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Grapefruit juice waved over the glass makes a great thirst quencher. Boylan Heritage tonic is great if you can find it.

My word of caution is in regards of whether or not you would be better served by a model with an outdoor ambient temp sensor or not. Ecobee, didn't work for me for that reason. The weather station they used could read 10-15 degrees different than our outdoor temp. So it liked to use the...

It seems there are lots of tired starter motors on these OPTW. I've not used aftermarket motors, so I don't know how you will do. But I'd wait and see what that does and if it doesn't perform see what voltage you get at the starter as you try and crank it. I used to see getting them running for...

We technically have 2 EGO trimmers. One that I put a pole saw on as well, one that's strictly a trimmer. Has an odd bend in it. A tree and a tractor were somehow involved in that, but won't fess up. Had to replace the pole saw attachment for the same. Darn tractor....

Here's what you do Bronco. Get your self one of those lanyards for a jet ski and wire it into the seat switch. Clip it to your pants. I have a yard that's much the same but there ain't no way I'm tumbling down the hill w/ a running mower deck. It just might just save you.

Unplug the connector at the top of the clutch and see if it blows then.

It is so the paper media isn't perforated. I blow across the media rather than directly through. For OPE, some manufacture's are for blowing them out, some don't.

There's a lot here that doesn't really apply to this engine. Compression is questionable which could very well be the gauge itself. One more than one occasion, I've found myself wanting to go down the rabbit hole. Checking valve lift, lash etc. and came up with a failed intake gasket where the...

Why aren't we greasing these? These spindles rarely have bearing failures -in my world anyways. It sounds like an inspection is in order from here.

Well, when you're all done- you'll be a pro at this. :)

I'd even buy you a beer, root or otherwise if you experiment and get great results. My thoughts are that it would chip and the end would follow, but I've not seen anyone try that. Worth a try I'd guess. Basic enamels don't work. Powder coat , not meant to. The most ingenious thing a saw was a...

Well, the crank circuit runs through the PTO and brake switches via the purple wires. Those are what I see the connectors fail on the PTO switch. The B terminal on the key switch as well. That isn't to say that other terminals can't be affected which affect the PTO operation. Deere just uses...

It's I think a good thing to do for long term care anyways. When you have the deck cleaned and ready for storage is when I do it. Helps with sticking?

I'm asked all the time how to keep the deck clean underneath. Most of these folks are intimidated by removing the deck and don't have a lift. Some the best they can do is scrape out through the chute when they deal with nice, healthy May grass. Even that keeps the deck cleaner as it helps the...

Very true indeed!

You seem to be saying that your engine will crank if you manipulate the connector? Or ...

Welcome to TBN!

Replace the two connectors on the purple wires. They fatigue quite often on these. This is the style terminal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8X35QU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_9

Unfortunately, nothing is close to permanent. There are products such as MoDeck for that purpose. I've seen those who wax the underside of a new deck to the guy who used bedliner. I've personally tried grease paint on a brand new and prepped deck. The dirt fines picked up by the blades are an...

I mean, you're probably right. The design of the sector itself doesn't seem to vary much. Me, if I have a steering issue with one- it just gets replaced. When you can't find one, there isn't much else one can do. Compare the IPLs from your old one?

It is worth running it with a hunk of 1/4 " fuel line from the filter dropped into a fuel can to confirm there isn't a delivery issue with the tank etc.

Just think of the excitement for your first 100$ blade set! Which will be soon as they are thin. I know you've had Deere before and maybe thought about the price of green paint. B&D has the parts gimmick down.

You'll get a lot of I use this oil or that, or that's fine. I have no clue if someone understands that air cooled engine oil is recommended then why isn't it on the shopping list. I have barrels of air cooled synthetic oil myself. Kohler has some extended change kits which feature Amsoil...

Use something w 50 oil? Try running the purge procedure. Should be easy to find, but basically get the drive off the ground and start operation in bypass mode for about 10 cycles. Then the same out of the bypass mode.

I think you'll be OK. This is one of this things you just have to be there to know. Might need the battery box out.

It would seem more like the anti backfire solenoid below the carb had failed, or the fuel incombustible. The solenoid should have voltage and ground when cranking and in run position. Welcome.

In addition you need there to be battery voltage at the regulator. They are not switched and wired hot. So you depend on the regulator to shut down and you'll have no draw if that part of the regulator is working. Be sure the battery is good to start with. A good battery is capable enough to run...

I guess that you are still in plenty of time to get the mower a going if you are dealing w/ snow! It sounds like you must have the battery grounded through the frame which the engine is grounded as well. If you find an easy ground point fine, otherwise a good frame ground is all that is required.

I would start my diagnosing at the solenoid. You should have a 4 post solenoid. The two terminals which are smaller, one will need to trigger the solenoid when the key is turned and the other a ground. Of course, do the things you need to do to confirm the battery condition. If there is no point...

Does this sound what you did? Snug- .003" Intake (lower valve), .005" Exhaust. Set when the piston is 1/4" past top dead center after the Intake valve closes. Use a dowel, pen through the spark plug hole to check the position of the piston.

The chattering makes it sound like the splines on the inside of the driven pulley are spun. Typically the splines on the shaft are intact. So off with the pulley and have a look. Below the pulley is a round, flattish coated plug. That is the fill port. If you pry the plug out, remove the magnet...

Yeah, no- you probably don't want to tie into a high pressure fuel line.

Beyond servicing that carb, adding and using an inline fuel valve would be extra insurance.

First off, can you get a hose down the filler neck of your truck and back out? There just might be a better option out there.

If it's worth a 50 to you, you can wrap it with the Honda rodent tape.

My old MS250 became a better performer with a little muffler surgery. It's old enough to where it has an adjustable carb, though I modified the muffler long enough ago that I don't remember if I had to adjust the carb or not. I use Oregon chain and an Oregon grinder. I'd have to look what chains...

People have said for decades that JD knows what that green paint is worth when referring to parts $$. In what I do which is consumer OPE, while that can be true in some cases- the costly ones for parts are cheap ones you buy. I'm looking at you B@D AKA MTD. I always thought back in the day...

Part supply chain and availability could be a whole other thread. I'm seeing more common Briggs parts leaving the chat and becoming NLA. Hunting for HOP parts is an interesting past time. During the plague, our friendly JD dealer had some backorders, but for them Stihl was problematic. I'm...

Fully agree. We were Toro. 1983 made a big difference in walk behind mowers with the blade stop mandate. The old Briggs and Tecumsehs started to pale in comparison to the Suzuki's adopted by Toro. Briggs Europa started to make the transition for them. Kawasaki engines made a more common...

Is Gardiner the Kohler distributor by you? If so, how are their other parts availability?

Pics and everything. Welcome to TBN.

It would take some engineering. My first thought would require modification of the fender deck. But, the pedals easily remove and levers could be fashioned that bolt on. If you went through the existing holes on the fender deck, I'd think the brake pedal would also need modification.

A touch of anything I think is a good idea. Moly is used on splined driveshafts so that's why I brought that up. I don't think lube is even referenced in the service manuals. Interesting that Deere used it on initial assembly. Most don't seem to. TT ships them dry on the K46's I've gotten. The...

Is the misses going to be mad you used her toothbrush? Wow! nice and clean. If you have moly, use it. Most times they have nothing, but I agree it is a good idea.

I converted a bagger frame for a person to hold their sprayer. Worked pretty well if you have one.

That's the official fill plug. It will just pop out with a sharp chisel. Underneath may be a magnet that when lifted out could point to the overall health of your T/A. This would be a great time to change the fluid. Tuff Torq has an updated fluid recommendation. I use 15W50 synthetic, dunno if...

I've always just used a drill.

If it wasn't worth anymore $$ or time, remove the stator and magnets- maintain with a charger. If, for some reason you do decide to fix this- see if the ignition system replacement kit includes the flywheel. Kohler used several different ignition systems. When ASAM ignition went away, you could...

The little hour glass shows for ~ 2 hours of use, then does away. I do know that there have been display issues, though haven't heard about the hours themselves not changing. Welcome to TBN.

I was thinking about this post as I'm whipping up my new jar of peanut butter this noon. I mean, I get useful information from TBN like many do- but the peanut butter stirrer is right up there at the top! A little bit of cinnamon, a touch of cayenne....

Well, I do know that just having a young driver without their own car in your household raises the car insurance exponentially. So whomever signs on should ask about that up front.

Welcome to the group.

You lucky dog! Quite frankly when I get one, I offer a new engine $ along with an I won't know until it is apart and cleaned. At least one in four have other damage. At least in my experience.

Do remember way back when that fiasco started, that they (OEP if I'm correct) included spindle assemblies with the blades for a spell? That was strange page in the OPE history book... OEP redesigns, I liked the older, more robust ones better. One thing that I can hand to MTD, is the low profile...

Fuel stabilizers do help and there is also truth to statement that non ethanol fuel stores better. The very best thing to be done is what you are doing. The most sure fire way to keep the fuel from oxidizing and deteriorating in the carburetor is to replace it. By running the engine, you are...

To me, these blades seem thin. And expensive. And they can take 20 minutes or better to change with the deck off already. I just hate engineering to make things more difficult and more expensive to get inferior parts. They make a nice, heavy standard circle hole blade on 3 series models. There...

You have a nice enough rider, but I've grown to truly loath the fast attach blade system. Granted, it may have been blades that haven't been off in 2-3 years and the mechanism is packed with dirt and grass. Best advice for you going forward, take steps to protect retainer so it moves when you...

I had bought a couple of aftermarket Deere hoods, they weren't Caltric, but another brand. Neither had any install issues at all. My experience w/ Caltric, though limited has been good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/195542521005?_skw=z+track+757+manual&itmmeta=01JEVK9AZRXQJCWPJVHAENPFH5&hash=item2d873e14ad:g:i9MAAOSwXgJjsy0o&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnfw6xXloHrHQmSh4neMtEWyc90oG%2FbCcKTwbE9qETEnEegsWKiSE6ivg%2Bcti688jZEBMwuH8z4ILK%2BO9YBfCrVLPP0GeBAT5kue79g%2FTUmX3...

Ubiquiti access point in the house, one in the shop via cable and one outside to cover the front.

Good post. Definitely that argument will persist as oil discussions always seem to bring comments aplenty. My thought on a GL5 bottle that calls out safe for brass, is information- though not necessarily correct information. Should the info be incorrect, what's the remedy? Your 10.99$ back?

Thought I'd join the crowd. When doing PM, my CCA was down to 275. Used a Napa 7534R. Like a glove. Now changing the fuel filter didn't go as well....

I was concerned about the cast iron, but no problems in the couple of years we have had our GE induction. What we do is, you can turn the burner to max, then click it down 2-3 notches. Stainless works well too if it is magnetic. Strangely, my wife has a set of Amway Queen - like who knows- 30-40...

By spill proof, did you get an AGM?

We've had those in the past as well. They are nice.

The Lazyboy store itself just about gassed her out. Thanks for the thoughts.

A while back there was a good thread on recliners. My wife absolutely needs a new chair, hopefully recliner. BUT, it can't be smelly / toxic. She read about Green Guard products, so we head to town and stopped at a Lazy Boy store and they had no clue. I remember the thread about people...

What I've found to be the main culprit on many with belt problems is wear in the tensioner arm @ the pivot. The OPs unit could be an earlier build that had old tensioner and guide set up. The ones with the tensioner handle have the guide set up both on the tension arm and behind the large flat...

You didn't say what belt. Traction belt? Deck belt? 42" decks have had several issues, but it depends on which build you have.

That's your starter relay connector. Yours id old enough that it isn't in the box.

Even if you just have a propane torch, heat the bottom and get some penetrant in there too. If it becomes too much, cut it w/ a zip wheel while protecting those threads.

I have the M18 and work the dickens out of it. I'm at the age that I realize the more tools I get, the less time I have. Isn't that backwards?

Enjoy your new impact!

Best of luck. Keep us in the loop please.

So you can enter the your actual VIN in JDRC and in many cases it will give you the correct catalogue which is VIN specific. It will tell you if it can't. I use the EU Kaw site if I want Kaw part numbers.

It is quite common that you would drop a coil on one of these. Then, in fact you are running on 1 cylinder. They tend to run smooth, but seem anemic . One cylinder isn't igniting the fuel air mix and out it goes.

FWIW, on the larger FS models -occasionally a weak coil will make them have a bugger of a time on a cold start.

I have a few that I service that do real well. Seem to be well designed and easy to service.

The purple wire is your trigger wire. SO there would only be voltage there with the key in the starting position. Much of Deere troubleshooting for cranking is following the purple wire. Terminals can fail in this circuit at the PTO and key switches. There is also a start relay which could also...

What is doing the clicking? If it is the solenoid, check what you have for voltage when you turn the key at the purple wire while it is connected.

Myself, I do blame the equipment. I've talked to too many people that have their wiring harnesses eaten on their new cars that never had issues before. Some kept in an attached 2 car garage.It's not like it never used to happen- as it sure did. But nowhere to the degree it does with soylent...

If it feels ignition like, tear off the shielded spark plug terminal assembly and install a new non shielded one. These go flaky on the Powermors.

The tank removal is pretty quick and easy. There are 2 bolts (13MM heads) on each side that attach the seat platform to the lower body and you will see them underneath at the back of the foot pads. On top the two 10MM headed bolts. Undo the fuel cap and stretch a nitril glove over the outlet to...

If you wish, run it direct to the + battery lug. That takes the little bullet connector out of the equation. You could say the same about the ammeter if you still had an issue and run it direct to the B terminal on the key switch, which is where I am assuming it goes.

It sounds like it is time to remove the valve covers and give close look. Look that the rocker hardware is tight, that all four valves close, compare how much they open etc. Be sure that the flywheel is good and tight or you can shear the key.

One other thing that you want to do here, lock the brake and rock the rider back and forth. You're looking for the transaxle rocking and ensuring that both the rear brackets and front torque brackets for the transaxle are in place / bolts or brackets not broken. Your belt part number under the...

Replace the fuse holder and try try again....

I'd have no idea really. Somewhere I probably have a dried up jug of the Tecumseh stuff. It is thicker than a 00 grease if I recall. When it gets pushed around and water infiltration, it doesn't look very good does it? I've found with pricing old Peerless in Deere's this summer that the people...

https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-Equipment-Transmission-Original-Manufacturer/dp/B07KMN87FS

MTD just changed the prefixes when they re-cataloged. That change doesn't equal a part spec change. Have you tried their CAC for at least some goodwill assistance? All that aside, I've not opened one up but have similar ish types of things. If push comes to shove, hopefully one can figure it...

Bentonite is clay based ish. I assume that you have this apart and have issues? If not, leave it. If you do, then clean clean clean ever thing up and use a better lube. It is time consuming.

It's a meter that plugs into the fuse holder. It allows you to see real time AMP draw quite easily. Just makes life easier. You could test your harness from the clutch to the switch with an ohm meter to confirm if the diode is there that it is good and not shorted. It just legs from the + to the...

Your PTO clutch OHM reading is OK. How are the terminals in your holder and through the switch? I use one of those fuse buddy things, really convenient. Feel your harness from the PTO switch to the clutch for a diode and check that if it applies here.

The thing to do here is inspect closely the connections, especially pin connectors. Several I have come across several that the connectors themselves were not secure and pins that weren't locked when assembled. This includes body to engine, throttle body, at your safety switches and behind the...

Yes. The head gasket is the likely culprit and they will bleed from the pump vent some times. The gasket erodes away between the cylinder and the valve galley. They many times start out small, almost like you took the tip of a pencil and scraped a small path.

Any good pics of the belt drive from the top? From here, the location of your tension / adjuster pulley doesn't seem ideal to me. It is very close to both the spindle and drive pulley. Your only option this way is to stress the belt and draw it too deep into the vee. Do you also have a spring...

So the question is what is seizing I'd guess. It would be interesting to see a pic of your set up here.

Twins w/o a controller use a diode in the kill wire between the two coils. You'll see a lump in the harness.

When considering connections, the PTO switch, brake switch, key switch are in the crank circuit. Debris or a dirty switch can keep a brake switch from physically activating all the time. You'll need 12 VDC at the B terminal on the key switch and watch the wire that feeds it off the + solenoid...

A point or two to consider. The fuel solenoid should be switched on in crank and run. You never want power to the coils and would find a diode in the kill harness for the coils. Creative wiring previously done could have damaged the diode for the kill harness as well.

I've not ever seen a PTO clutch solenoid on a Craftsman tractor. What I have seen are damaged diodes on the PTO harness. They are not shown as a separate item on an IPL. You basically have the take the harness out of the loom from the switch to find it, or you can unsnap the connectors at the...

I'd say get underneath anyway and have a look. Rule out the external things first regarding the leak and the noise. 200 hours isn't much. If it comes down to changing it out, you'll see it could very well be a DIY project. Hydro Gear has a good tech support team for questions that you might have...

There was a guy on here with the same tractor I have that worked the living tar out of it. He put in Amsoil, so at the break in filter change I did a DNR with it. No complaints. Dunno if I would have with what came in it though either...

Is an EV a good purchase for someone who drives 3,500 miles per year on average? I had talked to an older couple a few years back and they brought up a point with hybrids that I didn't know. They had bought a Camry hybrid and if I remember correctly they had killed the battery in it as they...

Does it sound better than the coffee can full of loose parts when it cranks like the 3209810s? It seems the original replacement buys them a few years anyways.

Kohler has changed that starter about 4 times. If it is cranking slow, it likely needs the new starter.

The plugs look like they've been there a while. Appears to be burning well. This style steering is pretty stout, a good inspection is in order. Set your tire pressure. I'd look for looseness in the center of the axle or signs of trauma. The drag link ends could be loose but the center link is...

In the end you can raise the adjusters on the rear arms to the point that you have a 1/4" between the frame and the bracketry. Once you are level and high in the back, reset your pitch. You can try being 1/4 or 3/8" lower in the front. Recheck the side to side level and see what you have. If...

Breezing through here it looks like you rather take a stab at a fix here to hold the guide rather than go through the expense and trouble of pulling this apart. I did see where you brought up welding. All that is really necessary here is to create a raised spot so it won't pull through one way...

I don't really know the properties of corn head grease- other than it's consistency. Would something like a 00 grease be acceptable?

Usually. Hold down on the pulley so you don't round the square bolt and hole. Keeps the head firmly in the hole.

Welcome. Why not? Let us know how it works out. I wouldn't want my feet to have a tangle with one though...

Yes. L series are vented via a center hole. Welcome.

You'll want the choke control to start to move when the control begins to enter the choke position.

Yes, be diligent about checking the level in case this is a sign of something else. Keep the updates coming.

When you get this re assembled, verify that your choke control cable isn't travelling too far and putting stress on the choke shaft.

So when you replaced the key switch, did you install the whole modular switch or reload the switch with a new center? You mentioned interlock switch. What does this switch do? The brake and the reverse sensing switches are the same I believe. So in theory, if you replaced the brake switch as...

Did you activate the mow in reverse and did it make a difference?

Z930 M? A? R? I'm not sure if they actually have boxed kit for them, SCroll to the bottom of the page here with your model info. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/

Best advice is to take the model and spec number then contact someone like Small Engine Warehouse. Best? Kawasaki. Kohler is fine, but I don't find their replacement engine pricing based in reality. Kawasaki seem to know their worth as well. Briggs twins are more affordable and are fine...

What oil are you using and hours on the current oil?

Is there any difference when using the mow in reverse feature? Welcome to the group.

The Cub dealer family holds their secrets near. I've certainly replaced modules before, but not for this condition. I've had connector issues ,body to EFI and engine harness @ the throttle body. I don't remember if yours has the thin little starter relay, and for that matter if they show in...

You have too many things going on here. Your seat switch may have a shorting clip in the connector, so that you are aware of that. A brake switch will have 2 terminals that are normally open and 2 that are normally closed. Only the brake and PTO switch is in the crank circuit. The seat is a run...

The little node light testers aren't worth much. The light with about anything. Two barrel or single carb?

If this is every cold start, 9 out of 10- the control cable is misadjusted and the choke is not closing. This engine will also tend to do this after sitting a couple of months. Starting more frequently helps.

Only real light on the grease on those fittings. The tension is adjustable on the belt via the cable. They did last a long time, pretty much a Toro drive. I don't remember many LB model numbers, but if it isn't behind the handle panel, try a 10515.

Our Briggs and Stratton hoses last for years and years.

Pull back on the pedal, then push down on the lock knob on the dash.

Doe yours have a control panel o the handle? Behind that if so. THE TORO COMPANY

They were reasonably stout tractors, built by AYP > Husqvarna. They don't handle like butter, but for 600$ if it runs up good, steers decent and you aren't dealing with deck rot- I'd consider it.

Try also just jacking up 1 side. Then turn the other tire. Repeat the other side. You're verifying that both wheel keys are in. It can be possible with no load IE both wheels in the air, that the wheel rolls w/o the key in place.

Meaning did visibly was there a sign of burning on the belt sides, or other signs that the belt was damaged.

Did the old belt tell a story? You have the belt on the inside of the rear belt guide?

Doing some cleaning up projects where I'll be working near and across a smallish creek, in snags and brambles and such. A material that is more snag resistant maybe? TIA

Is it a plastic disc type switch? I've put extra padding above the disc to make it less sensitive but still works if you get tipped off the seat. I get having a bypass switch is helpful when you run the PTO off tractor, if it won't stay going with the brake set.

I don't have enough info to say that. I don't really think there are many around by me. Just what I pick up from the occasional call about wanting a different option than the local dealer, who people tend to like BTW. Aren't they like at least 20 years old? It always seems to be an intermittent...

Maybe it's that the local Kubota dealer doesn't care for them by me. I get a call every so often on these for service- intermittent this or that. I send them away.

They are unique. You would probably find the Kubota dealer is the only game in town for repairs. Maybe run it by them.

To test for a draw, remove the negative battery cable and set your meter to DCV and put the two ends between the battery and the ground. A fraction of a volt isn't abnormal in this basic test. If you have more, reassemble then run the machine and repeat.

Put your part numbers into a search. Stens Rotary or even Amazon. When someone has a HD machine, I really like to use the OEM. That said, I've gotten big aftermarket spindles for Husqvarna and Gravely that worked out well. Couldn't make it happen any other way.

I'm not really familiar with your unit, but have you pulled the starter to see if it stayed engaged at last run and is now stuck in the ring gear? Or possibly something external? Pulling for you here.

The LX280 is a nice tractor. X3 series is close enough in chassis toughness. Your LX has a nicer transaxle and larger tires than the base models. Do you have the 42" deck or the 48"? Honestly the new decks, the construction and the belt drive of the 48" is much better IMO.

You wouldn't want to use an adapter on a chipper shaft. What you could do is check that model and see if certain ones were built with the impeller that fits and use that. I dunno if that is worth your will on a small chipper. I've run into this before on motorized assist baggers.

Looking a tanker of Red n Tacky as we speak. ;) What's the chances anyone here has a rail car full?

I have Adblock + on both Edge and Chrome. Generally I'm happy with it. Been with me for years. Good old Youtube says they're gonna block me now though....

It's cold now by me right now. We have an insulated ish type hive and bees that were late arrivals, but stayed active. On some of the warmer days though, we've seen nothing. The wife says bad news will wait. We'll be watching, but half expect yellow jackets to be the first sign of activity.

I saw Stens had that big barrel on sale. I have carts and carts on backorder. I suppose you could fill grease guns and sell cups of grease at flea markets, farm shows and such...

So there are gear oil pumps that range from the size that will fit on a quart container on up. Mainly for installing new oil. It would be a bit tedious , but for a few quarts certainly doable.

I've got say that this is great accessory that you're getting. With my bar today, it made my driveway work go quite well. We had a hard week long freeze and then lots of rain. I'd never seen my drive get that bad. I didn't see any base in that section of drive-it must of gotten built up over...

Hmm, I don't have a manual. There were bulletins regarding some switch changes that don't apply to RCC's though. What is known: Both seat switch functions are shown as NC. The brake switch is the usual NO/NC. It didn't show a PTO relay in the schematic, but it won't be the first time that it is...

Welcome. Could post the product number from below the seat? I've not had that issue. The only issue that I've had with those switches were on the tractors and were for a no crank. Prior to this, if you set the brake- would it crank w/o being on the seat?

I've seen just about all in fuel lines. Personally, I use mostly the Briggs low permeable line. It doesn't rot, get brittle plus holds its shape for pumping etc. These diaphragm pumps are effective enough, but not overly strong to begin with. Maybe a 2' foot lift or so. Flimsy line can and does...

I might of done a head once, but never anything otherwise internal on these. Awesome, but getting old and I understand the need for caution here. Replacing the lines with the proper one and a $10 shut off valve is all I see here. Tygon belongs on saws. You need a fuel line that seals and...

So your issue isn't going to be improved with the fuel line that was used. For starters it is the wrong size. You noted that your fuel is drawn from the top of the tank. Anything that prevents a perfect seal will allow the line to drain back into the tank. Me, I would get a good braided 1/4"...

Captain Obvious here. The newer ones at least had 2 tags. Would it come up in your search history if you started to type it out?

Well, their original bolts on the edges of the bucket only. The rest of the bar is held securely by brackets that slide over your existing edge. Here's my version, albeit when it was first done. This was just a fun project for me. I guess the bolts above the edge wouldn't be a big deal. I just...

It's the first that I looked at the PRO version. I've used my edge quite a bit and there isn't damage to speak of. Mine is just mild steel. Bolted on across the bucket to me is a negative , but that's what makes it reversable.

FWIW I have a Piranha style bar on my bucket (homemade plasma project) . I can't think of a reason that I would have switched to a straight edge. What's the purpose of the reversable bar? Anyways, welcome to the group!

I read what I could of the bill. It doesn't really bother me that they want to encourage purchasing battery powered equipment with tax incentives. I repair OPE and there are certainly folks out there who are good candidates for battery equipment. We all know the EPA cans are a mess, but not...

Proposed Washington state bill HB 1168 . The EPA seems to think that OPE users spilled SEVENTEEN MILLION GALLONS. So pretty much a bill much like California has been proposed...

My thought is that it would be more like an idler pulley bearing. At least hopefully. To my knowledge, these transmissions are still serviceable, though a nasty clean up job goes with due to the Bentonite lube.

Good deal. By me, no. If they don't currently sell it, it doesn't seem to exist in their parts system. Actually both the Kubota and Deere dealers won't touch anything else. You will see an odd trade every so often though at least at the Deere dealer for sale.

These were nice tractors.

I've seen a clothespin tied to to piece of twine for said purpose....

That video reminded me of a rather parched yard that I saw ~ 10 years back when I went to a customer's house. I guess 2- FIVE GALLON gas cans worth of fuel were dumped down the mole holes in order to send them packing. A match was involved there too.

A guy told me he uses carbide pellets. When damp it produces acetylene gas I guess. He said it will kill them w/o lighting, but it isn't half as fun.

I didn't read through this. Years back I had a guy in facilities maintenance give me a pail of Drive up? It was specifically to clean drive throughs and approaches. Did real well.

On your starter you likely have what they call a piggyback solenoid. If that is the case, the solenoid is mounted on starter itself. Your + lead goes to the starter lug direct and then when the key is turned, a smaller trigger wire (right next to it) should have 12 volts when the key is turned...

George, I know that you are frustrated and this has been dragging on for you. Reposting multiple threads will get you nowhere. Myself and others have posted some things to check out, yet from here we don't know if you have followed these troubleshooting thoughts or not. That would be a good...

Interesting people's thoughts. I'll be watching how Progressive treats you. Back in my Progressive claim, I was towing a trailer at the time. They flat out said we don't deal with repairing trailers. Pick out one you like kind of thing and they paid me for it. The truck had some damage in the...

Welcome. Hopefully your guy comes through with it. For the Craftsman to work, it would obviously need to be the right version of the chassis. 247. is the start of MTD built Craftsman products BTW. I would maybe start by looking for what compares to the OEM # of the one you have.

John Deere builds everything from light duty 200 series models up through the knarly built 900 series that I know of. A more particular one or two catch your eye or a more specific ??

I had Progressive and was rear ended a few years back by another Progressive driver. Claims were paid w/o question. Their contact wasn't in a hurry to see me sign off for medical issues either. A good experience for me.

I would probably use some furnace or exhaust cement type thing. Lots of vibration there.

If the bore of the mounting hole is the same, and your deck doesn't have a special holder or stiffener - than they very likely would. I've put the wider blades on ZTR decks and they cleared fine.

Welcome. A good inspection is in order as Randy pointed out. You didn't say how many hours it has. Should also look for broken spindles or one of the blade spindles binding- so see that they turn freely. Tension is adjustable as well on these if I recall.

Are you able to turn the engine by hand?

I supposed that she named hers too?!

Good deal. I read the thread title and thought to myself, why did he take a machine that sized to the park and how on earth did he get it stuck! Glade it worked out!

You didn't say if this is a Kohler as well. But typically the anti- backfire solenoid blocks the fuel pipe that goes to the venturi. Because carburetor bowls also need another vent, your fuel likely flooded via the vent passage. Low speed circuits can draw from the bowl area as well.

The wife's new tool box!

My XJ allows either 32 or 46 viscosity hydro oil. It does sound like maybe they used 46 at the last service.

Sure . It's only here that I get these. It might be easiest to download MB as they are reputable. Here's what it shows in the log. They show as blocked as their website is compromised. billecox.com (from 10/16), read-download-books.com (from 10/18, 10/21,10/23) hrhkmstlb.puzztake.com (from...

Welcome. This happens when either the lock knob on the dash is up or if the rear arms of the deck are adjusted too high. The lock won't release if it is too high, it needs 1/4 -3/8 of an inch travel before it hits the frame.

For a few days now several of the ads show as coming from a compromised website. As an FYI.

You will see the switch for the drive pedals underneath the body near the pedals if'n you want to have a look. Cycle the PTO switch. Maybe you will luck out,

I wouldn't think so. Maybe a drive position switch. I can always start mine off the seat, but touch a drive pedal it dies because the seat is unoccupied. You didn't really say, but you've had this running after fuse replacement- correct? If I've ever had a no crank, it goes back to the PTO...

Reading what you have replaced, it wasn't clear if you had replaced the stump jumper. It obviously had gotten some good use. Worth a shot? Maybe in the nature of goodwill, they'd cut a deal seeing as though you've had a CAC open.

Beats me. I just use GL4 if it's called for. No one on here is gonna pay the bill for you if it doesn't work out.

"My symptoms now are: Engine will try and stall with the PTO switch in the ON position, with either (1) me getting off the seat, or (2) releasing the parking brake." Those aren't symptoms, that's the way it is supposed to be. It wasn't clear where you checked your voltage. Your clutch should...

You'll have to see that the trigger wire is being powered at the starter solenoid. If not, your brake switch is also in the crank circuit. A look at the terminals behind the switch could be in order as well.

They are quite dependable really. It won't need cleaning. Any pump issues you would replace the diaphragm. If you do take it apart, do so cautiously. Couple of little springs to lose.

Basically look for wear on the float valve whilst it is apart. The little holes in the body, kinda three in a row - the tiniest has to be cleaned. A wire from a brush is fine. The main is through the bowl nut. Just use whatever jet spray you have and it will be fine. 3 screw fuel pump or 4?

Too bad there is no resolution on this. Best of luck moving forward.

Good deal. You thinking a loose connection or rather a contact in the switch itself?

Let us know what you find out.