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If the bore of the mounting hole is the same, and your deck doesn't have a special holder or stiffener - than they very likely would. I've put the wider blades on ZTR decks and they cleared fine.

Welcome. A good inspection is in order as Randy pointed out. You didn't say how many hours it has. Should also look for broken spindles or one of the blade spindles binding- so see that they turn freely. Tension is adjustable as well on these if I recall.

Are you able to turn the engine by hand?

I supposed that she named hers too?!

Good deal. I read the thread title and thought to myself, why did he take a machine that sized to the park and how on earth did he get it stuck! Glade it worked out!

You didn't say if this is a Kohler as well. But typically the anti- backfire solenoid blocks the fuel pipe that goes to the venturi. Because carburetor bowls also need another vent, your fuel likely flooded via the vent passage. Low speed circuits can draw from the bowl area as well.

The wife's new tool box!

My XJ allows either 32 or 46 viscosity hydro oil. It does sound like maybe they used 46 at the last service.

Sure . It's only here that I get these. It might be easiest to download MB as they are reputable. Here's what it shows in the log. They show as blocked as their website is compromised. billecox.com (from 10/16), read-download-books.com (from 10/18, 10/21,10/23) hrhkmstlb.puzztake.com (from...

Welcome. This happens when either the lock knob on the dash is up or if the rear arms of the deck are adjusted too high. The lock won't release if it is too high, it needs 1/4 -3/8 of an inch travel before it hits the frame.

For a few days now several of the ads show as coming from a compromised website. As an FYI.

You will see the switch for the drive pedals underneath the body near the pedals if'n you want to have a look. Cycle the PTO switch. Maybe you will luck out,

I wouldn't think so. Maybe a drive position switch. I can always start mine off the seat, but touch a drive pedal it dies because the seat is unoccupied. You didn't really say, but you've had this running after fuse replacement- correct? If I've ever had a no crank, it goes back to the PTO...

Reading what you have replaced, it wasn't clear if you had replaced the stump jumper. It obviously had gotten some good use. Worth a shot? Maybe in the nature of goodwill, they'd cut a deal seeing as though you've had a CAC open.

Beats me. I just use GL4 if it's called for. No one on here is gonna pay the bill for you if it doesn't work out.

"My symptoms now are: Engine will try and stall with the PTO switch in the ON position, with either (1) me getting off the seat, or (2) releasing the parking brake." Those aren't symptoms, that's the way it is supposed to be. It wasn't clear where you checked your voltage. Your clutch should...

You'll have to see that the trigger wire is being powered at the starter solenoid. If not, your brake switch is also in the crank circuit. A look at the terminals behind the switch could be in order as well.

They are quite dependable really. It won't need cleaning. Any pump issues you would replace the diaphragm. If you do take it apart, do so cautiously. Couple of little springs to lose.

Basically look for wear on the float valve whilst it is apart. The little holes in the body, kinda three in a row - the tiniest has to be cleaned. A wire from a brush is fine. The main is through the bowl nut. Just use whatever jet spray you have and it will be fine. 3 screw fuel pump or 4?

Too bad there is no resolution on this. Best of luck moving forward.

Good deal. You thinking a loose connection or rather a contact in the switch itself?

Wow. That's a beauty! You can't touch anything even close to that for that $.

Let us know what you find out.

In the manual the only correlation between the 3 is the instrument panel itself or a chassis ground.

There isn't a mechanical compression release. Really whatever happens to be there is how the cam is ground. Me, I'd clean the carbon out of the heads if you think that it is excessive or just buy a new Briggs starter and life goes on. You are correct that there are certain parts that are NLA...

Yes. New gaskets. Head gaskets are different L to R

The shrouds, heads will get you to the top of the valves. The covers for the spring ends is under the intake.

Adjusting the valves are a bit more involved here. They require removal to adjust the gap. These aren't the source of an inoperative compression release as there isn't one. Lots of carbon on the head can be an issue though. You are correct on the starter, the flywheel can stay. I spray of lube...

Yes, I would agree with the starter and a possible solenoid. These starters did get tired and new one is frequently the fix. 497596 If you determine that it's a oil burner, you may have to go a little further.

It has too many springs if you are using this with an electric clutch. First off, remove the brake arms, hardware and their springs. Next remove the spring that hooks of the front of the idler cam. The actual tensioner spring that pulls back on the idler cam is not as designed, but I'm sure you...

No, these solenoids should not get hot. Are you experiencing this issue when the starter is attempting to crank over the engine? You didn't say what engine you had. IE if it is a Briggs OHV, you could have a compression release issue.

So are you installing a tension spring on this? 174883 was the belt that the 42" inch used w/ the electric clutch along with a spring. 2002 and up?

Be sure and let us know what you all had done.

Next time you have the deck off, snap a pic of the top of the deck.

Welcome. You'd might do well matching at an OPE dealer if you could compare the chute diameter to something in for repair or something. Those parts may not be in the dealer's parts bins to compare. 40-8150 is an example of a Toro retainer for an older 24" model. 25-5450 for a 32". Printable?

It might end up being something like that. This has a pair of thin, roundish steel something or others that hold against the glass, gasketing goes inside and then retained with heavier angled steel. At first I though I could seal the glass to the metal, but then thought better of it. Figured it...

Funny thing. I called the Osburn stove co thinking I would get the window gasket kit complete as certain other parts had deteriorated. She texted me a proper number for parts. When I pressed 9 for English, it said something to the effect of FBI agent something or other.

I think in my case the gasketing around the glass was a big offender. I too had some sticky grunge. I know around the glass the gasket leaked. I think of the wood we burned had to have been seasoned. I'll see if the flue build up is normal when I get to it. Traditionally it stays pretty clean as...

I am a member of the razor blade club. Usually flakes right off. This stuff wouldn't budge, dunno why. We burn normally dry fir and some cherry.

I found a solution for cleaning the glass in the door. Purple Power degreaser. I'm probably in the last group people on the planet that knows this, but the stubborn soot washed off without effort. I have the door off getting ready to reseal the glass and door. Here's my share.

Sure, you wouldn't have to fill it. Her's is the small chassis and wheel package too. The only thing I noted on my customer's was the self threading shoulder bolts that attached the bracket - 1 was pulling loose. The others were holding so I just put a nut on the one whilst I was there.

I've kept various versions of stabilizers for customers over the years. For the most part they work fine for simple off season storage or keeping their fuel fresh for the season in these households with small yards. I point to the back of the bottle and tell them the "keeps fuel fresh for two...

That would make sense. You'd think the exhaust pipe would be glowing if you had a sheared flywheel key.

Maybe repost what is happening in the repair section also linking this discussion. Someone with good experience might not be perusing the LS section. Parts/Repairs

No, it should start w/o being in the seat. Set your park brake. Did the J1 go away?

My point was more that it is a short, odd sized belt that is difficult to install. There isn't lots of room to make up for a half sized belt if off the shelf is full sized. There's lots that I do that I know that needs an OEM belt to work right and there is lots that it is Ok to use an aftermarket.

Well, it certainly isn't an even sized belt nor is it pricey. John Deere Fan Belt - M800313

That's a nice looking machine. Seeing as though it is new to you, you may want to run it just to confirm that you didn't have an oil spill from the last guy. Or can you actually see the source of the leak?

Toro puts 10W40 or 15W50 in these pumps. This manual may help: https://www.toro.com/getpub/29738

Belt slippage causes a weak left wheel issue more often than one would think. It is just the way the torque is delivered through the belt drive. Best advice is to replace the idler, put a new OEM belt on it and give it a try.