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From what I recall forest fires pollute the air worse than anything else. Nobody cares about cleaning up the forest to help prevent forest fires. As for this emission BS. If it worked perfectly without any issues then I have no issue with it. Unfortunately that is not the case with the issues...

The farthest I have ever gone on the road was 15 miles to get my first tractor home. It was an 8N with hi/low tranny. Now the furthest I need to go is less than a 1/2 mile. That is a rarity. Any further I just trailer it.

I found that I have one wheel hub seal slightly weeping. The wheel itself is tight with no play in it. I think a piece of brush may have caused this leak. I'm keeping close watch on it in case it starts dripping. If it does I'll tear the wheel hub apart and replace the seal and bearings. I have...

Are you running a 900 - 1000 pound ballast in the rear? Try only turning the wheels when the tractor is in motion when the loader is full.

I read that the aftermarket gearbox is not a drop in item. Which brand of gearbox was this?

Yup, I saw that and a lightbulb turned on. Flip that over. The hoses are a hazard for grabbing brush.

Can you flip that box 180 degrees and run the hoses out of the top of it?

I consider it as very cheap insurance to save the tie rod boots. My originals got ruined due to the lack of protection. Sad part is Kioti is too damn money hungry to supply these boots for sale separately.

I broke one of these a few years back. That had a made in Spain gearbox which is supposed to be the better of the two. I think the other box is made in China or Mexico. I also bought one of those MX6 decks with a broken shaft in it. I found a replacement for it on EBay. I sold that one and...

Update, the left side tie rod hit on the inside of the extended shield when turning the tires to the right. I modified both to fit. The top angle was cut to 1 5/8" long. The bottom angle was changed to 30 degrees and the cut was 2 5/8" long. I also added two 3/8" washers behind the guard for a...

I finally made the new guards for my NX4510HST. I couldn't find a local fab shop to bend me up two pieces of 1/8" thick by 4.5" wide steel plates to match the contour of the original design. I bought a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" x 36" steel. Using my bench vise and a 2 1/2" OD socket I made up 8...

There was definetly mention of those boots on here at one time. If I get a chance I will try and find it.

Somebody made post a year ago or so about Kubota rubbers that might fit the Kioto inner tie rods. You may want to try and look it up. Or post the question. The person even listed the part number. You can keep these greased using a pin nozzle end for a grease gun if the rubber is torn. One of my...

I will contact Kioti on the grease. I do plan on flushing the green grease out of the joints. It is simple to pull the clips that hold the rubber boots on.

These are pre greased and do not come with grease fittings. I installed them so that I can keep these lubed up. My original tie rods wore out with less than 1250 hours on it. I can check with the dealer but I think the answer will be "I don't know".

Thanks, I'll look into that.

This grease is very thick, slimey and sticky. The part is the inner tie rod end on a Kioti NX4510HST tractor. I know that there is some kind of nylon or mylar lining inside the cup as I have installed grease fittings on them. When I drilled the 1/8" hole white plastic came out after I broke thru...

I spoke too soon about my tractor. Now at 1259 hours on my NX4510HST I have a front wheel seeping oil slightly. The hub is tight. Looks like I will be doing the wheel seal and both bearings while it is apart. Probably a good idea to do both sides.

It doesn't matter what brand you buy. There can always be all kinds of issues with it and the dealer involved. I have been there and done it with my NX4510HST since I bought it. More regen issues then I want to talk about. Fixed now. Bad turbo oil leak. Bad regen canister. Bad throttle...

Today I installed my new tie rod end sets. First I altered them by installing grease fittings in both ends. The outer ends were simple to do. The inner took a bit of ingenuity. I drilled an angled 1/8" hole from the backside into the ball socket area. Next came a vertical hole to intersect the...

So sad to see that a simple task of adding grease before swedging a tie rod end cannot be accomplished.

I believe the Government has a 5 year warranty required on the emissions system. Look into that. I recall being told that on my Kioti NX4510HST.

Hi Dave, Both of my outer tie rods were never greased when made by ????? for Kioti. When I noticed play in my steering I took them out and popped the rubber boots off of the outers. They both were rusted up which caused them to wipe out prematurely. Now the inners are worn out. They were...

There are two sets listed on Ebay right now for $104.75 each.

Looking for aftermarket inner and outer tie rods for my tractor. Has anyone changed theirs out yet.(update) Found a pair of Kioti tie rods on Ebay for $215.00 for the pair with free shipping. Kioti is $329.09 each. Today is my lucky day.

Thanks for posting this info up Lou. I noticed today that both my inner and outer tie rods on my NX4510 are shot. Hopefully I can match them up with Moog parts. I'll also post up on the forum looking for info in case somebody already has found the part numbers. (Update) I just found a pair on...

Thanks

I'll check that out. Thanks

NX4510 HST, Fuel tank is full. Gauge reads 3/4. Time to check the sending unit.

I had some fun today making a 3 point hitch ballast weight. $10 barrel, $20 receiver trailer hitch, $32 for the 3 point hitch drawbar and almost $60 for (12) 80 pound bags of concrete. The vertical tubing came from a piece of scrap that I salvaged from an old storage rack end that I have had...

At around 770 hours my DPF filter had already been cleaned. Due to a turbo seal oil leak the DPF was considered junk by Kioti and replaced under warranty. Trust me I had my share of pains with regen problems and limp modes. So far since then it has been okay. I'm at 1201 hours as of today.

This is on the hood of my tractor.

Stan, I thought he was talking tractors since this is a tractor site. My tractor says Ecodiesel on the side of it.

Why, Just put the bucket down to lift up the front end and check the wheels to see if they are loose. Spin them to make sure they feel smooth when turning. I just turned 1200 hours on my NX4510 and the front end feels fine. My loader gets used a lot.

That is what happens when you sell devices to illegally alter on road vehicles. Selling them is not illegal. Installing them is. He should take them to court and fight it. Unless of course he is also installing them. There were companies out there selling full auto trigger groups for AR15's...

There are thousands of deleted pickups out there on the road right now. Nobody is going to be checking on farm tractors. I don't live in a world of fear.

The EPA is not going to be enforcing farm equipment emissions when they can't even monitor on road equipment.

When I had all my DEF issues with my NX4510HST a few years ago I was told about disconnecting the differential switch by pulling it out of the hoses, not unplugging it. The switch works by the balance of pressure on the two ends of the canister. When the canister starts to plug up the ECU puts...

A farm tractor is not an on road vehicle.

To me what would cause this is turning on hard pan in 4x4 and the wheel in particular was jumping due to driveline wrap. I run 85 - 140 in my 4510hst.

I use to own a Cub Cadet 7275hst that had 27hp. I had no problem dragging out trees that size with it.

Thankfully that couple weren't seriously hurt. The bike is replaceable. You cannot compare these two issues at all. When driving a tractor you are in control of the situation. When riding a motorcycle your life depends on knowing your surroundings and the idiots on the roadways. I also ride a...

Ok

Why? So you can have more Government regulations and 50 States with their own rules?

I have only chopped up a few chucks and a porcupine. I've come close to decimating a few little turkeys but stopped in time to let them flee.

These things happen out in fields and there is no way to avoid it.

The same goes for small Turkeys. They will stay in place and not run. I've seen them out in the fields after mowing with a brush hog mower.

The real question is what was in the bucket? Did you come down off the hill behind the tractor on an angle? I know that with the bucket on my tractor I need a counter balance on the rear because the rear end is light when the FEL is on. That counterweight could be anything from a grader blade...

People mow with the bucket up for better view of what is it the tall grass. Also when cutting into a corner so that the bucket is up and out of the way. There is no danger mowing with the bucket up. I have been doing that for over 20 years. There might be a danger it you had a full load in the...

I find that hard to believe too. I add ZZDP to my oil. I run T6 full synthetic.

Never interrupt a regen unless absolutely necessary. If your tractor goes into limp mode the dealer has to reset it. Unless of course you have the expensive equipment and software to do a reset.

I run 85w - 140 in my NX4510hst also. I'm at 1100+ hours. Probably 25% of those hours are with a heavy load of logs on forks, bucket loads of wood and loads of rock. So far so good without any front bearing issues. I feel the heavier the oil the better the lubrication when carrying heavy loads.

In that case let it idle. If it was a Tier IV engine it is not good for the DPF converter. My local Kioti rep said if you plan on letting it run for any amount of time let it run at 1600 rpm's. Otherwise the DPF builds up with carbon that will need to be burned off more often.

I did end up buying 3 Greenlee tools. One stick saw and two loppers for $200. I got in my standard hydraulic fittings the other day and went to work using the stick saw. Man does that work nicely. I also turned down the chain oil on mine. My front remotes run off one of my rear remotes just like...

I changed out the hose fittings on the saw. It does work on my remotes but the open loop valve is sticking when you release the handle. I'll get into that tomorrow to see what is causing the sticking.

I plan on using it around our properties. I did buy these yesterday for $200. Two loppers and the saw.

Now that is interesting.

That really is a crazy design and not good. My Kioti NX4510 HST just disengages and winds down when the PTO is turned off. It is electrically operated. Why would a company put a PTO brake on a tractor.

Anyone own or use a hydraulic stick saw or hydraulic pruners off their tractor hydraulics?

Nope Kioti NX4510 just like mine.

Good thing you had that insurance policy. Did Kioti turn down your repair?

Look at the Mahindras.

Thanks Threepoint.

Obviously and costly. I think once in 45 years is really pretty good odds though.

I have owned 3 tractors since 1978 and never bent a tilt piston on any of them. The only thing I did with my tractor last week was back dragging heavy snow away from my barn doors and large garage shed door over at the farm. I don't recall getting hung up on anything that would have caused this...

Hopefully that fixes your problem.

That stinks. You are at the mercy of their system. There should be a temperature switch involved also. Mine won't activate automatically unless it is cold enough. I can override it by doing it manually.

I took my tie rods out because they were loose. There was no grease at all inside of those parts. I added a grease fitting to them. I also pressed them down in a press to tighten up the joints. So far so good.

Get up under the dash and make sure the wire plug for the ignition switch is pushed all the way on. My tractor had that same issue. My ignition plug was barely hanging on.

Does your ignition allow you to turn the key all the way to the left to activate the glow plugs? My NX4510HST has the automatic glow plug activation when turned to the on position or all the way to the left for manual activation.

When was the last time you changed the hydraulic filters and oil? Is your oil level where it should be?

I wouldn't even attempt cutting 3 inch anything with a flail mower or even a brush hog.

Parts arrived at 2pm yesterday and my tractor was back together by 4pm. The bucket curl works so much faster now than ever before. Two of the seals were flipped over. I'm thinking that this has been this way since new. Total cost was a bit more than expected. The cost was $959.02 to rebuilt both...

Michigan Iron & Equipment got my order for all my parts to repair my cylinders. All the parts are in stock at the warehouse. I'm having them drop shipped directly from Kioti in N.C. to me to cut down on downtime. My parts should ship out today and arrive on Friday. Looking forward to warmer...

Update, The piston cylinder end caps do have some rub wear from the bent piston rods. I know that I could clean them up and they will seal fine but decided since everything moving inside is going to be new that I will replace the caps for another $121.00 for the pair if the place honors their...

The plan after going to a hydraulic shop is to rebuilt them myself. I'm going to buy two new piston rods and replace them and anything else that is damaged as in forward seals in the caps. Cost to rebuilt one cylinder was quoted at a minimal of $600 - 700. I can do this work myself. If I was...

Thanks, I looked up the parts again and found the cylinder breakdown on the parts sheet. Not cheap on a cylinder. I'm calling the local place now to see what they say. I also see the complete seal kit is available. My outer seal is leaking on the cap.

We had a 27 inch snowstorm last week. I somehow bent both of my tilt cylinders on my loader. I was able to straighten one of them out. The other one snapped when I tried to straighten it out. Has anyone found an alternate to these cylinders other than from Kioti? I could rebuild it if I could...

I would wash those spots off to see if they change color. If they don't change color then they would be old cracks. I've seen this happen before on cast iron machine parts.

There are 3 dark spots on that break that would tell me that they ate old cracks. Then I noticed what appears to be an even larger crack down the right side behind where this piece came off.

Yup, that is why I am very careful using my grader blade in the reverse direction.

You have to figure the whole weight of the tractor which I believe is 5000 pounds slamming into that part.

I recall a warning for using a 3pth backhoe on these tractors which can cause this same failure that you experience. I believe that part is much stronger in the forward motion versus the backward motion. I use a grader blade for clearing the snow in my driveway. I am always cautious about...

I can attest to the aggravation of back and forth with a dealer with my Kioti tractor for regeneration issues. This is what happens when the EPA forces manufacturers to find a solution to cleaner emissions. We the owners of these machines are the ones that suffer while they fly around in private...

MIE is the place where I usually order parts for my NX4510 HST. They always have what I am looking for in stock. I will continue to buy from them in the future.

I just don't understand how the pump lost its prime. I do mine during the Summer heat because the oil flows so much easier when warm. You have oil in the filter. That means the oil is working its way forward.

The temperature is your problem. Borrow a kerosene torpedo from somebody and heat that garage up. The oil is too thick to flow easily. You could also back your tractor up on a set of ramps which will help the oil flow downhill into the filter and pump.

I have not had this issue on my NX4510HST. What I have done is changed out the filters first. Then drained all the oil out of the tractor. I refilled the tractor and started up the engine. I let the motor idle for a few minutes then worked the loader. I do not drain the loader when changing the...

I have also snagged my filter housing and tore that small section of suction hose. I replaced it with a clear piece of hose from Lowes. So far that hose has worked out fine for me. On the plus side, you can see the fluid going thru the hose.

Update on my new fan. As of yesterday my fan has yet to hit the fan shroud. I believe the problem was the radiator being tweaked backwards at the top is why the fan was hitting it. I have been using my tractor extensively since installing the fan. If I see any change I will update this post.

The new fan was under $75 shipped with tax. A new radiator is over $1,000.

Nice day today and a good day to figure out the problem with the fan. No bolts are loose anywhere. I found that the top of the radiator is in a good 3/8". I also noticed that the right hand oil cooler line going to the front cooler appears to be tweaked outwards. I removed that line and tweaked...

Since you are adding rear hydraulics you may want to put both of them in. I added one on mine right after I bought my tractor in 2016 and wished shortly after that i should have put in both. I now have two sets of rear remotes. With a hydraulic toplink, that uses up one of them. I use the other...

I don't see any movement in the shroud at all. Maybe I can tweak it by loosening the bolts on the shroud and trying to pull it closer to the radiator. Another thing I thought of was this. The engine was replaced roughly 300 + hours ago. I know for a fact that the fan was fine before the motor...

Here are some photos and this area is where it is hitting the fan shroud. Something is torquing in order for the fan to hit the shroud. The fan is hitting the shroud at the 1 - 3 o'clock position on the shroud. I'm going to have to recheck all the bolts everywhere to make sure that they are...

My curl cable broke the same as yours with about the same amount of hours on the tractor. It broke in that same spot. I took the cable out and welded it. Around 900+ hours it snapped off again. This time I replaced it. I bought 2 new cables after the first one broke.

Been there done that with mine.

I don't see any marks on the shroud but will look again. Later today I'll take some photos of the blade.

Thanks for looking at yours. I'll post what I had to do to replace it. I need a bit warmer day to do this than the 26 degrees we have today. I just might wait until Spring unless it starts to blow apart.

Thanks, I looked too and couldn't find it either.

My blades have some small cracks in it so I am going to replace it. That looks like it will be fun to do.

Can a few of you Kioti owners look at your fan blades to see if it has wear marks from hitting the radiator shroud. Mine has a good 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch on the blades. I have checked all of the motor mounting bolts and the radiator/shroud bolts and nothing is loose. The water pump is fine also...

The kit comes with a coil for charging the battery. I think it goes inside the flywheel.

Very interesting idea. I don't have a powerful cordless drill and would need to buy one of them. I personally like the idea of just turning the key and letting it fire up.

Has anyone done one of these conversions? I see the kits selling for under $100 online. I have this motor on my Northstar 37 ton woodsplitter. I think having an electric start would be so much easier to start up.

The best part is that they always seem to have what you need in stock.

That is why I did what I did to keep from smashing it up again.

There is plenty of room behind it for air flow. I considered that before wanting to do this. Worse case scenario I could drill a bunch of 1/4 " holes in it. I did not want to go with any metal with big holes or slots because of branch damage. It doesn't take much for a branch to kick up and go...

Two years ago I put a branch thru my plastic grill destroying it. I replaced it and last weekend I had a 1/2 branch pop up and go thru the grill again. This time I stopped real quick and was able to save the grill by snapping the piece back in and gluing it. Here is what I am thinking of doing...

Try pushing the brake down all the way. Then lift your locking lever and release the foot brake slowly.

Your brake works the opposite of the NX4510 HST. You need to pull up your locking lever to lock the pedals down?

Welding the teeth up should harden that area.

That was why I didn't weld mine and went with a 1/4 pin. I can still go bigger if I ever have to.

Has it come loose at all in the hole?

A bit to get it out of there.

How sloppy is the shifter? Look down inside and see if the arm where the lever attaches to is loose as a goose where the pin goes thru it.

I'll be buying one for mine as that is cheaper than a Kioti fuel filter.

Is this really necessary seeing how there is a fuel filter before the injection pump to remove sediment.

I never got a message about your reply. I bought it thru Chrysler for just over $100 with shipping. Here you go but out of stock. It was also out of stock when I ordered it. I have seen this going for over $150.00 on other sites. 10529A, Diesel Fuel Hydrometer - Mopar Essential Tools and...

You will have to look. I don't waste my time doing that. If I had a tripod I could have videod when I did mine. Sorry

It would be much easier if you remove the rear tire for easier access. You do need to remove the shift lever knobs and plastic shifter housing/fuse box cover. Four bolts on the shifter bracket and one link to remove.

Eric, I remember your posts about your tractor not heating up and finding a different thermostat for it.

In Mass we had some 90 - 95 degree days and I was out mowing with a Landpride 2584 mower and running my MX6 brush hog. My temp gauge never went over the halfway mark. I'm pretty **** about keeping the grilles, radiator screens and the radiator free of crud and debris.

The best part was that it was only a 22 minute regen instead of 30 - 40 minutes. I kept an eye on the exhaust during the regen. It barely smoked during the regen. I have been using the power mix on the Sweets.

That is a lot of thermostats. Mine is a 2014 that I bought in 2016 new. It has 940 hours on it and the original thermostat. The motor has never run over half way on the temperature gauge.

I had my most recent regeneration yesterday at 937 hours. That is awesome at 67 hours between regens. It lasted 22 minutes before the light went out. I had just stopped my tractor to chip some brush when the light came on. I cranked it up to 2500 and went to work chipping brush. At 20 minutes I...

I bought my NX4510HST in 2016. I have almost always had this issue. Just tap the pedal easily and it will go right in.

I had this problem with mine and ran a stainless wire thru the pin to keep it in place. Most recently I found that the pin had gotten loose in the shaft. I removed the assembly and drilled the holes out to 1/4" and installed a new 1/4" pin. The old pin was metric. Now my shifter has no more slop...

Sure would because some people would replace the tank. I hate to see what that costs when they want $70 for a marker light and $46 for a plastic grab handle. Update: I just priced a new tank. $410 + 6.25% tax and whatever they would hit me for shipping.

Today I filled up my fuel tank to the top and the back of the tank started dripping. Next stop was over to the barn because it started raining. I drained the tank and removed it. The gauge had been over tightened somewhere along the way and the studs in the tank had cracked the plastic. Damned...

Great idea but you just jinxed yourself.

That is not normal at all.

My last regen was a 870 hours. Today I hit 920 hours and haven't done a regen. I will post when it does happen.

Try some graphite spray in your ignition. I use some in mine and it made it a lot easier to turn back and forth. I'm 69, use to be a mechanic and never owned a load tester in my life. A volt meter will show you if you have a bad battery after charging it up. Just connect it to the battery and...

When the battery in my 2014 NX4510 died 2 years ago I had no codes. It wasn't completely dead but was sure hard to start. One error code that always pops up when I have had issues is the water in the fuel filter code. 008 My Kioti dealer said that happens all the time. I have never had water in...

I just made a post last week how I drilled mine out to the next size up pin to get rid of all that slop. The hole was egg shaped. Not anymore and it works great and lines right up with the positions. The new pin size is 1/4 inch.

I wish mine was that way too and no smog hog exhaust system. Although the exhaust is so much cleaner than my previous Cub Cadet tractor. I also never had any issues with the HST on that tractor. I think it had like 3200 or 3400 hours on it when I sold it.

All of the plugs are sealed and the HST controller is also a sealed unit. I went out this morning early to check the plugs on the right side switch panel. Just for the F___ of it turned the key on. What do you know, my N in neutral is back up on the dashboard. I went thru the gears and they are...

Well the Gremlin is back with a vengeance again. Yesterday the Calibration light came on right after getting out on the road. I couldn't clear it and had to use my forks to push my tractor 200 feet backwards to get my tractor back into my driveway. Boy was I p-ssed off. I checked all the plugs...

I'm sure I could find a pair the right length like this easy enough if i can't get an original.

I don't have a TIG but I do have a MIG.

Only if I had any. I will initial them if I make any. I wonder how stainless steel tubing would work. No maintenance and no paint.

There was a thread a few years ago about Kubota boots that might fit.

Awesome

When my tractor was fairly new I had an issue with the shifting lever attachment roll pin working its way out. I put it back in and wired it with stainless steel wire. Over the past few years it has gotten very loose. Today I pulled the shifter assembly out. I drilled the roll pin hole to 1/4...

Yes I have two welders and could easily fab up a tube handle out of metal. I have a new one on order. If I can't get one I'll fan one up. I'd like to keep the two of them matching.

Mine are different than that. Maybe if I had a printer I could.

This is true on standard order shipping. That is what I expected to see, not a $20.00 fee for picking up the part in house.

The local dealer.

I broke my rear fender grip and looked up this part online at a local dealer and at a distant dealer. Distant dealer is roughly $44.00 +$16.oo shipping. Local dealer shows $33.00 + $35.00 shipping. Here is the killer. If I pick up the part at the store there is a $20.00 charge. LOL, So much for...

You can clean the 02 sensors with a wire brush. The exhaust one is a pisser to get out. I slightly bent the tin piece near it to be able to get a wrench on it.

Did you pull off the rubber turbo hose? Another thing that you can do is to pull the two 02 sensors and clean them. One is on top of the canister near the back and the other is on the left side of the motor on the exhaust. When I was having severe regen issues the lower one was constantly...

I think 30 hours is a little bit early. Are you running your tractor at or above 2000 RPM's most of the time? Two Kioti dealers told me to do this to prevent frequent regens. I want to say that I am getting close to 60 hours on a regen now on my new motor. They said that running at lower than...

It is hydrostatic. Basically a two way piston. I looked it up. They call it a steering assembly. The tie rods connect directly to the steering assembly. The complete steering ends are $306.40 each and are the same part number.

For right now I am all set as I tightened up the ends and now can grease them. NAPA would be the best bet or looking online. The price that they charge for these is crazy. Then again anything tractor related is not cheap.

My tractor has a rack and pinion so the two outer ends are identical. They have internal threads that go over the inner ball socket end that screws into the rack and pinion steering rods.

Time flies when you are having fun.

Usually a regen is 30 - 40 minutes. I have had a few 20 minute ones but never 10 minutes.

I'm not replacing them. I hammered them to tighten them up using a large punch and hammer in a big vise. New ones are $159 apiece plus outrageous shipping charges. My steering is snug now. I'm waiting to see how many others have this problem. Under 900 hours and no grease. Pure BS on their part.

You do not have to walk away while regeneration is going on. I keep using my tractor during auto regens.

This is what I found. I pulled both tie rods off my tractor. Then I took the seals off the ends at the wheel end. Both tie rods had no grease whatsoever in those joints. They have been running bone dry since day one. I drilled and tapped the top cap and installed grease fittings in them. Then I...

Did your tractor get fixed for sure on that last trip?

Pull the rubber hose off your turbo and check for oil in it. If there is the seal is gone. One dealer told me mine was fine. Shortly afterwards and a bad batch of fuel I lost my motor. First thing the 2nd dealer that I brought it to said your turbo is shot. Then he told me there is something in...

My NX4510 HST has 887 hours on it and the two tie rod ends are loose on the ball ends and on the steering rack ends. There is like a 1/16" slop in all of them. Anyone else notice if their links are loose? This is ridiculous to be this worn already.

This brings back memories of the last 56 Chevy I owned. It had ball bearings on the front hubs. When they wore out for the second time I replaced them with a set of front hubs off a 63 Impala with tapered roller bearings. That ended my bearing problems.

Thanks

👍

Thanks, the splice connection is between the light and the wire harness hold down. It almost looks original.

I did drill two small holes just above and below the original mounting holes. The lights come with stainless screws. After threading the holes I cut the screws off then installed them and painted the ends to keep the brackets from rusting.

They make red ones also. My phone won't get the link but here is the item.

I have always hated the side lights on my tractor because at lower RPM's they always vibrated like crazy. A week ago one of them got the lens knocked off and broken by a good size downed branch. I priced out a new light from Kioti. Two different dealers pricing was $108.00 + - with...

If hardening of the metal won't work with a torch, you can take down the teeth a little bit and weld it back up. The weld will be much harder than the original steel.

I agree with the little gremlin. This morning my tractor started right up and it is working fine. I just spent 2 1/2 hours of running time up on our woodlot removing grape vines, multi flora roses and bittersweet from our trees. I just came out of the woods and shut it off. It started right up...

With my tractor yesterday I found that this rarely works and that was how I was doing it. I did find a way to trick it into working. Very rarely would my N light go out on the 2nd operation. I would do the 3rd operation then go back to the second where I had both the N and Cal light on. I would...

I got it working again only to fail 3 more times during the day and many attempts to get it up and running again each time. I definitely have an electrical gremlin and will need to try and figure it out or bring it to the dealer. I did get the Calibration light to blink out a #12 code. I'll...

I wholeheartedly agree 100%. I went out just now to do the procedure that I mentioned from the repair manual. It failed to work. Now I am back at square one again. My tractor was fine this morning before running this procedure. I should have left it alone. Maybe the procedure is incorrect or I...

With the little use that you have used your tractor the mixed oil won't harm it. Unfortunately there are new parts made that are defective. I recall some guys having the high pressure pumps that were sucking air which caused the hydraulic oil to cavitate due to air in the systems. Look it up to...

Yesterday I went out and fired up my Kioti and started driving up my driveway. I made it 20 feet before the shift indicator switched over to L from H and the calibration light came on and the tractor stopped moving. I let it roll back down the driveway, got out my needle nose pliers and...

True, that is why the old style tractors never had problems and are still running today. Although they do smoke a lot more than the new tractors.

Disconnecting the battery would do the same thing but not tell me if I do have a bad connection or switch. Dielectric grease on these connectors will not collect dust and dirt as they are all of the sealed type were there are rubber seals on the female end to keep dust and water out of the...

Nope, all the connectors have a safety clip to hold them together. All of them were clipped and pushed all the way in before I pulled them apart. What is weird is i was driving on my logging road which is covered with crushed rock and clear of all debris. It sure had me puzzled. Electronics are...

Sorry to say this but you eat all transportation costs. Been there done it many times for a warranty problem over and over again.

You can also drill an 1/8 inch hole in the new thermostat to help bleed the air out of the motor.

That was my thought too and why I disconnected everything under the tractor and plugged them back in. I'm just glad that it worked. Loading my tractor on a trailer would not have been fun with a 3PTH chipper on the back and forks on the front. My tractor was also facing the wrong direction on a...

Today I was using my tractor to move logs, trees and a few other things. Later in the day I went out again to trim branches that keep hitting me when going thru the woods. I had just shifted my HST from L to H and gone 20 feet when my tractor stopped moving. The dash said I was in L. The...

Wow, at least you found the problem. Read my post that I am going to make today. If this doesn't make your head spin I don't know what will.

No problem. You might get more attention with a new thread.

The middle posting is mine when my motor crapped out. According to a fuel test there was something that shouldn't have been in my fuel, like gasoline. It washed the cylinders down and did a number on the motor. I always buy my fuel in one can and would have known by the smell if gas went into my...

You are most welcome. In order to use the water level switch you need to tap the hole to the proper size for the switch. To clean out chips you can slide a magnet up in there and hit it with air or just flush it out with fuel. Then screw the water level switch in.

Buy a good quality electric grease gun with a locking fitting end. Put a set of hooks on the backside of your bucket for lifting things. I welded mine on.

Start a new post. That one is 9 years old

I saved an old Baldwin fuel filter for a complete cutaway to show how good the filter works. This filter fits my Kioti NX4510HST. This filter has 400 hours on it. This filter has a 1 micron better rating than the Kioti Filter according to both manufacturers. The filter element is folded over and...

Regardless of the size of the grapple. The OP told me that the loader was rated for 3600 pounds. That 3600 pounds also includes the weight of the grapple. Usually the max loader weight is measured at the lift pins.

I looked at New Hollands when I was looking for a new tractor. I got under one and said, not for me. The Kioti and Mahindra tractors were made a lot heavier and rugged.

The truth finally came out. I guess it was a matter of more money than brains.

The owner told me that Kioti has not returned any of his calls. Same goes for his dealer who also called Kioti.

Thanks Eric. I never heard of this company.

I did get a reply from the owner. Out of Warranty. The frame is not considered part of the drivetrain. Insurance company deemed failure due to material defect. The loader is rated for 3600 pounds. The frame break is not at a weld.