Amount of clearing for effective fire break

   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #11  
Here in fire country it's totally clear of anything flammable for 5' (i.e gravel or hardscape), tree branches at least 10' away from structures, and for the first 30', no flammable plants, dead plants, accumulations of needles, etc. For 30-100' you want a reduced fuel area, which means low grass and wide space between trees and shrubs.

If the land slopes down from your buildings you need more than 100' as fire burns especially well up hill.

We're also required to have hydrants and 3000-15,000 gallons of water available for fire trucks (depending on the size of the buildings).
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #12  
I think that wind driven flames are very hard to defend against, and almost impossible for a homeowner to fight.

I underestimated grass fires until I saw one burn near me. I thought that I could fight a grassfire until I saw one. I then realized that you prepare for wildfire, but you don't fight a wildfire. You have to be ready for fire at all times. Don't get me wrong, I have water storage and a fire pump, but that is for fighting a house fire, not wildfires. I have had embers drop on us from fires that were miles away (at least fifteen miles away from one fire). Once we had embers falling out of a blue sky. Scary and creepy as all get out. For the last four years, we have had fires burn to the property line, or close to it, every year. (Arson, and wildfire) Sometimes, I have had time to fire up the fire pump to wet down the perimeter, sometimes not. Once we had to evacuate more than twenty four hours before the fire arrived. (So Barricade gel would have been useless.)

So, what follows are a few thoughts for someone who has lived with, and been close to wildfires for more than twenty years. It is free advice, and definitely worth what you are paying for it.

First, put your container on a big gravel pad, and keep the area grass and weed free. Then move fuels, solvents, etc. to a separate fireproof shed. Then, if you can, put a roof over the container to shed embers.

Second, a few things that you can do is thin brush, have cattle / burros/ goats graze the grass down to reduce the fire intensity, and limb up trees to prevent fire from spreading into trees. Chip or burn the trimmings. Each step helps reduce the intensity of the fire and increases the chances that your cabin survives.

When you do build your cabin, make choices to build a fire resistant cabin. Little details matter like having a fire proof roof, not having a roof that has places for leaves and embers to catch, no gutters, or screens on the gutters to keep embers out, and fine (less than 1/8" opening, preferably 1/16") screening on any vents in crawl spaces or attics or soffits. Obviously, choosing fire resistant choices in the cabin construction makes a huge difference. If you can, consider stucco walls, or cement siding for your cabin. Or consider an earth home. Use metal framed double or triple paned windows, and consider metal hurricane shutters that double as fire (and theft) prevention shutters. Have a coarse gravel perimeter around the cabin, and keep it free of weeds and plants. Have a stone or gravel patio, not a wood deck. Don't run a wood fence up to your cabin. I would consider having a driveway loop around the cabin area to have a non-flammable area near the cabin. It is all about depriving the fire of fuel near your cabin to reduce the fire intensity. Somethings are inexpensive, and some aren't.

We generally have an organic ranch, but we do use glyphosate to create bare earth immediately around the house, 30-100'. Purely done to reduce fire hazard. No wood bark or organic mulches in that area, though some flowers away from the house itself.

Some tips at http://prepareforwildfire.org There are some nice forest service videos on YouTube on homes that did or didn't survive wildfires and what helped or hurt.

Some random thoughts: Bear in mind that any pipe that is above ground might be exposed to fire. Plastic pipes will melt/burn, and may drain your water system. That includes water tanks. Having rooftop sprinklers is great, if you have power, and will have power during a fire, but mostly I think that they make up for not having a roof that sheds embers. I would read the label on Barricade gel before you buy it. It needs to be applied just before the fire arrives, as it is only good for a few hours. I know of folks who have fire sprinklers to wet down the walls on their homes, but again, that depends on knowing when to turn them on, and having enough power and water to spray water for the duration. Don't leave invitations for fire around, like stacking wood against the house, or leaving furniture or cushions out where they can catch embers. Think about metal outside furniture, rather than plastic or wood. Keep your fuel in a fire resistant cabinet away from the house, ditto propane, like a long way. A 500 gallon propane tank makes for a big bang. If you have the space, and land for it, I would consider a pond. It won't burn, and might provide fire fighting water storage.

I hope that this helps.

No one thing will be enough, but each layer helps, and at the end of the day, you are as strong as the weakest link.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #13  
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Good luck!

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #14  
Depends on the wind.

Years ago we had a neighbor that got the forestry dept to cut a fire break around their property. Then the idiots gave them a permit on a day we had 25 mph wind. Fire jumped right over the break and headed for my house. Thank goodness the fire department and forestry service got here and put it out before it got to my house.

They were not fined because they HAD the permit. I have done some permitted burns and you can't get the actual permit until just before you light. Not sure WHAT the forestry service was thinking that day.

What idiot would burn in that kind of wind?
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #15  
I live here in Central Texas, and it was extremely dry this year. Multiple fires were started in our County probably by cars throwing cigarettes out the window. These fires occurred in mostly a mix of high brush(6-10 feet high) and grasslands. I think this is close to what you have in West Texas. What i noticed as a volunteer firefighter, that high wind velocity controls everything, and with high winds the fire was spreading much faster than a brisk walking pace. Very hot and hard to contain once it got started. With low winds it spread slowly, and was just smoldering along.

Remove and rake all brush away at least for 125 feet, then mow it all down to 4" high and try to keep it that way all summer. If it does start a fire near you, it will only have 4" of fuel to burn and this will mostly smolder and not be any threat. You might consider placing the metal shed or container on a slightly elevated and level gravel pad.

Also, if you can get a water line in to your site, recommend you install at least two hydrants for quick water access, and also install an underground box for future water connections to your cabin. The water is of course necessary for many things....but also fire control.
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #16  
What idiot would burn in that kind of wind?

The real catch was they had to call the Forestry department the morning of the burn to GET the permit. Not only were the property owners negligent but the person issuing permits was asleep at the wheel.

I haven't called for one in a while but last time I was on the phone answering questions for 15 minutes and passed through two supervisors to get the permit. They have really tightened up the requirements.
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #17  
If you have ever seen a true wind driven wildfire ..... You would know that the private homeowner doesn't stand a snowballs chance in H*LL. Your efforts will not stop it - under the very best of conditions it's doubtful if you can even slightly mitigate this fire. Stay and fight it - most likely, you will burn up in it.

If you need examples - look at the wildfires in California. Do you honestly think you stand a chance against something like that ......... Get real!!!
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #18  
Every fall - Northern & central CA - central & Ea OR - central & EA WA - same in ID. It's not uncommon to have 25 or more wildfire going thru this area. All at the same time. Been here 39 years - never even ONCE - NOT ONCE - have I ever heard the call - "Homeowners, man your garden hoses".

The CALL is - "Homeowners - gather your goods and get the H*LL out of Dodge".

You CAN fight a house fire - You simply do not stand a chance against a wildfire.

AND - these are NOT my recommendations - - they ARE the recommendations of any/all agencies involved in fire suppression.
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #19  
Oosik: Most everyone will agree that Northern and Central California and Oregon are in wildfire country, where excessively high winds and dense tree stands create very dangerous fire conditions.

But the OP lives in West Texas and in that location, finding natural trees is a rarity. It's mostly thick brush and mesquite country and supplemented with prairie grass lands. Fire season is June to October and most fires range between to 500 to 1200 acres. With the road system on a 1 mile grid, you can get fire crews in very quickly for containment. The OP just really needs to keep the fuel level down by clearing and mowing around his storage container.
 
   / Amount of clearing for effective fire break #20  
Thanks, rademamj1. I have no idea of the conditions in West Texas. I can only relate to the conditions in the areas I mentioned. The amazing part of the past wild fire - watching the helicopters dip buckets of water out of my lake. They go down and the pilot is on my eye level off my front porch. View attachment 683291
 

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