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New block made no difference. Jumper made no difference. I am hesitant to test across the cut-out since I don't know what it will do to the generator and it was $275 to replace the first time.

Since it was idling well before the new carb, I went back and put the old one back on. So, I am at the same spot as I started. Any uphill or the governor increasing fuel causes it to start missing and it will die if the uphill continues. Passes fuel qty. test. Has orange spark at all 4 cylinders...

Also with the "new" carb it just barely idles and runs with the jet set 1/2 turn out. if I turn it out further it makes no difference and of course, screw it in more just restricts the fuel and it ***** off. I assume the jet hole needs to be a little bigger? Or should I just send it back? Or...

If I jumper'ed across the resistor would I be able to tell if the voltage to the coil increases? I realize that would be hard on the points but it would only be a minute or 2.

This is exactly! how the wiring is currently. Since I don't have headlights there are only 8 wires total. I have taken pictures and verified it independently so I'm pretty sure the wiring is correct. However, I just did the 3 tests shown on the diagram and did only get 3V across B and C. I'll...

Put the new carb on it but while it made some difference it still starts to run rough under load. I put a spark checker on it and discovered that while it sits at idle I get an orange steady spark but pick up the rpm's and the spark gets erratic to non-existent. I only checked one cylinder since...

Damn, I hate it when I'm stupid! I was using ti mowing with it running fine and hit a big squirrel mound in the brush. Tractor quickly! bogged down and died. Restarted pretty easily but when I ran it to full power it started popping and running rough again, in both forward and reverse. I don't...

I think I've solved it. Since uphill backwards was full power that would eliminate the tank and fuel line. Same with the carb fuel filter. Checked the air intake for obstructions and nothing. Ordered new, better quality, carb and installed. Set the needle adjustments exactly as the FO-4 says...

Filled it with gas and no difference. It did have 3.5 gals so i don't think that was it. It has a brand new gas tank but I used the old cap. I'll try a different cap and then start backtracking thru the fuel shut off (also new) and then the carb.

I checked the floats and they looked fine. Throttle linkage and governor linkage looked fine. Put it back together and went to drive it around with similar results, any slight uphill causes it to stutter and cough and then die. BUT! when it died, I restarted at idle and then throttled up halfway...

My 8N, front mount distributer, 6V stumbles on the slightest uphill and will die if the incline is steep enough or long enough. Nothing changes on a downhill. I recently put a new carb on it since it sat for some years as well as a new fuel line. My first inclination is/was the governor and when...

Does anybody know where to find Aaron's instructions for setting valves? All the links that I've found go to All States Ag Parts and they don't show or list any how-to videos. They sure were easy instructions.

When I first installed a new head gasket on my YM240D, I was able to find a written specific sequence of head bolt torquing that was very useful. It showed the 3 torque stages, the specific nut sequence for tightening, and the number of re-torques and at what times. Is there such a thing still...

Still trying. installed new carburetor and shut off valve. Starts easy and runs well with just a half turn on the idle and 2 turns on the main. I ran it for a half hour on a flat area and thought I had finally solved it but as soon as I went down the hill and got to the bottom it started running...

Yes, the drain bolt in the carb. I loosened it so I could get it out quickly and then started it. When I engage the mower, and it starts to run rough then dies, I removed the bolt. I had a pint in less than 2 minutes (maybe 80-90 secs?) like the flow test said. It may have taken a second or 2...

Ok, I'm back at it! I was correct, the generator was fried and not producing anything. Of course, that means the replacement which took a week was damaged in shipment so another week to send a replacement to the replacement. Put the battery on a charger but it only shows maybe a half charge...

If I am looking at these diagrams correctly, the only difference in the physical wiring between it having a cutout and it having a VR, is that 1 wire comes off the generator to the cutout and 1 wire to the mounting block vice 3 wires from the generator to the VR and 1 wire to the mounting block...

I currently have 3. The original, a new one, and one that came with the new distributor, points, rotor and condenser assembled set that I currently have installed.:) I also have the same supply of points, rotors, condensers, and coils. Only have 2 resistors though...

I've narrowed it down to a specific at least. I am getting a weak spark when it starts and then as it runs the spark gets weaker as the battery dies. I replaced the generator and VR already with a new generator and cutout but it doesn't appear that I am getting any output to the battery/coil...

Quick question, is the condenser the same for front mount and side mount? They look the same in the tuneup kits but TSC only has the side mount kits in stock.

Minor problem with getting anything done today...Over 300 acres already and its only 5 miles away. Sorry if this is off-topic.

Cheap enough, I'll get one tomorrow. Thanks, Jim

Yep, already have one of those and it indicates the battery is good. I don't show that much when its running, about 6.5-7 volts but that should certainly be enough to power the coil. I'll replace the resistor block this morning and see what happens. i'm kinda clutching at straws here now.

Yes. The tractor had been sitting when I got it. Replaced condenser, coil, points, ignition switch, battery. That got it to turn over. Replaced gas tank, fuel line, and screens. that got gas to the carburetor. Replaced the carb and spark plugs. Charged battery, got it to start and run. After...

How can I tell for sure that the generator is charging? And is it possible that the battery itself has a bad cell? I'm starting to run out of parts to replace! :) I have a new resistor. I'll put it in and try.

No, not that I've seen. Isn't that for a 12V system? Unless its in the cutout box itself.

Back at again. Installed the new coil. Started good, sounded good. After about 20 minutes, I could here it occasionally missing and another 5 minutes it was definitely missing and starting to run a bit rough. Shut it off, checked spark and it barely had spark. I jumped the resistor so as to get...

More times than I can count. And that diagram is not what I have now that it has a generator /cutout installed. Although its pretty close, there is no wire to the VR tab since there is no VR, and the ammeter is electrical vice induction? so it has 2 wires. Haven't had a chance to do anything yet...

Back to where I was before I jammed the over-run coupler. Ran the 8N, original 6V Front mount for about an hour yesterday with out problems. Thought I finally had the bugs worked out. Ran it today, starting hearing a little missing and by the time I got it home had a definite miss. Shut it off...

Success! I hate leaving a repair unfinished so I drove into town, got the right punch, and took rangerfredbob's advice above (Thanks!) and cleaned out the Zerk hole of grease with q-tips and alcohol. The edge of the collar was just a hair over the pin. Turned it with a crowbar and the mower...

At least the later models had the side mount distributor. I know every time I reach in for that front mount distributor to do something with it, I'm gonna need a bandaid or 2!

I'll try a little harder when I get a decent punch. I do have an angle grinder if I end up needing to cut it off. What a PITA!!

That is what I am planning to replace it with but, in the meantime, it appears I have enough slack in the mowers PTO shaft that I could put that coupler on over the broken coupler and still attach the mower shaft. It might look ugly but is there any reason it wouldn't work? The broken coupler is...

As silly as it sounds, I bought my last rear tire for my 8N Ford on-line from Walmart. Great price and free delivery.

Have an 8N with a broken over-run coupler. It doesn't allow my brushhog to freewheel when I disengage the clutch. Any ideas on how to get it off? I assumed from looking at it you just removed the set screw and the Zerk fitting and pounded out the pin with a punch? I've beat on the end of the pin...

Never mind! As usual with this beast, something else broke and I'll have to get back to its running problems after I get that fixed. Anybody know how to remove a broken over-run coupler? Already pulled the set screw and the Zerk fitting but can't beat out the roller pin holding it. Or am I doing...

Swapped coil back to the old one. Much better. Ran up and down a steep hill in my back pasture and it reacted well to the governor kicking in when it got steep. Would have died before. Still not as bright a spark as I would like but I might just get my last field mowed before the Fire Dept...

Actually I am seeing that with the tractor off. Before, I was only getting 3-4V to the coil and it wouldn't power the points, so no start until I put a charger on it. Then it would run until the battery was low again. Haven't had to use the charger for starting since the new genny.

Just started it again. Ran fine till I put a load on it and then started stalling. Immediately, within seconds checked fuel. Good flow from carb. Checked spark next, orange spark on spark checker for all 4 cylinders. Battery is full charge. Don't think its points, I've checked them so many times...

Been trying to revive an old 8N after sitting for 7 years. 6 volt, with front mount distributor. Have replaced a fair bit of parts, new gas tank, fuel line, sediment bowl, and all 3 screens. Passes fuel flow test from carb without problem. New points, condenser, distributor, square coil, and...

Oddly enough, before I tried starting it, I noticed that the bolt-on muffler cap had been twisted, probably by a tree branch. Before I get too crazy, I'll drain the fuel, new fuel and air filter, and bleed the whole line. If I just take the muffler off will it have any effect on starting it...

Having trouble starting a Yanmar 240D. Used it and parked it. Now getting lots of white smoke but doesn't even make a pop even with a block heater making it warm. Last try I decided to adjust the valves and I was able to put a 8" wrench on one of the front pulley nuts and turn the crank fairly...

Oddly enough, I was just having this same discussion with the tractor restoration guy in town. Needed a 11.2-28 for a Ford 8N and he recommended trying Walmart! on line. $260+tax delivered to my door. Lot cheaper than the one I replaced on the other side.

Put him to work!:)

I am always finding, and looking for, loose bolts on my YM240. Here is one I missed. In the first pic you can see the silver head of the horizontal bolt that loosened up. As it slowly unscrewed it pushed out into the hub and hub bolts. Did a surgical job of slowly shearing both the hub and...

The service manual says the water temp sensor closes at 212 +/- 5' and since its in the top of the water pump I would assume if the light comes on that the head is 230+. Thats awfully hot from what I understand about the head and head gaskets.

A question that may seem simple but I can't seem to find an answer. Yanmar 240D (2 cyl. diesel), at what temp is it considered over-heating, and more importantly, where do you take that temp? I only have the idiot lights. I ran the tractor for 30 minutes in about 95' for 20 minutes and felt that...

Success! There is no problem that can't be solved with the proper application of force. Finally lost patience and stuck a pry bar into the u-joint and beat it off with a sledge hammer. Surprisingly, it worked! There was only 15 years of corrosion and heat holding it on. The new shaft, with a...

If the shear pin was what broke I would have. U-joints at the tractor was what broke and bent too far to be replaceable.

I've made progress! After soaking in PB Blaster I managed to move it down the shaft enough to see the edge of the mower shaft shear bolt hole. I then hammered a small pry bar with a pointed end into the hole and forced the PTO collar down the shaft about 1/2-3/4". I need to get it about 3/4"...

I removed what I believe to be the clip. It was a ring in a groove before the end of the mower shaft. The PTO shaft will turn on the transmission shaft but not freely. It takes a pry bar leverage to get it to turn. I've had it soaking in PB Blaster overnight but it seems to get right to the end...

I broke a couple u-joint bearings on my mower PTO shaft. Thought it would be more convenient to just replace the shaft but I cannot figure out how to remove the old shaft from the mower. I assumed that removing the shear bolt and the retaining ring would allow it to slide off but thats not the...

Here are some pics of the rear end attachment. Don't think you'll be very impressed!

First time I noticed this post. This is mine on my 240D. Looks like yours has a way heavier bucket.

Here is a pic of one of the pins installed on my 240D. They are really tough to find however and if the casing is broken may not work anyway. This pic was taken before I filled the gap on the right with a link for a limiting chain.

Was given a 240D that had been started a few times using starting fluid. Compression is really low, as might be expected. Ive used it during the last 2 summers getting it started by using a block heater for about an hour to get it to starting temp. It has good power and not much blow by after...

My grandfather was as frugal as they come. Later in life he added a back porch to the house that he had built years before. A little hard to see but you'll notice that the screening is all old screen doors that he had picked up at local dumps. He never threw anything away! '

Got this guy a couple of months ago. He was out pestering the goats!

Out getting some mowing done. Nothing heavy since this is the second cutting this year. 105F so a little bit warm! This should keep the Fire Dept. from writing a citation to clear the brush.

This will probably be a stupid question, but when I get on and off my tractor to do something, putting it back into gear always causes the transmission to slightly grind since the trans spins while I'm off. It's pretty minor but any idea how to get the transmission to synchronize when I get off...

Add a couple of rear wheel extensions like this and you won't have to worry till you need a snorkel!:laughing:

I have a Johnson Mdl. 25 FEl on my 240D. Any idea where I can find a manual?

Sure is prettier than mine! Nice...

I have been looking for the support ticket submission area and can't seem to find it. I tried the "Help" on the Home page but it takes me to the FAQ's and there isn't a submission area. I did a forum "search" without results. I am unable to post any more photos (using the same technique as the 3...

I finally hooked up my mower (5') and drove to around for a bit to check for problems. According to the manual the mower should be running at 540 rpm's with the engine operating in the neighborhood of 2200 rpm's. In driving it around the engine was running at about 1900-2000 rpm's and everything...

I imagine this has been asked multiple times before but I found it a little tough to phrase the question for the search. My Yanmar 240D doesn't have a temp gauge (although I am going to install one) so I purchased a laser temp gauge. Where on the engine does one check for the actual operating...