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Nah, I think this one is done. What was needed said is said. People can read and make their own informed opinions. But facts are there for all to read

They didn't "make" solar a 20 yr payback. Solar was already that or more. Til govt forced them to subsidize residential solar . That cost was passed onto all non solar customers. So non solar customers paid a lot more, solar customers were way over compensated. They just balancing the playing...

No, you stated your incorrect opinion twice. Sure, you are correct if everything is static, and the loader doesnt try and lift anything at all. Tractor just sitting there and you add weight to the rear tires.....sure....no weight gets added to the front axle. Now, get in the real world of...

BINGO

And most people DONT try and lift max weight intentionally. But it happens way more often than most think about. Say you have a light implement on the back....landscape rake, land plane, post hole digger, etc. And you go scoop into that pile of dirt or stone to try and snag a bucket load...

The pin is loosened to allow the half that is threaded to spin. The pin is re-installed. It does TWO things. First....yes it keeps it from spinning and changing the adjustment. But second....that is also how it is attached. Without that pin installed, the two halves of the stabilizer can simply...

Thats nice. How much you reckon it weighs? Are them R4's loaded?

No, I am not wrong. I am 100% correct in everything I said with exception to perhaps the exact weights. But the concept is accurate. There is no need for a pi$$ing match here. FACT: A bare tractor with NO ballast cannot come anywhere close to lifting the full rated load capacity of the loader...

Surprised your dealer cant tell you if they are the same. Looks like alot of the part numbers are the same

I do find that odd, since cat 2 specs are 32" for lowers. So its strange that 32" is at its max for narrowness. Couple of options.... 1. contact your dealer. Looks like some of those tractors had the more traditional pin-type stabilizer. See what the working range is on those and if you could...

Aparently no body reads the posts before replying. Everyone keeps repeating about not an equal amount of threads showing. It was addressed in post 11. Only ONE side of that type of stabilizer is even threaded.

Its NOT neutral when you factor the use of the front end loader. Ill give some examples with some round numbers and easy to follow Tractor.....MX6000....With loader and cab......lets call it a 6000# machine The matching loader is "capable" of lifting 2000#. However.....in its bare...

Actually loading the rear tires can increase the load the front axle sees

A landplane dragging a piece of fence sounds like what you are envisioning

The cab and tire ballast is NOT enough. Sure, it "might" be enough to keep the rear tires on the ground, but all you are doing is adding to the potential weight that the front axle and tires carry when you have a heavy load up front. But I think 1400-1800 or anything in between is gonna work...

Parts are expensive for all of them. I wouldnt say one is more than the next. I have a bobcat, I see no reason to avoid. Do you use facebook marketplace? I see them come and go everyday. I am always browsing but usually looking at the 35-50 class machines. But lately the market seems flooded...

Not much real world difference between the different brands of the same class. Paper specs are just paper specs. If a u17 cant or wont do something....a deere 17g, cat 301.7 or TB216 wont do it either. There are fan-boys of every manufacture....those that are color blind and say one is better...

ITs easy to test the couplers. Take the two that go to lift/lower and put them on curl. Take the two that are for curl and put them on lift/lower. Now see if curl works (but using lift/lower movement of the joystick) IF it does....that tells you the curl hoses and loader half of the quick...

First note....when it comes to mini-excavators they typically follow a "class" 17....1.7 metric tons. Approx 3800 lbs 26/27 class....2.7 metric tons Approx 6000 lbs 35 class.....3.5 metric tons Approx 7000lbs 50 class....5.0 metric tons....Approx 11000lbs Get the trend. Now look at some specs...

Have you considered an attachment for the rear. Like a box blade or a land plane?

You must have done that last night then? Because thats exactly what my first thought was this morning when I got up and saw that email. First thing I did was hop on here and checked my PM inbox and saw nothing. Thats when I posted this thread

I got an email wanting me to link their website or products. Email looks like it originated from TBN

4 / 25.4 = 0.1575" A hair bigger than 5/32" but now your talking hex-keys most likely if you are working with stuff that small. And with hex heys....about the only ones I will interchange are 8 and 5/16. Cause aint much worse than a rounded out hex-key or bolt

Yup, Id follow JD recommendations. I would definitely load the tires cause I doubt you bought a tractor that size to keep it light for "yard" work. Loading will help with traction and stability whether you have loader on of off. As far as the hitch....you can reduce that weigh if you have a...

Its a stretch to use those two interchangeably. On something that isnt super tight or rusted....sometimes I grab a 13mm if I see that wrench/socket before I see the half. Half is a TIGHT fit on some 13mm stuff and a good choice if your worried about rounding. But those two really "shouldnt" be...

Then hobby income shouldn't be taxed....plain and simple. If it's such a small amount in relation to the deductions..... Irs wants their cake and eat it too. Shouldn't work that way. If I spend $10000 on what they deem a hobby....and sell a few hundred bucks of stuff to continue supporting...

Its just to lower the deck. Allthough crossmembers arent over the tires so that thickness is negligable. 1/4" plate versus 1-1/2" lumber. Can lower the deck 1-1/4" and still maintain tire clearance. Same concept of "pierced" beam deckovers. Rather than the crossmembers being ON TOP of the...

That kinda seems like a load of crap. IRS: Your business is no longer profitable.....so please stop taking all the deductions for your hobby....but we still want to tax you on the income. That way, not only do you loose money all year....then you loose even more money when you pay us. Perhaps...

So if the you or the IRS declares it a hobby that looses money......what to do with the 1099? Kinda a catch 22. You get a 1099 and they want you to claim income....yet show that it looses money. Seems they only want you to claim it if it's profitable so they can cash in and not the other way...

Hence my confusion. A contractor renting an orchard and harvesting apples is paying the property owner....to pull stumps and clean up their own property?

I am no tax professional. But I question why the contractor is giving you a 1099? 1099's are for services in excess of $600. Not for goods or materials. If he is buying apples off of you, why is he issuing a 1099? If he spends more than $600 in fuel for his equipment to harvest and transport...

Not sure of that particular seal and material. Yes some seals need warmed in either hot oil or water to make them more pliable. But the repair is pretty straight forward. Keep tractor handy. Yes loosen gland nut (assuming its threaded) as step one before removing anything else. If you cant get...

Short answer is that there is no "set rule" for profitability. People often cite "3 outta 5 years".....or 4 outta 7, or once every three. I have heard alot....but its not black and white. You can actually show a loss for 7 years straight if you want and not even be a blip on the IRS radar. The...

Yea, I am guessing you twisted the timing rod/tube and nothing at all wrong with the actual cylinders Got any pics?

Need pics and more detail. The loose pole could indeed be the problem, because I believe the pole on the starter is used to basically distribute power to the rest of the tractor. IE: the starter pole is used as as the common distribution point instead of the battery terminal. So wiring issues...

Did I miss you say how big the mccormick is? How big is the bigger case that handled it fine? Tractor weight is the factor for safely handling a load. 400bu wagon loaded is probably in the 25000# range. We arent in real hilly area, but usually see farmers not exceed 3x. So for a 25000#...

The cross bar is flimsy because all it needs to do is keep the latches "timed" with one another when there is nothing attached. So you can hook up implements. If the two sides were NOT connected....due to internal drag on the cylinders never being perfectly matched, they would NEVER line up...

IT WAS caught under the cylinder barrel. Thats what prevented that side from retracting and forcing the other side to

Am I seeing a different video? It was only 16 seconds long and showed how to fix the problem?

Unlikely to bend a cylinder rod in tension

I'd definitaly plan on stacking the blocks on the concrete. They will stack nicer and wont settle or lean. While those blocks are big and heavy, they have a large footprint. 2x2x6 blocks that weigh almost 2-ton but have 12 sq ft of footprint. 4" of concrete is more than enough, especially if...

1-1/4" line sounds about right for a 450' run. And given good pressure/flow at frost free hydrant confirms that. My first concern is 3/4" then feeding the WHOLE house from that point on. But even that alone shouldnt cause any issues IF no one else is using water at the time you are trying to...

x3 whats the problem. People here are probably gonna be more useful than the manual anyway

Thats what I would have concluded as well....except two reasons. First, this is a tractor forum and in the context, we are discussing tandem axle trailers hauling tractors around. And second.....he said "Of couse on smaller trailers the tongue will be lighter" Sorry, it dont get much lighter...

I really hope to god that people towing tractors on this page....are doing so with ALOT more than 75-110lb of tongue weight. You are wrong by about a factor of 10x

Never had a tongue weight issue. You absolutly do NOT want negative or too little tongue weight. 10-15% is about right. And just about any trailer made today....even though you think is too much tongue weight....can be loaded just fine if the trailer is sized appropriately as well as the truck...

Different tasks. I have a mini excavator, so Im usually just moving loose material and grading. Spreading stone and back dragging. Teeth are not required, and even a hinderance on some of those tasks. On occasion when I do need to "dig" with the loader, I have never had any issues....but a...

It seems to be a middle ground amount. Just about every lawyer I have spoken with said its too small and they dont handle anything under 6-figures But its also a large enough amount to want a resolution. The amount of the mitigation bill is $19k. And "if" this was a covered loss, we would be...

I cannot find anything legally stating what you say. Even though it makes sense. So far I have not had any luck getting anywhere

I am battling a claim being denied by my insurance right now and am frustrated to say the least. This is not at my place, rather at a 3-unit apartment I own. Back in December I had a tenant call be because of an unusually high electric bill and it was discovered that the T&P valve on the water...

Were these pallet forks a SSQA type or bucket clamp on type?

Closed center hydraulics and power beyond are incompatible terms. Power beyond is what is needed on an open center system. Close center hydraulics use a variable displacement pump. IE: constant pressure, variable flow. So there would be no heat concerns using a remote and mechanically holding...

I dont follow that math? 100w bulb running for 24 hours is 2400w/h or 2.4kwh 2.4 x $0.32 dont equal $7.68 So what am I missing here? You have the decimal place a notch off

What is your average monthly usage? ANd how many kwh/month is the system supposed to produce? Hopefully you have been in contact with your power company and not just trusting the solar installer/sales pitch with regards to having a $0 bill. I am curious for future feedback in the months to...

Im talking about steel shingles, not whatever you referenced

IT will. Geometry. Go pick any implement in your stable that uses all 3 points on the 3PH. Hook it to the tractor, and lower it all the way. Take a measurement from the toplink to a point on the lower arm. Now raise it and measure between the EXACT same two points again and you will see that...

IT will because it prevents the rotation of the lower arm and trailer mover in relation to one another

Torque definitaly an issue with just a direct drive motor setup. It CAN be made to work with many of the ideas mentioned here.....but whats the budget for this project?

Gonna be helping a friend of mine put a new roof on his house. My house will get a new roof at some point as well so the question becomes....when going from shingles to metal, what is the BEST way to do it. Cause it seems there is a handful of different ways, and just like building a pole...

Thats exactly what I did on my last pickup. The truckside mount only had 2 holes though.... I rebuilt the plow....meyers C8.5. All pivots were tight and no slop. Any subtle angle changes , due to terrain or whatever, didnt get a good clean scrape. Some truck plows (I know western for sure)...

Thats why I still stick with the AG's that are on it...lol. Cant justify the cost of R4 fronts when I have to buy new rims. Just keep thinking that the wider and "tougher" tire would be better for both the loader work that I do, as well as brushhogging. Saw a set of new kubota-orange...

Definitely an offset difference. Seems the MX is somewhere pretty close to the middle of the rim....whereas the B rears have a lot of offset. Gonna make the either stick out way to far, and probably hit the loader frame, or be way too narrow and hit the frame or something when turning

Thank you. This is what the guy sent me for the rims he has....see if yours are close

Wheel offset is the big one. I can measure my stud diameter on my tractor.

Called my dealer and inquired..... ABR8764 for rears of a B-series AMXR8828 for fronts on a MX He said tires are likely to be identical but said the rim is probably different. Stud hole size and or offset. I dont have a b-series....nor do I have R4 fronts on an MX. So anyone with R-4 rears...

Never really got serious but have always said it would be nice to have a pair of the 12-16.5 R4 tires on the front of my MX to compliment the AG's on the rear, since they are wider than the normal AG's on the front....but still the same diameter so it wont mess up 4x4 Happened across an ad...

The insurance company. But fail to see why that matters? The firm is putting their name and reputation on the line, and just giving a report with their suggestions. They really dont care what the insurance wants or does. They are simply inspecting and reporting on what they feel is the cause of...

Best interest of the insurance company would be to not have a future liability issue

Just got home from dealing with the engineer. Two areas to address, one is about 8' x 8', but to repair topside would involve removing furnace, waterheater, fridge, and a section of kitchen cabinets. And there is a wall (separating the kitchen from utility room). So quite an undertaking. This...

I dont understand this logic. How would future repairs, risk, etc be my burden....if the insurance company chooses an approved repair other than total replacement? If THEY choose a more cost effective method, and it fails in the future.....the structure is still insured by them.....its STILL...

Just to be clear, I am not trying to dodge an "approved" fix. And I am not advocating any of these repairs. Yes my insurance covers loss of rent. But I still hate the idea of displacing the tennants. No matter how the repair is made.....nothing is gonna come back on me. Because I am not...

I would be able to fill out a form for no concerns or issues with a clear conscience if its an insurance approved repair. As to "strips".....how would they sag any more than the existing subfloor. If anything, with the sistering of joists it lessens the span.

Long story... I have a 3-unit rental over top of a concrete crawl space. The hot water heaters all have the T&P valve piped down to a PVC floor drain that goes into the crawl space, makes a 90, goes over 4', then 90's down to a floor drain. One unit had the T&P valve fail. And they didnt...

Yea, Im thinking with a ton of weight....you aint moving it with the loader anyway. (of course you could have another implement on the back or use the Ford backhoe) But any "ballast/counterweight" heavy enough to be sufficient on the rear, is gonna be too heavy to lift with the front WITHOUT...

I ocassional have to smash my dumpster down....and if I have the bushhog on the back of my MX I cant get much down force. But simply lowering the 3ph to smash, then picking it up and proceeding. Not sure if your ballast can reach the ground. if you designed it to be able to set down without...

What tractor is that, the 2720 or 3039. If it works though, I wouldnt change anything. The rear axle is alot stronger than the front

JD 2720 bare tractor 2000lbs (according to tractordata) you find 500-600lbs good ballast. Thats about 25%-30% My old L3400.....bare tractor 2600#. I liked 1000# on the back. Thats 38% My MX I find 1000# not enough for my MX.....bare tractor 3800. 26% not sufficient. George2615 in post #3 has...

Your Deere is similar to my mx5100. And at 3770# for a rops machine vs eddies 8700# cabbed machine....his tractor is more than twice the machine. And it would take more than twice the ballast. In other words....for him to put 1000# ballast on the back, would be the equivalent of you or I...

Obviously everything in moderation. Too much weight is rarely a bad thing on a loader tractor. The rear axle is exponentially heavier and designed to carry far more weight than the front axle. These discussions come up often....and adding rear ballast will only INCREASE the potential weight on...

Never heard of air ruining cylinder seals. But yea, just cycle a few times. Even a pause at the end of stroke for a few seconds. Hopefully you werent having a issue with the cylinders leaking down, cause you may still have that issue

Agree. Take it apart and see what you got

Not familiar with the tractor, but what does the actual loader valve look like? When people say 7 hoses coming off loader block.....they are refering to 1. Pressure in 2. Tank return 3. Power beyond 4-7 being the work ports. IE....the 4 hoses controlling the 4 functions of the loader (lift...

The length behind the tractor is as equally as important as the weight. Ballast boxes (or a homemade ballast) usually keep the weight pretty close to the tractor. Therefore it takes more weight to have the same effectiveness as lesser weight but further back. Without exact measurements and...

Wouldnt be my valve of choice. I think you are gonna find a cheap loader valve....well....cheap. Not tight tolerance, loader and bucket leak down, etc. And I dont see any nor any mention of load checks. For me that would be a deal breaker. Imagine trying to "slowly" (feathering ability) lift a...

Good advise already and I cant add much. But there are some links in my signature to my diverer and remotes install. Dont know if the older kubotas have that similar hydraulic manifold and routing, but you may find some useful info in there

Get a trailer mover as others have mentioned.

IF you are into woodworking, like hardwoods.....mantles, cabinets, flooring, trim.....working with cherry, oak maple, etc....I can see it as being worthwhile. But to fool yourself into thinking you are saving anything by making construction lumber....forget it. You will never replicate the...

The good name brand ones are worth their price. Molex or Nytex are really good connectors. I agree that I think some of the confusion is people are trying to crimp the ones designed to be soldered. but yes, there are cheap butt connectors that are designed to be crimped that just suck and the...

Yup. Same thing I was tying to get at in an earlier post

You have to invest without emotion. When things drop, everyones first reaction is to panic and pull money out.....and when the stock market is doing exceedingly well, everyone wants their piece of the pie and wants to invest. However that is exactly the opposite of what you really should do...

THe end of the rod that attaches either the pusher or wedge.....if whatever is on there can be removed and no larger than the diameter of the rod, then no the piston dont need to come off. Most log splitter cylinders either have just a bolt hole, or a threaded on clevis. IF that is the case...

We have sheetz around here. They actually have an "unleaded 88" gas that they have a sticker cautioning you to only use in 2001 or newer vehicles or something like that. But their udl88 say "may contain up to 15% ethanol" But it is usually 45-60 cents per gallon cheaper that regular. So for...

While I do use E0 if its going in a can.....so mower, sxs, chainsaw, power washer, etc.....some people hype it to be the best thing in the world. I know we have been dealing with ethanol for 20+ years now....and people tend to have a shorter memory. Ethanol runs fine in small engines, the...

No its a 7k trailer. I asked the guy. Said he used to have a smaller 17-class mini excavator (~3500-4000lb) He bought the 35, which is not 6358#. More like 7700-7800. He said the upgrade excavator is why he is selling the 7k trailer because he bought a 14k. I wasnt interested in the trailer at...

Since I got my trailer earlier this year I have been out of the trailer shopping game. But still see them on marketplace all the time for sale. Back when I was trailer shopping.....I noticed a lot of people would often say things like "I haul (insert equipment here) no problem" Look up specs...

Yup, they are easy. Second one will obviously go easier than the first once you understand what goes where and how to set/program. But Id say absolute worst case for an armature is both in a day easy. So is a days worth of your time worth the $1000 saved

Are the car brakes original or did you put LEDs on it? Unless honda did something specific to reduce voltage, it should be the nominal 12-14v. If its not, its voltage drop through a bad connection somewhere

I think you are overreacting. ITs not like a craigslist transaction and they are trying to scam you. IF they are indeed totaling it, you will get paid. But, I also believe that it is your right to decline if you so choose. However most people dont want a wrecked and totaled car sitting in their...

Thanks. Interesting.

Im sure things are different by region.....but around here....lighting is usually never on the same circuits as any receptacles. Because most receptacles are on 20a circuits with 12ga wiring and lighting circuits are 15a/14ga. Not an electrician, and dont know the code....my 1987 house probably...

Sadly if you want to maintain a "classified" type experience going forward...C-list and Marketplace is just about it. Why would anyone PAY to advertise in a tree-killing business (paper print) when there are so many free options that reach MANY MANY more people. Technology changes and we...

First, I wouldnt automatically assume the "is it available" response as scam. Yes, sometimes they are. Problem is its the automated message that gets sent if you click the wrong button while scrolling. I have been guilty of doing that. As well as "liking" posts in which I dont intend to. Its...

Good info that I cannot add much to. Do like mentioned and pull the GFI out of the walls. Move the Load wires to the Line side. If there are more than one set already on the load side....then you need to figure out what one is for the light and only move it. And as mentioned.....any other...

Quick attach loader? Try unplugging and reseating the quick couplers. One of them probably is partly disconnected

Good saw. Used to have a 266se before it was stolen about 15 years ago. Had it and my 7900 dolmar. Both stolen. The 266 was a good runner for an old saw.

Yes there would be no down pressure with no piston seals. I was just illustrating a point and not trying to muddy the water. The simple point is cou cannot COMPRESS a hydraulic cylinder unless oil LEAVES the cylinder.

Not sure I understand?

Wow, another valve vs cylinder loader drift post. HAvent seen one of these in awhile. But its very clear that a lot of people (even those so called mechanics or dealership employees) have no clue about hydraulics, and just regurgitate the bad information they have heard all their lives. Lets...

x2 on checking the quick couplings.

A diverter is simple. It has 6 ports. Two ports in.....that are going to the existing function. Those spit off into a PAIR of ports. One set goes to original function, another goes to the added function

Pictures of whats breaking? What cylinders were new and oversized? the lift or the curl? And what was the bore diameter of the original cylinders and whats the bore diameter of the new cylinders?

MAke sure you dont have a stick or debris or something preventing the actual joystick from returning to center (neutral position)

This isnt a new thing. 14k is s pretty common trailer size. And for over two decades or more, any dually rolling off the line would put the combo over 26k also. This isnt opinion. And lots of people have mis-informed opinions. And lots of LEO's dont even know the laws. But no, if you are not...

Not to rehash CDL laws in yet another thread.....because it always turns lengthy and many people have different opinions.....BUT.... 1st....the truck itself does not require a CDL. So there is no obligation for any dealer to even mention that. ANd honestly surprised they did because it could...

Nice.... That is the one thing that has always drove me nuts....is why we cannot standardize batteries and voltages. We have with alot of batteries. AA, AAA, C, D-cell, 9-volt. Buy a maglight, or streamlight, or whatever brand it dont matter. You can run energizer, duracell, or dollar store...

Not really even true for end mills. Flute count dont matter too much for various materials. But flute angle is often different for aluminum specific end mills. (or non ferrous). But 2-flute is the common go-to for precise slotting or key-way milling. Because 4-flute tends to mill a little...

Stainless requires slow speed high pressure

If you are talking about the bolts that mount the diverter to the arm, they dont go to the outside of the arm. I drilled and tapped just one side of the tubular arm

Link to my diverter install is in my signature with alot of pics. (not sure if you can see a signature line on mobile, but I know you can on desktop)

You are overthinking it. Just drill and tap it. On my kubota, I actually did my diverter on the inside of the loader arm itself, so its a little more protected. And put me closer to where I needed to run plumbing so I didnt have hoses sticking outside the loader frame, which could be in harms...

Im not a radiant floor expert. But the two people I know that have it in their slabs both use a lochinvar boiler. Most electric HWH use 4500 or 5500w elements. A 5500w element running 25% of the time is 33kwh/day or about 1000kwh/mo. (my electric rates, that would translate to ~$150/mo for heat

Broke plenty. Several methods to remove and its a case by case basis.

I gotta disagree unless I misunderstand. But that is exactly what I have always done.... Drop off a scored crank.....I have no idea if it needs .005, .010, .020, etc.....I dont wanna jump right to .020 if .010 will clean it up. But also dont wanna say .010 if it leaves scoring. Same for...

Burning oil is not an oil pressure (or lack of) problem. Basically you have two issues at hand......low oil pressure and burning oil. Burning oil can either come from rings (not seated, improper gap, etc) or from valve seals. Compression and/or leak down test would be helpful. The low oil...

I think there is alot more information that none of us know.....and or answers to questions that can only be answered by the OP....who has only made this one post exactly a week ago, and has not been back to this forum since

I get the reloading for quality/accuracy. I reload .223 for that reason, and used to when I had a .22-250. Precision loads. But it's a freaking shotgun I'm busting some clays with...lol Buying 1-1/8oz loads of #8 shot.....not sure what difference I'd ever see in a handload??

I have never heard the term supercharger used as a generic term that includes turbochargers as well. And a turbo charger blowing up is not a common thing at a tractor pull that would make one question the visor being up on the driver. Now throwing a rod, or blowing the head off is another...

Straps WLL is 1/3 break strength. Chain is usually 1/4 though.

You mean turbocharger?

Weight was mentioned in post 12, 30, 31, 34 and 39. So seems to me a lot of people already recognized it.

Those prices I'm not sure where exactly. I just googled "red dot powder" and looked at the first 4 websites and jotted down the cheapest. Same for shot, wadd, and primers. So those prices are probably 4 different places.

Did a quick look and dont seem too economical anymore. Unless I am looking in the wrong places for components. We used to shoot alot of clays 20-25 years ago. And reloaded alot, and even back then the savings wasnt much. Just did some shooting with a friend last weekend and ordering some more...

I dont know of any good images to see it in action. But just tie a 10' piece of #9 wire to each coulter shank. AS it trails in the furrow to be buried....the resistance of the ~7' or so that is in the buried furrow keeps it tight. And the tall trash and stubble are tucked under the furrow by...

Take a picture of the plow in the dirt next time you attempt to plow. But hard to say what it looks like sitting on some rough ground, and the left tires not blocked up. Also, if you have a lower hole for the toplink on the tractor side, use a lower hole

The loader on a 2wd tractor may be the problem shifting the weight off of the traction tires and onto the fronts where it isnt needed. If its a QA loader take it off

Yes, still waiting on pictures as it would help tremendously

Pascals law. Yes pressure is the same everywhere unless you isolate one of the circuits. But they are all feeding from the same pump, and using the same relief valve. So deadheading the hydraulics (to take a max pressure reading) will be the same no matter where you take the reading...

Maybe a homeowner boxstore junk mower that only lasts 400-500hrs. but for the average homeowner that is 10+ years. But a commercial mower that lasts 3000-4000hrs and sees 400-500hrs per year.....you aint doing that on one set of blades. More like 8-10

Must be some pretty big gas tanks in some of these vehicles. My saturn....10gal tank....35-40 MPG.....350-400 range Wifes nissan 12 gal tank...30-35MPG......360-420 range My ram......52 gal tank....8mpg towing....416 range (11-12mpg not towing so ~600) Our last jeep compass 2.4L....12gal...

How many hours on the tractor and what year? I assume its newer since you mention warranty. How were you using the tractor when that happened? With where the bend is the loader would have to have been about half way raised, and dont see how one could do that even if they tried. So yea, im...

I have buried alot of horses. Mini-ex, full sized backhoe, and compact backhoe. I have never lifted a horse. Its always been drug, pushed into the hole and dirt shoved over. I just tell people they may want to step away. Some understand its just the circle of life, others get emotional. One...

As fun as testing this kind of thing would be in theory, it has no practical use or meaning. A 4wd tractor with R1 tires and 4000lb 50hp dont care if its painted red, blue, green or orange. They are gonna pull the same amount. Two parts of "pulling" is drawbar power, and max pulling force...

The vertical foam board isn't there so much to insulate the slab edge from the band board. It's there to insulate the ground under the slab from cold/frost creeping under the slab, lessening the burden on your below slab insulation. Some people run the edge foam all the way to top of slab. I...

We have both a TSC and a Rural king that I frequent. And usually one of them will have some also. But they are always similar in price to walmart...Somewhere around $25-$26 for a gallon and ~$60-$65 if you can find it in 2.5gal

I dont understand the complaint either? Just a general....."lets bash JD thread" Its a 31 year old lawnmower and someone is salty because it needs worked on from time to time. And since its a Yanmar engine.....the belt and muffler might not even have been made/installed by deere???? I dunno...

What is the plow? Pictures of the plow, the setup, and an action pic of the results would help us tremendously. Ballast isnt your problem. A 5000# 2wd UTILITY tractor with R1 tires should pull a 2-bottom plow with ease. Your setup method isnt bad.....but using a 6x6 block (which is only...

For a tiller I would at least want to cover my tracks so tilling can be done in any direction. If you offset the tiller, say to the left to cover that track. Then you can only go one direction....and that is with the fresh till also to the left. If you try and go down and back......on the way...

Anything with hydraulic angle is gonna need the cylinders unbolted or unpinned to spin the blade 180 degrees to push with it. Having offset that adjusts with just a pin usually pushes you to a higher end and heavier blade (also more money. Something like the landpride RB37 series..

Still a struggle for me to find T6 in 5w40. Seems 90% of the blue jug T6 I see anymore is 15w40. Was just at walmart last night.....they had 2 2.5gal jugs of 15w40 T6, And about a dozen 1 gal jugs. But only TWO 1-gal jugs if the 5w40 T6 :mad:

There is alot of science and design in making loops efficient. Not much different than duct work sizing in a house. Sure....you could throw together duct work and blow the conditioned air through the house.....and it will work. But a proper system is designed for balance and efficiency. The...

HE is asking the angle of attack for the cutting edge. A box blade dont really have any other angles other than that And 70 degrees is pretty normal

Yup, seat switch. Surprised it was just a two wire switch. Because most of them are 3 wire because its a 3 position switch

Changing the toplink also changes ripper height in relation to cutting edge. And it also changes the pitch of the sides....too far forward and the sides hold the edge off the ground. Too far back and you spill material as the sides arent parallel to the ground. 70 degrees is a pretty normal...

Mine is a 8' twin rigid deck so nothing to really tune. But I do sharpen the blades 2-3x per season. I check oil levels and grease everything beginning of season.....and about 2x-3x per year as well.....whenever I sharpen my blades. But lots less maintenance on a single rigid deck cutter

Another bad idea in MY opinion Cut the ends off a propane tank.....while thicker metal than a 55gal barrel........it still becomes a thin and flimsy piece of metal that is not difficult to crush. Add to the fact that you would need SEVERAL propane tanks of the same size to weld together....and...

The thought-out comment was the fact that the barrels are ALOT larger than the current setup. Which requires ALOT of material to cover, and somehow keep the barrels together. Then as others mentioned....heavy equipment.... Dont want to have an emergency, fire, etc and a squad or firetruck...

I just ignore pointless ignorant posts like that

Thats what still has me hung up... Why would anyone wanna mess with barrels if a 12" pipe would work? Dont seem very well thought out

Im thinking it wouldnt even try retracting the 4" if that were the case

In the kubota brochure

What kind of dirt work? Back dragging with bucket fully extended/dumped? Bent a rod and will only retract til the bent part binds in the gland?

Problem happened after reconnecting the loader. I am betting you got some hoses crossed up

What actual testing? What are you citing? Someone with a LA545 loader lifting a tote of unknown weight....only best guess... Did this test also include a LA535 that failed to lift then the 545 did lift? Because no.......they are basically the same loader with a slightly different model...

Im thinking either overtorque or under torque from the factory. Overtorque and weaken the threads to the point this was inevatible. Or undertorque and the nut loosened, and the slop overtime....even if small....the piston bouncing back and forth basically hammered the nut off. When I rebuild...

Yea, lathe with hardened inserts to cut them threads. Possibly but I would doubt the threads were induction hardened.....or at least it was probably threaded before it was hardened. I wish you had a good hydraulic machine shop around you. I had to replace the rod on my one of the cylinders on...

I used to use two greases. Moly for low speed high pressure. Like loader/hoe pins and bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc. And a synthetic lithium like mobile SHC32 or SHC460 for high speed bearings. Like u-joints and mower deck spindles. But now.....I think a urea based grease is a good...

No idea where you are located. Look at the manual for viscosity vs operating temp range. 10w30 is for cold weather in most diesels. 15w40 for warmer weather. Rotella is a good oil. T4, T5, T6. Good stuff, but look at the actual viscosity you need

T5 or T6

Same here. Majic is crap. When TSC used to carry the Valspar tractor and implement paint, it was good stuff. Especially paired with their hardner. They switched to Majic about 10 years ago and tried it a few times. Absolutly could not get the stuff to cover even over primer without a million...

It's a 5675. Notice the difference? It don't have the extra step in the body behind where the balls lock

Yes, it would be handy to see both males.....and or any writing or numbers on the couplings. Because the male/female pair on the tractor are most likely the same series. As are the ones on the tree puller. But is the pair on the tractor, and the pair on the puller both the same series? And...

Ag or series A.... Where is the pic of the other male coupler?

You must have gotten a late start planting. We had fresh corn ready middle of july....and staggered about 4 plantings. Ours was done for about end of august. So we ate on it for about 6 weeks.

I have redecked a couple trailers. Always a PITA Did the deck screws come out? Or just break off? The AMO trailer I just recently re-decked.....was a ~8 year old trailer I think....Well over 100 screws total. Only two came out complete. They all break and get ground flush. Problem is...

Three "types" of couplers that all look similar ISO 5675 (AG) ISO 7241 series A ISO 7241 series B NONE of them are interchangeable yet all look similar. Ball vs Poppet are usually interchangable as long as the couplers are the same series. There are also different sizes. Its not...

No one stopping you from trying....but not gonna cut as good. Not only counteracting the lift by directing airflow down.....you actually have ~1/4" blade (thickness) that is below the cut line that is gonna batter the grass rather than the nice clean cut.

I guess based on what you have said..... Saying it was "supposed" to be listed as approx 2000hrs.....I'm not sure of. It should have been, absolutely. And it should have clearly spelled out it had a non-function tach and hour meter. However.....I get the impression that the dealer (or at...

Yup, for tying most things down I agree. But still cannot seem to get away from ropes/knots. Like my examples.....just setting up a deer blind a few months ago.... Or the kids volleyball net.....pulling it tight between the posts, yet keeping it tight while tying it off. Or using half a roll...

Yes. This is what I have been saying too. Cut the plug off. You only have 6 or maybe 7 wires. Identify which one is ground....pretty easy. Now one at a time, put 12v to the other wires and see what they do. Make a note and wire up a new 7-way

I watch alot of the videos on various knots and their purposes. Specifically the clinch type knots where trying to tie something and have the line TIGHT. Like stringing up the kids volley ball net. Or tying the hunting blind down to stakes. Or tying something in a truck or trailer. Because a...

While I agree it's great to have a happy outcome.....and that this dealer seems like they are re going above and beyond..... I honestly think this is only because it was their employee(mechanic) that screwed the pooch here. Had this been any other machine on trade, on an as is basis.....I...

I agree. But the post from the OP that I quoted and replied to said something like home needing to figure out how the truck is wired.....and whether it's RV standard or equipment. He is still confused and think that whatever standard has something to do with the plug or truck which it don't...

AGAIN......(maybe it hasn't sunk in yet as I know this can be confusing)..... BUT... THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RV STANDARD AND EQUIPMENT STANDARD WHEN IT COMES TO THE PLUGS. THE TRUCKS AND THE TRAILERS ARE WIRED EXACTLY THE SAME WAY. THE ONLY DIFFERENCES IS RV USES DIFFERENT COLORS so...

Just for clarification..... Equipment standard vs RV standard are no different in plug or layout. It is ONLY the wire color. The truck is always gonna have the taillights at 11 o'clock and ground at 7 o'clock on the 7-way. (Most frequent ones I check) But an equipment trailer is gonna use a...

Take the round heavy duty connector off. Establish your ground. One by one give each wire 12v and see what happens. Make note. Wire up new 7-way You say "no matter how I wire it, it won't work" That's because up to this point you haven't got the correct way yet😉

Thats the kit I used on my most recent trailer which was a total re-wire. The wire color of the molded plug I got used RV-standard wire colors so my above reference is inaccurate if thats the route to go. For for simplicity....I'd just get one of the two piece plastic replacement ends and wire...

Flat face couplers suck IMO unless you get the real expensive ones that are made to connect under pressure. Otherwise there is no way to bleed or burp the coupler to connect if there is a little residual pressure due to thermal expansion. ISO 5675 (AG) couplers, ISO 7241 series A and ISO 7241...

Nope. You need custom hoses the exact length. Premade stuff is usually in 6" or 12" increments.....and you dont want to be too short (obviously) but too long is also just as bad on a backhoe. Everything is tight and you dont have room to "waste" 8" of extra hose somewhere that isnt needed...

Im in the same camp that thinks you have some fluid bypassing. I just helped a neighbor on a little 10-ton single axle dump with a scissor hoist. Rod side port had no vent. But would only dump about half way. He called me for help to disassemble the scissor hoist thinking he had a seized pin...

If it isnt wider than the fender/wheels I dont see any issue at all. My 8- bushhog overhangs the sides of my trailer but no more than the axles/fenders. And if this was a deckover of a 102" wide drop-deck trailer you'd have another 10-12" of deck there and wouldnt even be questioning.

Definitely not as convenient as a HST. For finesse, speed control, or direction change nothing can compare to a HST. But that dont mean other options are close and also easy to use. So I agree, dont over think it. The M4 would be a nice plowing tractor for sure.

I have not seen an actual industrial lug tire (like skidloader tires) made for a 16" rim. Personally I dont like your "possible" option. You are going SMALLER on the rear and LARGER on the front. The internal gearing of the tractor already OVERDRIVES the front tires. Meaning they spin a...

Pics would do wonders. I have wired and rewired dozens of trailers. What is the "spade" type connector you refer to? Are you talking like the 4-wire flat connector previously mentioned? Or are you saying the truck has a 7-way....but the actual contact pins are spade type. And the 7-way on the...

I do custom mowing/bushhogging. Been doing it for 11 years now and to the tune of 400 or so acres per year. My first 5 years in business was with a gear L3400 kubota and a bushhog 306 6' cutter. 1-1.25 GPH was about where it was always. And on hot days it wasnt until the radiator screen was...

Im 2.5-2.6 GPH working my MX5100 bota with a 8' bushhog. So ~1.75-2gph is about what I would expect out of a 35HP HST. Yes HST is a fuel hog. But worth it for what I do. A 35HP gear tractor should knock off about 1/2 gallon per hour. But is $2/hr savings worth it?

This is something we actually agree on. If you cannot justify going to a twin 8......which is a good match for a 60HP tractor maintaining pastures or fields....then the 6-7 foot upgrade isnt enough to be worthwhile. And a 7' cutter is gonna "feel" just as heavy if not heavier than an 8' twin...

ITs nothing new and they have done it for 70 years. Its easier and cheaper to de-tune an engine, than design a totally different engine with less displacement and HP. If traction is what you need for tillage, Higher HP may not help. IF you are pulling loaded wagons on the road and up/down...

You should have no issues. Use 4wd because that will allow your front tires to aid in braking

~15000lb farm tractors pull 600-700bu hoppers of beans and corn (~40,000lbs). So....2.5x tractor weight or so is what you see big tractors pull. I see 1100bu hoppers on tracks (~65000-70000lb) pulled by CaseIH magnum 300+hp tractors (~30,000lb tractors) so similar ratio I dont have any issue...

25-26 degrees is about my limit on a MX5100 or my Scag Wildcat ZTR. I have taken my mini-ex up and down 30 degree slopes but not sideways