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No need to mess with the hoses at the loader control valve. All you need to do is use the quick connects. Here is the procedure. On a hard and flat surface, use the loader stands that are stored in the loader frame cross tube. Set the loader down on the stands. The bucket may have to be flat...

If you mean hydraulic lines, then probably. It totally depends on how the system is set up. Post some pictures of your setup and we can more accurately give advise.

Not sure what you mean by 'carpetable option' If it is imperial threads you should be able to buy just the end at a tractor or farm supply store. It may be more difficult if it is metric threads. However, most tractor or supply stores also sell just the ends that have a weldable stub on them...

Most alternators put out at least 14 volts. It has to be higher than the target voltage for the battery which is usually 12.5 to 13. I would first check to make sure the belt isn't slipping. Then probably go for a new regulator Do you have an ampmeter? Does it show that the battery is being...

I'm confused, see if I understand this properly. You put fluorescent dye (the kind that requires a UV light to "see") into the fuel tank and now you have fluorescence showing up in both the transmission AND the hydraulic sumps? What about inside the bell housing, any fluorescence there? Is...

Does your tractor share the sump for transmission and hydraulic fluid? My guess would be no, but I don't know your tractor. In any case, fluid in the bell housing has to be either engine oil, fuel or transmission fluid. These should be easy enough to tell apart. If you can't figure it out by...

Good info, thanks for the pics. It looks like the newer screen has an appropriate increase in surface area to compensate for the finer mesh. You will probably notice a need to go to a thinner fluid in really cold temps.

That could be just about anything. Some questions to get you started on the detective path. Does it happen in both 2WD and 4WD? Does it happen if you stand on the floorboards (not sitting in the seat)? How is your backhoe attached, 3 point or frame mount? Can you wiggle any of the backhoe parts...

Don, Thanks for following up with details and pictures. This is something I had no experience with so there was no advice to give. Now this post will be helpful to all of us that will face this task some day in the future. Well Done!

Check with Rolland at RanchHand Supply. He may be able to tell you if a different model engine will fit your tractor.

Yikes. I'm not familiar with that particular tractor or engine. My first instinct would be to drain the oil and look for metal in the pan and open up the oil filter and look there too. Then probably drop the pan and see what the lower end looks like inside. If you find the engine data tag you...

Not to be snarky, just trying to put things in perspective. How familiar are you with diesel engines? A lot of people that hear diesel engines for the first time think there is something wrong when it is actually just they way they work. One of the first things that comes to mind is the...

So the cover from the YD480 fits, but it is not tall enough? How much more height does it need? would it be possible to make a spacer to make up that difference? It wouldn't have to be exactly the same shape as the cover as long as it was big enough to utilize a gasket on the head and another...

Since I have no direct knowledge of this particular setup, I can only offer some speculation and observation. First, are the spools and bores absolutely polished looking with no score or wear marks? These close tolerance fits can't put up with much roughness, even if the sealing is done with...

Try Affordable Tractor or Circle G Tractor. Both are in the U.S. so shipping might be an issue for you.

Take a look at this parts page: https://www.circlegtractorparts.com/drive-gearbox-18-28hp-tractors There are two diagrams and the parts you need to know about are in the right hand diagram. Click on that and then hover over the image to see it zoomed in. Look for part call out #139 and the...

If your tractor starts without the wires connected, the circuit must be bypassed at some other location.

A slightly different angle

Here is a photo of my 2006 284. The switch is just behind the pipe that goes straight up. The clutch arm makes contact with the black button of the switch. You can see part of the bracket that is held onto the transmission with two bolts.

The switch mounts below and forward of the clutch peddle. The switch is threaded for adjustment so that it just makes contact and closes the circuit as the clutch peddle is fully depressed. To start the tractor, just connect the wired together to complete the circuit so that the key switch can...

I try to not leave the PTO driven pump running any more than necessary. I think that it is just adding to the wear of the pump, heating of the fluid (wear) and powers up an implement that could have an accidental control input of failure of another kind. That being said, if I am just moving the...

I wonder if they ever used a stamped steel cover on that same head design? Perhaps try searching for a different year. With my luck they wouldn't be interchangeable but it might be worth some searching. Another option is to make a new cover from scratch. If I did it, it would likely be...

Looking closely at the picture it would appear that the webbing in the casting is not sufficient to transfer the loads from the hold down bolts to the edges of the cover. If a new one has the same design, it is likely to fail in the same manor. That being said, you did get quite a few years...

Well, that sucks! Find the data plate on the engine and have a go at the search engines. Odds are one of the online dealers can help you. Affordable tractors and Circle G come to the top of my mind, but there are others that are worthy too. A really good weld shop may be able to fix it for...

We've seen those kinds of tags before. Also some unscrupulous types will change out tires and wheel and decals to make it look like something it is not. The loader and muffler definitely look like Jinma. I don't recognize the cab or hood. The muffler may be part of the engine in which case it is...

Good work and thanks for posting the follow up. It will help others in the future.

It is perfectly acceptable to use RTV in place of a low pressure gasket. The down side is that it is harder to remove the next time. BUT, you have to figure out what went wrong before attempting any repairs. I am not familiar with your particular engine but can definitely tell you that the 284...

Both of those hoses are on the low pressure side. I would be surprised if it exceeds 10 PSI on either one. The sealing washers on the banjo bolts may be leaking a bit. They may have work hardened. I don't know if they are aluminum or copper. In either case they can be annealed back to a soft...

That's a tough one. From the picture it would seem that there is a threaded boss welded to the bottom of the tank. It looks like the pot metal threads of the bowl broke off and left part of it inside the boss. It also looks like they used some sort of thread sealant on the joint. It would seem...

That is the low pressure line from the lift pump to the filter. It is easy to replace and you should be able to purge any air using the normal primer/purge procedure you would use when replacing the screw on filter. There won't be any pressure in it when the engine is not running. Also, if you...

Sounds like it is sucking air somewhere, you just have to track it down On mine it works best if the oil level is higher than the indicator on the dipstick. But that causes venting problems. Where are you seeing oil coming out fast but sputtering? In the tank or did you remove a hose on the...

That was my thought too, but a quick check of the parts manual shows no grease fitting in those pins. It does show a retainer screw that goes in the top lug, supposedly to hold the pin in place so it can't lift up during use. All the other grease nipples are shown. I really need to clean that...

Always! Actually in the last couple of years I have acquired a metal lathe, mill, shaper and a brake rotor lathe. These have greatly increased my capacity to do things, which in turn has greatly increased my backlog of projects. ;)o_O

If I had two tractors, I wouldn't have to take the backhoe off to use all the 3 point implements that I need. :)

Nice that you could tighten the fitting without taking anything apart! As far as greasing the swing pins, it has been a long time since I used the backhoe but this triggered a memory that there are no grease points there. The reason I remember is that it is something that should be greased just...

That 3 point top link casting is just bolted to the back of the hydraulic tank. There is a gasket to seal the two parts. First thing to try is make sure all the bolts are tight. If that doesn't work, you will have to drain the tank and take the bracket and gasket off for inspection and probably...

Not having done it myself, I can only speculate, but I think it is one of those "UGLY" jobs. By taking the hose off at the valve body and removing the hose from the outboard end of the pipe you 'might' be able to snake the whole thing out the bottom of the boom by the pivot. Kind of depends on...

A quality dealership with a good parts department would have touch-up paint in the blue, black, white and reddish brown right on the front counter! /s>

Take some pictures as you go through the adjustment and post them here along with an explanation. It will help others in the future. Best of luck and don't be afraid to ask more questions.

It is probably a re-branded Jinma. Check with Affordable tractors dot com or Circle G tractors dot com. They have parts and illustrations online. The clutch may only need adjustment. I don't think there is any way to tell what clutch it has by model and serial number. Their parts lists don't...

They have a good reputation.

When I was in high school I helped my dad split an old Case VAC tractor to replace the main seal. That was quite an ordeal since we didn't have any decent shop equipment. Getting the engine out of a tractor with a frame should be a lot easier. Especially now 50 years later when I own an engine...

Yes, the cylinder with the red mounting strap is a 1000W tank heater. Will bring the head from -30F up to above freezing in about an hour. Real necessity here. The banjo style ends are just crimped onto the hoses like any other hose end. Probably technically a 6mm fitting but will work just...

It doesn't take much pressure. I think the one I used was 4 to 7 psi. If your fuel tank is higher than the filter and the IP, you can probably just get it to run without the pump. At least for some testing. If you make a cover plate for the lift pump you can leave it connected, just tied up...

Good. I had looked but didn't find where I had taken a picture of the lift pump. It is in a box somewhere in the shop. I never seem to throw something away just because it doesn't do the assigned task any longer. Never know what I might do with it in the future. Or, it will just be the...

That is a different pump than mine but the basic structure is similar. They probably all are. The o-ring I was referring to was on the the actuator shaft where it enters the lift pump body. It was the only thing that separated the fuel in the lift pump from the oil in the IP sump. The lift pump...

You could use an imperial cylinder with rod ends (eyes) that are as close to the metric ones you have, just make sure they are larger holes. Then make (or have made) custom bushings to reduce the size of the eyes down to fit the metric pins on the backhoe. Converting the existing metric hoses...

Probably the easiest thing to do is pull all the injectors and take them to a diesel repair shop for testing. They can check the pressures, look for leaks and examine the spray pattern. They may need to know the make, model and year of the tractor and fuel injector pump. As I understand it some...

Depending on what injector pump you have, it might be possible for a leak to get into the crankcase through the front timing gear housing. Another possibility is an injector that is leaking and letting fuel wash down past the piston rings. I can't think of any other places where diesel would get...

The top of my list to check would be the connections at the fuse box. I don't know about the 2014 models but my 2006 had female spade terminals crimped on the wires and stuffed into the fuse box from the back. The low quality terminals would loose tension and not make good contact with the fuse...

Good job. Did you get any pictures of it apart that you could post?

I suspect you are correct in thinking it is the sector box. To confirm, take the hoses off of the cylinder and put them into a bucket. Then turn the steering wheel back and forth. If it still feels clunky, it most likely needs a new box. As far as I know there are no internal parts available...

The o-rings are going to all be metric sizes. Some will be close to imperial, but usually just not quite right. Unfortunately the assortments of metric sizes I have found don't seem to have many in common with the tractor. The will be listed by OD, ID and diameter (thickness) of the ring...

You have done the basic maintenance stuff so we can at least skip that. Some of the early 254 Jinma units had a separate tank and pump for the steering, some used the 3 point hydraulic system to power the steering. Since you mentioned the diverter valve, you likely have the combined system...

That' great news. You did a fantastic job. Welcome to tractor ownership and maintenance. Thank you for the update and the pictures. It is sure to help someone else in the future.

It is a little hard to tell but in the pictures it looks like the piston is retracted into the cylinder. Did the lift arms settle all the way down? If they did go down, then maybe you can use a little air pressure into the port at the bottom of the cylinder and see if it will push the piston...

When you removed that control block, did the 3 point lower itself? If not, there may be something physical blocking it.

The bolt with the plunger is likely the differential lock and would have nothing to do with the 3 point. Since your FEL is working the pump and lines are probably not part of the problem. Most often when a 3 point gets stuck in the up position it is the knob under the seat is turned all the way...

Found the document I didn't see before. Hope this helps

Some of the online dealers have the parts catalogs online. Look at Circle G tractors or Affordable Tractors. Sometimes an exploded parts diagram can help you figure out how it works. I have various other odds and ends of information that I don't have uploaded to the website, so if you need...

There aren't any pictures, just drawings, but have a look at page 52 of the first document on this page: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html Feel free to download and save anything you find there.

There are adjustments that you can make to compensate for wear. Also, if they get rusty inside, they have a tendency to stick and the brakes are hard to fully engage, leaving you thinking they are weak. Of course, they can stick in the engaged position too, which is worse as it causes extra wear...

The instructions I have for a 2006 284 with two stage clutch is that the fully released pedal should have a 2.5 to 3.0 mm clearance between the throw-out bearing and the clutch fingers. This should give you 3.5 to 5.0mm of "free" travel at the end of the rocker arm where the clutch push rod...

Actually here is a better image than I can scan: Cylinder Block & Flywheel - Y385 Engine The plug you need is #43 in the image. Just hover over it with the mouse and it will auto zoom in. Interestingly, there is no part number listed for #43, but the part number for #29 is the same as #43 from...

That cavity has the soft plug in it. My bet is the plug is rusted through and it is leaking. The coolant pools up against the back side of the timing case until it reaches the top, then flows out over the case. Do you have a parts manual for the engine? If not, tomorrow I can scan the page from...

Your conversion is correct. Although the tolerance is 72.5 PSI each way. The pressure seems like it is low compared to newer technology, but these engines and fuel systems are simple basic units of old technology so the spec is an "old time" number. Probably not the most efficient fuel system...

Frost plug, freeze plug, soft plug, all the same thing. Some are a domed disk that you put in with the dome facing out, then strike the dome to flatten it somewhat causing it to seal against the wall of the hole. It seems to me that these have fallen out of favor the last few years. The other...

Yes, most likely corrosion of some sort. Most plugs last the life of the engine, but stuff happens. There is a remote possibility that in cold temps and little or no anti-freeze, ice forming in the block can push out a plug. That does not appear to the the case here as I can see the coolant is...

I'm pretty sure that is a soft plug in the front of the block. You are going to have to pull the timing cover, gears and case to get at it. Before I went to all that work, I would try and fix up a plate for the water pump opening and block off the rad hoses. Then put some pressure into the...

My loader also makes some strange noises that are not the relief valve. Usually while curling the bucket up and only when it is cold outside.Didn't make that noise when it was new and has been happening for several years. Since it only happens when the fluid is cold, I don't worry about it, but...

Some of these used a washer with molded in rubber gasket and some used o-rings. The part that the hose screws onto is actually an adapter that screws into the back of the pump. There will be a seal on both ends of that adapter, either washer or o-ring. There are several places that could be...

Look for a data tag on the tractor somewhere. Perhaps the inside of a fender or on the frame. It sure sounds like a Jinma 200 series. 2006 4WD with a Y85 series engine would make it probably a Jinma 284. Hood and instrument clusters are probably different, perhaps different fenders too, but...

That is interesting. No idea if that is the way these IP work or not. I suppose that would be controlled by the governor. In any case, it seems to help get the engine rolling a little better just as the cylinders are catching and you let go of the starter. Then in about 1 to 2 seconds you can...

There was a time when the new Jinma starters were assembled without lube and they were problematic from the beginning. This was exacerbated by the fact that they also painted the mounting surface on the starter AND the bell housing, which gave it a poor ground at best. In any case, cleaning and...

It's been a long time since i've messed with an old style regulator, but I think the way to do it is to put full voltage to the Field winding in the alternator for just a moment to see if it will cause it to produce a higher voltage. The best way to do that is to use a jumper wire from the...

Sounds like you need a root grapple or perhaps a skeleton rock bucket. Take a look at all the stuff here https://www.palletforks.com/ for ideas. My OEM bucket is 48" and is about right for dirt or gravel. It won't quite cover the front tires which are 50" wide. A full load of wet soil or gravel...

That is interesting. I knew there were width options but hadn't considered all of them. Mine came out of the crate in position 2 from the chart. with that setup I am still narrower than the 3 point snow blower, so probably won't be going wider unless something changes in the way I use the...

It took me quite a while to figure out how this all went together. There were no pictures or instructions. The 4 bolts in the slots have a tendency to come loose from time to time. The slots are too big for the size bolts and washers they use. Plus the lock washers are not very good. Someday...

There were no markings on the valve that I remember. Maybe some casting numbers. I never did find out what brand it is. Here is the way I mounted the wheels. I put the valve stems out for convenience and never thought about trying to make it wider. Not sure how the rear wheel weights would work...

My FEL valve came as a kit from http://ranchhandsupply.com/ Valve, mounting bracket and hoses that go to the hard lines. I had to take one hard line connection apart to see what style it was. 10 or 12 years ago it was a little over $800 with shipping. The website is under construction and none...

A skid plate under the front end is something I have never seen. You would have to fabricate something from scratch. Brackets on the battery box, maybe where the factory weights would hang, then some more brackets from the frame farther back. If your FEL frame has the mounting brackets for a...

What is the condition of the transmission shift lever boot? If it is bad and is letting water into the transmission you need to get it out. Assuming the tractor has been stored exposed to the elements. The transmission shares fluid with the rear end so you have to drain and replace both. Have...

I know I have the specs somewhere but can't find them. I did find them on page 16 of this document (not my posting, so it won't go on my web page) https://media.rotek.at/a000/000/089/000000089_V080100_HAB_MED_00_RT_A_en.pdf

Head re-torque starts on page 34 of the first document on this page: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html The second document on the web page has lots of good info and drawings in it too. I don't see the specs for the valves. I will have to do some digging on that.

Yup, fuses can be faulty too. They are not sealed and moisture can get inside and cause the element to corrode. I would suggest circuit breakers, but they go bad too. Had a 30 year old breaker on my water heater go bad a couple of weeks ago. Started tripping for no reason. After a few cycles, it...

My 284 was made in October of 2006. I got it in Jan of 2007. Tractor, backhoe and front end loader all in the factory crates. Put it together in my shop. Plowed snow with it that winter, then used it to install a new septic system the next summer. It's not perfect (people sneer and look down at...

This is a cross reference sheet that came with my tractor. The hand written notes are mine. If I remember correctly the NAPA thermostat was a few thousands of an inch too large on the outer diameter to fit in the housing. I gently filed the edge all the way around until it fit properly. The one...

How many hours on your machine? Head bolt torque shouldn't effect starting unless they are so loose they leak. Does your tractor have the decompression lever? If so, you need to check it is traveling properly. Also, you can use it to spin the engine up to speed and then "drop" it for sudden...

Over the years I have made several repairs, upgrades, additions to the tractor's electrical system. There is a brand new generic fuse box (NAPA I think) on the shelf waiting for the day when I re-wire that thing from front to back. I keep hoping for some spare time to devote to that project as...

Here is where I mounted the negative battery cable. There was already a threaded hole in the frame and it is easy access for maintenance.

Bob's pin-out in the other thread is correct for the OEM switch. I hadn't seen that before. Here is my switch with different labels. My memory had failed, there are not two run positions, there are two start positions. I have never used the one to the left (counter clockwise). Does yours make...

The loose wire with the ring terminal just needs to go to a good ground, it doesn't really matter where. I think the horn gets it's ground through the bracket. The practice of replacing fuses with a larger size is usually not a good idea. Sometimes you need to, but usually it just masks the...

Ok, let's go through the wiring. Battery to starter, large cable - good Starter to fuse in block # 2 should be at least a 10 ga. wire. OEM is woefully undersized for 30 amps. This wire is always suspect because it has poor quality terminals crimped on it and they are known to get loose or...

Use a multi-meter or a test light and start following the power from the battery to the starter to the amp meter to the switch. And as always, check the grounds, check the grounds, check the grounds (advice from an old farmer....) Low quality parts, age and weather do take a toll.

I think it goes under the top fuse block screw and grounds against the metal bar that holds the block. Zoom in on this picture and I think you can just barely see it under the block and the tag is next to the horn

This is a better one. I need to get it uploaded to my site

Possibly. There should be a run position to the left of off, does that work? The contacts inside the key switch are notorious for wearing out and if the contact for power in is shot, then nothing else will work. You can see how to wire a replacement here...

On the schematics I have seen #44 is always the ground. Do you have a schematic? If not you can download a copy here: http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Jinma284.html Help yourself to any of the other stuff as well. I didn't create it, just passing it on for others

what is the number on the little yellow plastic tag? There may be another tag on the wire, one for each digit. It is most likely a ground wire but without more info it is impossible to tell for sure.

That is the same behavior that I have observed. Also the wheel will spin in either direction without stops. I've never been able to figure out exactly how the steering box works.

The pump is probably a fixed gear type. It displaces the same amount of fluid every revolution (minus internal leakage) so faster rpm means more fluid per unit of time. You are correct, the pump can only produce pressure if it has something to push against. Normally that is the function of the...

Now you have me scratching my head... Does it still only show 200 PSI after it started working? IF it is is plumbed the way I believe it is, then the problem was most likely at the 3 point relief valve, otherwise you should be seeing full pressure at the pump when nothing is moving. Lower of...

The knob with a set screw is a needle valve that controls how fast the 3 point goes down. If you screw it all the way in tight, the 3 point won't lower at all, but it will still go up just fine. This knob is used to keep heavy implements from "slamming" down too fast or to allow lighter...

Most likely you will see a drop in pressure as the cylinders move Then return to the previous setting when it bottoms out or the lever is moved back to neutral. I've never done this test so can't say for sure what it will show.

Where do you set the throttle when you start it? Generally, I just nudge the hand throttle until the peddle moves about a quarter inch. A little more or less depending on air temp and if it is the first start of the day.

Usually the suction side hose (from tank to pump) has a larger ID than the pressure side hose that goes from the pump to the valve bank.

Also you will need a bar or chain to keep the pump assembly from spinning with the PTO. The hoses and fittings are not designed for those forces.

Sorry for the delayed response. I was able to find the old OEM loader valve but didn't have time to take it apart. Here is a picture of the bottom end. I think the hex cap is actually the relief valve adjuster. There is a jam nut just under it. The whole assembly is held onto the main body with...

My secret weapon for cold starts. 1000 Watt tank heater. Depending on the outside temp it will heat the head to summer temps in less than an hour.

Good work on the glow plugs, you did it right. As for the hard starting after getting air in the system. You did all the right things. I think sometimes things can just be cantankerous. Sometimes cursing like a drunken sailor seems to help. Other times it just annoys those around you with no...

Now enter the FEL and it's control valve. There are two spools, one for lift and one for bucket curl. When both spools are in neutral the fluid entering the valve is blocked from the cylinders and must go somewhere. It dumps back to "tank" through the out port. I think this is called an open...

I've never understood completely how priority valves work but suspect there is some kind of double relief valve buried in there somehow. Some Jinma tractors had a separate hydraulic system for steering. Pump, tank, everything. Some of them had a dual pump where one supplied the hydraulics and...

Good plan. You can test the battery yourself. Read the voltage while you are cranking it over. If below ~10v the battery is most likely getting weak. Glow plugs can be tested with a multi-meter set to read ohms. I don't remember the resistance off the top of my head, but you can check against a...

Nice job. Simple is usually best.

Thomas is right, the OEM connectors were a known weak point. However, if that was the culprit it would likely stop the steering from working as well. The usual failure mode is that the internal valves close and dead head the pump, taking out the seal. Disconnect and re-connect the couplers...

Good fix! Please post some pictures of it.

Just thought of something else. There should be a vent on the injector pump. If that is plugged for some reason it could cause a pressure buildup when it warms up. This would force the oil past the seal and into the crankcase. The seal may or may not be damaged. Look for a vent and make sure it...

Before tearing the pump apart for a suspicious seal I would want to know more about the situation. First, use the same engine oil for the pump. That way any leaks that wind up in the crankcase are compatible and do no harm. Second, check the crankcase oil for fuel dilution. Having an oil...

Jinma has used several different designs over the years. For example my 2006 284 has a swivel seat for use with the backhoe but it does not have any bearings in it. There are basically two pipes. One welded to the base and one welded to the seat bracket. The upper one slips over the bottom one...

Where did you put the gauge to check the pressure? Everything is upstream of the 3 Point relief so if it was the problem you wouldn't see that much pressure anywhere else. Did you swap the lines at the valve or at the cylinders? The system may be providing 2300 but if the relief in the loader...

Interesting. My tractor has the opposite problem when it is cold out. In order to raise the 3 point you have to lift the bucket up and hold the 3 Point lever in "UP" while lowering the bucket. First things first, is the tank topped off properly? (probably, but had to ask...) Second thing I...

More than likely that is a re-badged Jinma 200 series tractor. stevenm5215 is right, the wiring is absolutely horrible. In the fuse box the wire ends have female spade connectors crimped on them and they are "snapped" into the back of the fusebox. The spades of the fuses just push into them, not...

You might be able to figure out a way to make a "T-nut" of sorts instead of the round rivnut. A bar of say 1/4" thick steel that will slide into the channel beyond the rivnut area, going both ways. Drill and tap the appropriate hole for the bolts. Then slide it in so that the hole is centered...

Of the two remote couplers on my tractor the bottom one is just a pipe connected to the tank with a banjo bolt. No pressure available there, just a return. The upper one has a pipe that goes forward and connects to the 3 point lowering control block. The one with the knob just below the seat. I...

Yes, the exploded views are a little too compact to easily see what is going on. These tractors are not for the "haul it to the dealer for a burned out headlight crowd" (the guy next door to me) . But they are a fairly rugged little tractor for those with the ability to wrench on their own...

Good news that you can actually see the speed changes. That says to me that the linkages are all working properly inside. So all you are missing the neutral of the speed change lever, everything else seems to be OK. Does the handle say 540 N 1000? Mine does and it was built in 2006, about the...

Here is something you can try. Engage the PTO with the lever by your foot. You should always do this at idle or as slow as the engine will let you engage without the implement stalling the engine. In this case you don't have anything attached so it should engage at idle. If you have a grinding...

The PTO speed change gears are in the rear differential. The lever turns a shaft with a nub on the inside. The nub pushes a fork back and forth that moves a slider to the different positions. The lever is held into the different positions by the external detent. About the only thing you can...

Just to clarify. There is a pressure relief valve in the IP that keeps incoming fuel to about 40 to 55 PSI? This valve was failing and dumping pressure in the 15# range until you replaced it? In the first video, as the engine rev'ed up, was the IP actually drawing fuel faster than the lift...

This entire story line would certainly alter my thoughts of loyalty to the dealership and perhaps the brand as well. 45 years of observing dealerships has only served to reinforce the "fix it myself" attitude. But a comment from this stranger is probably no more helpful to the OP than his dealer.

Is your fuel tank above the Injection Pump? If not, the IP may not have the ability to "suck" enough fuel to run the engine. There is a lift pump for a reason. I think the IP needs about 3 to 7 PSI of incoming pressure. Bob Rooks?

Not your exact tractor but perhaps generic enough to provide some help

Glad it helped. If you back up to the main page of the website (harnerfarm.net) the link to Jinma will have links to other documents as well. Help yourself to any of them. I didn't create them, just passing them on for others.

Air could be leaking in around the hand pump plunger. I don't remember for sure but I think it just an O-ring. What does the sediment bowl look like. Some of them have fine screens in the top above the bowl and you have to take them out to clean it. Some tanks have finger screens in them as...

Check out page 40 of this document. Hopefully it will help http://www.harnerfarm.net/Jinma/Files/jinma_manual.pdf I am not sure if your pump is like this or not.

You didn't say what year your tractor is, but I think the newer ones don't have water pumps you can grease. Usually the small hole is a weep hole that lets coolant drip out the bottom if the internal seal goes bad. You usually see it weeping and replace the pump long before it fails. The...

3PT issues. Most all 3 points (and other hydraulics) have some leak down factor. Seepage in a valve or a hose or fitting can all add up. I consider some leak down as normal and only start troubleshooting when it gets to be more than just a slight nuisance. The 3PT cylinder is completely...

You didn't say where the previous owner T'd into the FEL lines for the BH or how the BH return line is connected. On my factory setup BH, it has it's own hydraulic system that is completely separate from the tractor. It has a tank that holds ~8 gallons and a pump that bolts onto the tractor...

Hi Sporta, Welcome to the forum. My tractor is a 2006 Jinma 284 with Jinma FEL and Jinma Backhoe so my comments will be based on that. They should be just about the same tractor. YOu didn't say if you have Jinma FEL and BH or some other brand. Also if the BH is a frame mount or 3 point mount...

The vent is usually placed over a baffle to keep oil from sloshing out the vent. crude but effective. It looks like that tractor used to be blue. It might be worth it to try removing the paint from the canister/sump to see if there are any decals or other marks on it to indicate fill level...

Well that sheds some new light on this one. The round casting that the seat is bolted to is most likely the 3 point cylinder casting. (on my Jinma, that is inside the hydraulic tank so it looks considerably different) With the seat flipped forward, it appears that there is a breather tube...

Yup, that's a filter, not the sump. I suspect the sump is the section of cast iron below the seat and above the rear axle housing. This is typical for this size import tractor. There should be a fill plug on the back side behind the seat. You may have to move the seat forward to get good access...

Yup, only gear oil gets that designation, which makes it pretty darned heavy for hydraulic oil but is the right choice for the transmission and rear ends. I suspect something got lost in the translation somewhere. Although the Chinese spec of 15 mm (squared) @ 100 C is pretty close to the cSt @...

The document you have seems to indicate that the transmission and hydraulic system use the same oil, but that does not mean they use the same sump. That is something you will need to sort out by looking and following the lines. SAE 90 seems a little heavy for hydraulic fluid, best to find out...

No it fits in the 3 Pt hitch attachment that I already had. I didn't have the material to make the grader fit the 3pt directly. It goes in where the ball is mounted and I run a chain with tension-er over the upper ball. Sorry I don't have any photos of it all set up and working. I also have a...

Is this a single stage or two stage (for the PTO) clutch? Do the fingers come completely free from the throw out bearing when the pedal is released? With that much pedal free play, I would hope so but if for some reason they are still running on the bearing, it may be keeping the plate from...

Fits in the 3 point receiver hitch. Built from what I had on hand at the time. The scarifier section was an afterthought that only sorta works. Also later I discovered that it was too much weight for the hitch so I added a chain from the top of the hitch to the back of the plane and use a...

Typically any air that leaks into a cylinder gets compressed under pressure then when the pressure releases the compressed air forms many little bubbles instead of one big one. This allows the fluid to hold the air and carry it out of the cylinder on the next cycle. I think this is one of the...

I think a slightly bent rod would cause a cylinder to bind in a certain part of the stroke. Bend it far enough and it just jams and won't go any farther. Other internal damage might be able to cause the same effect.

Interesting that the "hiccup" always occurs at the same point in the arc. That would seem to indicate a mechanical binding not hydraulic. Here is an idea: Remove both swing hoses from the valve body and put the open ends in a bucket. Then manually move the boom through the entire swing arc. The...

On my backhoe the swing was wild and chaotic to the point of being nearly uncontrollable. The problem was because of the geometry of the machine the full flow through the valve couldn't be easily feathered by the less than high quality control valve. The solution was to install restrictions in...

Does your tractor look like the picture in post #29 just above your post? If so, the differential lock works by the cam on the lever pushing the rounded bolt/shaft inwards. This shaft has a fork attached to it that slides the jaws together which locks the axles. The shaft has a spring on it...

It appears that you got lucky and this has probably not done any damage. Good job on being observant and cautious when things don't look right. Many people would run it until it quit. I suspect the head and I think the block is fine. Here is why: Coolant in the rocker cover. Coolant level...

Honest mistake. Devious trick. Either way, you have been shown the true character of the people involved. Only you can decide if you want to deal with people of that character. If you do, hypothetically, what does that say about your character?

Since I have never had one apart, this is just a pure guess. Working right to left, starting with the screw on cap at the upper right. That should unscrew and the spring should come out easy enough. The next piece to the left has a precision ground silver area that would be a close tolerance...

Which backhoe do you have? Post a picture of the valve assembly, it might help others figure out what you have and how it is configured.

Personally if all I was worried about was water, I would drain and refill the tank. Then run it for awhile and check for water in the fluid. If found, drain and replace again. If you keep the drained fluid in a clean bucket it may go ahead and separate out with the water sinking to the bottom...

In the case of my tractor, the thread on the pin to the thread in the nut fit was so poor that it was impossible to hold them tight. I tried extra washers to get the nut out to fresh threads and even thread locker but nothing could keep them tight. Once they loosened up, it was short order for...

That bolt and spacer will probably be stronger than the original pin. Those pins are not made from the best steel, and I am betting that when they turned down the shank for the threads they did not properly radius the inside shoulder. This would leave a stress riser right at the point of most...

Are there any cover plates you can take off to look inside the bell housing? Do you feel resistance as you press the clutch pedal? If there is an external spring that holds the clutch pedal you could try removing that to see if the pedal "just falls down". If it does that would indicate a...

In this case the thread pitch is not specified. The 34 refers to the length as measured from underneath the bolt head to the end of the bolt. For metric threads the pitch is the measured distance from the top of one thread to the top of the next, expressed in millimeters. Generally when...

The online catalogs show M10 X 34 with a 10 X 140HV washer

Which control valve? If OEM you should be able to look it up in one of the online parts catalogs. Places like Circle G and Affordable have good online catalogs. It is possible that the sizes will be listed in the catalog. If not you will have to pull a fitting and measure it. Hydraulic places...

The biggest problem with security cameras is data security. I have read reports of cameras that quietly connect to servers in China or elsewhere. This goes undetected unless you use some good data sniffer software and capture the data stream. One instance was once the camera was configured and...

IIRC yellow metals are either brass or bronze which is copper combined with either zinc or tin? In transmissions and axles usually bushings or synchronizers. Some additives can attack the elements zinc or tin and "pull" them out of the part in question. It is a slow process but it can do damage...

Interesting unit. Does it run and drive? I can't quite make out all the details on the data plate for the engine. Any other data plates on it? If you can get a better picture of the plate, please post it so we can see the full width and all the information on it. Is it actually a 4WD or does...

Here is my engine data plate. Not much use except for comparison. Bob is right, at least here in the US I think removing a plate with EPA info is a no-no. At any rate they are supposed to be riveted or welded on, not held on with screws. My guess is the importer did this and the original is long...

AAARRRGGG, the edit function is not working so I will post a follow up. ( I need more coffee and proofread before hitting send) Since this is a 3 cylinder tractor it is not likely to be 60 HP but more like the 40 HP that Bob mentioned. (Bob you changed your avatar) It may be a Jinma 300 series...

For all practical purposes that looks like a Jinma tractor all right. A lot like my 2006 284, only bigger with more stylized hood and fenders. Jinma made tractors for a lot of different "brands" and there were differences between all of them but the base tractor was the same. Jinma made their...

Yes, backing a trailer is where the loose 3pt is the most annoying. Yesterday I needed the tractor for another chore so while it was running I looked the links over more closely. With the back blade on the hitch and both links pinned in the first hole. When the blade was on the ground there was...

Yup! Mine too. The stabilizer pins are just aft and slightly above the link arm pins. Ouch, now my head hurts. Even though they are close to being in the same plane, they are not so the length of the stabilizer can not be fixed solid as it would cause the lift arm to bind as it travels. Maybe...

Now I have to go out and double check mine. :unsure:

Perhaps a ratcheting stabilizer would work better. Something like this...

Most people I know call them link stabilizers. Yes they are a pain to get set properly but in my opinion they are better than using chains, which was the original solution to hitch sway. There are hooks welded onto the draw bar bracket on my 284 that can be used for anti-sway chains. I find that...

Some of the Jinma dealers have online parts catalogs. Places like Circle G and Affordable. They are very helpful to see how things are put together. There are some documents that I have collected over the years and posted on my website. Feel free to have a look and download copies for yourself...

You described what happened and your picture came through fine. What you didn't explain was what caused you to take it apart in the first place. I only asked because there are other things in the system that can cause pressure issues. The relieve valve in the 3 point, the power steering priority...

You didn't say what issue you are having with the relief valve, but just in case you didn't know, there is another one in the 3-point lift valve assy.

Oh boy, a puzzle with no picture on the box. Is this the joystick control unit where it actually runs two spool valves by a couple of mechanical linkages? My 2006 284 came with that on the ZL20 loader. Unfortunately the manual does not show an exploded view of the valve. I replaced it early on...

After wanting a lathe for years I finally decided to get serious about it and with a budget close to the OP's I initially started looking at the Harbor Freight end of things. It was a good thing they didn't have any available as the quality has actually gone down in the last few years...

I doubt it. I monitor things closely and have never had anything show up in my sediment bowl. The engine produces full power and runs fine. I have a spare filter on the shelf ready to go at a moments notice. I don't believe in replacing a fuel filter based on some arbitrary number or date. When...

The NAPA Gold #3195 that I use is listed as a 10 micron filter. Never had an issue with it and I am running the first filter with 890 hours on it. Spins right on the OEM housing.

What Bob said. Either replace the entire filter setup with one you like or stick with what came on it. As for the sediment bowl I would upgrade that to a glass bowl because it makes maintenance easier. You will still want a sediment bowl no matter what secondary filter you use. If you are not...

Failed secondary filter for sure. That is why I queried about when it was last changed. ANY suspected infestation calls for immediate replacement of all filters and flushing of the system. Treating a dirty system is just a waste of treatment. If I didn't want to replace the whole filter/adapter...

Ah, that is typically called the rack. The governor runs the rack back and forth to regulate fuel flow to the injectors. When you pull the shut off it over rides the governor and moves the rack so far that all fuel to the injectors is cut off and the engine dies. I have never had that cover off...

Just curious as to exactly what you are referring too when you say "remove the cover plate off the fuel gate". These are terms I am not familiar with. The factory sediment bowl assembly is made up of the housing (which holds the shut off valve), the plastic (sort of see through) bowl, a seal...

I just looked at the replacement bowl setups from Ranch Hand Supply and they show two different styles. You can see them here: Jinma Fuel Sediment Bowl Also checked an online parts catalog and they list two different styles, one with a straight thread (metric) using a jam nut and seal and one...

My fuel tank had a 1/4" NPT fitting on the bottom of the tank. The original bowl had a threaded nipple on the top that screwed directly into the tank. The replacement from Ranch Hand (second photo) also had the nipple on the top but I took the opportunity to use a couple of elbows to offset the...

The OEM fuel bowl on my 2006 284 had a plastic bowl that quickly clouded and was difficult to monitor the contents. I bought one with a glass bowl from Ranch Hand Supply. Still crystal clear all these years later. I did discover that the OEM fuel line with the banjo fittings is close enough to...

Yup, agreed with the other responses. It is very unusual for the manufacturer to use two different castings for this kind of production. It is understandable that the newer ones might be of higher quality and look nicer. I would take all 3 to a machine shop and ask if they can make either one...

It is hard to know what else went wrong without getting a look inside. The access port is a cover on the bell housing just in front of the clutch pedal. If you have a front end loader this cover is removed and the mounting bracket bolts on in its place. You have to either remove the FEL so you...

If you have the service manual, check to see if there is a chart of standard torque values. These are used for anywhere a specific value is not listed. Not all manuals have that information so you have to rely on torque tables from other sources. I usually try to check 2 or 3 different ones to...

If my math is correct the 284 Y385 engine is about 2.5L. At 2800 RPM it would be sucking in about 125 cubic feet of air per minute, give or take a little.

For what it is worth: After 15 years and 860 hours I have never had an overheat that was caused by the air cleaner in front of the radiator and the canister has never collected enough dust to come out the squeeze vent at the bottom of the canister. I have only had to replace the filter a couple...

Donaldson P148969 fits my factory 2006 Jinma 284 filter canister perfectly. Also WIX 42276

Those were mentioned on a machining forum I frequent but I hadn't looked into them. Ingenious little buggers and priced accordingly! The statement that they work on tension not friction is a little misleading. Yes you have to increase tension to override the cam and loosen the bolt, BUT it...

"Some" bolts are designed to stretch a certain amount as the final torque is set. Usually these are one time use only bolts (or studs in some applications). Once this bolt has been torqued to final spec it is "used" and even if you did it two minutes ago and have to take it out to do something...

Very good Danica! Glad you are back to tractoring and done with the fixing. :) I think in this instance the temp gauge could be thought of a "fuel use" gauge. It takes a certain amount of fuel to warm your engine up to a particular reading and it took that much fuel use to draw in enough air to...

Very good that you got to the bottom of it. Care to add any details like where the air was getting in and what you had to do to stop it?

You could always recycle it yourself. With the proper application of heat all the elements that make up the tire will return to their place of origin. Just say'n.....

do you have any pictures?