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all the best on this difficulty. btw on this day, thank you for your service overseas. regards,

surprised all of the teeth are in good shape after the many rocks the woods tooth bar has pried from the ground. what about using hard surfacing rods & reshape a worn tooth?

if you're that far along in retirement, good credit rating, & w/o debt, why are you concerned with a 24 pt movement? does it really matter? maybe just another variable rating like the DOW from day to day, sounds like you're in good shape, best regards

i store my 5 gal containers of treated diesel & non ethanol fuel under cover away from cabin & usually keep tractor filled above 3/4. i circulate fairly often, think that's the key in this discussion. sometimes simple is better than overthinking. regards

from my experience, i'd surely stay away from latex based sealers (even top grade) sold @ box stores. it will peal esp with poor drainage, freezing, etc. don't know about oil based asphalt sealers. good luck on your project

sounds like a plan. sure is a lot of tractor hauling for the small acreage you described numerous times a season. good luck. bet a 72" zero turn would do the trick. costly though. good luck w/project

the reverse feature would be the selling pt for me were i buying one.

well done rig. all pole saws sometimes get pinched high up. have you run into any problems with pinching w/a arm that length? good work.

probably so, yours sounds like a small task. lots of gadgets out there, good luck on the change, regards

here's another op for you, maybe out of your price range. saved me a lot of labor refueling. but it would work for hyd oil as well. will make quik work out of a 5 gal container, faster than my mr funnel can accomodate (@ full throttle) flow can be regulated @ nozzle trigger. best regards...

given multiple thefts, my larger concern would be for your tractor at large, or even destructive mischief from a frustrated thief. i'd be looking at alternatives for your vulnerable tractor location. also keep a game cam trained on the area best of luck, & welcome to the forum

works great for my 15 gal hyd change. sure beats a small transfer pump or suction gun that really gets messy. i'm not afraid of repeated handwork as long as it limits contaminants & reduces the mess... good luck on the change, regards...

5 gal pail pump works great for volume

as a footnote, my long time parts guy @ my K dealership recommended handling the inner filter only by the outer edges on either end, that handling the filter overall can compress fibers. & yes, it's a safeguard should the outer filter fail. not sure if it makes sense, but i avoid handling it...

my experience w/cup type wrenches is that they just spin before proper torque is applied to either tighten or loosen filter. at least on my rigs, but yes, handy.

exactly my thoughts when both hyd filters were extremely difficult to remove @ 50 hrs. my take is that the factory wants no chance of accidental filter disengagement. glad no one was around for my choice words...

OP: have you stated why you want to clear 300 acres, how cost effective the project would be, or is cost not an issue. forgive if i missed something scanning through the replies

as above poster mentioned, look for clutch adjustment. no experience w/Belarus, but have read clutch failure is notorious for that make tractor. others can explain clutch replacement involving splitting the tractor. all the best, welcome to the forum.

no, power wash is not the prob, i blow my deck clean. think the challenge is that the belt train generates quite a lot of heat. eventually the bearing goes dry. am sure a grease zerk could be designed on the shaft w/galley, etc. manufacturers aren't going to do that. i can live with...

my take is that engineers & manufacturers will have none of a grease serviceable idler pulley bearing. they insist sealed will outlast zerk type. my experience tells me otherwise. a good compromise would be to have a replaceable press fit bearing in a pulley, ran across that type only once...

The owner didn't have enough sense not to run it out of coolant, does anyone actually think he could do a compression test or anything else mechanical for that matter??? I don't. 5030 give the poor guy a break. no sense adding insult to injury. best of luck to the owner, things happen

your rig sounds like a good setup for the OP. thinking just stepping up to a 6' or even to the bastard size 7' wouldn't make much sense. having said that, seems to me 12 acres is within easy reach even for a 5' hog. but sounds like he needs more tractor overall. if he's going to upgrade, i...

mx series is a good suggestion. assume your 8'twin hog is drag rather than 3pth?

probably the 3901

will it withstand hyd line pressure on a tractor repair?

ScottG mentioned the same in an earlier post. point well taken, & something i haven't considered in the discussion. i should pay more attn to grease type. maybe grease serviceable bearing types are more forgiving to different grease types than generic sealed bearings. one way to address...

points well taken, although not all people are created equal in their maintenance as you suggest, regards

if it's a fabricated hyd hose properly plumbed for either end, why not? i do that for my tight space kitchen plumbing all the time (realizing the pressure is far different). that option would be a good one if connections were solid.

agree, have a new line fabricated, extreme hyd pressure is not something to be messed with while patching a leak.

in terms of safety, beware of pinhole hyd leaks under pressure, you're prob aware of subcutaneous hydraulic fluid hazards if injected into your body, good luck

whatever after market hyd filter you choose, ensure that the micron count matches the factory filter. some are 25, others 10 for example

ScottG: most definitive info i've run across on the subject. i think the belt generated heat on a mower only shortens the sealed idler pulley as well. i need to find a good pulley supplier online now that my old one seems to be out of business. Fortunately have a good source for Kevlar belts...

good choice, mild steel & 6011 has been my own since college days for job like yours... cure it out before using, you know that, regards

great job. what type of steel? prob food grade mild... am sure it's not chrome or zink plate that i'd steer away from, prob wire feed mig on that?

something to keep in mind for Kevlar belts if you know your size. price you quoted for yours seems really high. & yes, idler pulleys are my mower's weak link. at least an easy fix https://www.vbelts4less.com/

another way to look at grease intervals is to decide if the service is severe or moderate. i'd guess 10 hr intervals would apply to severe as in my case. longer intervals should be fine for moderate

my 3+ acre compound is fraught w/feral hog damage, so every other mow. glad to have commercial heavy duty zero turn, the box store version wouldn't last a season or 2. glad to have grease serviceable spindles, regards

whoa, thanks, guess i missed something, a lot of parts i usually get at Jacks show up as discontinued. Northern Tool merge? anyway, thx on this

good points. sounds like overall you've had better luck than myself in pulley wear. overall, if that's what i have to address on the machine that i ask a lot of, the price is small. keep doing what you are doing. on this side, i do have extras on hand. anyone out there have a good...

good point. hadn't thought that, but variable deck heights probably do put lateral stress on pulley bearings. in addition to heat of course. i probably am making too much of the issue. wish Jacks Small Engine were back online (NTool is worthless in things like this). do excuse my...

What I'm getting at is that the reason you've never seen a greasable idler or pulley bearing is because it's not necessary. Moss Road respectfully disagree. again, it's empirical & the luck of the draw given ones own experience. having replaced idler pulleys several times (on zero turn, not...

and many with failed idlers too. guess it's all about one's empirical history in the field. if given the choice, i'd always favor grease serviceable pulley bearings. have yet to see one...

have both zerk & sealed spindle bearings on 2 mowers, neither have failed. could be spindle bearings can house far more grease than an idler pulley that is also subject to heat generated by belts. so i agree, all sealed bearings are not equal. my main complaint is that i am constantly...

agree with above posts. unfortunately, we don't always have the luxury of choosing quality sealed bearings when we purchase equipment agree w/pmsmechanic: sealed bearings are cheaper to produce. & just another throwaway item seems to be the way of manufacturing these days as a footnote, i...

true, & would require balancing as well. many idler pulley arms have zerks, just not pulleys. a lot of heat is generated from belt to idler pulley on my zero turn, just wonder of regular lube would lengthen pulley life

Lube question. so i've replaced a number of idler pulleys on my zero turn, a few on my pickup. never seen a grease serviceable idler pulley, all sealed. asked an engineer friend who designed pulleys, and a good small engine guy why so...they both said sealed bearings are superior & will...

thinking on the tractor side as well. many push their compacts way beyond capacity, digging w/forks is one of them.

agree. had great results filling voids around house perimeter w/foam fill insulation. in larger voids, i add some gravel as aggregate. works perfectly, have yet any rodents testing those areas. & easy to dig out if you need to make adjustments

agree forks are handy for moving logs & rocks, but i certainly would avoid using them as a pry bar excavating stubborn large rocks. moving, fine, i avoid excavating tho

meaning no dry single plate clutch, given our hyd shuttle wet pack. yes indeed the hyd brakes on 8540 are outstanding, & imho the transmission lock parking brake is far safer than conventional ratchet, one of the reasons i stepped up from 7040 to the 85 since i dismount frequently on slopes...