Need to remove tapered tie rod end on Kubota M7040

[sixdogs]

I need to remove the tie rod end on a new-to-me M7040 Kubota so I can replace the "knuckle" joint on the tie rod shaft. I do have a pickle fork that would remove the tapered end but the fork is too small. Kubota shows some exotic spreader thing in the service manual but don't have one of those. So how to remove the tapered tie rod end?

I could loosen the slotted nut and whack the threaded end with a hammer. I could use an impact hammer and hit the sides of the tie rod end in hopes of loosening it. Maybe use a puller to pop it out? If it helps, the torque of the rod end slotted nut is 60 ft lbs.

Any help on this? I don't have enough experience and don't want to screw it up.

 

[fried1765]

I need to remove the tie rod end on a new-to-me M7040 Kubota so I can replace the "knuckle" joint on the tie rod shaft. I do have a pickle fork that would remove the tapered end but the fork is too small. Kubota shows some exotic spreader thing in the service manual but don't have one of those. So how to remove the tapered tie rod end?

I could loosen the slotted nut and whack the threaded end with a hammer. I could use an impact hammer and hit the sides of the tie rod end in hopes of loosening it. Maybe use a puller to pop it out? If it helps, the torque of the rod end slotted nut is 60 ft lbs.

Any help on this? I don't have enough experience and don't want to screw it up.

Can you buy a larger "pickle fork" that will do the job?
Harbor Freight?
I would definitely not wack the threaded end!

 

[metalbender]

Pickle fork usually tears the boot. Two hammers, big one held against the knuckle, smaller one to apply the shock force. Do not strike the threaded end.

 

[sixdogs]

Pickle fork usually tears the boot. Two hammers, big one held against the knuckle, smaller one to apply the shock force. Do not strike the threaded end.

Explain that better. I don't understand where the hammers go and where I hit it. Do you mean hold the big hammer against the underside/edge of the bottom of the tie rod and then whack with other hammer?

FYI--The "knuckle" I mention is a ball-and-socket thing in the middle of the tie rod shaft that absorbs tie rod and steering shock.

 

[sixdogs]

Can you buy a larger "pickle fork" that will do the job?
Harbor Freight?
I would definitely not wack the threaded end!

I could --but fear tearing the boot and then having to wait for the part to come in.

 

[m7040]

Without using special tools you need a large hammer to hold against the side of the joint in which the ball joint tapered end sits and the strike the other side of the joint with medium size hammer. Be prepared to give it some hard raps. This will expand the joint due to heat gerenarated by the hammer blows and free the ball joint

 

[WranglerX]

In graphic below hold backup hammer at red arrow and tap with other hammer at green arrow... OR just reverse procedure if swinging room is a problem...



Dale

 

[TractorGuy]

Screw the nut on part way to protect the threads and hit on the end of the part with the hole in it. This will dislodge the taper. DO NOT HIT THE THREADED PART!

I have removed thousands in my years and never used a backup hammer. Just turn the wheel to where you can get the best swing and whack it with a 5 lb sledge.

 

[metalbender]

The hammer force is perpendicular to the stud, as shown. This is 90 degrees from the pic with the arrow.

 

[sixdogs]

Got it. You guys are great with all the help on this. Part should come in on Friday--but who knows--and I will bring tractor in shop and have at it. I'll report back and post some pics. I understand how and why and what to do. Thanks again.