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IF I understand the post correctly.....the 40 acres you are having cut twice a year for hay.....but you choose to mow it after first frost anyway. I would ask WHY? Dont mow it after first frost. Maybe they can get first cutting of hay sooner....or even 3 cuttings a year?

I dont know anyone that calls a 600sq ft area a field? Heck I just built a 20x32 garage that is more square footage that that....and its a small garage.... SO.....I am gonna assume the latter and that you meant a 600 ft SQUARE which is indeed about 8 acres. For starters, I think the tractor...

Agreed. Most dont have insurance, working for very little money or for "beer" money. They undercut the legit players in the game and make it hard for a new player to do things the right way. I cant tell you how many times I have quoted a mowing job, lets say at $250....and they gasp and say...

Nice. Dodged a bullet there

Me too. But I have also pulled off the road and into a driveway with a BP that there is no way you could with a GN. But I think this horse has been beat

And if you come in under hours do you give them a discount? You're either flat rate or you aren't. You're either hourly or you aren't. (With exceptions like I mentioned earlier like a rock clause). But you can't bid a job at a flat rate....then go over and tack more on....without equally...

MAkes you have to ask yourself if you really need a backhoe that bad. Or if you have a few projects and it would be wiser to either 1. hire the work done or 2. Rent a mini-x a few times a year. While not difficult by any means.....swapping the backhoe off and to other attachments certainly isnt...

Those jobs are why I stay as busy as I want. I am a ONE MAN show. And I want to keep it that way. Dont want to deal with employees and the hassle that goes with it. The guys that have big equipment, dozen employees, several trucks and trailers, etc etc etc dont want to fool around with the...

I do alot of subcontract work with my mini. When I work direct for a customer its a quoted job at a flat price. But when I cubcontract with another company its impossible to do that. The nature of the work is usually utilities (plumbing/electric) or digging footers for retaining walls, and...

If you bid $1500 and only expect it to take 7-8 hours.......would this not be the same as charging $200/hr? Dont see how money is left on the table? What makes you arrive at your $1500 number? You certainly have a target hourly rate to come up with that. Bidding flat rate and coming in under...

While I agree bidding by job is better than hourly in most cases.....this statement simply isnt true. Those that quote a flat price for the job DO have an hourly rate they associate one way or another with their bid. They have to anticipate how many hours or days it takes to do a job.....and...

I guess in this day and age of technology.....I really dont understand what a realtor does other than take pics and make a listing. I have bought and sold ONE home with a realtor.....and it was 3% + 3% for a total of 6%. Most people I know looking for a home look on realtor.com, or zillow or...

Its all regional and what your local market will bear. Also depends on how good of an operator are you. IF all you are focusing on is loader work.....a skidloader will work circles around you at probably not much more per hour. I dont do alot of loader work. My tractor work is mostly limited to...

I try not to bill hourly if its pretty straight forward work.....like mowing, or leveling a pad. I try to quote a flat price for the job. Then you dont have someone watching you like a hawk to see if you are "milking the clock" so to speak....or squabbling about a rounding your time 5 min one...

I agree its annoying. Maybe they think they have a better chance at making a deal if they actually talk to someone???? Not me. It makes me more likely to look elsewhere because you waste my time

Just pit the pallet forks on and see if you can lift one end. Then all your questions will be answered. But if moving any distance at all and maybe some small hills involved Id want to tow it from the rear hitch. Basically make it like a trailer. I know there are alot here who will freak out...

Incorrect still. Breakout force is ONLY the lift cylinders and how much it can lift with a level bucket at ground level. There is no specification that is comprised of trying to use BOTH functions. The whole notion of trying to use BOTH functions at the same time and calculating some number...

Incorrect about breakout. Breakout force is how much the loader will lift at ground level. Curl/rollback force is something different Some loaders list capacities at ground level (breakout).....capacity at 1.5m (59") and at max height.

Clamp on forks.....probably not. Bucket off and either QA or pin-on forks.....I'd say it has a pretty good chance of lifting and moving. Loaders lift way more at a lower height due to the geometry and angle change of the cylinders. Make sure you have something heavy on the back. But the 2155...

Too far for me, but what is the price?

I rent alot of equipment. I also have purchased a mini excavator so I dont rent those anymore. I assure you I run my own equipment just like I do rental stuff. So not sure what is meant by "run the crap out of"......It aint a car/truck rental....its a tractor/dozer/excavator/whatever....made to...

Local rental place. $2250 to be exact https://holmesrentalandsales.com/john-deere-310sl/

I'd expect the torque curves to be similar in respect to their peak. IE: percent torque rise vs RPM. In other words.....if RPM drop 10% and torque rise is 15%....I'd expect a similar curve profile for both engines.... For example....kubota D1105 (68CI 25hp engine) vs kubota D1705 (100CI 25hp...

Has nothing at all to do with HP or torque. Its all about traction. Both the zero turns can spin the tires while doing so. Just because the powerking can drag them doesnt mean they can work as hard, or have less torque. It simply means they arent designed for pulling something....they have...

Actually.....all else being equal....they will pull and work the same. But odds are if one is 77cu in and another is over 100 cu in they are probably different size machines. Put those two engines in the SAME or similar tractors (weight, tire size, traction) and the results will be the same.

Get a second machine. Trying to convert a single machine back and forth between a lawnmower and a backhoe is always gonna be more difficult than just jumping on another machine. And there will always be room to find fault with a design or setup

Because there are MANY MANY more important things to compare when tractor shopping than torque. HP is how fast work can get done. And thats what is important to just about everyone. How fast can I plant a field, how long is it gonna take me to mow my lawn. How big of a bushhog or tiller to buy...

Late to the thread but Did you pull ALL the drain plugs? The kubotas I have had there are multiple for the hydraulic/trans fluid. There are the big ones under trans and/or rear end.....but you also have to pull two out of either axle. In either case.....sometimes I over fill a bit.....if I...

Not bad. About a buck a pound which is about right for steel structural members

BINGO

Thats not an illustration of torque. Its weight/traction......and dont even look like they had weight on the sled.

I just don't like relying on a battery that only gets occasional use. Even the jump back batteries die. The alternator is almost a sure thing as long as vehicle is running

I dont do anything about it. The SUDT oil in my tractor is probably bettwer quality than in the dump trailer. And the couple gallons of whatever it has that mix with my tractor....big deal. not too worried.

I have an occasional use dump trailer to. First thing I did was set myself up to NOT rely on the dump trailer battery. 1. if your tractor has remotes.....set the trailer to run off the remotes of the tractor. Three "sets" of 1/4" couplers (7241 ISO-B is what I used) and TWO male AG couplers to...

Yup, a restrictor should work. But other than that......a regen valve is the only answer

Yes and no. I don't want a fullsize like a suburban and get 14mpg. But it seems all of the midsize are comparable in 18-20 city and 25ish highway. I'm not splitting hairs....if one "specs" 24 and another "specs" 26.....it ain't a deal breaker either way. Other factors, like features, age...

No...towing not important. My only trailers are a 12k dump and a 14k equip. Both of which get yanked behind the ram dually. Just need room for ball bags....or kids friends.

Where does one draw the line though? Why not suggest jumping to a full sized van then? Or why not a full size SUV like a suburban? Heck why not just get a mini bus? The fact is I have indeed considered the minivan. But balancing wants and needs....and the fact that we live in Ohio I don't want...

All the ones I mentioned have 3rd row seating. Family isnt large. Me, Wife, 12yo son and 9yo daughter. The issue is cargo space. The compass....try cramming in 2 lawn chains, two ball bags, 5-gal bucket of balls, coaches duffle with catchers gear, couple blankets, and a fold-up wagon.....all to...

Those seem to be about 50% more money for comparable age/mileage than the models I listed. And when I check 3rd row seat in the search results 90% of them disappear....so maybe 3rd row wasnt popular in those models? But the ones I see.....still at $35-$40k for 50,000 miles and 2019 I will take...

Im seeing alot of the 20-30k mile 2020-2022 vehicles as well for ~$35k-$45k...... But honestly for half the money I'd rather go with a 2018-2019 with 60k. Just seems a smarter move financially to me.

Looking to upgrade to a midsized SUV. Currently have a jeep compass and with kids getting older....its just getting a little small. Finding more and more reasons for a 3rd row seat and/or the ability to fold them down and have more cargo room. 5 models keep coming up in my search parameters...

You should be able to pull a 3x16 with ease. What is the 2-bottom you are getting a "deal" on? is it 16" bottoms? Your tractor has 16.9 tires....those wont drop in a 12" furrow very well. You really need a 16" or 18" plow bottom. Now as far as WHERE the plow tracks behind the tractor is all...

Comparable full sized TLB like a deere 310 only rents for about $2k/month around me. I know its not a tractor.....but he is kinda advertising it as a TLB. And a pathetic 5' mower on that machine :ROFLMAO: And how would any warranty issues be handled without owner present or wanting to be bothered

I dont think tractor weight is on anyones mind nor is it a "fundamental importance"when looking at buying a oversized garden tractor that weighs 1300-1400 lbs. Otherwise they would be looking at something that weighs more than just a few hundred pounds over a good lawn mower or zero-turn...

I am confused why someone who has a $7k deductible on their home even wants to insure a $7k tractor? For what? Like theft? What about anything else they have of value? UTV? ATV? Mowers? Guns? Jewelry? Etc? I wouldnt even think about insuring a $7k tractor for $500/yr with a $500 deductible...

What are you comparing? Size of tractor? Weight? Horsepower? or features? Because all 3 are basically the same size machine....same rear lift capacity.....same size rubber.....and same HP basically. And the two deere tractors use the same loader. Now if you are comparing features and creature...

Septic and drains aren't burried below frost here because they don't retain the liquid. Not that it has frozen deep here in the past 10 years.....but our frost depth is around the 3' mark. And I know septic lines that are only 8"-10" deep and never an issue

Wouldnt that be true of anything on wheels going down the highway?

Agree. "modern" pickups though dont have much issue dragging around a 14k or 16k BP trailer though. Trucks have came along way since the 80's and 90's