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On our new 425, I’m having trouble (typical for me having troubles😆) with the Float feature. I had found it on the old 2001 unit by accident and found it to be easy to use. (Only glitch was sometimes the joystick would “fall out” of its Float position, but I’m sure that 20-plus years had a lot...

Some funny stuff there! 😆 How about the “joy stick” control—the tall one? I’m used to the shorter one on the old unit, and this new one being much taller (to me) seems a bit more action is needed…I’m thinking I’d like to make it shorter…or maybe like other things, it just takes some getting used...

Yes sir that hopefully will help. 😊

Very possible! 😊 I had the wife run it for a bit, scooping up dirt on an uphill grade, then move it across the hillside and dump on downhill grade. She too was a bit nervous with the pedals—especially reversing. I’ve found that reversing uphill is worse too, mainly in rough ground. (rough as...

Well…it WAS. Been into a lot of dirt in last few days…😁

Yes sir, I always have both feet on ( but I have size 13 feet😜) and I tried my best to go slow…even throttled down. Maybe the bar tread tires contributes—our old one had turf tread and was a little smoother rolling. I’m gonna try and get the wife to run it some today and see how she does. 😁

I got it out yesterday and used it for a little grading work and grab a couple of tree trunks. The grapple bucket worked great for the trees. So I’m working mostly sideways on a slight uphill grade. I was trying to dig out some on upper side and moved to lower side, just above a bank. This new...

No but I kinda thought that something along those lines would be good.

Honestly, don’t know just yet. Depends on what wife decides. (It was hers long before I came into her life 😉)

Uh…I’d like to live a little longer 😆(wife wouldn’t see it my way at all LOL)

And a few more: In the bucket is the auger head and the 9” auger is pictured leaning against some other stuff.

More:

April 10 we took delivery of a new PT425. We drove down to Power Trac and Terry even run it up on the trailer for me. (As most of you know personally, he is a great fellow, and is a walking encyclopedia for Power Trac!😆) He took a lot of time with us on a couple of trips down there and was with...

I guess I should close out this epic. 😆 The old 2001 unit was retired, and on April 10 we took delivery of a new PT425 at the front doors of Power Trac. And Terry was with us the whole way. (What a great guy, and so knowledgeable!) For now the old girl sits forlornly, a shadow of her former...

I’ll start another thread and post what I have so far. 😊

April 2025…I have a new 425 and have some pics I can post if anyone would like to see. 😊

Thanks again my good fellow. That kinda hits right-between-the-eyes. Wife is smarter—she already decided we’re going to get a new one. And seeing the new unit on display at HQ, it’s been updated in some areas…one area is much more room for knees and feet area. More comfortable now. Looking...

I’ll display some hopefully later today. 😊

“Loss of charge pressure” and the “case pressure”—could you teach me a little bit more by detailing what they are, and possible causes? Yes, it powers the 4 wheel motors. And yes, 😆 it can surely use some parts. Probably more complex than what I see, but I like diving in to see how things work...

Yes! I’m amazed at how good the rest of the pump looks inside. What I call the “swash plate” (that chrome ring that surrounds the shaft) just lays down in there and comes right out. You can see some “chatter” marks on it—I’d think it has to be perfectly smooth. That would probably be hard to...

And:

More:

If anyone would like to see, I took some pics of the pump and some of the insides, as well as the engine coupler:

Very true…

Yes we will likely purchase an extra quick attach plate. The backhoe already has a 1 7/8 hitch socket on it. I was using the 425 to haul it around—the previous owner had welded on a plate for a ball to mount in. I left it coupled up one day working the backhoe because I was having to move it...

Hmmmm…yep, good food-for-thought. And yes, I would ensure cleanliness of the motors. (I believe that those would be the only parts I’d use from the 425–otherwise I’m thinking they’re really expensive to buy new, and these will be just sitting there.) Hmmm…maybe adding a small aux tank, pump...

Sorry—somehow my answer was put inside the previous comment…😯 Let’s see…I would have to rig up/add/weld something to mount the motors to—maybe square tubing to use as an axle? It’s sort-of “self balancing” as it is…in tow mode the two short axles are inserted into a cross tube on the bucket...

I’ve been thinking again (oh no!😆) Since the old 425 has been retired, I’m thinking of trying to use 2 of the wheel motors and adapting to my towable HF trencher/backhoe. It would be great to be able to move the backhoe around without having to hook up something to maneuver it around… I’m sure...

Yes sir—it is an amazing sight! Lots of great stuff, and well built. Heavy. And I believe it’s “official”…when wife gets back from work in Detroit next week, she’s sure now she wants a new one. This time with a grapple-bucket and a post hole digger. 😯😆

Well…🥴 yesterday wife and I drove back down to Power Trac and picked up the “body” to bring home for its “memorial” service. No cremation or burial—will be on display for the visiting public to pay their respects. Instead of flowers donations can be made to the “fund for a new 425”…😔😉😊😆 But...

Yes Terry had covered all that from the beginning. I’ve learned he’s very thorough as well as having a great wealth of knowledge. And he wants to take care of his customers. 😊

We didn’t have a long conversation about it, but I believe it was easy to hear in his voice he was a bit saddened to see the condition this poor girl has come to in 24 years—it’s first 14-15 years it was pushed to its limits moving timber from the nearby woods—mostly hillsides, pushing...

Yes, Terry had said they would check it all out after the pump was rebuilt to get a better idea of the overall condition. That was with the initial thought it would be a simple pump rebuild. After I got it to them, they find it’s beyond rebuild. So that changed everything going forward (or not 🥴)

Well…prepare the hearse. Terry called this morning and it’s bad. Pump is destroyed. Looking at around 2500 to fix, and looking the whole unit over, may not be worthwhile to put that kind of money into it… So now, the wife and I (it’s actually hers 😊) are trying to figure out next move. Wow…😔

Latest: unit delivered to Terry and company today. They’ll deal with the pump issue/rebuild, and give me an evaluation on the condition of the rest of the machine. Crossing fingers for a little more life…(almost 25 years already and it’s been worked hard😊)

A couple years ago the wife and I drove down there. Met everybody and toured the place. Lots of great displays, and yes I can understand—good thing you’re not so close…LOL 😆

I talked with Terry this morning and discussed all of this, and I believe it best if I trailer it to them and let them rebuild the pump and evaluate the machine as a whole. That way they can make sure the system is set up right when put back together and operates as it should. Makes better sense...

Attaching a pic of the pump coupler here. Can you detail it a little more so I can try and grasp it? Is it just a straight coupler so that the pump turns with the engine rpms constantly? Or is there some kind of slip built into it, that would let the pump ramp up? Does it have a “proper” name so...

Mossroad…I got to thinking again…(oh no—that’s dangerous for me 🤪) If only those two socket head bolts are holding that pump on and one has the head broken off clean, then only the other one bolt is holding it! I’ve never noticed any kind of slack in the mounting ears…I would think it would move...

Very good points Peter.😊 To tell the truth, I’m anxious to “open it up” and see the problem(s). But over recent years I’m becoming more and more hesitant to dive deep into repairs and such. Mainly because my brain has been diminishing in being able to retain things like I used to. And, then I...

Oh boy…should I get some crying towels ready? Prepare a burial? Ouch! 😉😊🥴

Thanks for that (I remember that post…very helpful. Just wish I could remember so much good information/pointers more readily🥴) I stand corrected—that cable cylinder that pushes/pulls the direction lever is the “hydroback”, yes? And then the pump underneath is the “tram” pump, yes? I believe I...

Mossroad…I know you’re intimately aware of this area 😉) so…are there only 2 socket head bolts holding the pump onto the front frame? Looks that way to me and one of mine appears to have the head broken off…

More of the hydroback area:

More pics from earlier: (the pedal area, looking at the linkage and cable…I cleaned the area up and lubed things)

Well…I did some piddling with it today…was trying it out. It seemed a little better but then started acting up again in reverse…and THEN—made a loud sound from the pump area and wouldn’t move at all reversed. A little movement forward and then the noise. With it still running I lifted the hood...

Update for Thurs Feb 20: Spoke with Terry this morning. He heard the video and thinks it’s pump whine and pretty normal, but as far as the “stalling movement” he suggested checking the coupler from engine to pump. Sometimes they start stripping, and maybe if so, I can try tightening a set screw...

MossRoad said: First, these machines are capable and designed to go full speed going forward AND reverse. So the treadle pedals need to be able to move the directional control on the variable volume pump an equal distance in both directions, whether that be cable operated or hydraulically...

Yea, I think you’re onto it. Except, no load and it happens. Even on flat ground. And again, backing up a slight incline and I did run into a little bit of packed snow, and it stalled. I was in a bind here—going forward and I’d be over into the ravine. I had to keep punching at it and finally...

Yes it does look green…but when I drained some out into a pan, it looked like new, clean oil. Earlier today I did email Terry with those videos. 😊

And again, pedaling forward there’s hardly any noise like this…and it moves ahead fine. Backwards and it’ll stall at slightest incline.(I haven’t had the time to make the call to Terry and crew)

Thanks for letting me know how…I couldn’t remember if I ever had posted one before—my memory has just too much crap going on and I can’t keep up with where, when, what, etc. I’ve done 😜

Finally another update…(too much cold, snow, rain, more snow…🤪) I’ll attach two videos to detail a little better. (I’ve forgotten—can I add videos? Can’t seem to figure it out)

Hmmm interesting idea…I’ll have to study on how to do that.

Mine is LOUD, And that’s with very little load on it—like backing uphill…

I’ll give them a call in the next day or two. Many thanks!

Earlier this evening I had a few minutes…I cranked it up and let it run a while at a lower throttle. About 20 min later I throttled it up and looked in the tank. No bubbles, but at the higher throttle I did see some gentle “rolling over” of the oil. Kinda like a car radiator circulating. While I...

Hey Pete…back in town again and had a chance to look back at the oil I put in—it was 5w30, and that was what I was advised to put in at that time. (And new filter)

I did a change probably little more than a year ago, and filter. But it’s only been run maybe 10 hours since then. Still looks good. I can’t recall the exact oil but I followed recommendations from folks here.

I was adding yours and more info to my ongoing file and reread MossRoad’s details and pic about hydro back. It seems I didn’t remember, but it appears the only adjustment would be the cylinder and mount that can be slid in its bracket. Since I had lifted the unit on all fours and found no...

Thanks again. I started reading about cavitation. One site mentioned this, concerning viscosity and cheap to expensive fluids: “Therefore, most hydraulic systems should not be started up with the oil any colder than 40°F and should not be put under load until the oil is at least 70°F.” Wow! The...

Hmmmm…interesting. Best I can recall I don’t think I’ve had many occasions of running it at low rpms—it’s usually cranked up…at least all the times I’ve heard it so far. I’m gonna try in the next few days to get some video of it when it’s happening.

Dang!…had to fire it up last two days to clear off snow…Brrrrrr COLD! I’m OVER this snow crap 🤪 So I just had to contend with constantly pushing up the throttle to get done and get back to WARM and thaw out my frozen toes🥶 Maybe we’ll get a warm spell and I can dig into this again. Again, very...

“…sneaking a wrench…” now that, I’m not sure of. My first thought is probably not from what I remember last time I had that top tunnel/mount plate off…I’m thinking awfully tight space but could be wrong. I think I’d rather just go ahead and pull it off and have another closer look—the choke...

Ah! I might have seen that once before but it was long time ago and so many things today cloud my feeble brain…😊

Dang! I was making a video clip of it acting up…turns out I had it in photo mode! Decided to use it to shovel/scrape snow off the sloped driveway…it got the job done but struggled. I think the problem is more pronounced in reverse mode…and for some reason (this has been happening now for quite...

Not that I know of, but I’ll check again…hours? Oh boy! This machine has had a hard life from 2001 up to about 2016, and I’ve been fairly gentle with it since 2020…

Not on level ground. On slopes it wants to keep rolling, with almost no resistance —I have to keep stabbing at the reverse pedal to stop it going downhill. On level ground forward at speed, suddenly let off the pedal, and I get a very quick/split-second whine/noise, and stops normally.

Had a few buckets of dirt today and was dumping onto a little hill. As I’d let off the forward pedal and the momentum would carry me forward the noise would happen while it was moving forward, no pedals. Seems like it doesn’t hold back like it had been before…

Yes. After the fluid change I did bleed it…this was several months back and other than some other motor issues I had (that saga elsewhere here 🤪) it has worked just fine. This seems to have started recently and kind of snuck up on me… The noise—it happens at high or low throttle, loaded or...

Our old 2001 425 (Kohler CH25) has been doing fine since repairing the last issue. Now it has started having terrible trouble moving—reverse is struggling, and while trying to back up a small flat trailer with it on a slight incline, it struggled more and eventually stops moving. But whines...

Thanks again. It was late last night and too many things had been consuming my mind. Sometime today I’ll try that too. 😊

Oh yes! That had slipped my mind—in the past I had tried to get better access to that area to lube but I’m sure fell short. I’ll look into removing those side covers as well and give that area attention. And yes, 2001 with cable, looks same as your picture. Thanks again! 😊

Well I found a few minutes earlier tonight and got it up off the wheels. Cranked it up, and the wheels didn’t move. Operating the treadle and they worked fine. The reverse, would slightly hang a little, and the wheels would continue to move after letting off—but very slowly. A little stab on the...

Oh yes, I’ve met Terry as well, and he is a great fellow. (As well as other staff😊) I didn’t mean to imply an “upsell”, but after hearing the wife describe this tractor’s hard life since 2001, and seeing it myself, I honestly think they would have to recommend a new unit. (Of course I say that...

Yes, I’ve considered taking it over…about 2 hours from me. (I visited them a couple years ago and enjoyed the tour and the folks.) I’m afraid if they have a look, it’s likely I’ll hear “poor thing has been worked to death and better off with a new one”…😯

Yes sir, helped greatly! Great detail. Even my feeble mind can understand it now.😆 Very much appreciate the effort.

Can you elaborate a little bit for me, about adjusting that “hydro back”? Thanks. 😊

Thanks Peter…I’m hoping to get back to it in a few days (too many pressing matters ahead arrrggggg) I’m about 2 hours or little less to Tazewell—I’ve thought about loading it up and taking to them for a thorough inspection and see if there’s “hope for the patient”… Also, the wife told me that...

I’ve been meaning to get one of those for a long time—now it’s a must-have. 😊

Much obliged to you! 😊

Let’s see…I believe it’s whined just a little since I’ve been with it but considered it normal. The wife thought so too as she had run it years before me. Nothing stands out…just seems that one day within last couple weeks it was noticeably louder running up and down our inclined driveway...

Wow! Good information and pics. Thanks much for that. 😊

Latest episode: seems to be losing some power when on inclines (does great going downhill! 😜) and I have a lot more “whine” I think coming from the front one or both motors. And backing up on a steeper incline it almost won’t do now…am I looking at bad wheel motor issues?

Forgive me if I’ve asked before and can’t see it in a search (my brain is not up-to-par with aging) My 425, hydraulic oil tank dipstick under the seat, is short (maybe 3-4”) and no markings. Anyone tell me what the correct level would be? Thanks!

Where is this part located??

Hmmmm…I had to have a bypass hose made last year so I could tow it out of the woods, after Terry directed me. (He told me where my valve was but 1. it was hard to get to, and 2. I couldn’t get it to turn. It was a vertical rod about approx 3/8” and had a through hole in it that a small shaft...

Sort of related but the hydrolock thing caught my attention…couple weeks ago when the outer bands of Helene dumped some serious water on us, I had our Power Trac (Kohler 25hp gas) sitting out but had a tarp over the engine and the hood down to keep it secure. When I was finally able to get to...

Got back in town and fired it up…ran great, so I put it to work doing some grading for about an hour…no problems at all. Oddly, when I cut the key off and it dies down, right near the end it kinda acted a little rough for a second or two…this time I didn’t throttle down and let it idle at low...

PowerTrac company told me the spec number was 68500…(the engine tag is worn off so mostly illegible) I did use a punch after the nailset divots, and I believe those two processes might have sealed it up. I had to run out of town for a few days so I was only able to just fire it up for a few...

I had my PowerTrac PT425 finally running again for a period, and then it broke again. Ended up finding cylinder head #2 exhaust valve seat had come loose and boogered up a couple of areas around the seat location. I started trying to find a replacement head online and having trouble (more on...

Took a couple days to get it done (carburetors are the death of me lol) but after day and night soaking and in ultrasonic cleaner, so far it seems to be running well now. And in a side note—what do you do when the float bowl gasket/rubber shrinks a little? I managed to use some small traces of...

Well…back again. After all of that work, I’m still having a bit of a problem. It starts up fine and seems to have a very slight “miss” but after warming up and putting it under a load, it gets worse—slight stumble, intermittent miss, intermittent slight backfire…got the carb pulled yet again and...

I’d like to find one of those (even leaking—maybe I can plastic weld a repair) to replace the antique one that someone put on mine before we got it…

I’ve been going through that stuff by the gallons lately…I’ve found it best so far. And a new HF ultrasonic cleaner helps too.

I’m late to the party! Glad to see the pics too, and the explanations…helps me understand a little more about mine.

I really hate being “cheap”…honestly. But it’s gotten worse as I’ve aged. I try my best to wring out every possible inch of life in anything we have (frustrating many times and lots of muttered 4-letter words LOL) and the wife just says “throw it away and we’ll get a new one…” 🤪 I can’t let go...

On a side note—I had seen a video on how to get more life out of sidewall cracks (mind you this is NOT for highway use) so I gave it a try. Transmission fluid. Brushed liberally on the sidewalls. Seems like it helped some, but…I think it only helps for one or two applications…just my opinion on...

All good points…yes that mess inside a tire—we had a lawn tractor that had a decent leak, so I experimented with the foam trick, since I’d had some success with that on a dual-tired wheelbarrow. This time, it wasn’t so pretty. So still dealing with a half-flat many times, I ordered some new...

Opinions please. Previous owner put turf tread tires on our 425 (23 x 10.50-12)…hardly any tread wear but cracking in sidewalls, and a couple have slow leaks. Last time I bought a new tube for a lawn tractor (good brand I thought) it came apart real easily…new tires are quite expensive… Thoughts? 😊

On my Kohler CH25s, I have the analog SAM ignition… If a battery connection is loose (as in just put the cable end onto the post and pushed down slightly) can it cause an intermittent miss/stumble etc.? After much work on the motor recently I had just put the battery cables on, but forgot to...

Once again, a hearty thank you to you fellers for hanging with me, and guiding my efforts. I might be making some headway in getting all our equipment back to running again! (Oh yea—I’m still trying to get the yard spot prepped for artificial turf, lay the turf, then build the Adventureland...

This afternoon between a CH25 PDF service manual, a test light and some short cables, I got the new switch to work. All functions now good. I had spliced in some longer wires to make it easier to work with—tonight I’m going to pull most of them and redo, so I can mount the switch in the console...

Good point Peter. Thanks for that. Evidently that was the issue with the old switch…in trying to determine which pins correlated with switch positions I kept getting different results. Then found the “static” inside the switch. So now I have a replacement “universal” mower switch (same 5 tabs...

Actually I think the switch is done for as well—a meter on it last night showed all kinds of “static” or shorting, and wiggling the key really acted up…

For sure! What a mess…I keep telling the wife, “I’m thinking it’s time for one of those new mid-size diesel tractors!” LOL

Well…how about this—it’s fixed! Today I went back and double checked everything, and then pulled the carb and went through it again. Back together and fired it up. Voila! Runs like a champ! So… I put the bucket back on and head down the hill in the front yard to move dirt from a huge pile…worked...

Also, I will test again for spark. Another thing comes to mind…just before I pulled the head, rods and rockers, I hand cranked it trying to get my finger/thumb over the spark port to check for compression…I wasn’t able to get my finger contorted enough to get a good “feel” but it didn’t seem...

Well, another day and no cure. Received the new coil and went to install. Right away it appeared slightly different from the original (yes it is a cheap aftermarket) but mainly the frame legs appeared a little too long to clear the flywheel magnet. Thinking “it’s a cheapie anyway so if I ruin...

Yes, I put in another new plug—no difference in running but didn’t hook the tester back up again…

Last night, I did pull the kill wire off the affected side coil—no change. But now I believe I need to verify that if there are diodes in this kill wire circuit I need to test them…see a couple more videos on that….

The arcing was around the boot of the nearly new spark tester. Inspection of it didn’t show any cracks that my eyes could see… Yes a deeper inspection is warranted—but between snow squalls and high winds today I just don’t have the energy…(so far)😜 I will retest after I start looking deeper…

I found a set of two cheap coils on eBay and ordered a few days ago…we shall see…

This morning while studying videos, I found one particularly interesting…(this was on a Briggs twin) Using a spark tester like mine, he had a good spark showing in it, but noted still a problem with missing. Ended up finding a diode bad in the kill wire to that cylinder. Maybe a possibility here?

I am going in circles here…earlier, thinking the coil had gone bad, (I had pulled the plug wire off that side and no change) I decided to look again. First, I pulled the white wire off the coil and went to crank on it. The motor sounded very odd while cranking (can’t think of a way to describe...

Forgot to mention, earlier I had done a compression test—between 150 and 160 on both cylinders…

On a side note…coming off the big multi-pin connector on starter side are these three open connectors. I don’t believe they’ve ever been hooked up best I can tell. One of these wouldn’t be connected to the coil unit in some way, could it? rendering the coil inoperative? Maybe they are for...

Yes they were new plugs. Today I just found pulling off plug wire on the left side made no change to motor—but right side and it nearly died. So I’m thinking it’s bad coil or related. When I first moved in with my wife almost 4 years ago she had this and it was running on one side then, I found...

Yes it was/is. But I’ve since found today by pulling off plug wire from that same side, no change in motor. However, left side and engine nearly dies.

And…I had checked the plugs last night after about a minute of run time. The right side plug was very hot to the touch, but the left side was much cooler. Both plugs looked fine with no residue/wetness/color issues…

Oh, and I needed to move my towable backhoe urgently so I hooked up and pulled it…up a little hill, increased the throttle, and it ran great under that load…

Ok guys…the saga continues (but doesn’t seem to be AS BAD😊)… Motor starts great and fast, the “jumping” (picture a motor loose mounting type of movement) is better after several startups. Low idle engine almost sounds normal with just a hint of some odd sound from exhaust intermittently. Sped up...

New oil and filter, and forgot to mention that before the initial fire up the day before, I had went through the nearly new aftermarket carb with a good cleaning. (Don’t see any obvious issues, but I thought the float moved a little too far up into the body so I tried to adjust it a little…I...

Well…no joy. I started it again a little bit later after adding more fresh gas. It started so quick—almost the moment I turned the key! But I shut it off quickly, because I meant to check the oil. (I had just changed the oil with the good stuff before I tore it down. But wanted to check anyway.)...

For some reason now I can’t seem to attach a video..

UPDATE: March 27, 2024 FINALLY! Back together today and nervously gave it a crank. New tank of gas, some Choke, cranked about 5 seconds and Voila! Fired right up. It seems to be “jumping” a little at this low speed. Ran it about a minute and shut it down. During that run period I thought I...

Odd, but I’ve replaced carbs on a couple of lawn mowers, small tractor, and chainsaw with cheapies and so far so good. But yes, I believe it would be better with OEM parts. But EXPENSIVE. When I can, I’ll get the good stuff. For example, I’m having to do a lot of top end work on a finicky Kohler...

I’m gonna give it a shot 😁

Ahhhh…I’m with you now…I’m a bit slow—more everyday! LOL

Looking at more documentation, I can’t see where the “jug” separates from the block…am I missing it?

When I first saw it, I had been considering…(keep in mind I have no real “skill” but have always relied on trial-and-effort, printed materials, and plain old ‘I think it works like this—what if I try this?’”😆) …that since that depression opened up that space just a little more that it would be...

Oops—my fault! I didn’t think it through enough, and when you mentioned “jug” I remember that from a small Honda cycle motor I was working on a couple years ago… So that “jug” separates from the block as well, enabling it to be replaced? I think I need to study a little more—I thought I had it...

After more consideration I’m going to leave it alone—go back to the original motor. Got a new carb ordered for it and that should get it back up to snuff. Thanks for the help and interest. 😊

I mistakenly ID’d my motor as a Predator—after a better look I find it’s a “Starter USA Professional” model. (Must have been before Predators) …and another label says it’s a “gosoline” engine! 😜 It’s shaft mics out at .62 mm or 5/8”. The original MTD final shaft end mics at .87 or 7/8”. 😯

LOL I probably didn’t detail it correctly—the impression is in the block part. I think the heads are ok after a little prep work, and all new parts to boot…but… Now…I’ve come to the point of it being apart so long I kinda dread starting back on it. (Seems to have gotten worse with age😯) I have...

Hmmmm…I held a tape measure under the shaft and tried to line up with both sides of the shaft to come up with the 5/8”…I’ll put a micrometer on it shortly and see what I get for sure…

I hear you! 😊 It sure alarms me too, but I haven’t gotten back to it this evening (had to make long distance run with wife for groceries and meds, and it’s been pouring the rain…arrrrggggg) Also, it appeared to me that the surface area of the impression is smooth—I would have thought it would...

MTD 5hp chipper shredder that I want to replace the motor with a new (but about 6 years old in box) Harbor Freight 6.5 hp motor. Best I can measure, I get 5/8” diameter shaft on the HF, but the original motor has a 7/8” diameter at the end of the tapered shaft. I’m seeing lots of adapters out...

It’s hard to see, but I wouldn’t call it a dent (a depression from the top surface down towards the bottom)—it’s more like the side of the bore is missing some surface material…make sense? Sorry, I should have lowered the piston down to examine closer…I’ll do that shortly and repost…

Hmmmmm…sure is! 🤔

In trying to get started with reassembly, I discovered an odd thing—a slight “depression” on cylinder 1. It’s at the top of the bore, on the exhaust side…

Update: sorry, not really an update…yet. I’ve been covered up with other stuff and “honey do” items…and the nasty weather hasn’t given me many opportunities. But I do have all the parts now to get this thing back together and see what happens. Will update then. 😊

Yep…I believe I’ve read a few comments from that mention as long as it’s a high quality oil with the proper specs, then it should be fine…at this point, and seeing the carnage up close and personal, I’m running a bit “sceert” for now, so I’ll stay with the Kohler stuff and pay more attention to...

Oh and that Kohler oil? At Tractor Supply I paid 14.99 per quart! Ouch!

Plus, I’m gonna start using the recommended Kohler 10w-30 oil. I’m guessing the zinc and any other additives in it make the difference in keeping those touchy lifters from sticking solid. I decided to try and “rejuvenate” mine, since I found them to be so simple…but…I may have to rethink...

Excellent!! 😊

For sure! One thing I’ve realized—these motors are sure picky and appear to be subject to breakdowns more-so if best maintenance isn’t done. I think that the previous owner and then me, made things worse with wrong oils, and not enough frequent oil changes. (Heck, I had a Murray push mower for...

Spark plugs were intact. 😊

I believe it’s steel. I can’t feel any flats so it appears to be round but the ends I can’t tell if original or maybe lopped off… No, this was the opposite cylinder (1) supposedly the “gooder” one 😉 First off I thought it could be a carb butterfly rod (I had one on my lawn tractor 17hp Kohler a...

Whoa!! I wouldn’t have thought to look at the compression tester setup. I think that piece is too big to be part of it, but…I’m going to check it out for sure… Thinking more about it…I’m trying to imagine how it got there. Maybe it wasn’t there until AFTER the motor started this episode? But…it...

Received the gasket sets this morning…2 more lifters to rejuvenate and then let’s get it back together and see what happens.

More…in my hand is a small metal rod that was laying on top of the piston, along with a couple of small “dark colored wads of thin fibrous material”…looks like the valves show some marks where it was bouncing around in there…I don’t have a clue…

The plot thickens LOL…pics yesterday from cylinder 1…

Ahhh…good catch. I wouldn’t say it was an “easy tap-in” as I delivered short, sharp blows to a socket that fit exactly around the seat. But, I will try that peening method too. 😊

Also, that exhaust valve seat that was a little cocked, I tapped in back in ok…

Rough looking, huh?

Waiting on parts to arrive…in the meantime, here are more pics of the cylinder head and stuff…🥴

Talked to Keith at Power Trac earlier—he got me the needed info. 😊

I sent an email to Kohler…probably no help…LOL…I’ll see if I can find a serial number somewhere then give them a call. Thanks again!

My Kohler CH25s motor had a tag that listed the Spec number, but most of the label has worn away now… How else can I find out what my Spec number is?

More from the valve area:

Sunday night…decided to disassemble a hydraulic lifter. I chose the intake side on this problem cylinder, and I had previously taken it out and bled it before putting back in. Tonight after pulling it, I found it to be stuck again—took an extreme amount of force to get it to bleed again… Here...

2manyrocks and…her nice and polished stainless steel French door fridge ice maker went on the fritz awhile back. Ended up a couple of problems compounded the problem—after a couple weeks of hit-and-miss episodes of working on it, she was ready to just go buy a new fridge! What? I said…no way— it...

(To be fair and honest, this was from Sunday evening depart to Friday evening return, 2 trains, 2 busses each way, but we spent our FL time visiting the new 18 month-old granddaughter and daughter, and even squeezed in building a heavy/duty swing/play set for them.😊❤️)

We’re FINALLY (hopefully) about to return home this evening after this Florida Amtrak train/bus round trip fiasco, and I’m now “recharged” and ready to tackle this motor with a renewed vigor! 😆🤪 (One more hour on this bus transfer, then board our last train for another 6 hours—let’s hope all...

IF after replacing lifters, gaskets, etc… Would trying to run some “cleaning” options to lessen the varnish, gumming, sludge, etc., cause some possible ring leaking??

Wow! Yes, all very true and good, deeper thought. Replacing them and I believe “priming” them is in order as well.

Yes I’m going to replace them as well.😊

LOL my wife laughs at me—I can’t let it go, like so many other things I’ve fixed…it might take a little time to dig into as much info/how-tos/videos as I can, but it always feels good to finally fix things. (Along with plenty of frustration and aggravation/4 letter words😆) Wife says “just buy a...

I’m still holding out hope I’m “getting off easy/cheap”…LOL Yes, that’s what I meant by “relapping”. The guides—my thinking is the valve was sticking because of the buildup of crud, varnish, etc. I mean, it made a believer out of me to see how bad things can look with bad or wrong oils, lack of...

Geez…I’m blown away at how much crud and baked-on deposits I’m finding…later last night I was able to remove the exhaust valve from head and best I can tell it looked ok, just pretty cruddy. I THINK after cleaning it and the guide it looks like it’s settling better, but I’m not totally sure… So...

Here are more…

Here’s the first look…

Sure ‘nuff! Yesterday found exhaust valve not fully sealing and a broken head gasket…

I believe you and some others are right—further examination yesterday I found exhaust valve not fully closing, and the head gasket has break just about the area where the exhaust bolts to the head.

Yes sir…hopefully tomorrow I’ll get a look.

I don’t think so, because I see them all moving when I bump it over (both valve covers are off.) And I can push all valves down with my thumbs and they seem to operate freely with good spring pressure. But, I could be wrong…🥴

Finally…got a break in weather and other tasks to spend a few minutes back here… Somehow I now have compression on cylinder 1, but still nothing on the original problem cylinder 2. I injected air into this cylinder and had some leakage through the exhaust pipe. Oddly, while cranking the motor to...

Thanks very much for that! 😊

Thanks for this straight-ahead, more simplistic approach. That’ll be my very next move. (IF this danged cold and wind would let up! 🥴😜)

You know, I’m slowly starting to change my outlook on some things—especially the “I’ll eventually figure this out…” meanwhile, other things just keep popping up and my age is slowing me down. IF…it didn’t appear to be so much hassle getting all the hydraulics away from the motor, I’d probably...

If…the engine isn’t running and I’m just bumping it over, would the electronic system have anything to do with stopping the physical action of the piston pushing up air out of the spark plug port? I would think at that point it’s just a mechanical action/process and if rings were good it would...

Thanks for that link… I’m just baffled by the sudden loss of compression on both sides. My warped sense of “thinking” can’t get unwrapped on that. Seems like it should be so simple to find but yet I’m fumbling my way around. (I think my biggest problem is I have too many problem projects that...

The latest has been: no compression at all—zero—on both cylinders, about three days ago.I haven’t had much time to go into it very much since then with so many other fixes that have popped up🤪. I’m curious to try Peter’s suggestion with the oil in the cylinder and see if any different result...

Good thinking Peter…I had wondered before I found the bent push rod, and just after I found gas in the oil, about compression. I had spark on both sides. So when I did the compression test about that time, I thought maybe the mixture had stripped all the years of “use and bad oils” away from the...

Yes, both pistons are moving.

Yes sir, both sides checked, and again just a little bit ago. All look fine. I’m gonna rig up a remote start button so I can position myself to observe better going forward. This afternoon though, I am concerned about the right side bank (looking from rear of the tractor)…the springs look to be...

I went ahead and took off the bypass hose, just in case.

No problem at all with the “basic” questions. Many times I’ve found, I can overlook the simplest of things. 🤪 Let’s see: All four push rods look fine and are working. Looking into the cylinder I can see the piston moving when starter is bumped…

I still have the bypass hose in place—surely that doesn’t have any effect?

In my last post, it was about getting in “tow mode” and about the engine quitting on bad gas, etc. So I was able to get it moved with the Bypass Hose installed. Got it home and ordered a new push rod for the bent one. Changed the oil and filter. Took the lifter out and bled it (it was solid as...

That’s an interesting question …no warning signs that I could recognize. After the son-in-law put the watered gas in and tried to run it, he drained it all back out, and put in fresh gas. By the time I got there, he had it running again, but just barely. He said it would just start popping and...

I love it. It’s a bit over my head but I’m learning more about it as I find books/manuals. All of the running gear was rebuilt and it’s really in great shape. My neighbor/friend works for a local mom-and-pop equipment place and does most of their rebuilds on dozers and such. He did the finishing...

Thanks much for that great info. I’ll file it with my other notes, and hopefully I won’t have to use it soon…😊

Yes, the Crawler has been fun so far, with a steep learning curve on handling the blade. (I’m slowly getting better at it but still a ways to go) And learning its systems—one, I’m in a different world with stuff so heavy one needs machinery to lift/maneuver… Yep, I’m in the “hills…mountains” of...