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It can be brakedisc material that you found . With the 1st oilchange was the oil milky ? Water dissolfe that (glue)

You need a spesial tool to instal them to the correct depth

5/8 unc by 11/4

Needs a special tool to fit that seal. It comes in 2 parts . The seal and a wear sleeve

Switch on but do not start . Check on pad for a little red light blinking . Count those blinkes to get the code.

I found that the ground wire dose corrod. Lengtern that cabel and ground it direct to the engine.

So the solled shaft stay in the pressure plate ? Loosen the pressureplate and remove all.

I have learned that a newer oil covers the older ones specs aswell !

And to assist with putting everything together use a come- along lightly !

Brakes are fine, just replaced them last week.Did you do as I said ? Without the gasket....then with the gasket ?

What airfilter was installed on that tractor ? A drie airfilter or a oilbath ? If you overfill an oilbath just a little bit it will suck it into the engine.

Brakes...essemble the finaldrives with everything exept the gasket .tie up everything...then remove finaldrives and install again with the gasket ...then brakes will be ok !

6 sil diesel toptorque and valve clearence please ?

Very old...

It was in a truck but now in a tracktor

Top torque and valve clearense please. Its a 6 sil diesel

No 1 sil is nearest to the flywheel

That is one simtone of dirt under that side brake. Replace both valves in the brakemaster. But we are seaching for the cause of dirty filter.

And check if the brakepedals pivot shaft is not rusted and can not return ! Aswell that the brakepedals is adjusted correctly.

That must be a B 275 ?

I think it poppes out of gear ? See if the lever can move a bit more ? If so ....heat up the lever and bend it so that the gear/coupler can move a bit more to make more of a n overlap !

That bolt and plate clamps those two pipes to their seats. An o-ring and a quadseal seals the oil from leaking.

Rememer that the injetors take a special kind of washer. Order them from the agents I do not have the part number

It is a shaft with the idler gear between your topshaft and the bottom one.

The PTO sealcover next to it has a reses in it to stop that shaft from spinning.

Remove your dipstick and check for waterdroplets on the plug. That can tell you if you have a sleeveproblem.

My money is on "you never filled the frontdiff "! Pinionbearing seezed up !

Check your glowplug or thermostart...same thing.

Remember to check your mail tip as well. Rust or a damage mail tip will leak.

So.e has the dipstickthere. Other has it on tje right side about 1/3 from the bottom as a small squire plug that can be unscrewed to check the fluidlevel.

Check if the radiator mounting bolts at the bottom is still there !

What I do is I cut a groove in the tierod near where it join. Not to on the crome rod. Then hit it to remove the thightnes on is. Then it will unscrew by hand.

Remove wheels...remove 2 taper bolts...adj brakeshoes down...pull drums off...if drums is stuck...spray pennetrating oil on flange of axle and move drum little in and out till the drum come off

Replace the filter housing wil be the correct advice ! I normaly set it alight so that all that bad stuff can burn out ! VERY DANGEROUS ! Do that on a windfree day and in a open area !

Is the thermostart (preheater) working corretly ? Is the ign switch returning back out of preheating corretly ?

It is like a tap that must be closed for the oil not to flow. So up or down does not matter ! If o-ring is not good oil wil flow !

Up or down does not matter as it is a close center sisteem .as you start it wil start spraying oil.

Remove the 3pt and replace the valve o-rings. Remember to adj those valves to the correct neutral range !

Remember that your clutch release work on your thrustbearings in your engine. Loosen the coupler between your pump and the crank...depress your clutchpedal so that the crank can move forward and by keeping the pedal in adjust the coupler to the rear and tighten the bolt. That will stop the pump...

Normaly the pump will be faulty . Best to get a new pump and replace it.

I cut a plate the size of the seal and install it in the bearinghousing before I install the seal . Then that plate help to protect the seal from outside stuff !

The fitting under the spring corrod and then stuck to the shaft. Then the spring can not do it s work. Strip and clean...replace the clutchplates.

Nice project ! Untill you find 2 pinions and 2 crownwheels !! I got a projext like that on a Landini R8000 ib the 1980 s . That tractor was sold and the coustemer was happy with it !

Freetravel on the PTO lever ?

Adj your clutchpedalfreetravel to get that happy spot with 40mm of freetravel. Start your PTO at idle and not full revs

Clutchpedalfreetravel ?

That is the new stile seal and you needs a spesial tool to fit it.

Put in forward or reverse and switch on. If it does not blow that fuse...unplug the neutral switch under the left footboaard and check again. That neutralswitch is trubblesome.

You get dry and wet steering clutches. Dry...must stay dry...if it is getting wet then there is a seal that is leaking from the diff housing. Wet..if the diff seal is leaking then you will not pick it up

Did JD change the mounting for the drawbar ? I normaly have to remove the drawbarbracket before I have exise to the screenfilter

3 banks like in 6 pipes to operate 3 silinders ?

Check on left of engine at flywheel . Their is a window...the casing has a pointer on. Turn the flywheel till you get to the marks for the injectorpump fitted to the engine. Like if you have a CAV pump then the mark must also be CAV. Remove the pumpgear and turn the pumpshaft till it locks up at...

Injection timing ?

Mains 110nm Big 115nm Top exhaust side 100nm Fan side 80nm Tappets .20mm in +ex

Torque specs for the engine ?