u try to free it up.. U can contact me thru here in a prvt msg or contact me directly at my screen name at...

How do u know it’s bad.?

On the “back-side” of the lift pump, there will be either a roller or a plunger that rides on the pumps cam lobe.. Behind that will be a seal or oring.. u can just dunk/spray that area..

The lift/supply pump is bolted to the side of the inj pump.. it’s the pump with the hand primer on it.. it has a seal or oring on the back side that’s facing the inside of the pump.. You can remove it, block off the outlet side and put air on the inlet side and dunk it in water or spray it down...

The inj pump control rack is probably stuck from old fuel. If it has a side plate right below the inj pump, remove it to gain access to the inj pump control rack and try to move it back and forth.. Bump the engine to get it on other cylinders and try moving it back and forth.. Don’t force it to...

I Googled Mahindra 5500 feed pump and it popped right up.,

There’s 2 places they can leak from..& yes, they are orings and a copper delivery valve gasket.. The orings and gskt are specific to the manufacturer.. I can handle that for you.. Feel free to contact me directly, either thru a prvt msg or email..

It sounds to me that the feed pump took a dump.?? U should be able to HEAR IT RUNNING when U turn the key to ON, without starting it.

I’m grumpy anyway, so please don’t take it personally.. I usually get on these forums after a long day and THAT doesn’t help.. I have to keep reminding myself that not everyone has 40 years experience under their belt.. If u click on a person’s screen name, it’ll take u to another pg that has...

Now that u know what ur looking for, do a search for Ls180 in the search function for this site.. Like I said, it’s been done successfully from people ON THIS SITE.. & even tho u might not “read” all the answers, you’ll get their contact info and bother them directly.,(lol)

When asking for help u need to give all the pertinent information.. You’re swapping a DP200 to a DPA..give pump #’s.. ON A LS180 SKID STEER.. It’s been done successfully countless times.. But they’re using a pump from a 4000 Ford, drive gear and lines.. I STILL NEED the pump #’s off the DPA pump..

That’s a CAV pump… not a Bosch..

Let’s start with some pictures of the pumps or at least some pump #’s.. I gotta know what I’m working with..

Although I pumped the primer bulb with little to no change, a CAV feed pressure is only 1-3 psi.. Feed pressure to a Bosch in-line pump is 25 psi to feed all the pumping plungers.. WHAT KIND OF CAV cost $3850.??!!!

Wow.. that’s one dead Deere..

Linda Carter wearing her, “Weasel Squeezers”.. lol

Lol.. more wars have been started and still going on today because your invisible guy doesn’t like my invisible guy.. lol

Those gears are “captured” for the most part.. meaning u gotta try pretty hard to move them.. It’s worth a try to reinstall the pump..

I’ve got 1 sitting in my yard RIGHT NOW.. very low hrs.. RPM’s drop 1000 at the slightest incline and blows smoke.. It autta be fun, just by the look under the hood.. half the engine has to come apart just to see anything.!!

I’m in South Carolina.. not a huge need for heat, but when u need it, U NEED IT.. I work on a bench 99.9% of the time.. so no real need to heat the whole thing.. I have an electric space heater down low for my feet and legs.. A propane DUAL HEAD heater w a pedestal fan behind it, on low, to...

Is yours missing.?? Both pump AND injectors.??

If fuel is getting TO the injectors and the injectors are squirting fuel into the engine, it should show signs in the exhaust.. black/gray/white smoke.. If your handy with tools, you could remove one of the injectors and hook it back up OUTSIDE the engine and crank it over to SEE if it’s...

When u take your current age, double it, and u don’t expect to live THAT LONG..

If it’s a VE pump, the front seal is a known weak spot.. If it’s an injector, it’ll be flooding the cylinder with fuel and the engine will be black smoking like a freight train.. If your system has a supply/lift/feed pump that’s bolted to the side of the engine and runs off a cam.. u could check...

If they have a bunch of 2 stroke small engines, weed eaters, chainsaws, edgers.. with the 2 stroke oil laying around, they may have use IT in the mower.. U could change the oil to the correct viscosity and add some “snake oil”.. & see how it acts.. Good luck

What have u tried.??

Crazy.. the dead battery syndrome in our generator hits all of us.. I get around it by having a “jump box” at the ready.. Also found if u disconnect the leads to the battery when stored, the charge lasts a lot longer.. or it might be my imagination..

They have a “low oil” shut down on them.. If it has a screw-in dipstick, do not screw it in when checking the level..

Lol.. The diesel that makes it here, which isn’t much, goes in my parts washer.. It seems to work well with the regular solvent..

Don’t know your age.. it would make a difference in my/your decision making.. Neighbor offered me his land before he put it on the market.. I turned it down because I would have to take out a 15 year note..& didn’t wanna work that long.. He sold it for 30k more than he would have gotten from...

That isn’t the directions I gave you.. Leave it out..to see if it’ll shut off..!!

Thank u for trying and posting the results.!!

Do what u have to do to put the rack in the middle.. Use a rubber band or a screwdriver.. The fuel coming out of the tube should be a stream.. Then as you’re turning the engine it slows to a drip.. KEEP TURNING until it slows way down but not off.. THATS WHERE port closure is.. Good luck

I have a big trash can, 55 gallon with a trash bag in it.. All cardboard goes in it.. When it’s full, I carry the bag to the burn pit and empty the contents.. A light dusting of gasoline and WHOOSH, up she goes.. burns just long enough to polish off a cold beverage.. Head back to the porch, put...

Idk if it’s written in the manual or not.. but u have to have the pump control rack in a certain position.. All the way 1 way and it’s in shut off.. All the way the other way and it’s in max fuel.. U have to set it in the middle. Did u take out the center of the delivery valve & remove the...

That’s correct.. The 1st fitting coming off the top cvr on the inj pump.. If u removed it correctly, u should be looking at A HOLE in the t cvr.. NOW start the engine..

One other thing to check now that u got it starting.. The 1st fitting coming out of the top cover.. It has a spring and glass ball in it.. if it gets clogged or stuck from dirt/rust, the engine will start and shut down, over and over and over.. The premise is: if u can’t get fuel OUT, u can’t...

The spec on the noz nut is 50-55 ftlbs.. Do not put a different injector in the engine.. Use Google and type in the noz number.. it comes up.. $22.50 each..

Nozzles are available on eBay.. Are u torquing the noz nut.? Are u testing it correctly.. it’s a throttling pintle type.. it won’t atomize the fuel if slowly pushing the handle on your pop tester..

bmaverick.. u got the makins of a good size meth lab.!! Lol

The VE pump is fuel lubricated.. not engine oil.. Use my screen name at aoldotcom to get to my home email.. & send your address.

Yes, that’s a ve.. I can send u the oring that’s behind the plate, if u like..

Could you take a wide shot of the pump.?? I’m thinking it’s a Bosch VE but I’m having a hard time relating to the picture..

Sorry buddy, ur on ur own..

I don’t think I have a 2 cyl core inorder to get a wire but the pins cross from several cyl pumps. U might be able to snip a wire from a 3 cyl.?? Lemme know thru prvt msg. if u get stuck..

Pin = 124950-51450 Wire = 174307-51460 Yanmar p#’s

I can help u.. gimme a few minutes to look up the p#..

Gotta have the pump # off the name plate to look it up.. (3233f651)

“U” did it and it cost u $700.00.?? THATS not good.. I’d be happy to give the poster an estimate..

The advance mechanism would make sense.. The thing about those pumps is, once u fix 1 leak, another will pop up.. Most shops won’t touch a “minor repair”.. on a DPA pump.. & as long as you have it off, go thru it and be done..

As far as I know, there’s only 2 pumps that went on that mdl tractor.. a SIMMS IN-LINE PUMP or a CAV DPA ROTARY PUMP..& neither one has any adjustments under it..

U can go to your local junk yard and get some “U” channels.. & customize them as needed..

how about a pic.. I’m lost

Total sense.. Sorry I missed that in the original post.. That would definitely point to transmission problems, or whatever NH is calling it..

Is the rpm going down.??

I think we can all agree that: SLAVERY… Gets stuff done.!!

On a JDB there’s 2 wires.. 1 is a vent wire and the other is a keeper .. The vent wire usually gets stuck but the retainer is free.. Let me know what ur measurement is if u haven’t put it back together yet..

It depends on what inj pump u have.. Some are mechanical and some are fly by wire.. And who put it on..

It definitely sounds like a filter/supply problem.. They’ll run all day at low idle but as soon as you call for more fuel, it dies.. I’m not sure how your tank is set up(filter screen) but while your changing the filter, remove the tank cap and “back blow” from the filter to the tank.. just...

The lift pump runs off the cam shaft.. u won’t get any fuel from it unless the pump cam shaft is turning..

Your gonna remove it anyway, so check the screens in the lift pump.. If it comes apart, disassemble it and clean any screens in it.. And if all that looks ok, THEN order one.. Good luck

I’ve never done this so take it for what it’s worth.. Try an electric timer.. like those for your lites.. The heater might pull to many amps tho.. so you’ll have to do some research.. Nothing worse than getting up and going outside in the cold, just to come back in, in 10 minutes.,( plug in heater)

Some solenoid plungers will come out.. then u can use it as a plug.. Or remove it and install a cap plug of the appropriate size.. I would stay away from sticking things in the hole..other than a cap plug.

Ha ha ha!!! Screw u guys.. I’m goin home..

On that mdl tractor, does it have a cover plate right below the inj pump.?? Usually has 4-10mm bolts holding it on.. U can remove the plate and see if the pump control rack is moving or if it’s stuck.. OR.. if u have the shut off solenoid that screws into the inj pump hsg., u can unscrew the...

Must be “run-flats”..??

Yup.. as MTGREEN ASKED, MAKE SURE u have fuel UP TO the inj pump.. put the throttle in the wide open throttle position and crank the engine.. U can leave the steel lines off of the pump. Let us know what happens.. Good luck

20 ftlbs..

Lol… I got a pump delivered like that the other day.. It was a 2 cyl pump that’s no bigger than a pk of cigarettes.!! I contacted the customer and he said UPS packed it at one of their shipping stations.. It was ridiculous..!!!

Whatcha mean “wish”.?? U act like they’re 200.00.. The 17-18” is 13.00 (inside track club) Lol.. go get 3… 1 for work. 1 for home shop. 1 for anybody that needs to use it..(loan out) Lol..

Ahh.. I see now.. I’ve personally never timed one but have seen similar pumps timed in the same fashion.. If u look at the mounting bolts.. u should be able to see where the 3 bolts were tightened up on the pump mounting flange..?? Hopefully he didn’t go thru the front of the engine to “time...

???.. what..??

Man Oh Man.!!! If u can imagine all the TINY parts inside different injection pumps & injectors, that magnet saved my bacon 100’s of times.!!! A lot of the parts are part of an assembly, and not sold separately.!! It sure is a life saver..

Spray and Pray…

Have u tried starting it with the throttle in the hi idle position.?? (WOT)

For future reference, the bleed screw on the inj pump is next to the name plate..double screw.. 5/16 head into a 7/16 body. Loosen the 5/16 and crank the engine until solid fuel is seen with no air and tighten.

U probably SHOULD put a shut off below the tank.. Those inj pumps are known to leak fuel at the top cover, and with gravity fed inj pumps, the fuel will continue to leak until the tank is empty.. obviously that’s an extreme case but u get the idea.. If u put in a shut off tap, get one that has a...

They both need to “loosen up the binders” & give us a peek “under the tarp”.. 😊

That’s what I was talking about.. I used mine just this morning.. my neighbor had battery problems, turned out the alternator wasn’t charging his battery.. That tester has a charging checker also.. They sit around and collect dust, but when u need it, u sure are glad u have it..

Throttle wide open is how I would do it too.. Do a search for: “battery load tester”..

“Bump off idle” simply means, raise the rpm’s/throttle off of low idle position before starting.. Hope these suggestions help get you going.. Here in the U.S. we have a discount tool store that sells tools mainly from overseas manufacturers.. You can buy a battery load tester for $25.00.. which...

They say, dryer sheets do the trick..?? I saw on one of the car shows, there’s a plug-in device that’s guaranteed to keep them out of your building..& it’s sized to your building.. Sorry but don’t remember the name..

I don’t get an Off-Season.. By the time planting season is done down here in S.C, it’s winter up North, and all of the small tractors and diesel snow blowers & generators that sat w/o additive in them try to start for the season, DONT.. I can’t remember the last time I “planned” a vacation.!!

A gallon.?? That won’t even get over the stand pipe in the tank.!! Lol Put at least 5 gallons in it.. The shut off is at the bottom of the tank.. I would pull the line at the supply pump and back blow it w air to the tank, incase it’s clogged w debris..

Better check the oring again..??

How did I get elected to prevent wild fires.?? And who changed it from forest fires.??

Did u happen to see the slot on the barrels u removed.?? They HAVE TO SLIDE ONTO A LEAD PIN.. If u just dropped them in and tightened up the “top nut” u sheared the pins off.. U might as well stop now… There’s nothing in the pump u can repair, other than a leak..

Yes.. “hot” batteries are a must..a booster box is a life saver.!! And I’ll betcha the oil is like syrup at those temps.. change to lower grade for winter.. Basically, do everything as previously suggested.. lol Only thing I can suggest is, bump the throttle OFF OF IDLE..3/4 is usually enough...

When ur lifting up the plungers.. PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH WAY THE CUT FACES..

If u flip it over and go thru the bottom.. remove the pin, roller tappets.. PAY ATTENTION TO THE TIMING SHIMS UNDER EACH.!! Then CAREFULLY lift out the pumping plungers.. Look at the “cut” (helix).. If u see score marks, they’re bad..

There no way in he!! it’s gonna start.. It’s sat to long.. there are pumping plungers deep in the pump that will be stuck after sitting that long.. Your gonna do more harm than good if u keep trying to start it.. If u wanna contact me directly, feel free..I can help u get it off..

Did u take the return connector OFF THE TOP COVER & try to start it.?? How long has this sat.?

Do u have the original/another pump.?

Yes.. maybe there was a problem w the original pump housing (cracked) and that one got used and nobody swapped name plates.??

Yes u r correct.. but I haven’t a clue how that happened.

That sure looks like a 4 cyl from where I’m sitting..

For reference, the 1st # after the letters is the # of cyls.. DBGVC 431/433 would be a 4 cyl pump..

Hold the bus.. The inj pump name plate that u posted.. DBGVC 633-5AJ is a 6 cyl pump.. THAT won’t work on a 4 cylinder engine..

Thank u for posting the inj pump name plate.!! That is indeed for a 4020.. But if was running the engine, until it stopped..then.. Let me help u diagnose it.. Ur gonna hafta start w some charged batteries.. very important.. Look at the top cover on the pump.. there is a brass fitting that the...

I forget about nicknames.. When I was working we had the AMAZING BROTHERS.. There was TOTALLY, COMPLETELY, and I was FK’N.. We pulled of some AMAZING things ..

Pull the injectors out of it.. THAT will bypass any decompression issues.. U could pour some penetrating oil into the cylinders.. either just for lubrication or to break the rings free.. Let it sit.!!! U can remove the starter and try to get it to move by turning the flywheel.. Good luck

(y)

Once in a blue moon will my usps guy CRAM a box in my roadside mailbox.. But 99% of the time he comes to the house with my packages.. I’m on a first name basis with my UPS & USPS delivery folks..

How many of u have gotten a pkg from Amazon where the tape has pulled from the cardboard.?? They must save millions, scrimping on tape.!!!

I had a friend that installed a starter/electrical cut off switch in his custom car.. He put the switch in the cigarette lighter.. pushed in, the car would start.. In its normal position, it looked normal.. But then again, cars nowadays don’t have ashtrays..

I’m trying to figure out WHY the electric pumps are failing.. R they cheap 10.00 pumps from China.?? R the pistons seizing up from lack of lubrication.?? Or the diaphragm tearing for the same reason.??

The inj pump only needs 6-8 psi to operate correctly.. The supply pumps seem rather cheap to buy.. Do u run the tank dry often.? THAT would ruin a pump before it’s time..

How about people who send you a Prvt Msg that won’t contact you directly.. I like using my home email to converse about their problems.. Otherwise I have to log in here 8 different times throughout the day to answer a question..or help with diagnostics.. it’s a pain.. My limit, starting today is...

Speaking of that.. People who simply put an engine mdl or tractor model, with no hint of a problem. I refuse to open them.!!! So if u want MY HELP, you had better put a slight hint of your problem in the header..

I “ALWAYS KNOW” when Fed-up is delivering to the house.. the BOOM BOOM BOOM of her stereo alerts me.. ITS LOUD.!!

Doesn’t do it on mine.. I have mine screwed down on my table top work bench.. 4 of’m..& they’ve served me well..

I use the HF magnetic bar…. Just the bar, the one they use to give away free.. Now I think it’s 2.00.??

Ain’t that the truth.!!!

“Ask your Dr. if xxx if right for you”.. Shouldn’t the Dr. be telling ME.?? It’s just ridiculous.!!! The medication that r being pushed on tv have killed more people than cigarettes ever have..

Who’s idea was it to change, Smoky “the” Bear to Smoky Bear.?? It just sounds stupid..

I’d be happy to help David.. The MF pump is lubed by fuel. If it’s been sitting, chances are hi that the pumping plungers and mv are stuck.. If the inj pump pumps fuel and the injectors are stuck closed, the fuel pressure backs up and seizes the inj pump..$$ IDK about the other, I’d have to see...

A portable outboard motor tank makes an excellent auxiliary fuel supply.. Outfit it with a squeeze ball and your in business.!!

U didn’t mention the engine or tractor Mdl.. I asked more questions on the Tractor Forum thread.

Down here in SC we have sand for soil.. so “pushing a tree” is the norm here to get 1 up to temp. & broken in..

I just adjust my mirror to reflect the hi beam back at’m. That usually works..

Let me know when you’re ready and I’ll send you a seal..

While we’re on the subject.. ITS NOT BRAKES THEN SIGNAL.!! It’s SIGNAL THEN BRAKES.!! Flippin idiots hit the brakes, come to a stop in the middle of the road THEN signal they’re turning.. I wear my horn out on these idiots..

That’s hard to say.. u can check it to be sure with a test lite or multi meter.. Most of them I deal with are “ETR” energized to run solenoids.. which means 12v will be constant when running..(on) If u like, u can send a pic to my email.. it’s my screen name at aoldotcom..

U don’t have to replace it inorder for the tractor to start, JUST UNPLUG IT.. & replace the fuse..

Yes, they are rebuildable.. I do it daily.. If you’ve never been in one and are dead set on it, download a DPA work shop manual.. Don’t even attempt it w/o a manual.. If u need help getting it off the tractor, give me a shout. U can contact me directly at my screen name at aoldotcom

On what.??

Or the ones that wanna race u once u decide to pass them.!!

Just 1 more thing to throw atcha.. I have seen with my own eyes.. injectors stuck open and allowing compression to flow thru the injectors and into the pump.. It’s not an old mechanics tale, lol

If the pump was as “goobered up” as u stated, it’s probably a good idea to get’m checked.. If after sitting, you get a bleed back situation.. it’s probably the lift/supply pump allowing the fuel to go back to the tank.??

Bosch VE pump.. don’t use shims.. Seeing it’s not keyed, it’s possible that the gear slipped.. Retime.. Pop off gear, degrease shaft and gear.. blow off.. install gear and use blue loctite on threads.. torque nut to 90 ftlbs.. Good luck

Is this a PFR pump.?? Otherwise known as a cassette pump.?? Sits in its own hole and operated by a separate cam.?? Did u swap all the shims off of the old pump onto the new.??

All u have to do is LOOSEN ALL THE LINES AT THE INJECTORS a couple of turns.. crank the engine until fuel SQUIRTS OUT.. THAT tells u all the air has worked out of the system..

“Showing wet” is not the same as squirting out.. U also said “individually”.. Which too isn’t the same as loosen ALL the lines..at the injectors..

Fuel shut off solenoid is on the back of the inj pump.. in front of the injector lines that hook to the pump

So u loosened ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS and cranked the engine until fuel squirted out.. THEN tightened them.?? MBy chance did u shut the fuel off at the tank and forgot to turn it back on.??

The only way to drain it is loosen the back cover..8, 10mm bolts.. I don’t think the juice is worth the squeeze.. Just add oil.. any excess will flow out the vent in the back of the pump..

NO.!!! That’s holding the fulcrum lever in place.. DO NOT LOOSEN IT.. U don’t have a drain on that pump..

Check ur prvt msgs..

I rebuild them.. the gov is only half the problem.. It’s likely the rack is stuck wide open possibly from a stuck plunger.. It’s really nothing to fool with. It’ll end up costing more money if u monkey with it.. It takes me HOURS to clean one up.. I’ve spent as much as 4 hours, just cleaning up...

I hadta use that stuff today.. I had to separate 2 screws that would not budge.. I hit it w heat, no go.. I broke out the KNOCK’ER LOOSE.. sprayed it down and kept myself busy for about 15-20 minutes.. Tried to separate w just 2 wrenchs.. no go.. I hit it again w some heat and they broke loose...

My electric company pays 50.00 for old refrigerators.!!! I guess that’s 1 way to keep’m outta the woods..

Denchen hit on some very good points, ALL worth checking out .. As far as the turbo goes, it’s very easy to check.. pull the rubber boot off the intake side..(aluminum housing) and look to see if any oil is present.. Next grab the compressor wheel and see if it’ll move side to side or up and...

The cover is held on w 4 5/16 screws. It’s sealed w a square cut oring found in the kit.. The banjo bolts that r leaking r sealed w a teflon crush washer, 1 on each side of the connector.. they 2 come in the kit.. Ur probably better off taking it off and sending it out…

Hey, thanks.. I never thought of THAT.!! I’ll be cuttin wood in no time.. thanks again..

I got a Dewalt battery powered chainsaw LAST CHRISTMAS.. the print for the directions are SO FN SMALL I can’t read them.. I “tried” to just put a battery in it and pull the trigger but nothing happened..(lol) I STILL haven’t had it outside yet and it’s almost 12 months old.!!!

That’s a DPA pump previously made by CAV.. Delphi now.. & yes, the kit is 7135-110.. Depending on where it’s leaking, it’s either a diy or it’s not..

People that leave their dogs tied up outside while at work (I’m assuming) and let them BARK FOR HOURS UPON HOURS..!! disturbing my peace and tranquillity..

Kool.. WD40 isn’t a very good penetrating oil..it has its place, don’t get me wrong.. Next time you’re in the hardware store, try to find some “KNOCK’ER LOOSE” I haven’t found anything that it wouldn’t break free.. Good luck and keep us updated..

THATS WHY your tractor won’t run.. the pump rack (slider) is stuck.. And now it’s stuck in the block because it won’t move.. Look down the sides of the pump and see if u can tell which way the rack is sticking out the farthest.. and try to pry it on that side. I hate to tell you to pry on...

If u push the pump back down, can u reach the pump rack.?? (Slider) Ur gonna have to move it to clear the housing..

Lol.. u posted as I was pushing the post button

Is the pin on the pump or the pump rack grabbing the side of the hole.?? If yes, u have to slide the control rack a smidge to clear the hole..

RockBC..your dog looks like he’s looking for the heater controls.. lol

Original Equipment Manufacturer

Just take it out and see if the control rack moves back and forth (slider) DO NOT FORCE IT.. there are tiny gears inside that WILL BREAK..if u force them.. And I’m just gonna put it out there for the world to see: I charge EXTRA if the customer has been in the pump before I get it.. It takes me...

Lol.. wishful thinking..