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Saving old tractors is a GOOD thing, true it is not the traditional color but it's your tractor paint it whatever color makes ya happy.

I really don't believe it is a timing issue, once these old engines are set they will not (as a rule) change unless someone changes them. I am going stand by what I said earlier, the problem is the tractor needs a tune up.

IF it has not been altered over the years then it will have a resistor wire.

Pulling the head is no big deal once the hood is off. It is a pain to pull the hood and gas tank since they must come off together and need to come off to be able have a good view of the cylinders. A compression test an is easy diagnostic test to do and will give a very good indication of the...

Do NOT tear the engine apart until you have spent time diagnosing the problem.

Yeah, what he said, EVERYDAY it is something that makes want to pull my hair out. Fortunately it is to short and few to get a hold on. :giggle:

Does not have to freeze for the expansion plug to fail, chances are it has never been replaced over the years of its life and rust just finally got the best of it.

Yes this. As long as the rims you have are in reasonable shape, no rusted though places, a liner and tube will be a cheaper long term fix. Replace the rims or put in tubes, either will work, do which one makes you comfortable.

No they just claim they do sell more. I for one will never, NEVER own a Ford again, in the past I have had 4 Ford's over the years and each and everyone, without exception, was a black hole. Causing great damage to the bank account before I could get rid of them. Each time I bought one it was...

The Ford 1000 should use a 10x24, 4 loop rim on the rear like this one on eBay...

A compression test would be the place to start, sounds to me like it just needs some TLC such as a good tune up since it has a dead miss. Your engine does have blow-by but I have seen worse on working tractors.

As a temporary fix when you first start out with the tractor you can slip the clutch to clean up any rust that may be there but ultimately a split and replace is the best thing to do.

That size rim should be available many places, including tractor parts places or tire places that deal in tractor tires. They are even available on eBay.

I will tell you right now there is NO comparison between a high end ZT with suspension seat and a heavier tractor, the tractors will win everytime. I bought a high end ExMark 2 years ago with the best suspension available at the time because of my back and neck surgeries and while it does ride...

Yeah, at least the now available replacements are cast

Been awhile since I was into the engine of an "N" tractor but I am mostly sure you will need to remove the front bolster to get enough room to remove the crankshaft pulley. You will need to drop the oil pan to replace the seal, if it is not leaking I would not bother changing it. I would use...

I have had several neck and back surgeries so turning around to look behind ain't gonna happen, I also have to wear a neck brace when mowing with either the ZT or tractor. I mow often with one or the other of my tractors and know where the cutter follows in relation to the tractor tires. Once...

Actually a study was done (by Jeff Mohr) that showed the hitch transfers more of the energy to the vehicle because it is mounted to the frame where as the bumper has a degree of crumple to absorb some of the impact. I agree with his study, the hitch transfers more of the energy to the frame...

WOW! those look more like paintings than photos, great shots.

Just for your info the electronic service/shop manual I have is over 420 pages.

I have done a lot of crazy things in my time but hooking a welder to a battery IS NOT going to be one of them even if it does appear to help. Most I have ever done for a dying battery is give each cell two aspirin (literally), a slow charge and check it in the morning. I wish he had tested that...

Try this link: PDF Manual from Classic Manuals LLC

I have found that most of the time the rod has rusted in the fork, on occasion I have found bad gears but 9 out of 10 it has been the rusted shaft.

It sounds like it is a fine/finish cut from the number of knives per row. I would remove all the blades then run it to be sure the rotor is in balance and not bent. Then if that checks out add one knife per row back until you have it repopulated. A fine/finish cut should have a total of 81...

The tractor will ride much better than the ZT, any ZT, I don't care what type of suspension seat it has, simply because of the size of the tires. I stupidly sold my 3 point finish mower because I thought getting my 6 acres cut using the ZT would be faster and it can be if the ground was...

A hydraulic top link also makes hooking up implements MUCH easier, don't know why I went so long without one.

8 volt batteries are just a band aid, fix it or convert as Ed stated.

Check Dennis Carpenters site he is known for having OEM and OEM reproduction parts. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com

See if this helps

I use a Mr Funnel everytime I fill up expressly for preventing any contaminates that may have gotten into the storage containers from getting into the tractors.

Corn head, Spindle, 00 grease is known by several names and is fast becoming the lubricant of choice for gear boxes (especially old ones) since it will flow and keep everything lubricated. But most importantly will not leak as readily as regular gear oil. I use it in all my gear boxes old and new.

Your connections are correct, I looked at mine tonight and grabbed some pics for you.

I have a Bedrug in my Tundra under a tonneau cover and just love it. I am thinking about getting the deck on my flat bed sprayed with bed liner, the surface rust drives me crazy where the paint has worn off from tool boxes and fuel cans.

Your problem is the spark, it should be BLUE and snappy. Orange or yellow is weak spark and it will not get the job done. I know you said you replaced the coil but as I said many new parts are bad out of the box. I think it is going to be either a bad/weak coil or bad condenser. It ain't yer fuel.

Did you look at the spark to see what color it was?

Something does not seem right to me, I'll look at mine tomorrow

It goes on one of the bolts/nuts that hold the axle trumpet to the center housing

Need to do some diagnosing of the problem, when it loses power check the color of the spark, if it is yellow the problem is ignition related. If pulling the choke out a little improves it then you have fuel issues. Which I am will to bet is the problem is ignition. If so hot wire the tractor...

Actually (for Ford ag tractors) the blue color was introduced in 1963 when they changed the number designation to the thousand series (2000 & 4000), from 1948 up until that time the colors had been the red, grey most people are accustom to seeing and prior to that the tractors were all...

An old Ford doing what it was made to do, doesn't get any better than that.

NO TILLER, the 640 is geared to fast to run a tiller properly. IF and I do mean IF you had an SOS transmission with independent PTO you could use a tiller but a geared transmission is just geared way to fast for use with a tiller. Get a plow and disk and you will be good to go with the 640, it's...

I would venture to say more parts availability than even some of the name brand tractors of the last 10 years. The N series tractor seems to be one of the most popular and other than large castings everything is readily available for them. Enough so that (if you could bear the cost) could build...

Your hydraulic pump is belt driven? The loader pumps are usually driven off the crankshaft with a coupler.

The 8N Fords are one of my favorites.

I have read about them being used like that but I have no idea as to the life of the belt when used that way. It does seem that as long as it fits and sits down in the pulley correctly it should work. After all there is not much load pulling the water pump and generator.

My FIL built one of those many years ago, it did work but man was it slow to build pressure. A larger motor would have helped but he used an old washer motor. He had the coolest old tank, about a 25 gallon with bands and rivets around it. He would air it up to over 100 lbs of pressure often but...

BTDT, but I was lucky enough to catch it before I bent the shaft, just tore up the shield.

An 8N will handle a 6' finish mower just fine, I cut 6 acres for several years with that setup until I traded for a larger tractor. Get a blade wide enough to cover your tracks and a dirt/pond scoop is a poor mans loader. A lot of dirt can be moved with one once you get it adjusted.

Before you go doing anything check the quality of the spark, if it is yellow then there's yer problem. Do this before you start messing around with the fuel system. More good fuel systems have been screwed up because of bad spark.

If it is cast then you had better search to find someone who KNOWS how to weld cast or else it will be brittle and break in no time.