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Went to a place that sells stovepipe and they have whats like a rubber boot, with a lead ring that kinda forms around the metal ribs and screws on. But the rubber boot to size (similar to a roof vent) Yes it has held up

Hot water and heating with electric are the biggest users of kwh Im around 2500kwh/mo in the winter months, ~1200-1300kwh in spring and fall with little to no HVAC and 1800kwh/mo in the summer with AC Still blows my mind some get down sub-500kwh per month. But 2 kids, lots of laundry, showers...

IT seems there has been "talk" of it for years

Was that everything full of fuel? 14-ply.....good tires. Just did it on my trailer. But will probably add another 200# to your weights. Dont leave much room for other stuff, extra bucket, tools, etc. You flirting with the 26k mark

Not on the same scale, but I do alot of ag drainage. Corrugate pipe (tile as we call it) Its uncommon to see mains much over 12" diameter. And often times we need to tie 4" or 6" laterals into the main. Yet the specific "tee's" to reduce to that size are $$$ So we simply use the appropriate...

No, its the same as every other MX. Just dialing back the HP to offer something more affordable

Yea, certainly a scam. If your in the market, you will get good at spotting them. The pictures, the way the ad is written, price, etc. Over use of characters in the title (like the exclamation point) and the copy and paste from a brochure....you will get it. That said.....aside from clearing...

Ive always thought the spring hangers on 12k-14k equipment trailers look cheap and weak. Ive repaired more than one shackle mount before, You look at how thin the metal is, and how little its welded.....then picture the stress when backing, and jacknifing a trailer with a load.....Im surprised...

Not sure. I know it has been around for some 20-25 years.

My experience is, its like trying to use a hole saw without the pilot bit.

Easily.

Older thread. Did the OP ever get it figured out? Test hydraulics? Bad advice to say that a loader leaking down is seals and bypassing internally. (for anyone else in the future that reads this) So I wanted to make that correction

Prayers for his friends and family. RIP Bird

Second or third row down from the top looks like you would have room to do a "tie-back" with geo grid. Its cheap insurance. While the geo lifts may not push....you still have alot of material to backfill. And dirt or sand absolutely will push. Its imperative that the backfill be with washed and...

I do alot of excavation for retaining walls for a local company that specializes in retaining walls. First...not sure what you mean by tiebacks. If its what I think.....thats where you use the geo-grid sandwiched between the blocks and runs behind the the wall and ties into the dirt. Sand is...

Id go the bottle jack route. Tring to get enough heat to make a difference over such a wide area is gonna be tough with a torch. And hitting it with a sledge is noisy and more work. Bottle jack and be done

IT will be fine. You wont be able to help but to go slow. No down pressure. But the HP is fine. The people saying it isnt must not have drilled many holes

YEa, there is no regen on loader lift. Float is totally a different function. I was just using that for comparison as what a the movement of the joystick would feel like. Raise and curl are only one position on the joystick and comes to a hard stop. Lower...it moves further, past a detent and...

Larger wont hurt. But if this is indeed for the 4310, you only have 8.6gpm, NOT 13.9. So either valve would work. Honestly if all else is equal, go with whats cheaper

Are you talking about your 4310? If so, you DONT have 13.9gpm. Thats total flow of which 5.3gpm is JUST the steering. You only have 8.6gpm available for loader and implements. But beyond that, whats the difference in the two diverters other than 13 vs 15 gpm? Price?, Brand?, availability...

Need a little more detail about the OP's situation to best answer. But in general....no dont splice it in conduit. Direct burry secondary wire wire gets spliced from time to time if its NOT in conduit. They have special splices made for it. Basically a barrel/set-screw type splice with a seal...

A competent hydraulic shop....one that specializes in cylinders....can make a new rod. I had to have a new rod made for a bobcat 334 mini-ex. I think it was like a 1.5" rod about 3' long. Cost a couple hundred bucks. But they thread the one end of the rod to mate to the piston, and weld your...

Thats what they call a regen circuit. Some manufactures DO call it a "fast dump".....allthough in real world practice....it actually SLOWS down the dumping when dumping a full load of dirt or stone. With the weight in the bucket, Gravity can act on the cylinders faster than the tractor can...

This is what is in every kubota loader manual (for at least the last 20 years) Gotta watch the unit of measurement. Some are in newtons, some in lbs, and some in kg But bucket rollback force is a measurement all on its own. And if you look at the graphs (which is in KG for loader...

For further reference...there is actually an SAE procedure for loader testing. J732 It goes in depth on measuring breakout....but mostly applied to large wheel loaders and skid loaders. It (breakout) can be measured with either curl or lift cylinders. But it must specify which and which pivot...

No. Common misconception. No idea where it started or who came up with breakout force somehow having anything to do with curl, or even the mention of somehow using both functions to "increase" the lift potential. Nope. Its simply the lift capacity AT GROUND LEVEL. If it had anything to do...

^^^^^^ Look at these pictures BCP posted. It doesnt matter which way the cylinder is pointing They are BOTH extending to raise the loader

You are missing the fundamental point. IT DONT MATTER WHICH WAY THE CYLINDER IS ORIENTED It STILL EXTENDS to LIFT the loader

One more thing to try. It could be the 3ph feedback slightly out of adjustment. Sometimes when raising the 3ph all the way.....it goes to its max height.....but is STILL trying to go higher because of slight feedback adjustment issue. If that happens....you can usually hear the tractor labor a...

3/4-10 isnt a common acme thread. If you can indeed get the direct replacement for $35.....probably well spent.

Breaking down your loader.....the manual shows WAY more in-depth lift capacities than just a max height @ pin rating I'll give you three numbers from the LA1153 manual. The lift specs...IN POWER POSITION....and 800mm forward of the pin (~32") Breakout (which is lift capacity at ground level)...

Makes no difference. Surprises me that people still think this. As mentioned....regardless of orientation, the cylinder must EXTEND to raise the loader. Therefore the area of the rod has ZERO effect on its lift capacity in either orientation. The manufactures decision on which way to orient is...

Yep, I saw the post, and the expensive nut. Doesnt call out what thread it is. And just because the thread looks "flattened" doesnt always mean its an acme thread. If he has the model of the drillpress I am sure it can be sourced

3/4-10 is probably not acme threads. Probably just standard threads. Have you tried just a cheap hardware 3/4-10 nut to see?

Did you ever get the pressure tested? Pretty sure they are indeed 60mm cylinders. Every 100psi is gonna be ~200 pounds at the pins. So if its a few hundred psi low...could be easily robbing you of 400-500# actual lift capacity. Larger cylinders are just more work than they are worth...

Sounds more like a pity party and not sharing ideas and thoughts.

Its a tractor forum. Who cares how the homepage is sorted....is this kindergarden?

I try and do as much mechanical work as I can as well....obviously shop rates are expensive. Problem is so much electronics and computers. I'd say the vast majority of "problems" (not maintenance items like brakes, battery, belts, etc) is electrical. And one cannot even find wiring schematics...

Late to the party as usual....but what and how are the cylinders drifting? Are they extending or retracting? You are saying that if you leave the loader suspended....that it both drops the loader AND dumps the bucket. 1. The lift cylinders will now allow this to happen. Thats in the valve. As...

Dang no one has this loader? OR a 3540/3550 or a 4035/5035 tractor?

I edited the title. ML120-ML130 loader.....Anyone know the length of the jackstand to save me some trial and error to take the thing off. Was missing when I got it used. Seems the mahindra part number shows for the 4035-5035 tractors as well as the 3550 and 3540. I havent asked a dealer yet...

Couple pics of it sitting in the shop. I'm gonna call today and get a manual for it. Really need the length of the loader stand so I can take it off. Surprised no one here has commented? Maybe dealer will know?

The pin numbers I reference are the numbers on the actually relay. All little cube automotive relays use that numbering

Sounds like a different style. This one is a leg that gets unpinned and pulled out of the cross tube .. and repinned underneath.

Not really a comparison thread. But I now own both these machines. Just picked up a '17 3550 with R4's, cab, loader, 4wd ~600hrs Some may remember my quest a few years ago saying I wished a mfg would produce a tractor...HST.....with something larger than 9.5x16 or 12-16.5 front wheels/tires...

So I decided to add a Mahindra 3550 to by fleet. Hst, cab, loader, 4wd...600hrs. A few things need addressed Tie rod boots are both shot. So I'll fix that. But also the loader kickstand is MIA Don't even know what a dealer would charge or what one would cost. But I just plan on making one...

Any time I work with those anderson connectors I always solder them on instead of crimp. I know there are arguments both ways....but not having one of those expensive crimpers either....I work with what I got. And I can solder

Are you judging this with something attached? With a blade or something on the rear.....you are only using the top portion of the lift movement anyway. Lowering the lever all the way, the implement physically stops the arms from going any lower..... Try unhooking the implement and see if the...

oldnslo beat me to it but I think he is spot on. not familiar with the 1510, but most tractors that have a loader.....feed the 3ph from the PB of the loader. So if the feedback linkage is out of adjustment causing constant pump load....moving the joystick on the loader allows an outlet for...

I still say a hard no as well. I have built may garages myself. If you built yours....wheres your engineering print for the trusses? They list the designed loading as well as a CSI summary. (combined stress index). Which is usually a value under 1.....meaning that at 1.0 is the MAX design of...

I'll admit I havent worked on vehicle wiring on anything much newer than 2015-2016....but havent seen the trend to CCA wire in autos. At least not on anything OEM

I would analyze the building first.....way too many details left out to even know if its a good idea.....but in general....trying to hang a mower from a wooden truss....sounds bad. But the plan you describe with a single point lift....dont even know why you would need a spreader bar.... Guess...

If you have QH compatible implements....get a QH Then the pins that hold the QH on.....use bolts and nylocks because removing and swapping is a MUCH less frequent thing....and possibly never if ALL your implements are QH compatible

Yes, wiring an led...or some sort of light to 87 gives you positive confirmation that charge circuit works every time you push the dump button. Honestly a isolation relay and confirmation light could be packaged into a nice unit (if they already dont make something like that) and probably...

Not sure when I did mine with actual copper. But its still alive and kicking. Actually, since I did the direct wire....I dont care about the trailer battery at all. I can completely disconnect the trailer battery and it still dumps fine. I actually use that anderson connector now to power the...

Regarding the wind loading......Thats why I had the site prep I did. Sinclair engineers were good to work with and giving me options. Obviously pictures are hard to convey slope/elevation. My my setup has 5 posts in the ground. First post to last post is something like 52' long. And over that...

Some of your questions I honestly cannot answer. No idea how they fair in hail. Regarding mounting high to use as a semi-carport.....there is a gap between panels. So if your idea is to shade whatever is under it should work. But to keep rain off....that wont be ideal. The issue with a solar...

Its a credit. Not a deduction. So if you pay federal taxes at all....you will get the credit. But its what they call a "non refundable" credit. Meaning it cannot make your taxes go BELOW $0 whereas you get back more than you pay in. For example....you work all year and pay in $10k But with...

Solar noonish reading today. Panel tilt approx 36°

SREC's is something new. I had to google that. Interesting concept.....have never heard of such a thing or even understand how it works....or even if it works with a rural coop for electric provider....which is member owned and not a public utility. The brief looking that i did seems to show...

Everyones taxes are different. My house is paid for but I still have deductions. And still pay taxes. But I suppose if you are retired and have 0 tax liability then you would never get any of it back. But 99.99999% of the people that can even afford solar....are paying federal taxes

No ground rods at array....but is a single1/2" ground rod gonna do any more than the 5 c-channel posts driven in the ground 9' down? This also doesnt tie in at my my house. It ties in at my meter. So whatever "surge" device would not be indoors anywhere

What approach?

I'll have to do some research. But honestly the topic hasn't come up much at all in any of the reading I have done about solar. And none of the companies I priced inverters from and/or asked questions about mentioned anything about it. I would have thought one of them would have tried to sell...

No idea with direct bury PV wire. Not sure voltage or potential v-drop with dc. I used micro inverters. So technically my PV wires are just the length attached to the panels and plug right into the inverters. From there the trunk lines are 10/3 TC-ER cable. But I have no issues at all with...

Thanks. Yea I have wired more than a few things. Years being industrial multicraft. Had many job titles from electrician, millwright, machinist, fabricator, etc

Actually the mounts are pretty evenly balanced. But yes with wind it's a lot of load Especially the ability to go 55 degrees. Think about your barn wall.....take away 3 of the walls and the roof and a 20mph wide is probably gonna lay it over. Yes this was a learning experience. As with...

Just the grounding. No surge protectors or arresters or fancy stuff

A little but apparently not enough. Gonna add a few grounds to appease inspector. I guess NEC is a bit redundant and stupid

Yes aluminum URD wire. Bout all that is used here for service installs. And yes the wire ends were coated with the no-ox stuff

The stoned area is approx 18' x 60' so the excavated and disturbed area is slightly larger

After putting my system up....that racking exceeded my expectations. Super easy. The only challenging part was post depth. They spec'd me a ~7' deep hole 24" diameter and filled with concrete. Part of that was panel selection as I went with relatively large 540w panels. But the whole process...

No......one person can do it if you dont have 5 people. They recommend going down the line and doing 5 cranks at a time. After we finished last night I cranked it up to ~32 degrees. Which was about 70 cranks each. Took about 10 min going 5 at a time. But if I keep up with it monthly or so....I...

To answer some questions..... 30% fed credit will apply come next tax season. Currently my electric rate is ~12 cents per kwh. My electric company net-meters on a monthly basis. So Whatever I make directly saves me 12 cents up until production exceeds usage....then I get credit at their...

Last night I mounted the rest of the panels. Had to wait on some extra hands to get off work to assist. All 30 panels are mounted...but only 28 are hooked up. I had 2 panels that were actually from a different batch/pallet and the mc4 leads are super short. So I have extender cables on the way

So by the time I got all the inverters mounted and wired....I flipped the switch for those 4 panels at about 3:00. Then I started setting up the DTU to communicate. I was worried about it's range. But so far the DTU seems to communicate well....even at ~300' away and through an exterior wall...

Spent most of the day yesterday working on the wiring of the inverters. The premade trunk lines from hoymiles is good for inverter to inverter.....but can only run 3 inverters per trunk. (8a inverter output....10ga wire) So then it becomes a lengthy run back to the collector box. So I bought...

Test fitting 4 panels. This was Tuesday this week. Needed to see how/where I am gonna mount the inverters.....to see what if any extended cables I need to connect the panels. Good news is that none were needed.

Auger extension and racking delivery

Finally got everything done with solar....so time to dump some pics. Site prep was challenging.... hillside.... The racking is Sinclair sky-rack 2.0 seasonal adjust. They spec'd a 7' deep hole 24" in diameter. Had to make an auger extension for that. Panels are Canadian solar 540w bifacial...

No, the rural coop's of this country that arent bound by public utilities and invester owned companies do NOT have to offer net metering. Varies by states of course... But the answer is my rural coop "only has to pay" absolutely nothing at all if they dont want to.

Continued.....didnt want a single long post.... So far I have everything ordered and expect panel delivery today. Details of the system.... 30 canadian solar Bifacial 540w panels 7 Hoymiles 4-into-1 inverters 1 Hoymiles 2-into-1 inverter Those trunk lines will feed into a 100a outdoor main lug...

OP here I dont know where I left off in this thread without going back and re-reading. But after about 2 months of getting information from my rural coop.....which was like trying to herd cats....I am moving forward with a solar install. The details of my net-metering...... Currently a...

The problem with a blanket "go ahead and overproduce" is that you have to run calculations and see if it is worth it. When sizing a system.....it can be simplified down to a total system cost per watt. Currently I pay ~12.5 cents per kwh. So any and all production up until that point....I am...

Even that pic I think is only 4 panels. Some of the 400-500w panels I have seen are split panels that do actually look like 2

The install manual only shows 4 panel array. Don't think there is anyway to make the larger 400-500w panels work and cram 8 on there

Excellent question. I did call my insurance agent....and I have Erie insurance. I didnt inquire about a roof mount, but a ground array would be covered under "dwelling extension/other structures" and subject to the limit written in the policy With Erie thats 20% of whatever the home is valued...

BAsically same thing I have done over the last 10 years. About once every 2-3 years I get a renewed interest in solar, start crunching numbers, communicating with electric company, and pricing materials. Never could pencil out to better than a ~20yr payback. Equipment getting cheaper, panels...

What are those mounts/racking Right now thats what I am analyzing. I am leaning toward eg4 brightmount https://eg4electronics.com/categories/ground-mounts/eg4-brightmount-solar-panel-ground-mount-rack/ They seem pretty cheap (affordabe) way to mount 4 panels at a time. I just gotta do...

Thank you. You beat me to it. I though it was just me being cranky as I get older.....but I guess it wasnt just me. Must be some huge secret to his system, size, usage, production, etc??? Either that....or as an engineer he is totally clueless about any of it. Which is the direction I am...

I dont care that you leased or with that company. I am doing neither. And yes....your system size, actual production, and location would be extremely helpful. Because that is real-world data and not a MFG's claim. And simply put...that is the question that I have asked, and the purpose of this...

It would have benefited you to read beyond the first 15-20 posts. Because monthly is EXACTLY how my power company does it. But that's irrelevant. I was seeking information about system sizes....vs actual production. Which you provide neither. Only a recommendation to call my power...

While I dont have a heat pump water heater.....I have a pretty efficient setup with a buffer tank and the desuperheater on the geo thermal. My buffer tank usually runs somewhere between 90-110 degrees. So when I actually do consume hot water.....my regular water heater dont have to go from...

Cant really do that. Honestly, I dont understand why people make these statements..... I use what I use. No more and no less. Are there people who use less kwh than me...sure. Are there people that use more....sure. But what do I cut? Lay in bed at night and not watch TV? Dont cook as much...

Its all in post #29. The two routes I am considering. There seems to be many options for panels at ~$0.30 per watt

The EG4 mount is only adjustable from 25,30,35. And using PVwatts calculator....it actually shows 25 is the best for the april-august then sept through march shows 35. I would have though 30 would have been better for awhile...in september and maybe march. But their calculator doesnt show that...

I did factor the cost of the panels. I gave the prices I could find for both the 545w bifacials and 400w bifacials. I plan on installing myself

Still in research mode at the moment looking at the various options for inverters, mounts, and panels. I think I am leaning towards the hoymiles HMS2000 inverters. They are a 4-into-1 but still have individual panel optimization....and a fraction of the cost of a complete enphase system. And...

Yes It recently changed for the better. Who knows if it will change again. I can't make a decision based on speculation about what may or may not happen in the future

Oversizing dont help me. It actually hurts the ROI because even going over a 10kw system...there isnt much dropping in price in terms of cost per kw Its all my rural coop electric company. Basically as long as I dont produce more than I use in a given month, every kwh I can make will save me...

Good info. I think 10kw is what I am gonna need and based on your data....the PVwatts calculator and numbers I showed seem pretty realistic expectations

The "install as much as I can" will extend the payback. According to PVwatts estimate for generation.....a 10kw system will exceed what I use in my home 6 months out of the year but fall well short for the other 6 months. I did a quick spreadsheet as if I had a 10kw system...

What is your system size? And what latitude? Looking at your spring/fall months....I would like to make right about double that. I need to do some research on racking. I definitely want to optimize the angle....maybe once every month or two. Playing with the pvwatts calculator it seems to...

What does your 10kw system produce through out the year? What's January production? May? And maybe July to give me an idea What latitude?

Did lots of research today. Lots of options. Enphase micros seem about the best....but there are other micro inverters too. Some do two panels per. Looking at kits....but don't know if the "kits" are more expensive for convenience or cheaper because it's a package. I have seen panels asl low...

Since I dont have solar and dont know anyone with my coop that has solar....all I can go off of is what they have told me. So can I be 100% sure its trued up monthly....no. But I can be 100% sure that they told me it is trued up monthly.

I have used that calculator....but still lots of variables....like premium, thin film, or standard modules. And system losses? How do I estimate? No roof or roof angle to be concerned with. Not going on roof. Also no permits/zoning or labor/installer if I ever decide to add a few panels as this...

Long story short....My local coop/electric company have made some favorable changes to their residential net metering policies that now has me re-evaluating going solar. Basically I currently pay $51 as "meter" charge. Thats simply the pleasure of being hooked to their grid. Beyond that, I pay...

Sounds like someone that has never used one. Even just mowing in a straight line....their comfort and cut quality is superior. And they can mow at a faster ground speed and still get a good cut quality. Even on a wide open yard....a commercial grade ZTR will cut your mowing time in half vs a...

Not really a good answer to that especially not knowing where you live. But if you plow and disc and have a nice loose seedbed....broadcast spreader and cultipacker works well. Then pray for some rain to keep it moist because 30 acres would be alot to try and cover with straw. But hopefully not...

If you are unsure and dont mind a little mess....raise it up, put some oil in it....leave fill cap off, lower trailer. If oil pukes out....raise it back up and put cap back on. You just puked out enough oil that now its at its fullest point.

Just looked up those codes. One is plugged filter and the other is charge pressure low. It wont allow pilot controls to work with low charge pressure. ITs protecting itself. You say you pulled hydraulic filter and everything looked clean....sorry but you cannot see inside a hydraulic filter...

Sounds like a safety issue. Not specifically familiar with the 430, but the blade and swing boom are usually mechanical valves. Meaning they will work regardless of weather safetys are met. Seatbelt, seat switch if it has it? Or just the armrest lever thing on the entrance side. The safeties...

Yea, need to know the pressure before you go throwing parts at it or making adjustments to anything. Does the tractor have a loader? If so, do those hydraulics seem weak? When lifting from the tail and getting the 3PH to raise the bushhog, does it stay raised or does it bleed back off? Does the...

I know some of this post is older. But it gets confusing with the lingo of extend side and retract side of the cylinder. Because you are also extending and retracting the mower and they are inverse. Extending the cylinder retracts the mower and retracting the cylinder extends the mower...

Plow then disc. Your tractor should handle a 4-16 plow. It will take a couple days to plow it all under. Then disc it. A finish disc with 7" disc spacing will leave a nicer finish than one with 9" disc spacing. You tractor should handle a 14-15' disc pretty easy. And disc at a pretty good...

Guess I am confused by his description. I though he got it started but is back to just clicking (IE not turning over)

Neither of those would cause a starter to not spin the motor over and just click. Problem is definitely electrical there

While I have all forms of weight.....fluid in the tires, wheel weights, and heavy implements. Ballast/counterweight is based on needs. Ballast in the tires alone is not enough for doing alot of loader work. Tire ballast/wheel weights are also not enough for loader work. Both are great for...

Check all your electrical connections, especially around the starter and battery

Good brand medium duty used off of craigslist or marketplace would be my choice over a farm store light duty

Curious of any follow up? Was the local shop able to straighten the rods?

Sounds like maybe something hooked up wrong. Dont know if they use a regen valve or not.....but hooking up lift-lower to the curl circuit....if its a regen only valve for dumping....the loader wouldnt lower at all...both functions would try and raise the loader. But all the swapping and...

????????

I wasnt really asking a question. I was making a statement. Fact is, we can all argue the weights but we really have no clue. The skids are only ~10,600 ea....so 21,200 for the pair And that skid weight is WITH a 78" bucket. I see no buckets. I see attachments but cant tell what they are. But...

I still dont understand why you are claiming its overloaded when it isnt. Capacity of trailer is GVWR - trailer weight + tongue weight. Two 11k machines.....maybe total trailer is in the 35k ballpark.....but the load placement I'd say has AT LEAST 5k on the hitch. So thats 100% legal and not...

A full barrel ~60gal capacity filled to the brim would be about 1200#

I dont think it would be safe to go to 24,000 fpm blade speed. The FASTEST blade speed you see any MFG use for a rotary is only around 17k. Which is a 2:1 box on a 5' cutter. What did you use? Whats current blade speed? And why isnt it cutting? Sorry I am unfamiliar with that grass, but steel...

First question is what is the tractor? 32HP at the PTO is enough. Just have to go slower. Too many people on this site think that if you cant maintain 5mph that the cutter is too big. I'd rather cut with a bigger cutter and slower speed but at the same acre/hr rate. Bigger cutter and slower...

I assume he is talking about relief pressure of the hydraulics

I wouldnt go 1/4" anything unless it was a sub-compact. Dont care what flavor of steel. Just too light

Dont know what truck he has or where he is measuring, but its not uncommon up here to put a flatbed on a dually and the flatbed is 8'6" from rub rail to rub rail. Basically about 3" wider on each side than the tires. My flatbed is that wide as well. And a 7' garage door is REAL freaking close...

Look up how to test the cylinders. You can test them for bypass and see if thats the issue before you spend any money. As far as buying vs rebuilding.....most loader cylinders are made to fit. They arent an off the shelf common part like a logsplitter cylinder would be. And they arent easy to...

Design is more important than material choice IMO. The push to use AR steel or any higher strength steel isnt to make a stronger grapple. Its to make an equal strengh grapple weight less, but comes at a cost, Some MFG's gusset the tines, some dont. A 6-8" long tine without gussets will bend...

Mechanically, just about all the commercial grade mowers are pretty similar. Mower manufactures dont make engines, they dont make pumps, and they dont make wheel motors. They are off the shelf parts from companies like parker, eaton, or hydro gear. And it dont matter if its a scag, toro...

Given the height restriction, as well as the cost of a clearspan and concreted second floor (which sounds astronomically expensive) just to have 3000 sq ft of space with an 8' ceiling.....why not just build a single level? 40x72, 40x80, 48x64, etc. Have half be your shop and half be for whatever...

I kinda figured. That didnt look like a skid mower cut, and not as efficient. There are a few people around me that use a skid. I refer them alot of work thats just too much for me to want to subject a tractor to. And likewise, they refer me some of the larger open fields of just weeds/grasses...

You mow that one with a skidloader? How long does that one take if you do use the skid?

Nah, I think this one is done. What was needed said is said. People can read and make their own informed opinions. But facts are there for all to read

They didn't "make" solar a 20 yr payback. Solar was already that or more. Til govt forced them to subsidize residential solar . That cost was passed onto all non solar customers. So non solar customers paid a lot more, solar customers were way over compensated. They just balancing the playing...

No, you stated your incorrect opinion twice. Sure, you are correct if everything is static, and the loader doesnt try and lift anything at all. Tractor just sitting there and you add weight to the rear tires.....sure....no weight gets added to the front axle. Now, get in the real world of...

BINGO

And most people DONT try and lift max weight intentionally. But it happens way more often than most think about. Say you have a light implement on the back....landscape rake, land plane, post hole digger, etc. And you go scoop into that pile of dirt or stone to try and snag a bucket load...

The pin is loosened to allow the half that is threaded to spin. The pin is re-installed. It does TWO things. First....yes it keeps it from spinning and changing the adjustment. But second....that is also how it is attached. Without that pin installed, the two halves of the stabilizer can simply...

Thats nice. How much you reckon it weighs? Are them R4's loaded?

No, I am not wrong. I am 100% correct in everything I said with exception to perhaps the exact weights. But the concept is accurate. There is no need for a pi$$ing match here. FACT: A bare tractor with NO ballast cannot come anywhere close to lifting the full rated load capacity of the loader...

Surprised your dealer cant tell you if they are the same. Looks like alot of the part numbers are the same

I do find that odd, since cat 2 specs are 32" for lowers. So its strange that 32" is at its max for narrowness. Couple of options.... 1. contact your dealer. Looks like some of those tractors had the more traditional pin-type stabilizer. See what the working range is on those and if you could...

Aparently no body reads the posts before replying. Everyone keeps repeating about not an equal amount of threads showing. It was addressed in post 11. Only ONE side of that type of stabilizer is even threaded.

Its NOT neutral when you factor the use of the front end loader. Ill give some examples with some round numbers and easy to follow Tractor.....MX6000....With loader and cab......lets call it a 6000# machine The matching loader is "capable" of lifting 2000#. However.....in its bare...

Actually loading the rear tires can increase the load the front axle sees

A landplane dragging a piece of fence sounds like what you are envisioning

The cab and tire ballast is NOT enough. Sure, it "might" be enough to keep the rear tires on the ground, but all you are doing is adding to the potential weight that the front axle and tires carry when you have a heavy load up front. But I think 1400-1800 or anything in between is gonna work...

Parts are expensive for all of them. I wouldnt say one is more than the next. I have a bobcat, I see no reason to avoid. Do you use facebook marketplace? I see them come and go everyday. I am always browsing but usually looking at the 35-50 class machines. But lately the market seems flooded...

Not much real world difference between the different brands of the same class. Paper specs are just paper specs. If a u17 cant or wont do something....a deere 17g, cat 301.7 or TB216 wont do it either. There are fan-boys of every manufacture....those that are color blind and say one is better...

ITs easy to test the couplers. Take the two that go to lift/lower and put them on curl. Take the two that are for curl and put them on lift/lower. Now see if curl works (but using lift/lower movement of the joystick) IF it does....that tells you the curl hoses and loader half of the quick...

First note....when it comes to mini-excavators they typically follow a "class" 17....1.7 metric tons. Approx 3800 lbs 26/27 class....2.7 metric tons Approx 6000 lbs 35 class.....3.5 metric tons Approx 7000lbs 50 class....5.0 metric tons....Approx 11000lbs Get the trend. Now look at some specs...

Have you considered an attachment for the rear. Like a box blade or a land plane?

You must have done that last night then? Because thats exactly what my first thought was this morning when I got up and saw that email. First thing I did was hop on here and checked my PM inbox and saw nothing. Thats when I posted this thread

I got an email wanting me to link their website or products. Email looks like it originated from TBN

4 / 25.4 = 0.1575" A hair bigger than 5/32" but now your talking hex-keys most likely if you are working with stuff that small. And with hex heys....about the only ones I will interchange are 8 and 5/16. Cause aint much worse than a rounded out hex-key or bolt

Yup, Id follow JD recommendations. I would definitely load the tires cause I doubt you bought a tractor that size to keep it light for "yard" work. Loading will help with traction and stability whether you have loader on of off. As far as the hitch....you can reduce that weigh if you have a...

Its a stretch to use those two interchangeably. On something that isnt super tight or rusted....sometimes I grab a 13mm if I see that wrench/socket before I see the half. Half is a TIGHT fit on some 13mm stuff and a good choice if your worried about rounding. But those two really "shouldnt" be...

Then hobby income shouldn't be taxed....plain and simple. If it's such a small amount in relation to the deductions..... Irs wants their cake and eat it too. Shouldn't work that way. If I spend $10000 on what they deem a hobby....and sell a few hundred bucks of stuff to continue supporting...

Its just to lower the deck. Allthough crossmembers arent over the tires so that thickness is negligable. 1/4" plate versus 1-1/2" lumber. Can lower the deck 1-1/4" and still maintain tire clearance. Same concept of "pierced" beam deckovers. Rather than the crossmembers being ON TOP of the...

That kinda seems like a load of crap. IRS: Your business is no longer profitable.....so please stop taking all the deductions for your hobby....but we still want to tax you on the income. That way, not only do you loose money all year....then you loose even more money when you pay us. Perhaps...

So if the you or the IRS declares it a hobby that looses money......what to do with the 1099? Kinda a catch 22. You get a 1099 and they want you to claim income....yet show that it looses money. Seems they only want you to claim it if it's profitable so they can cash in and not the other way...

Hence my confusion. A contractor renting an orchard and harvesting apples is paying the property owner....to pull stumps and clean up their own property?

I am no tax professional. But I question why the contractor is giving you a 1099? 1099's are for services in excess of $600. Not for goods or materials. If he is buying apples off of you, why is he issuing a 1099? If he spends more than $600 in fuel for his equipment to harvest and transport...

Not sure of that particular seal and material. Yes some seals need warmed in either hot oil or water to make them more pliable. But the repair is pretty straight forward. Keep tractor handy. Yes loosen gland nut (assuming its threaded) as step one before removing anything else. If you cant get...

Short answer is that there is no "set rule" for profitability. People often cite "3 outta 5 years".....or 4 outta 7, or once every three. I have heard alot....but its not black and white. You can actually show a loss for 7 years straight if you want and not even be a blip on the IRS radar. The...

Yea, I am guessing you twisted the timing rod/tube and nothing at all wrong with the actual cylinders Got any pics?

Need pics and more detail. The loose pole could indeed be the problem, because I believe the pole on the starter is used to basically distribute power to the rest of the tractor. IE: the starter pole is used as as the common distribution point instead of the battery terminal. So wiring issues...

Did I miss you say how big the mccormick is? How big is the bigger case that handled it fine? Tractor weight is the factor for safely handling a load. 400bu wagon loaded is probably in the 25000# range. We arent in real hilly area, but usually see farmers not exceed 3x. So for a 25000#...

The cross bar is flimsy because all it needs to do is keep the latches "timed" with one another when there is nothing attached. So you can hook up implements. If the two sides were NOT connected....due to internal drag on the cylinders never being perfectly matched, they would NEVER line up...

IT WAS caught under the cylinder barrel. Thats what prevented that side from retracting and forcing the other side to

Am I seeing a different video? It was only 16 seconds long and showed how to fix the problem?

Unlikely to bend a cylinder rod in tension

I'd definitaly plan on stacking the blocks on the concrete. They will stack nicer and wont settle or lean. While those blocks are big and heavy, they have a large footprint. 2x2x6 blocks that weigh almost 2-ton but have 12 sq ft of footprint. 4" of concrete is more than enough, especially if...

1-1/4" line sounds about right for a 450' run. And given good pressure/flow at frost free hydrant confirms that. My first concern is 3/4" then feeding the WHOLE house from that point on. But even that alone shouldnt cause any issues IF no one else is using water at the time you are trying to...

x3 whats the problem. People here are probably gonna be more useful than the manual anyway

Thats what I would have concluded as well....except two reasons. First, this is a tractor forum and in the context, we are discussing tandem axle trailers hauling tractors around. And second.....he said "Of couse on smaller trailers the tongue will be lighter" Sorry, it dont get much lighter...

I really hope to god that people towing tractors on this page....are doing so with ALOT more than 75-110lb of tongue weight. You are wrong by about a factor of 10x

Never had a tongue weight issue. You absolutly do NOT want negative or too little tongue weight. 10-15% is about right. And just about any trailer made today....even though you think is too much tongue weight....can be loaded just fine if the trailer is sized appropriately as well as the truck...

Different tasks. I have a mini excavator, so Im usually just moving loose material and grading. Spreading stone and back dragging. Teeth are not required, and even a hinderance on some of those tasks. On occasion when I do need to "dig" with the loader, I have never had any issues....but a...

It seems to be a middle ground amount. Just about every lawyer I have spoken with said its too small and they dont handle anything under 6-figures But its also a large enough amount to want a resolution. The amount of the mitigation bill is $19k. And "if" this was a covered loss, we would be...

I cannot find anything legally stating what you say. Even though it makes sense. So far I have not had any luck getting anywhere

I am battling a claim being denied by my insurance right now and am frustrated to say the least. This is not at my place, rather at a 3-unit apartment I own. Back in December I had a tenant call be because of an unusually high electric bill and it was discovered that the T&P valve on the water...

Were these pallet forks a SSQA type or bucket clamp on type?

Closed center hydraulics and power beyond are incompatible terms. Power beyond is what is needed on an open center system. Close center hydraulics use a variable displacement pump. IE: constant pressure, variable flow. So there would be no heat concerns using a remote and mechanically holding...

I dont follow that math? 100w bulb running for 24 hours is 2400w/h or 2.4kwh 2.4 x $0.32 dont equal $7.68 So what am I missing here? You have the decimal place a notch off

What is your average monthly usage? ANd how many kwh/month is the system supposed to produce? Hopefully you have been in contact with your power company and not just trusting the solar installer/sales pitch with regards to having a $0 bill. I am curious for future feedback in the months to...

Im talking about steel shingles, not whatever you referenced

IT will. Geometry. Go pick any implement in your stable that uses all 3 points on the 3PH. Hook it to the tractor, and lower it all the way. Take a measurement from the toplink to a point on the lower arm. Now raise it and measure between the EXACT same two points again and you will see that...

IT will because it prevents the rotation of the lower arm and trailer mover in relation to one another

Torque definitaly an issue with just a direct drive motor setup. It CAN be made to work with many of the ideas mentioned here.....but whats the budget for this project?

Gonna be helping a friend of mine put a new roof on his house. My house will get a new roof at some point as well so the question becomes....when going from shingles to metal, what is the BEST way to do it. Cause it seems there is a handful of different ways, and just like building a pole...