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Not drainage issues I wonder if something like 2” foam board on the brick would be good enough insulation? We have new ductwork that’s insulated. Do I leave the ductwork insulated? Should I remove the floor insulation? We also have a heat pump water heater in our crawl space that removes...

I placed these underneath all of our raised bed’s and I have not had any freeze issues in the other Carolina. I forgot to add the link. Auto drain valve https://www.lowes.com/pd/Orbit-irrigation-Auto-Drain-Valve/999930392 Our lines (water, phone and electrical) are just a few inches under...

Wonder if they ran it out of diesel and used the starter to get it going without bleeding the air out?

Thanks I didn’t know them made those.

We’re considering encapsulation of our crawl space, but I have some questions. What does one do with the foundation vent holes? If one doesn’t insulate the the foundation walls how does it save on HVAC costs?

I called Flailmaster first to get the skids and they said they no longer have them. I don’t doubt the demand for them is low likely very low.

My tractor’s (no quite 20 years old) loader hoses are very weathered to the point the steel braiding is showing. I have been replacing them as they blow. It’s a pain as they’re are so expensive. I really should just bite the bullet and replace the rest at the same time.

Looks like my Husqvarna 54” deck belt routing.

Can’t force them. I would limit a circular saw to 1/8 sheet material due the length of the cuts. For something like 1.5” strap I would likely do 1/4” thick.

I wanted a AGM battery an Walmart has a good price on them. I looked this up in my printed manual (Europe version) and it lists group 47 however, the PDF I have lists the 24F (both manuals are for the DA with the vertical headlights). I thought maybe it was just a quirk of the European manual...

Do you have existing battery operated tools if so I would get one the uses them as a first choice. We have a RIDGID 18 volt trimmer for the above reasoning. While I don’t doubt it is NOT the best one it works good.

The reason they put those cables back to the drawbar is people pull the front axles off of tractors when they’re stuck. Pulling it up by the front axle on to a trailer even with flat tires should not be an issue as it’s being pulled not being yanked on.

Whatever you do I would use a pole saw to cut it so you are as far as possible from the trunk.

FYI 917 (aka the Bush Hog FH174 or FH188 also) the skid shoes that go on either side are no longer available. Here is a drawing of them. They come from the factory with 5/16” plow bolts. However I couldn’t get any, so I used a 3/8” flat head cap screw/bolt. I used 1.5”x.25 strap steel 36”...

FYI 917 (Bush Hog FH174 or FH188 also) the skid shoes that go on either side are no longer available. Here is a drawing of them. They come from the factory with 5/16” plow bolts. However I couldn’t get any, so I used a 3/8” flat head cap screw/bolt. I used 1.5”x.25 strap steel 36” long to...

Love the front hitch!! 👍 Do you have a front PTO too?

Nice and you have a great place and view. Is that a NH 1069 bale wagon?

My Ford 917 will do it but the true 2” chunks likely won’t be shredded.

I agree with all of this except the last statement. Cummins 903 is alive and well as every Bradley and Paliden has them. I am sure there are others too.

https://agrishieldllc.com/product/hydraulic-sickle-bar-cutter/

Thanks Do the reds come on as a brake light when you push the brakes?

Red and amber light strips (it looks like the amber ones are no longer available): https://a.co/d/hfp0kRc The front is two amber vs the rear a red and amber to mimic the factory lights. Work light(4 total two facing rear/front): https://a.co/d/7WZAmix The flood lights work good but the...

Bump to see if I can get a response

I sharpened the bottom of the duck foot knives as that is the factory sharpened surface.

Mine are that way too. I’ve wondered if they had say 6” or so of gravel below them if they would be better?

I’m using the M-108381 blades on my 917, but have used the duck foot ones and both work great. I think the M-108381 are more durable if you’re chopping up brush. I resharpen them on the mower (use jackstands) with a small angle grinder (4” or 4.5”). Just don’t get them hot enough to show...

My ROPS lights are in bad condition and I am replacing them with LED lighting. I labeled all the wires prior to cutting the factory lights off. My question though is do the red lights (on bottom and only facing to the rear) do they flash when the hazards are turned on?

Since most decks are belt driven the blades likely won’t in the same position after a couple minutes.

The FH series flail mowers are based on the latest version of the Ford 917 flail. Any bladed or knife that works on the 917 will work on it too and even the knives for the JD 25a. I have used both y knives and the duck foot knives and they both work great. Right now I have some forged y...

It should be easy since your Super C has bar axles, so if you move your current wheels in enough (may have switch the dish inwards) and add another set of wheels as duals. Just make sure the two tires don’t rub together. Note your wheel weights should be mounted on the inside wheel.

Thanks for explaining it.

Question what do you mean by turn direction adhered to?

I really like that hose holder in the 1st picture!! 😀

Hadn’t thought of using a post pounder like that. Thanks

Thanks for posting your finds and fix!

If you have eliminated the easy maintenance things like filters etc then start with other things. Try decreasing the amount you have pressed your hydro pedal down as you go up the hill which increases power but decreases speed. Questions: Does your fuel filter remain full when it is bogging...

I just re-read my Woods C114 owner’s manual and I think I have the front of my C114 to low (or rear to high). It says the maximum rake front to back is 1.75”.

I’m thinking about changing mine so what do you set it to? Is 1”, 2” or say 3” equal to slight?

I think the angle of the two sides of the disc makes a big difference in how hard it is to pull. In your linked video the disc is NOT angled much. If it was set to cut more with the outside ends of the disc much closer to the tractor (more of a V shape) it would be much harder to pull...

Ram uses an aluminum hood.

We had ditchers that were similar but the blades that cleaned the sediment out were much longer see attached picture. That one has two disc blades (great for not getting caught on roots) and is much heavier than needed for cleaning ditches.

I don’t have a Landpride flail rather I have a Ford 917. And I have swapped between duck foot and Y type knives with no issues. As long as each station/mounting point has a knife or pair of knives (based on knife type) I don’t see how there would be a balance issue.

We maybe some will come back. Did it wait until fall to germinate?

It is cereal rye so it’s no oh well. Thanks

I planted rye last fall in our pastures and it is headed out and drying. Once the seed drops will it lay dormant until fall and reseed itself?

Just block the cylinders in the up position and then unhook the hoses from the loader and connect your flail mower hoses. Just make sure the blocks keep the cylinders up don’t get knocked off and letting the loader drop while mowing.

That’s a firebreak plow.

Check your battery cables and clean them and your grounds first. The battery cables are known to have internal corrosion issues

Two more pictures

Here’s mine with some oak. We had five trees taken down because they were too close to the house three we knew were rotting/hollow one weren’t certain of but it was rotting inside, but the biggest one +32” was NOT rotting in the base, but there was some slight rotting in a crotch. These are...

When I use the Y blades I don’t typically sharpen them but I will reverse them. I have been using the heavy duty forged Y blades and they last good for me and they are reversible. That said if they are damaged I replace them. I have a set of the duck foot knives and in the past I have...

If you’re looking at ditch bank flails it’s more about the weight of the tractor. When a ditch bank flail is offset it has a bunch of leverage due to the offset.

That is the power steering system. The main hydraulic system fill port and dipstick is on the rear of the tractor.

I was just wondering the reason as have a Stihl one on my MS361. How long do compression release valves last?

What makes the Husky version better?

Thanks I was given a stump grinder and sharpening the teeth was on my list of things to do.

Muhammad got in the burger ad.

There are a few ways. Take a grinder/dremel tool with a cutting wheel and cut parallel to the shaft part way through that inner bearing race. Then take a cold chisel and hammer drive it into that cut and it will split bearing race and then it will pull off easily. If you can get a...

Here’s another one

Got a link for one of these drains?

Typically they are push connections but may have a small spring clamp. And yes they can be done without removing the injectors.

Are you sub-soiling new ground or previous cropped / worked ground?

You might look up higher on your tractor and see if the oil is running down there. Under the seat there are some fittings that can leak and make it look like it is from down lower. It’s much easier and less dollars to fix. I remember seeing a thread about it here.

Well didn’t get any answers, but yes you can install the first valve without removing the right rear tire. That dangling wire tie points right at the valve.

Serviced my TC45DA cleaned out the fuel tank and replaced the loader valve as it quit lowering the bucket. To do: Build a new light setup for the ROPs Add rear hydraulic valve Installation of switches in permanent location

Seems like it’s not operational per his post, so that’s likely on the high side.

Messicks is a good option if you don’t have a local dealer.

I would guess that fence had a snow drift or piled snow left on it. If was cows I think they would have popped those boards off as the posts are leaning from the inside.

I don’t think it’s currently happening. I purchased the tractor in 2022. I think a water separator like on a Racor type is a good thing since now I am using a 55 gal drum for diesel. My drum has a Racor filter on it that filters the fuel before it goes into my equipment tanks. I have always...

I bought my trailer new in 2003 I am just now needing to replace the deck boards and not even all of them must be replaced. I did treat the deck once, but it has never been parked inside. That said I keep it where it is in the sun constantly so it dries out regularly and I think that really...

I am thinking about adding the pre fuel filter under the tank on the right side of the tractor and attach it to the ROPs. Will having this new filter below the main filter be an issue? I would think the lift pump would still be able to draw fuel up to the factory filter.

I am going to disassemble the old one and see if I can see what went wrong.

Can this link in the New Holland Operating forum be fixed? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=nhown&Number=89244&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

Has anyone tried to install the NH rear remote valve without removing the right rear tire?

I put the new grommet in and line with a valve in the line real close to the outlet. The valve is because I am thinking about adding a pre filter to keep the big junk out of the factory filter. Another big plus is it will have a water separator bowl and drain.

Well swapped in the new valve and the loader works like it’s supposed to.

I didn’t know about that .36” might save me someday. ;) And thanks for the quote.

I found out the valve is a Prince valve called and I talked to them. They said nothing in the valve is rebuildable other than the detents and the joystick connections. They stated off with it being a coupler issue but I had already swapped them out. Then a hose issue which when I swapped...

I thought it was more than 102”???

I was surprised by how little junk/sludge seemed to come out since the supply line to the filter had plugged up before.

What’s missing?

Another thought is to check with a Mahindra dealer as IH sold the design of this series to them and they build it. They started with the Mahindra 350/450.

Try take the damaged one to a hydraulic store/shop and see if they can match it. The price will still suck though.

Well I pulled my fuel level sensor and it tested at 250 and 33 ohms, so it seems like the float sensor is not bad.

I ordered a new valve.

Well I removed the valve this morning and checked #9 mentioned above. I turned a very slight amount light less than a 1/32 of a turn, so I don’t think that’s the problem. I’m thinking I need to get a new valve unless someone has another idea.

I see it most mornings starting around 5:00am.

Is this grommet just push into place? I’m guessing lube it with oil/grease if it is just pushed into the tank.

Once I got mine out on my TC45DA I used this to replace that valve. It threaded right in it also works great and it’s easy to drain my antifreeze. EZ-201(NPT 3/4-14) EZ Oil Drain... Amazon.com

We just have 2 peach trees, 1 apple tree and a pear tree. Could I just put the neam oil in a sprayer to apply it to our trees? I did see an add on to a leaf blower on Amazon. I wonder how it would work? https://a.co/d/9jVLtFV

That’s what I was thinking about doing that too.

Lube it up then take a chunk of say 1.5” pvc and use it and a hammer to tap it into place.

What type of valve is needed my a splitter do auto return of the ram hands free?

Looks like the inside one is for the lifting and lowering of the three point hitch. The outer one is the draft control for the three point hitch to regulate depth of a ground engaging implement like a moldboard plow. Someone else may have a better description of draft control than I do.

How long is it too please.

Nice setup! How much does that trailer weigh and what are it’s specifications?

I like your suggestion. Background my joystick was working loose when I first got the tractor. I finally got it stopped by adding a locknut to the bottom of the shaft. So it may have vibrated #9 loose and be worth checking. It will probably require removing the whole valve to get to #2 due...

It kinda kept doing on that day (more than a year ago), but it didn’t keep doing it.

Yes it would lift and curl before this happened. I forgot a detail that happened a year or two ago. I was lifting a load and it would drop slightly before lifting.

My service manual has the loader valve in the hydraulic section. The attached pictures show the relevant flow diagrams for the positions not working and the parts breakdown. It looks like in the first two flow diagrams the oil flow is not flowing properly as it is only lowering in the float...

I just got a used three point log splitter and I wonder how slow it will be. I’ve thought about a PTO driven pump and tank which would allow me to use my older IH tractor without remotes. This would also free up my loader tractor to move logs.

One other thing is they make a primer to put on concrete when applying a second layer to promote adhesion.

That’s the thing the valve’s movement and detents feel just like they always have felt. I am leaning toward just replacing it with a new one.

Well swapping out both (both sides of each too) the couplers on circuit that raises and lowers the loader arms did NOT fix it. It still only lowers when in the float position and still creeps up in the neutral (no movement position) at the same rate as when this started happening. So I guess...

Self leveling concrete works, but I have NO experience with it outside only with interior applications. We have used it on three different projects with once being in my garage. Self leveling concrete is not a true concrete, so not sure how it would work outside. I does work though, but lifts...

I did have to blow my fuel line back towards the tank as it was not flowing enough to keep the fuel filter full of fuel when mowing with my 9.5’ rotary cutter. Which is the reason to consider adding another fuel filter.

I wonder if twisting it would make it prone to leaking?

It looks like the fuel tank outlet on my TC45DA is a grommet with a barbed 5/16” fitting pushed into it. See attached pictures (#20 & 21). Has anyone tried turning that barbed fitting to point to another location? I am wanting to add a pre-filter to keep my factory filter from getting so...

What size are the WG24 teeth?

You didn’t I just wasn’t clear and didn’t have a lot of time to find the NH version. I’m glad I looked at TSC online as the local store had only 1/2” couplers and only one set.

I found them on Tractor Supply and they are Pioneer brand and they are a good price.

Sorry I was more referring to the size I’m having a hard time finding the male end for New Holland version (COUPLING 3/8" NPTF) Part# 9846343. I will look at the sites you mentioned to see what they have.

Does this look like the right size of couplers? My loader AG couplers look smaller than my 1/2” AG couplers for my remote valve. https://a.co/d/frxzJEz I need two pair anyway for a grapple.

No worries I’m just slow at getting it 🤪🤓

I guess they are just tight and being behind the loader mount mast only lessons have a bit of leverage. I’m thinking I may have to take the right floor board off and then take the line to the vice for removing the couplers.

If it’s inside the lid then the tilt cylinders are at maximum extension and that is a cylinder’s weakest point.

Are the couplers locktighted on as I can’t budge either the one at all.

I like those too. However, I wish each tooth had them so they could be used for raking backwards. By having the teeth at the back of the grapple the bucket tilt cylinders would be closed/retracted and in their strongest position. Thus keeping one from bending the cylinder shafts.

Should I look at getting both the male and female versions of the coupler or just the female side?

I loosened and reseated each of the four couplers, but it didn’t change the issue. I then swapped the lift and tilt lines (all four) and the symptoms switched in sync with the line swap. In others words the tilt position lifted the loader and lowered it without issue. The lift position which...

I’m going to try lubrication but the joystick moves freely just like it always has since I’ve owned it.

I’m thinking my first try is to disconnect and reconnect the loader hydraulic couplers securely. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc-29-da-hydraulic-problem.323869/

I think it was shuttering slightly in the lower position. Hadn’t noticed the hoses when trying, but will check them out. Also, in the neutral position (no movement position) the loader has started raising slowly like 1/8” to 1/4” per minute. I yanked on the couplers and neither pair felt...

It locks into the float position see first picture. Here are some pictures of the joystick connection and it looks normal.

I think so, but will have to check to be certain. My joystick has worked loose so it rotates, but it doesn’t affect its performance though.

If I remember correctly it is directly attached. The float position is in front of the lower portion, so you have to go through the lower position to get the joystick to the float position.

The joystick for my NH 250TL loader on my TC45DA has stopped lower the loader except when in the float position. What is a likely cause and how to rectify the issue? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc45da-250tl.553336/

Today I went to use TC45DA and its 250TL loader. The loader went up fine and lifted a log splitter without issue, but wouldn’t lower the load when the joystick was pushed into the lower position. However, when I pushed joystick into the float position it lower as I would expect it to. I...

Just saw this in @Hay Dude category #2. https://charleston.craigslist.org/grd/d/goose-creek-2015-fendt-724-vario-hrs/7822916249.html

Here is the Canadian you tube and it shows him prying it up.

I would make sure all bolts are out (I see one still in place on left side where ground strap is) and lines are disconnected. Then take a thin chisel or thick putty type knife and drive it between the mating surface in multiple places and that should break it free. If not try a pry bar.

My TC45DA lights are just like that. There are two bolts holding each light on and an about 1” hole for the wires to go through.

Got a poor your setup?

You could try mounting them vertically to decrease the width. However, I think that sheet metal will get damaged if you hit them with limbs.

My TC45DA had that same setup and I am replacing them with some leds in a steel framed box. This is the layout on a piece of plywood.

Sorry I wasn’t clear. I’m only referring to the tank to rear axle sealing surface that is horizontal. The valve should have o-rings IIRC.

For what you’re doing I would just use silicone as it’s not containing any pressure.

I have not done what you are doing, but I don’t think there is. That plate is for making adjustments to the 3 point system.

Ouch

Not sure if that would allow you enough space to clean and reseal the opening below the lift housing between it and the rear axle housing. There are some YouTube videos done by a Canadian guy on rebuilding one of those series tractors. I think it’s a 444 that he did.

Not sure on the exact weight but it is a big chunk of cast iron. The three point lift arms also have to be disconnected and those upper lift arm crosses can be very difficult to remove.

Landpride and Woods make mower with swinging blades that are 90” wide and might make a good source for parts for the build. https://www.landpride.com/products/307/fdr36%20series%20grooming%20mowers https://woodsequipment.com/products/finish-mowers/rd990x-rough-cut-finish/rd990x/

Yeah my suction filter (1st two pictures in the post I quoted) looked like that the first time I took it out to clean it. I think the hydraulic tank/valve assembly has to come off to take off the transmission cover off, but I am not certain of that. If you have to take off the tank (where seat...

I don’t know anything about the gas engine. The hydraulic system only has the two screens in it that are posted above. The suction one is larger and the other is a bit bigger than the diameter of a pencil. The original poster has posted pictures of them.

I thought I remembered hearing that the battery buffer/smooth out the electrical spikes of welding rather than going straight to the electronics/computers. I think you would have to disconnect all grounds as well as the battery to really isolate the electronics. FWIW Off the top of my head I...

Engine oil or hydraulic and gas or diesel engine?

This is it. Spray some lube on the front edge of the pipe and work the hose back and forth while twisting and once the lube gets between hose and the tube it will get moving.

That one is in the valve assembly. The suction screen is the larger hose coming straight out of the bottom of the tank which is what your seat is mounted to. There is a bolt with a metal tab that holds the suction screen in place. Remove the bolt and tab and then disconnect the hose/hose...

Why would you get rid of tires that are only half worn out? If winter is a big concern (spring is around the corner) get a set of winter tires and wheels. Being in NH a set of true winter tires/wheels would make sense and then run your current tires/wheels spring/summer/fall.

Concerning the hydraulic issue have you cleaned the suction screen/filter? It’s under your seat by your right calf when sitting on the seat of your tractor?

Something to consider about your ride quality is rim size. I believe with the same diameter tire on various rim diameter 16”, 17”, 18” or 20”. A smaller diameter rim with the same height tire will ride better with in the same psi and maybe even at a higher psi due to the taller sidewall...

How well does the BadBoy suspension on their mowers work?

I have wondered if one could make a hydraulic cylinder actuated brake for a pull type bush hog to help keep it from pushing the tractor around. I was thinking about a piece of steel pushed against the bush hog tire(s).

I bought my trailer new in 2003 and it has some generic pressure treated wood on it and it’s getting close to needing some new deck boards. I treated it once or twice with diesel and ATF mixed and the deck is still solid enough for my TC45. However, my hay guy quit driving his Kubota 7040 on it...

The transmission and the hydraulic system on this series of IH tractors are separate reservoirs. Unless it’s an industrial version with the common sump system (backhoe version) (may not have the 3 point hitch). Somewhere I have a picture of the hydraulic connection to the common sump setup...

My IH 424 has generally always had milky looking hydraulic oil. The hydraulic system is really only used for the power steering and the three point hitch. This limits how warm the hydraulic oil gets and it’s not enough to cause the moisture to evaporate. The lack of a breather on the...

I regularly mow around my pond and in the worst places it’s 22 degrees without issue. That said I won’t mow it if it’s wet as it would be bad if I slid my tractor in the pond.

Here’s the thread I posted when mine quit working however, mine started working again without me doing anything and hasn’t given any issues since it started working again. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc45da-electric-two-speed.468101/

There are two wires on the lower left side below the driver’s foot that activate the servo for the two speed (turtle/rabbit). Make sure those two wires have not been disconnected.

Yes it shuts off due to thermal and have to wait for it to cool down and start again.

Interesting I have not heard that. However, the only time I use the warning/strobe lights is mowing along the road, so I want those animals (behind the wheel) to fully be nervous about me being there.

One of this winter’s projects is to replace my TC45DA ROPs lights with ones mounted in a steel framed box. I’m using 1/8”x3” wide strap to make the boxes. Along with LEDs, I’m also adding strobes and work lights.

Thanks I guess if I can keep my old Craftsman 120 volt / 140 amp mig until I got it figured out. My old weld duty cycle only 20% and that’s a pain to deal with.

Im considering one of those to replace my 120 volt mig welder. So you are saying they don’t work well for sheet metal correct? Is it the lack of control of the wire speed? Also, have used .23/.25 wire?

That’s a cool idea, but kinds expensive, but if it includes an air compressor that’s a bit of a plus for airing up tires etc.

Yes 2500/3500 and up trucks ride rougher than the 1/2 ton trucks. However, the newer trucks ride much better than those same class trucks of the mid 80s and earlier. My 97 GMC K3500 rode really well for a one ton I thought. However, now I have a 2500 Ram that I really like the way it rides...

Do you think one that’s just 0.5L work rather than the 0.75L?

Thanks for the name to look for. However, Motion Industries shares a common theme with accumulator big dollars.

Where did you get yours? I want to get one for my TC45DA.

Correct it’s not a rule but rather an example.

One thing that may help is to add an accumulator (aka soft ride is one of the terms used for it) to the loaders lift circuit. An accumulator will cushion the shock loads so they don’t have the impact that breaks things. I know bigger tractors can have them.

Do you this it would work to just breakup manure clumps if it was reversed and pulled forward in a pasture? I think a buddy has a landscape rake, I may try borrowing it to do a test run before buying one.

Is that a rear discharge deck and if so how do you like it?

I’m not understanding the reason why for removing the fertilizer the animals produce and then putting down a commercial fertilizer. I know horse manure isn’t great fertilizer but it’s something. If the clumps are broken up the parasites are not an issue.

We have a chain harrow 12’ wide (two six ft sections) but it is a pain to deal with when not using it.

I don’t want to collect the manure I want to break the clumps up and scatter it. So I’m thinking of getting one to breakup the manure. I’m thinking of turning the tines rearward like for pushing going in reverse sine most have the ability to reverse the tines. However, I would pull it...

The chain on the right tire looks like it has the inside side chain HOOK on the outside putting the latch on the inside.

Replaced the one line from the transmission case and the filter housing and six O-rings with Kubota O-rings. Fired it up and no leaks. 😎

Yes they are I was merely saying that straight six engines are typically long strokes and produce their torque at lower RPMs. Any engine with a longer stroke tends to produce more torque than a shorter stroke engine.

It also looks like the OP’s inside side chain may be not tightened enough and that might help. Ruffdogs picture of the latch is correct!!

The high pressure in storage makes sense.

Cool I’m sure I’ve had them hog out a hole to big to self thread the steel tube.

I don’t think I would ever want/have a double layer of cross chain.

After some reading I’m considering nylon air line that’s used on semi trucks and trailers as it’s available in 1/2”.

How long have you been using it? What glue and primer did you use? Have you protected it from welding and grinding sparks?

Not sure I believe PVC is a good option. I know the pipe is rated high enough but what about the glue joints and fittings

Looks like the clevises in the red circle connect to the side chain as do the hooks on the opposite end. Make sure the open side of the cross chain hooks are facing away from the tires.

Are the air line kits available at like Northern Tool and Amazon a good option? I want to run air around my garage it’s 20’x30’. https://www.northerntool.com/products/rapidair-maxline-3-4in-100ft-master-kit-compressed-air-piping-system-model-m7500-20923 https://a.co/d/bsraXO5 What concerns...

Can those gears be replaced without splitting the tractor?

Good job. 👍 Can you post some pictures of your guards for your lights on the ROPS?

I have 18’ car hauler with 3500lb axles and 7k gross. I always wish I got at least 10k or 12k and it was 20’ long or more.

No it’s the long stroke of the straight six including the naturally aspirated (non turbo/ no blower), but the turbo can increase it if the boost comes in at a low enough RPM.

I only guess his meaning, but I would take it to high torque at low RPMs aka just above idle RPMs. Straight six cylinder engines are known for having more torque at lower RPMs than V8s.

I know that but the other users of it won’t use the lower setting. 🧐

No just got the flashlight and it chewed up the 1st pair of 123 batteries since Christmas, so I am thinking about getting the rechargeable ones.

How much is this type locator?

Have you tried the stream light rechargeable batteries in your polytac?

That’s large row crop farm tractor and so likely has an adjustable width front axle to match crop row spacing. Therefore it can be narrowed or widened. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/8/2/822-massey-ferguson-1080-dimensions.html The only wrinkle is if it has a solid front axle...

If the front seat folded flat you’d be able to get 12’ boards inside. 😜

I didn’t see them on the Massey website????